Sounds like a true ham shack Bob. Congratulations.
Another thing to consider is the actual need for a tube tester.
How often do you use it and how often are you likely to use it in
the next 10 years?
You might find, like me, that the better option is to sell it or
pass it on to somebody that will use it.
73, Alek VK6APK.
On 27/10/2023 10:06 pm, Bob wrote:
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Jim, My shack/shop inside is getting cramped! I
know it doesn't sound like it would save much space but it will.
Thanks, Bob? W4JFA
On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at
9:55?AM Jim VE7RF < jim.thom@...>
wrote:
Store
it inside the home.? ?If you store it outside, it will end up
with mildew, condensation etc, on everything.? ?IF it has to
be stored outdoors,? I would put it in a sealed container,
packed with a ton of silica gel (desiccant).? Then change out
the silica gel once per year.
|
Jim, My shack/shop inside is getting cramped! I know it doesn't sound like it would save much space but it will. Thanks, Bob? W4JFA
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On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 9:55?AM Jim VE7RF < jim.thom@...> wrote: Store it inside the home.? ?If you store it outside, it will end up with mildew, condensation etc, on everything.? ?IF it has to be stored outdoors,? I would put it in a sealed container, packed with a ton of silica gel (desiccant).? Then change out the silica gel once per year.
|
Store it inside the home.? ?If you store it outside, it will end up with mildew, condensation etc, on everything.? ?IF it has to be stored outdoors,? I would put it in a sealed container, packed with a ton of silica gel (desiccant).? Then change out the silica gel once per year.
|
I got some answers emailed direct saying leave it inside. I've had electronic equipment in a garage for years with no issues but I thought I'd ask about an old tube tester. It'll stay inside. 73, Bob? W4JFA
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Hi all, I thought this would be the best group to get an opinion from. I have an old tube tester in it's wooden cabinet. I would like to store it in the garage/shed.
What do you all think about winter temperatures that can get to the middle 20 degrees fahrenheit?in the winter, and 95 degrees fahrenheit?in the summer??
It will be wrapped in plastic or in a plastic bag and then inside a cabinet drawer.
Thanks guys.
Bob? W4JFA
|
Coax to connect between exciter and SB-200
Hi all
Today I found a pre-made 6-foot RG-58 cable at <> with UHF connectors.? USD$13.49 or thereabouts, soec-ed?at 66% velocity factor. ?
It's an easy and relatively cheap way to try one of these cables...not all of us have spare UHF male connectors for RG-58, and some fresh RG-58 hanging out. ?
Yes, they have 12-footers that can be cut into two?six-footers and a different connector added.? USD$16.99.
73 Jim N6OTQ
|
No electronic equipment will do very well in an uncontrolled environment. ?Also, I certainly would not wrap it in plastic, which will trap moisture.? Cloth like a bedsheet would be a much better choice because it can breathe.? I used to work in a boat yard up way up North.? We would store boats for the winter under canvas tarps.? One year some idiot decided use plastic tarps, which was a total disaster. Wood boats developed severe cases of wood rot and the fiberglass boats had tons of mold on them. ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2023 3:39 PM To: Ham Amplifiers Ham Amplifiers Subject: [ham-amplifiers] Tube testers ? Hi all, I thought this would be the best group to get an opinion from. I have an old tube tester in it's wooden cabinet. I would like to store it in the garage/shed. What do you all think about winter temperatures that can get to the middle 20 degrees fahrenheit?in the winter, and 95 degrees fahrenheit?in the summer?? It will be wrapped in plastic or in a plastic bag and then inside a cabinet drawer.
|
Bob,
Store it indoors, in a climate-controlled place.? If you put it in the shed, the climate swings will affect the components, and you'll forget that you put it out there.
The shed is for storing things that can't get ruined by environmental changes.
73 Jim N6OTQ
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Show quoted text
Hi all, I thought this would be the best group to get an opinion from. I have an old tube tester in it's wooden cabinet. I would like to store it in the garage/shed.
What do you all think about winter temperatures that can get to the middle 20 degrees fahrenheit?in the winter, and 95 degrees fahrenheit?in the summer??
It will be wrapped in plastic or in a plastic bag and then inside a cabinet drawer.
Thanks guys.
Bob? W4JFA
|
Hi all, I thought this would be the best group to get an opinion from. I have an old tube tester in it's wooden cabinet. I would like to store it in the garage/shed.
What do you all think about winter temperatures that can get to the middle 20 degrees fahrenheit?in the winter, and 95 degrees fahrenheit?in the summer??
It will be wrapped in plastic or in a plastic bag and then inside a cabinet drawer.
Thanks guys.
Bob? W4JFA
|
I am aware of this voltage dissipation relationship, but Onder said the software is written for the 50-odd volts the amp uses. Perhaps he needs to develop his software so you can vary the drain volts to suit the power output level. You’re right - it is veeery inefficient at low output levels !
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On 22 Oct 2023, at 2:30 pm, Adrian Fewster <vk4tux@...> wrote:
?
The thing with LDMOS is to run the voltage a bit lower at higher
current. This is way more thermally efficient.
Most of the first 50% rated current draw is wasted on heat, and
the rest then adds to RF % as you raise current further?
with lower voltage for same power as higher voltage with less
current (hotter).
On a single LDMOS SPE it can be run in low, up to 800w, much
cooler than the same in Mid or Max power profile.
Also in Low the LDMOS will survive antenna/coax? failures swr
events etc,? much better, than in Mid/Max.
Keep max temperature 50 deg C for a nice long device life. The
SPE is an auto antenna switch and also via node-red?
can control the FTDX101MP drive. via node link out/link in ;
function node ;
"
This function node allows a user of this flow to define the drive
power for an exciter based on band and power level (low, middle
and high) much like the way the SPE controls the power level of
a FlexRadio via the CAT port.
The drive levels in the table below are fictional and provided to
test the flow itself. The values must be updated to reflect the
correct drive level for your exciter and amplifier combination.
The "link out" node that follows this node in the flow must be
coupled to a "link in" node in your radio's flow.
*/
var mode = msg.payload.col3
var band = msg.payload.col7;
var pwr_level = msg.payload.col10;
var drive_pwr=0;
var slmh_index;
var slmh_string="SLMH";
/*
The drive power table is unit-agnostic and must be configured for
the units expected by your exciter (e.g., watts, percentage,
fractional value, etc.)
Sample drive power table is configured for:
??? Standby drive power: 100
??? Drive power for???? Low power setting: 1 (all bands)
??? Drive power for? Middle power setting: 2 (all bands)
??? Drive power for Maximum power setting: 3 (all bands)
*/
"
var drive_pwr_table = [
//??? Standby?? Low??? Middle? High
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //160M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //80M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //60M (US 5W PEP ERP Max)
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //40M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //30M (US 200W PEP Max)
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //20M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //17M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 6? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //15M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //12M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? //10M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 14?? ,?? 12],? // 6M
??? [? 5?? ,?? 5? ,?? 12?? ,?? 12],? // 4M
];
/*Note regarding parseInt:
The value to parse. If this argument is not a string, then it is
converted to one using the ToString abstract operation.
*/
band_index = parseInt(band,10);
switch (mode) {
??? case "S":
??????? slmh_index = slmh_string.indexOf("S");
??????? break;
??? case "O":
??????? slmh_index = slmh_string.indexOf(pwr_level);
??????? break;
??? default:
??????? slmh_index = -1;? //infaclid mode returned, flag for zero
power
??????? break;
}
if (slmh_index >= 0) {
??? drive_pwr = drive_pwr_table[band_index][slmh_index];
??? }
else {
??? drive_pwr = 0;
??? }
msg.payload = drive_pwr;
return msg;
SPE
<HjQZttX3uTJtL460.png>
FTDX101MP (hamlib flow with rigctld server)
<0BLV09EvuVe03l1z.png>
<jKa0HKh80wIGWwyl.png>
<9mQvCI2bQMe6s24r.png>
73
vk4tux
Run at 1/3 rated power.
On 22/10/23 15:41, John Sparkes via
groups.io wrote:
Thanks very much, Adrian !
I have one of those new-fangled SS amps - a 2.5kW
PEP out unit from Onder at VK-AMPS. Very nice on CW and SSB, but
it doesn’t have the ability to run decent power out on digital
modes, so I stick with my DX-2SP for that.
Perhaps I need to by a couple more and combine the
output, broadcast style !
Cheers and thanks again,
John VK6JX?
|
Re: Symptom(s) for a fading 8877 tube?
Thanks very much, Adrian ! I have one of those new-fangled SS amps - a 2.5kW PEP out unit from Onder at VK-AMPS. Very nice on CW and SSB, but it doesn’t have the ability to run decent power out on digital modes, so I stick with my DX-2SP for that. Perhaps I need to by a couple more and combine the output, broadcast style ! Cheers and thanks again, John VK6JX?
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On 21 Oct 2023, at 12:24 pm, Adrian Fewster <vk4tux@...> wrote:
?
Some good material here ;
73
vk4tux
On 21/10/23 14:19, Adrian Fewster via
groups.io wrote:
On Thu, Oct 19, 2023 at 08:12 PM, John Sparkes wrote:
Thanks gents - the below was awesome. If you have
any other scientific papers/references on tubes, please post
the links.
Many thanks.
John VK6JX?
Glad to help with the post John. Tube amps are a dying breed in
VK, with solid state taking over, as pricing and devices improve.
It is good to save all the tube amp info one can find.
73
vk4tux
?
|
Re: Symptom(s) for a fading 8877 tube?
Thanks gents - the below was awesome. If you have any other scientific papers/references on tubes, please post the links. Many thanks. John VK6JX?
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On 20 Oct 2023, at 6:45 am, Adrian Fewster <vk4tux@...> wrote:
?On Mon, Oct 16, 2023 at 10:01 AM, Alan - W5ARM wrote:
If anything will kill an 8877 tube, it's LOW filament voltage.? An under-temp/cold cathode will cause striping of the coating off the cathode, dramatically shortening its life
This is not true, 'strip off' of the cathode coating is caused by cathode overdrive. Low 'heater' voltage in the oxide indirectly heated cathode increases cathode poisoning. also see ;
Oxide Cathode Life: Investigations into the Causes of Loss of Emission
A paper* read recently at the Institution of Electrical Engineers described the results of work by the Electronics Division of the Post Office Research Station (with its associated small valve factory) on the development of long-lived valves. The Post Office is interested in such valves mainly because of the need for them in submarine repeaters and other inaccessible apparatus; but their development is of considerable moment to others as well.
Apart from structural failures, with which the paper was not concerned, the life of a valve depends mainly upon the rate at which the emitting qualities of its cathode deteriorate with use. Loss of emission is the disease; if its causes are completely understood, we are more than half-way on the road towards finding a cure. There are two main accepted causes of oxide cathode deterioration: poisoning by attacks from residual gases, and the development and growth of inter-face resistance; on both of these the paper throws much new light.
Interface resistance was the subject of a recent article in?Wireless World.** The authors of the paper agree with Eaglesfield in accepting Eisenstein’s view that interface resistance is due to the growth of a film between the cathode body and the oxide matrix, and that its production is due to deliberately introduced impurities, chiefly silicon.
They find, though, that the film does not increase in thickness as the valve ages. It appears to build rapidly up to its maximum thickness, after which a steady change in its nature sets in; it is to this change that the increase in resistance is due. They consider that it is caused, in part at any rate, by deactivation of the interface by gas poisoning, much as the matrix itself is deactivated; hence the complete elimination of residual gas would be likely to check the growth of interface resistance, in addition to ensuring longer life for the emitting surface of the cathode.
A method has been developed of making a triode or pentode measure its own residual gas pressure. As electrons flow from cathode to anode some collide with gas molecules. The positive ions, so formed, travel to the negatively biased control-grid and set up reverse grid current ?rg, from which the residual pressure can be derived. It has, however, been found more convenient to use a “vacuum factor”:
?rg?(??A) k?= ———— ?a?(mA)
Investigation of the behaviour of the residual gas under working conditions showed that when?k?was plotted against time there was always a sharp initial rise, followed by a slow, roughly exponential fall until a value?k0?(the “residual vacuum factor”) was reached; the value of?k0?is constant. The area enclosed by the?k=f(t) and?k0?curves is a measure of the residual gas driven into the cathode and has been named the “gas integral.” It was found that valves with a high gas-integral were short-lived and that a low gas integral was an indication that long life might be expected.
Here, then, was one method of forecasting valve life after a test of comparatively brief duration; reliable tests of this kind are clearly needed for dealing with valves whose working lives may range up to 60,000 hours—say seven years of continuous running! Another of great value that has been evolved is the low-temperature total-emission test. Under working conditions emission is limited by the space charge; to measure the total emission there must be no such limiting factor. It is also desirable that the cathode temperature should be low enough for ionic equilibrium to be maintained within it. The method developed is to use the control grid as collector, making its potential +5V and earthing the other electrodes; for 6.3-V valves the heater is at about 2.6V.
In practice, valves are taken from the life-test rack, where they are running under working condition, and put through the total-emission test. The total emission, after a given number of working hours, can thus be plotted as a percentage of its original value.
The authors have no doubt that the amount of barium used for gettering the average valve is amply sufficient to absorb all residual gas if (and that is one of the big problems) physical association of gas and getter can be established. They have given much attention to the preparation of electrodes and supports and to pumping, gettering and ageing valves. It has been found that when residual gas is reduced (by methods suited so far to the laboratory rather than to the mass-production factory) to amounts far smaller than those in commercial valves, no deterioration in the emission occurs after thousands of hours of use. The authors’ estimates are always conservative; they see no reason why valves, with assured lives of 40,000 hours or more, should not be produced.
Poisoning of the cathode by occluded gases released from metal parts produces non-emitting patches on the surface of the cathode, which may be small and evenly distributed, or large and irregular. The authors in their investigations have found a new and unexpected source of cathode-poisoning gas. “A gas derived either directly or indirectly from the heated glass envelope,” they state, “is more destructive in action than any of the normal gas so far examined.” This gas is believed to be water vapour, which has been shown to have dire effects on a cathode at 1,000? K.
A second possibility is that the water vapour reacts with metallic carbides in the valve to produce unsaturated hydrocarbons of the acetylene type, which dissociate to form non-emitting carbon patches on the cathode.
R. W. H. WIRELESS WORLD FEBRUARY 1952
* “The Life of Oxide Cathodes in Modern Receiving Valves.” G. H. Metson, S. Wagener, M. F. Holmes and M. R. Child. ** “Valve Cathode Life.” C, C. Eaglesfield.?Wireless World, December, 1951
"? src >?
73
vk4tux
|
Re: Yeasu FL2100b input wiring voltages
The FL-2100B primary taps can be easily set for 234v operation. Although not specifically indicated in their wiring diagrams, it can be done. I have my FL-2100 wired this way... works great. See the pic (and attachment) of the OEM diagrams with an amendment for the 234v wiring arrangement (I made this change on my schematic).  73, ~Alan W5ARM
|
A Chinese tube never does from filament issues no matter??what amp they are in and what the filament voltage is. ?It will die from a G-F short or some other issue long before it dies from any filament issue of tenths of a volt. ?When operating tubes 24/7 key down in commercial service you could extend filament life in a 3-500 by watching the filament voltage.
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On Thursday, October 19, 2023, 3:02 PM, Adrian Fewster <vk4tux@...> wrote:
On 20/10/23 04:37, Dave w6de wrote:
In
this article Richard Measures
AG6K (SK) suggested using a smaller wire to feed the 3-500Z tube
to knock down the filament voltage.
?.. was one of a few methods, and with measurement being a
priority ;
"FILAMENT
VOLTAGE
The
filament-voltage, measured at the sockets, in my stock TL-922
was approx. 5.31v RMS @120V/240V line input.[2] This voltage
exceeds the manufacturer's maximum allowable filament-voltage
for the 3-500Z.
The
filament-voltage of low-operating-time 3-500Zs can be lowered
to approx. 4.8v for much longer tube life with no reduction in
RF power output. This approx. 9% decrease may not sound like
much, but according to one 3-500Z manufacturer, Eimac?, every
3% decrease in thoriated-tungsten filament-voltage doubles the
useful emission life of the cathode, provided that the
filament-voltage is kept slightly above the level that causes
a decrease in output power. A 9% decrease in filament-voltage
can increase the useful emission life by 2-cubed or 8-times.
In other words, one pair of tubes will last as long as 8 pairs
of tubes.
Reducing
filament voltage to achieve maximum power-grid tube life is a
considered to be good engineering practice in commercial
transmitters.
The
filament-voltage can be lowered to the desired level by
connecting (2) approx. 16milli-Ohm, 5W resistors in series
with the filament-leads on the filament-transformer. An easier
way to lower the filament-voltage is to replace the #14 wires
from the filament-transformer to the filament- choke with #22
high temperature insulated hook-up wire. Each wire will
dissipate about 4W [14.7A rms X .25v] over its approx. 40cm
length.[3] This raises the wire temperature only slightly to
the touch. The new wires can be loosely attached to the cable
harness, but they should not be buried in the cable harness;
they need to breathe. Although 200 degree C Teflon? insulation
would be nice, 105 degree C vinyl insulation is satisfactory.
Because
of regional variation in line-voltage /electric-mains voltage,
the actual filament-voltage should be measured, before and
after modification, at the sockets, with the amplifier
upsidedown and the bottom cover removed.
To
perform this measurement, the amplifier is switched on and the
standby/operate switch is set to standby.
If
a mains-voltage of 108V/216V is used with a TL-922 whose
filament-transformer taps are set for 120V/240V, the
filament-voltage probably does not need to be lowered.
Caution:
Bodily contact with the 120V/240V primary circuits, the +2000V
/ 3200V, or the +110V power-supplies can be fatal. The
built-in "safety interlocks" do NOT protect the operator from
all of these dangerous voltages - even if the amplifier is
switched off. To be foolproof, the amplifier must be
disconnected from the electric-mains. "
73
vk4tux
|
Somewhere is all the messages my question spawned; Adria Fewster posted a link to a Richard Measures, AG6K (SK), article about modifications to a Kenwood TL-922 amplifier.
In this article Richard Measures AG6K (SK) suggested using a smaller wire to feed the 3-500Z tube to knock down the filament voltage.
?
73,
Dave, w6de
?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of HaL Mandel via groups.io
Sent: 19 October, 2023 14:04
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [ham-amplifiers] Fading Away
?
Dear Mike,
?
Some years ago on the Amps @ Cont…Com
forum, mention was made on methods of
limiting thew inrush current to transmitting
tubes and I believe to remember someone
suggesting to run a lighter diameter piece
of wire in the filament circuit to limit the
颈苍谤耻蝉丑….
?
Hal Mandel
W4HBM
|
That would have been it Hal! ? Mod-U-Lator, Mike(y)/W3SLK ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of HaL Mandel Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2023 10:04 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [ham-amplifiers] Fading Away? Dear Mike, ? Some years ago on the Amps @ Cont…Com forum, mention was made on methods of limiting thew inrush current to transmitting tubes and I believe to remember someone suggesting to run a lighter diameter piece of wire in the filament circuit to limit the 颈苍谤耻蝉丑…. ? Hal Mandel W4HBM
|
Dear Mike,
?
Some years ago on the Amps @ Cont…Com
forum, mention was made on methods of
limiting thew inrush current to transmitting
tubes and I believe to remember someone
suggesting to run a lighter diameter piece
of wire in the filament circuit to limit the
颈苍谤耻蝉丑….
?
Hal Mandel
W4HBM
|
You know, this discussion of filament voltage and tube life just prompted me to why I originally joined the AMPS group and then consequently leading up to this group. The pieces finally fell into place. About 20 years ago I purchased a well-used, (but still very operational) RCA Radiomarine SB-1K amplifier. It uses a pair of 3-400Z’s at 2800VDC for a solid 1KW out. When I connected it to my electrical system, I was only getting ~~500W? out. I had 5.2 VAC at the transformer but 3.8 VAC (IIRC) at the tube socket! The short answer was the previous owner used a piece of lamp cord (gauge escapes me now but I wouldn’t run a filament with it!), to the filament. Replaced it with some stouter wire and I had 5.0 on the filaments again and a solid 1K out. I scratched my bohunkous many times wondering why somebody would do that. This recent discussion gave me the answer I believe. ? Mod-U-Lator, Mike(y)/W3SLK ? ?
|
Re: Yeasu FL2100b input wiring voltages
Yes, in the good old days when transformers were cheap, People
who ran the 2100 amps used an auto transformer, to cut the voltage
to 230V. In the generations that followed, as those amplifiers
were sold and sold again, those transformers got lost.? The need
for them still exists but these days, it is necessary to add a bit
of resistance into the filament line, to get the voltage close to
6.3V. Fortunately, there is room in the B and Z models to
accommodate some paralleled 5W wire wound resistors which drop the
voltage.
73, Alek VK6APK
On 19/10/2023 5:00 pm, Louis
Parascondola via groups.io wrote:
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Recently looking at a FL2100B that I wanted to switch over to run
on 240 instead of 120. ?Going to the manual tor switching the line
voltage you’ll notice that a range of input voltages are offered
even 100 and 200 volts as would be needed in Japan. ?For the US
the offerings “listed” in the manual/ schematic ?are 110-117-220.
?Being an older vintage amplifier we no longer have 110-117-220
voltages! ?The nominal voltage these days are 120-240 across the
country. ?Other only offering even close would be 117 and?220.
?Well the 117 wouldn’t be too bad for the nominal 120v, however,
?220 is way too little to put 240 volts on to. ?We have all
probably done it as it appears to be the only offering for the
higher voltage. ?UPON CLOSER INSPECTION of the schematic you’ll
notice the transformer is a dual primary winding ?off the same
taps ?both leading up to 117v each. ?Have a look. ?They do not
offer?the selection to strap the primary for dual 117v winds
allowing for 234v total. ?That would be way better to put 240 on
234 that on 220. ?So recently I did just that. ?I strapped it for
234v as it?would be. ?The HV is much closer to what it should be
and the filament voltage would be better also. ?Does anyone have
an idea why they didn’t offer that? ?Only thing I can think of is
they were unaware exactly how our voltage was back in the day.
?Ideas from anyone? ?Lou
|
In regard to seasonal line voltage changes, this is a very real issue ?in areas where houses are fed with unground utilities, like?developments.??Several houses?will be connected to pad mounted transformers. ?During the AC season many people will be drawing constant power to run big and multiple AC units! ?Your Line?voltage will most likely vary. ?Same goes for overhead wiring in an area where houses are close together. ?Many houses?connected to one transformer. ?In my case I’m lucky, I am the only house on my transformer! ?My line voltage doesn’t vary much at all because of that! ? ?You would probably have an easier time convincing ?the power company to add a smaller transformer just for you on the pole closest to your house if you pay for the cost. ?Trying to regulate the power on a varying basis due to an overloaded transformer by other users ?would be more difficult than just having your own. ?
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On Wednesday, October 18, 2023, 11:02 PM, Jim VE7RF <jim.thom@...> wrote: I would not recommend? using a BIG? 240 vac variac to run the entire amplifier.? You will end up with poorer V regulation.? ?The peak current on the 240 line, every 8.3 msecs will make you gag.? W8JI measured 60 amps every 8.3 msecs on an AL-1500 running 1.5 kw? CCS? CXR.? ?However, I have seen? BIG variacs used on 1-2 kw output amps.? But they gotta be big, in order to not get sag on peaks.?
?
I have seen? constant V xfmrs? (Sola and other brands)? that were as high as 10-50 kva.? ?To run just the 5V @ 10 amp fil on the 8877, a small, OUTBOARD? 125 va? ?sola could be used.?
?
The alpha 9500? only has taps for 220 vac...and also 240 vac.? ?They say not to use > 250 vac.? Below is from their manual.
"High: >250 V Lifetime of the tubes may be reduced. Ask your utility company if they can reduce your line voltage. If this is not possible, consider placing your own step-down transformer in line between the AC outlet and the amplifier. A transformer with at least 4-kVA rating is required, due to the nature of the current waveform in the primary. Another choice for voltage control, a ferro resonant voltage regulator, is an expensive solution, but is a good way to stabilize primary voltage."
250 vac is probably not going to damage anything.... except for perhaps the higher than normal fil V.? ?Sure, the B+ will be on the high side of normal, but that's really a non issue.?
Myself, I would be inclined to use a 5 vdc outboard supply..... and modify the rear apron, to? feed the external 5 vdc into the amp.? But that's just me.? ? I doubt you will get anywhere with the local power company.....you might, would not hurt to ask.?
?
Another possible option (instead of using an external 4 kva rated 250 to 240 xfmr)..... is to use a buck - boost xfmr.....in buck mode.? ? IE:? 240-250 vac primary, and a 10 vac (@ 50 amp)? secondary.? ?The 10 vac sec is wired in? series with one leg of the incoming 250 vac.? ?Then you end up with 240 vac? going into the amplifier.? This method has been used before with excellent results.? BUT,? you have to know when to use it, and when to remove it from the line.?
IE: keep track of seasonal? ?incoming V changes.?
?
I know several folks? who have 253 vac....and in some cases, even a bit higher..... in summertime.? ? (? AZ, Ga? etc).?
Jim? VE7RF
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Yeasu FL2100b input wiring voltages
Recently looking at a FL2100B that I wanted to switch over to run on 240 instead of 120. ?Going to the manual tor switching the line voltage you’ll notice that a range of input voltages are offered even 100 and 200 volts as would be needed in Japan. ?For the US the offerings “listed” in the manual/ schematic ?are 110-117-220. ?Being an older vintage amplifier we no longer have 110-117-220 voltages! ?The nominal voltage these days are 120-240 across the country. ?Other only offering even close would be 117 and?220. ?Well the 117 wouldn’t be too bad for the nominal 120v, however, ?220 is way too little to put 240 volts on to. ?We have all probably done it as it appears to be the only offering for the higher voltage. ?UPON CLOSER INSPECTION of the schematic you’ll notice the transformer is a dual primary winding ?off the same taps ?both leading up to 117v each. ?Have a look. ?They do not offer?the selection to strap the primary for dual 117v winds allowing for 234v total. ?That would be way better to put 240 on 234 that on 220. ?So recently I did just that. ?I strapped it for 234v as it?would be. ?The HV is much closer to what it should be and the filament voltage would be better also. ?Does anyone have an idea why they didn’t offer that? ?Only thing I can think of is they were unaware exactly how our voltage was back in the day. ?Ideas from anyone? ?Lou
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