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Shaper Cutter Set Suggestions #shapertools #shop-pics

 

Very, very nice Joe.? I'm leaning toward something like this for my daughter's kitchen style.? So, the panel is rebated only toward the back so it doesn't a show break from the front, I assume.? Curious why you did a haunch on the tenon rather than let the contact between the stile and rail make the stop?? Amazing how details stimulate learning and make better quality!
 

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Thanks Jacques and Jonathan for your feedback. I have been eyeing pica for some time now.

Imran Malik

On Jun 16, 2024, at 10:02?AM, Jonathan Martens via groups.io <jonathan@...> wrote:

?
On 16 Jun 2024 15:11, Jacques Gagnon <jacques.gagnon309@...> wrote:
A lumber crayon works very well on both rough and planed (surfaced) wood.
In my training as furniture maker (EU mainland) I was thought to mainly use a wood crayon for rough layout before sizing raw material, very rarely/sparingly on other occasions.?

On any processed surfaces and roughly dimensioned wood critical dimensions, like cut lines, joint layout lines and the like were to be made with at least a H, preferably 2H pencil or a marking knife.?
Don't overdo it as pressing hard when marking requires a lot of sanding.?
By methodical and mindfully marking on the side of the cut most of the times the marking lines would be removed sawing or would be the place to put your chisel in the final pairing cut of fitting/finishing joints.

Pairing marks and the like with HB pencil as these can be easily removed with some light sanding.?

Kind regards,?

Jonathan?
 

On 16 Jun 2024 18:43, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I have been eyeing pica for some time now.

I only use pica dry markers in general construction, marking raw dimensions on wood before cutting up or for pairing marks.?

In my experience the marker is to thick to stay sharp long enough for fine markings in furniture making. I prefer ordinary pencils for these cases.?

Kind regards,?

Jonathan?
 

I am using the Pica pencil. You can get the graphite in multiple colors (including white). It is really good for rough dimensions and general marking. It isn’t not good for fine furniture making. The graphite is too thick (even after sharpening the edge, the edge becomes wide pretty fast)
 

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Joe is using euro triangle system to show stiles and rails for sash and door,
I use a graders marker to rough mark,?
Japanese knife scribes and .07 H graphite to mark .
Mac,,




martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jun 16, 2024, at 12:32?PM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:

?I am using the Pica pencil. You can get the graphite in multiple colors (including white). It is really good for rough dimensions and general marking. It isn’t not good for fine furniture making. The graphite is too thick (even after sharpening the edge, the edge becomes wide pretty fast)

 

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Mine is 50 years old still working perfect. ?

mac,,

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jun 16, 2024, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:

?Joe is using euro triangle system to show stiles and rails for sash and door,
I use a graders marker to rough mark,?
Japanese knife scribes and .07 H graphite to mark .
Mac,,




martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jun 16, 2024, at 12:32?PM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:

?I am using the Pica pencil. You can get the graphite in multiple colors (including white). It is really good for rough dimensions and general marking. It isn’t not good for fine furniture making. The graphite is too thick (even after sharpening the edge, the edge becomes wide pretty fast)

 

Ron,
Those are haunched because I wanted a traditional mortise and tenon. I was using the HC mortiser for these and the exposed mortise out on the edge would not be clean.
The other option for this would be slot and tenon. With the slot made by a groover for a clean cut. That method is a lot quicker than a conventional haunched tenon. Cut your tenon, then cut the slot and joinery is done.
That’s how windows are done. The haunch on the inside of the door comes automatically as long as your groove is same width as tenon.
I only do this kind of joinery for myself, family and historical work. Most customers don’t care about the joinery.
Picture of the Garniga set tenon. Max length 50mm based on cutter diameter.

Customers usually get cope and dowel joinery like the second photo. That bevel shaker profile has a strong stub tenon and would probably do ok without the dowel.

IMG_9134.jpeg
IMG_5720.jpeg

 

Here are the steps for haunching. It is a bit labor intensive and this doesn’t show cutting the mortise.

IMG_5917.jpeg
IMG_5915.jpeg
IMG_5912.jpeg

 

Joe,

Thanks for sharing. I had never seen joinery combining tenon and dowel in the same axis.

I learned something again today thanks to the FOG?.

Regards,

Jacques

 
Edited

Jacques,
It’s not the way cabinet door mfgs do it but 30 years ago we were doing whole house projects and had trouble with square edge shaker doors cracking at the joint with stub tenons. Especially in VG Fir. From that point on we doweled all cope and stick joinery. I have a Hoffmann Bore system so it’s easy to dowel and accurate. Also aids at assembly. The local cabinet door mfg started doing that just for that reason.

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