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As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
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Paul, ? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Paul,? I think Felder originally had a bent piece hey of U channel ?than later came out with a cast block with f couplings. They bolted table edge ?they made s to s ?and s to f think
 F  Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:37 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Paul, ? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Hi Paul, Never liked the S coupling to hard to set extension tables and maintain accuracy. I would change to F A few things i did way back when that were helpful? Motorized planer table, used a 120 volt Bodine gear motor.it was easy to use manual or with motor no gear stress , instant reverse salvaged Hospital bed motor think i bought 3 at a junk store for $7.00 each. Had limit switches at top and bottom of stroke . and a AB joy stick that eliminated the hassle, joy stick would? stay up or down? and? able to micro adjust. I also put gas cylinders on the tables and they would lift themselves.?
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 09:10:54 AM CST, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
The S Coupling has always been a bit of a challenge to set up and maintain,?
I have looked at bolting F rails onto the dovetail to convert the whole machine up to the F Coupling but you end up with a bit of a dog breakfast and not a lot of material to engage the top levelling screw into.
I never fancied? taking the tables off the chassis to machine off the dovetail and fit the F rails, and then re-fit the tables which is the other option.
The edge web of the saw table is only 8mm thick so I'm not confident about cantilevering 6" extension table off that edge.
I'm going to use the infill plate slot and a steel strip to level the top surface so alignment should not be an issue.
In steel the table is 16lbs after a diet and then there is the weigh that could end up on top of it.
Aluminium would be about 4lbs as I would have to thicken some bits, but then there is the hassle of getting it hard anodized.
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Hi Paul,
Never liked the S coupling to hard to set extension tables and maintain accuracy. I would change to F
A few things i did way back when that were helpful?
Motorized planer table, used a 120 volt Bodine gear motor.it was easy to use manual or with motor no gear stress , instant reverse salvaged Hospital bed motor think i bought 3 at a junk store for $7.00 each.
Had limit switches at top and bottom of stroke . and a AB joy stick that eliminated the hassle, joy stick would? stay up or down? and? able to micro adjust.
I also put gas cylinders on the tables and they would lift themselves.?
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 09:10:54 AM CST, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Martin,?
I had forgotten about the old cast iron clamp on extension,?
I'm pretty sure that the cast extension in the drawing bolted to the planner table on the 6-41, and was only available in the F coupling.
Could you send the whole parts drawing? so I can figure it out.
Thanks
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Paul,?
I think Felder originally had a bent piece hey of U channel ?than later came out with a cast block with f couplings. They bolted table
edge ?they made s to s ?and s to f think
 
 F 
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:37 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Hi Paul,
My pet hate too!? The gap in between the tables, always seems you want to mount the fence right in it! They used to make a fence extension that could be used here it was part no EZ A(14/14)? I tried to get one years ago but Felder told me they didn't have any and weren't re-stocking!
It features in the1997/8 accessories brochure.
Regards,? Martin.
On Thursday, 21 January 2021, 14:30:38 GMT, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
|
Paul,
I know exactly what you mean. I got sick of the gap between the planer and saw table and the poor, to me, operation of the rip fence.
I used a length of 40/80 slotted aluminium extrusion clamped to the front of the saw table and made up my own sliding fence. The arrangement is similar to how the Hammer fence is arranged. It may look a little crude but it glides accross the tables easily and is just as solid as the original Felder fence.
I incorporated adjusters into it so I can set it square and also parallel to the saw blade.
The only slight disadvantage is that it does not tilt.
I managed to do this without drilling or modifying the machine or original fence in any way. The extrusion can be removed by backing off two 13mm bolts 1/2 turn each.
If you're interested I'll post up a few pictures but I won't be back at work till Monday.
Dave
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Please post some pictures?
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On Jan 22, 2021, at 12:13 PM, deliveries@... wrote:
?Paul,
I know exactly what you mean. I got sick of the gap between the planer and saw table and the poor, to me, operation of the rip fence.
I used a length of 40/80 slotted aluminium extrusion clamped to the front of the saw table and made up my own sliding fence. The arrangement is similar to how the Hammer fence is arranged. It may look a little crude but it glides accross the tables easily and is just as solid as the original Felder fence.
I incorporated adjusters into it so I can set it square and also parallel to the saw blade.
The only slight disadvantage is that it does not tilt.
I managed to do this without drilling or modifying the machine or original fence in any way. The extrusion can be removed by backing off two 13mm bolts 1/2 turn each.
If you're interested I'll post up a few pictures but I won't be back at work till Monday.
Dave
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Please post some pictures of what modification you have done?
Thank you in advance
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Paul,
I know exactly what you mean. I got sick of the gap between the planer and saw table and the poor, to me, operation of the rip fence.
I used a length of 40/80 slotted aluminium extrusion clamped to the front of the saw table and made up my own sliding fence. The arrangement is similar to how the Hammer fence is arranged. It may look a little crude but it glides accross the tables easily and is just as solid as the original Felder fence.
I incorporated adjusters into it so I can set it square and also parallel to the saw blade.
The only slight disadvantage is that it does not tilt.
I managed to do this without drilling or modifying the machine or original fence in any way. The extrusion can be removed by backing off two 13mm bolts 1/2 turn each.
If you're interested I'll post up a few pictures but I won't be back at work till Monday.
Dave
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Paul? I remember know that the plate that slides in a groove I attached a piece of phonolic machined to proper thickness to bring flush with table. ? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 22, 2021, at 12:37 PM, Marshall Snodgrass <mtsnodgrassdds@...> wrote:
? Please post some pictures of what modification you have done?
Thank you in advance
Marshall
Paul,
I know exactly what you mean. I got sick of the gap between the planer and saw table and the poor, to me, operation of the rip fence.
I used a length of 40/80 slotted aluminium extrusion clamped to the front of the saw table and made up my own sliding fence. The arrangement is similar to how the Hammer fence is arranged. It may look a little crude but it glides accross the tables easily and is just as solid as the original Felder fence.
I incorporated adjusters into it so I can set it square and also parallel to the saw blade.
The only slight disadvantage is that it does not tilt.
I managed to do this without drilling or modifying the machine or original fence in any way. The extrusion can be removed by backing off two 13mm bolts 1/2 turn each.
If you're interested I'll post up a few pictures but I won't be back at work till Monday.
Dave
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