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After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.?
I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.?
Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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Good luck with your move! I bought a Phase Perfect and it has worked very well. The specs are good, and when Felder learned I was installing a Phase Perfect, they didn;t bother having me send in the voltage on the legs, they said their experience with them was great. Over and over I have heard that a 10HP Phase Perfect does not need any additional padding (overspecing) so a 10HP PP will be fine with a 10HP motor.? Of course if you want to buy more power in anticipation?of beefier equipment in?the future, better sooner than later. Cheers Eric Janson
On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 1:10 PM Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote: After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.?
I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.?
Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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Eric thanks for your response.? What makes the phase perfect the better choice vs a rotary converter? Price is a consideration as I’ll have lots of other shop and house projects to do so if I can save a few thousand I’m happy to do so.?
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On Jun 4, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Eric Janson <jej@...> wrote:
? Good luck with your move! I bought a Phase Perfect and it has worked very well. The specs are good, and when Felder learned I was installing a Phase Perfect, they didn;t bother having me send in the voltage on the legs, they said their experience with them was great. Over and over I have heard that a 10HP Phase Perfect does not need any additional padding (overspecing) so a 10HP PP will be fine with a 10HP motor.? Of course if you want to buy more power in anticipation?of beefier equipment in?the future, better sooner than later. Cheers Eric Janson On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 1:10 PM Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote: After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.?
I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.?
Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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In my previous 1PH shop, i used a phase perfect converter, and it was superb.?
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On Jun 4, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Eric Janson < jej@...> wrote:
Good luck with your move! I bought a Phase Perfect and it has worked very well. The specs are good, and when Felder learned I was installing a Phase Perfect, they didn;t bother having me send in the voltage on the legs, they said their experience with them was great. Over and over I have heard that a 10HP Phase Perfect does not need any additional padding (overspecing) so a 10HP PP will be fine with a 10HP motor.? Of course if you want to buy more power in anticipation?of beefier equipment in?the future, better sooner than later. Cheers Eric Janson On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 1:10 PM Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote: After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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I’ve had two phase perfects. I bought them because I understood they provided cleaner power and I had invested a lot of money on my equipment and realized an electrical problem was something I definitely didn’t want.
I considered the extra cost to be like insurance.
Bill Belanger
In my previous 1PH shop, i used a phase perfect converter, and it was superb.? On Jun 4, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Eric Janson < jej@...> wrote:
Good luck with your move! I bought a Phase Perfect and it has worked very well. The specs are good, and when Felder learned I was installing a Phase Perfect, they didn;t bother having me send in the voltage on the legs, they said their experience with them was great. Over and over I have heard that a 10HP Phase Perfect does not need any additional padding (overspecing) so a 10HP PP will be fine with a 10HP motor.? Of course if you want to buy more power in anticipation?of beefier equipment in?the future, better sooner than later. Cheers Eric Janson On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 1:10 PM Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote: After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.?
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On Jun 4, 2022, at 10:34 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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Dan, The PP10 can take an inrush of 100amps for 4 or 6 sec (can’t remember which) once the machine is running a lot less amperage is required to run when not under load. Even ?under load alot ww machines won’t spike the amps that much, not all but some. In a one man shop it should never be a problem as you can only really use one machine at a time. So you could start a saw, jointer, planer…let them run but you could only put one under load at a time unless you are a magician.
For example my 9hp widebelt when turned on spikes at 100+ amps for a few seconds then when running and not under load it is pulling under 10 amps and under load 10-15 amps unless i miscalculate the adjustment and take too much off then i have seen it jump to 40amps
If you can buy new thats great, I bought mine from Bill B for about 1/2 new. They come up every once and awhile, when i was looking i saw that they come up for sale on machinists forums often.
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On Jun 5, 2022, at 9:22 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote:
? Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.? On Jun 4, 2022, at 10:34 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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Dan,?
I too am running a Phase Perfect PT010 (build year 2020) and it has been great. It runs on a 80A 240V 1Ph circuit breaker, I think the next size up requires a 160A breaker, which is greater than your sub panel so probably a "no-go!". I regularly run a 4hp 3Ph RL160 along with my 7.5hp 3Ph KF700SP, or my 7.5hp 3Ph 16" wide belt with no problems, I expect the same when I receive my 7.5hp 3Ph FB710 and 10hp 3Ph shaper.
As David Best writes, the staff at Phase Technologies are great to work with, and were very patient with me as I worked through which appliance to order and how to set it up.?
Best wishes,?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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It don't remember reading about a dust collector.? ?Assuming it's 3 phase, that should be in your sizing decision.?
I? have a 30 hp PP.? It's been in operation for 7 years now and has been flawless.?
Marlowe McGraw?
On Sun, Jun 5, 2022, 9:29 AM < tom@...> wrote: Dan,?
I too am running a Phase Perfect PT010 (build year 2020) and it has been great. It runs on a 80A 240V 1Ph circuit breaker, I think the next size up requires a 160A breaker, which is greater than your sub panel so probably a "no-go!". I regularly run a 4hp 3Ph RL160 along with my 7.5hp 3Ph KF700SP, or my 7.5hp 3Ph 16" wide belt with no problems, I expect the same when I receive my 7.5hp 3Ph FB710 and 10hp 3Ph shaper.
As David Best writes, the staff at Phase Technologies are great to work with, and were very patient with me as I worked through which appliance to order and how to set it up.?
Best wishes,?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Dan,
? ? I had a 40HP rotary (used). ran my 20hp wide belt, no complaints, but it has no sophisticated digital controls/motorized lifts, so it just took whatever you could throw at it for power.
However, once I purchased an F900z and read the electrical specs and tolerances of accuracy required to maintain warranty, I tested, found the hot leg was out of balance at 270v output. Time/expense paid to hire a rare pro who can sit for several hours balancing out to match was just not going to happen. I found my only viable option was to get rid of the rotary and go with a phase perfect, which I was longing for anyway.?I bought a 20hp Phase Perfect, as that's the rating on my largest machine, so running the 10hp F900z is a breeze for it.?
In short, biggest difference is plug and play, precise real-time matching to load of the phase perfect, regardless which of the 3phase machines is running at the time.?
Jeff
?
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My dust collector is a clearvue 5hp 1ph cyclone so that will run on a separate single phase circuit.? To the guys that have purchased new ones recently, did you go with the original or enterprise model? With what options??
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On Jun 5, 2022, at 12:37 PM, Jeff Roltgen <9namkcits@...> wrote:
?Dan,
? ? I had a 40HP rotary (used). ran my 20hp wide belt, no complaints, but it has no sophisticated digital controls/motorized lifts, so it just took whatever you could throw at it for power.
However, once I purchased an F900z and read the electrical specs and tolerances of accuracy required to maintain warranty, I tested, found the hot leg was out of balance at 270v output. Time/expense paid to hire a rare pro who can sit for several hours balancing out to match was just not going to happen. I found my only viable option was to get rid of the rotary and go with a phase perfect, which I was longing for anyway.?I bought a 20hp Phase Perfect, as that's the rating on my largest machine, so running the 10hp F900z is a breeze for it.?
In short, biggest difference is plug and play, precise real-time matching to load of the phase perfect, regardless which of the 3phase machines is running at the time.?
Jeff
?
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Like I said Dan, PP under rate their equipment. ?On top of that Felder plays games with their HP ratings - they will often suggest a given machine is 10HP at S1 rating, and the same motor as 7/5HP with an S6 rating. ? I haven’t looked at the motor plates on my equipment to see the KW ratings, but the HP ratings I listed are what Felder claims. ? So I suggest you gather up the KW specs for your equipment and have that in hand when you call PP.
Also, a 5.5HP RL160 will not be pulling maximum current unless there is no resistance to the airflow - so with the piping and necking down inside the machines, I doubt my RL is ever pulling the equivalent of 5.5HP. ?The same can be said for loads on the saw, shaper, jointer, planer. ?What I can say is that with the planer taking 3mm depth of cut on 16” wide red oak (did this last weekend) and the RL160 sucking all the chips, I still had enough power left to cut 3/4” Appleply on the Kappa 400 at the same time.
Speaking of 3/4” Appleply, here is the latest local retail on that product. ?Same material in 2020 was $115. ?My cost is less 20%, but still . . . . .
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On Jun 5, 2022, at 6:22 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.? ? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
<DSC_7155.jpg>
<DSC_7160.jpg>
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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? Dan,
FWIW, here are the currents of various size 3 phase motors while idling. Motors draws FLA, listed on the name plate, when developing rated HP. Most of us don’t get there.
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On Jun 5, 2022, at 4:08 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Like I said Dan, PP under rate their equipment. ?On top of that Felder plays games with their HP ratings - they will often suggest a given machine is 10HP at S1 rating, and the same motor as 7/5HP with an S6 rating. ? I haven’t looked at the motor plates on my equipment to see the KW ratings, but the HP ratings I listed are what Felder claims. ? So I suggest you gather up the KW specs for your equipment and have that in hand when you call PP.
Also, a 5.5HP RL160 will not be pulling maximum current unless there is no resistance to the airflow - so with the piping and necking down inside the machines, I doubt my RL is ever pulling the equivalent of 5.5HP. ?The same can be said for loads on the saw, shaper, jointer, planer. ?What I can say is that with the planer taking 3mm depth of cut on 16” wide red oak (did this last weekend) and the RL160 sucking all the chips, I still had enough power left to cut 3/4” Appleply on the Kappa 400 at the same time.
Speaking of 3/4” Appleply, here is the latest local retail on that product. ?Same material in 2020 was $115. ?My cost is less 20%, but still . . . . .
 On Jun 5, 2022, at 6:22 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.? ? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
<DSC_7155.jpg>
<DSC_7160.jpg>
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
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Those may or may not be the same motors Dan has.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Show quoted text
? Dan,
FWIW, here are the currents of various size 3 phase motors while idling. Motors draws FLA, listed on the name plate, when developing rated HP. Most of us don’t get there.
/g/felderownersgroup/message/114733? Like I said Dan, PP under rate their equipment. ?On top of that Felder plays games with their HP ratings - they will often suggest a given machine is 10HP at S1 rating, and the same motor as 7/5HP with an S6 rating. ? I haven’t looked at the motor plates on my equipment to see the KW ratings, but the HP ratings I listed are what Felder claims. ? So I suggest you gather up the KW specs for your equipment and have that in hand when you call PP.
Also, a 5.5HP RL160 will not be pulling maximum current unless there is no resistance to the airflow - so with the piping and necking down inside the machines, I doubt my RL is ever pulling the equivalent of 5.5HP. ?The same can be said for loads on the saw, shaper, jointer, planer. ?What I can say is that with the planer taking 3mm depth of cut on 16” wide red oak (did this last weekend) and the RL160 sucking all the chips, I still had enough power left to cut 3/4” Appleply on the Kappa 400 at the same time.
Speaking of 3/4” Appleply, here is the latest local retail on that product. ?Same material in 2020 was $115. ?My cost is less 20%, but still . . . . .
<Indicators - 1.jpeg>On Jun 5, 2022, at 6:22 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.? ? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
<DSC_7155.jpg>
<DSC_7160.jpg>
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
|
David,
The reason to share was to add data to what you and others were saying. The post shows the KW and FLA of each motor and the measured current to provide an idea. Certainly, covers the range of Dan’s 7.5 & 10HP equipment.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 5, 2022, at 7:10 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Those may or may not be the same motors Dan has.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
? Dan,
FWIW, here are the currents of various size 3 phase motors while idling. Motors draws FLA, listed on the name plate, when developing rated HP. Most of us don’t get there.
/g/felderownersgroup/message/114733? Like I said Dan, PP under rate their equipment. ?On top of that Felder plays games with their HP ratings - they will often suggest a given machine is 10HP at S1 rating, and the same motor as 7/5HP with an S6 rating. ? I haven’t looked at the motor plates on my equipment to see the KW ratings, but the HP ratings I listed are what Felder claims. ? So I suggest you gather up the KW specs for your equipment and have that in hand when you call PP.
Also, a 5.5HP RL160 will not be pulling maximum current unless there is no resistance to the airflow - so with the piping and necking down inside the machines, I doubt my RL is ever pulling the equivalent of 5.5HP. ?The same can be said for loads on the saw, shaper, jointer, planer. ?What I can say is that with the planer taking 3mm depth of cut on 16” wide red oak (did this last weekend) and the RL160 sucking all the chips, I still had enough power left to cut 3/4” Appleply on the Kappa 400 at the same time.
Speaking of 3/4” Appleply, here is the latest local retail on that product. ?Same material in 2020 was $115. ?My cost is less 20%, but still . . . . .
<Indicators - 1.jpeg>On Jun 5, 2022, at 6:22 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.? ? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
<DSC_7155.jpg>
<DSC_7160.jpg>
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
|
Imran, Felder has switched motor suppliers so your data may or may not be up to date depending on build dates of the machines. ?ATB has gone bankrupt and Felder is thus no longer supplying those motors. ?Your posted numbers are probably close, but Dan (or anyone else wanting specific electrical info) should check their own motor plates.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
David,
The reason to share was to add data to what you and others were saying. The post shows the KW and FLA of each motor and the measured current to provide an idea. Certainly, covers the range of Dan’s 7.5 & 10HP equipment. ? Those may or may not be the same motors Dan has.
? Dan,
FWIW, here are the currents of various size 3 phase motors while idling. Motors draws FLA, listed on the name plate, when developing rated HP. Most of us don’t get there.
/g/felderownersgroup/message/114733? Like I said Dan, PP under rate their equipment. ?On top of that Felder plays games with their HP ratings - they will often suggest a given machine is 10HP at S1 rating, and the same motor as 7/5HP with an S6 rating. ? I haven’t looked at the motor plates on my equipment to see the KW ratings, but the HP ratings I listed are what Felder claims. ? So I suggest you gather up the KW specs for your equipment and have that in hand when you call PP.
Also, a 5.5HP RL160 will not be pulling maximum current unless there is no resistance to the airflow - so with the piping and necking down inside the machines, I doubt my RL is ever pulling the equivalent of 5.5HP. ?The same can be said for loads on the saw, shaper, jointer, planer. ?What I can say is that with the planer taking 3mm depth of cut on 16” wide red oak (did this last weekend) and the RL160 sucking all the chips, I still had enough power left to cut 3/4” Appleply on the Kappa 400 at the same time.
Speaking of 3/4” Appleply, here is the latest local retail on that product. ?Same material in 2020 was $115. ?My cost is less 20%, but still . . . . .
<Indicators - 1.jpeg>On Jun 5, 2022, at 6:22 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.? ? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
<DSC_7155.jpg>
<DSC_7160.jpg>
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
|
Here are the sticker on the slider and motor plates on planer (12.5hp) and jointer (7.5”). Interestingly enough the motor on the planer is actually a 12.5hp not 10hp like the guys at Alliance Machinery labeled it .. The planer does have an internal switch that can easily go between 230v and 460v.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 5, 2022, at 8:14 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Imran, Felder has switched motor suppliers so your data may or may not be up to date depending on build dates of the machines. ?ATB has gone bankrupt and Felder is thus no longer supplying those motors. ?Your posted numbers are probably close, but Dan (or anyone else wanting specific electrical info) should check their own motor plates.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
David,
The reason to share was to add data to what you and others were saying. The post shows the KW and FLA of each motor and the measured current to provide an idea. Certainly, covers the range of Dan’s 7.5 & 10HP equipment. ? Those may or may not be the same motors Dan has.
? Dan,
FWIW, here are the currents of various size 3 phase motors while idling. Motors draws FLA, listed on the name plate, when developing rated HP. Most of us don’t get there.
/g/felderownersgroup/message/114733? Like I said Dan, PP under rate their equipment. ?On top of that Felder plays games with their HP ratings - they will often suggest a given machine is 10HP at S1 rating, and the same motor as 7/5HP with an S6 rating. ? I haven’t looked at the motor plates on my equipment to see the KW ratings, but the HP ratings I listed are what Felder claims. ? So I suggest you gather up the KW specs for your equipment and have that in hand when you call PP.
Also, a 5.5HP RL160 will not be pulling maximum current unless there is no resistance to the airflow - so with the piping and necking down inside the machines, I doubt my RL is ever pulling the equivalent of 5.5HP. ?The same can be said for loads on the saw, shaper, jointer, planer. ?What I can say is that with the planer taking 3mm depth of cut on 16” wide red oak (did this last weekend) and the RL160 sucking all the chips, I still had enough power left to cut 3/4” Appleply on the Kappa 400 at the same time.
Speaking of 3/4” Appleply, here is the latest local retail on that product. ?Same material in 2020 was $115. ?My cost is less 20%, but still . . . . .
<Indicators - 1.jpeg>On Jun 5, 2022, at 6:22 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.? ? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
<DSC_7155.jpg>
<DSC_7160.jpg>
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
|
Dan,
???? Just to put in my two cents worth. I had to save money and did go with a rotary converter for my older K700s.? I bought my rotary in 2020 from North America Phase Converter Co. I did weigh the pros and cons of a rotary as compared to digital converters.? I also bought a wired remote switch for it. All have been working fine and the support I got from them has always been A+. I have called them 5 or 6 times and have never had any wait to get tech help or anything else.? Good luck with your move, Tom Ruth
|
? Dan,
From basic calculations both motors are actually bigger than nameplate. My guess is that they have been derated due to “continuous duty” or other factors.
For example, the planer motor FLA @ 230VAC is 29.8A. This means that the motor is ~10KW (maybe they told you 10KW as opposed to 10HP). Here is the formula:
29.8A x 230V x 1.732 x 0.88 = 10446 Watts
0.88 is power factor
So 9.2KW is actually a ~12% derating.
A service factor of 1.15 means that the planer motor can deliver 12KW for a short term.
HTH,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 6, 2022, at 11:07 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk <dgwoodco@...> wrote: ? Here are the sticker on the slider and motor plates on planer (12.5hp) and jointer (7.5”). Interestingly enough the motor on the planer is actually a 12.5hp not 10hp like the guys at Alliance Machinery labeled it .. The planer does have an internal switch that can easily go between 230v and 460v.? On Jun 5, 2022, at 8:14 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Imran, Felder has switched motor suppliers so your data may or may not be up to date depending on build dates of the machines. ?ATB has gone bankrupt and Felder is thus no longer supplying those motors. ?Your posted numbers are probably close, but Dan (or anyone else wanting specific electrical info) should check their own motor plates.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
David,
The reason to share was to add data to what you and others were saying. The post shows the KW and FLA of each motor and the measured current to provide an idea. Certainly, covers the range of Dan’s 7.5 & 10HP equipment. ? Those may or may not be the same motors Dan has.
? Dan,
FWIW, here are the currents of various size 3 phase motors while idling. Motors draws FLA, listed on the name plate, when developing rated HP. Most of us don’t get there.
/g/felderownersgroup/message/114733? Like I said Dan, PP under rate their equipment. ?On top of that Felder plays games with their HP ratings - they will often suggest a given machine is 10HP at S1 rating, and the same motor as 7/5HP with an S6 rating. ? I haven’t looked at the motor plates on my equipment to see the KW ratings, but the HP ratings I listed are what Felder claims. ? So I suggest you gather up the KW specs for your equipment and have that in hand when you call PP.
Also, a 5.5HP RL160 will not be pulling maximum current unless there is no resistance to the airflow - so with the piping and necking down inside the machines, I doubt my RL is ever pulling the equivalent of 5.5HP. ?The same can be said for loads on the saw, shaper, jointer, planer. ?What I can say is that with the planer taking 3mm depth of cut on 16” wide red oak (did this last weekend) and the RL160 sucking all the chips, I still had enough power left to cut 3/4” Appleply on the Kappa 400 at the same time.
Speaking of 3/4” Appleply, here is the latest local retail on that product. ?Same material in 2020 was $115. ?My cost is less 20%, but still . . . . .
<Indicators - 1.jpeg>On Jun 5, 2022, at 6:22 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thanks David for the lengthy explanation. It looks like I will be placing an order for a 10hp PP. I’m curious how you’re able to run so much more hp on the converter than it’s rated for? That’s almost double the amount.? ? I highly recommend you go with a Phase Perfect rather than a rotary. ??
A rotary is a mechanical device - basically a motor that uses some of the windings to generate the 3rd leg of power. ?So it makes noise when it’s running, and heat, and all that comes with running a motor - including power consumption when it’s on - even if the equipment attached to it (like your saw,?dust extractor, etc.) is turned off. ?The rotary converters will consume enough more electricity sitting idle to pay for the extra cost of a PP in about 5-7 years, and rotary units are notorious for creating other problems with high voltage spikes on the manufactured leg. ?
I’ve had both types, and if you can afford the Phase Perfect, it will serve you better long term.
In contrast the Phase Perfect is a digital solution that also generates the 3rd leg, but does so without employing mechanical means to do so. ?It doesn’t consume power when the equipment attached to it is turned off, and the output is voltage stabilized, so it’s highly desirable in shops with sensitive electronic equipment.
My Phase Perfect has been the most reliable and trouble free piece of equipment that runs on electricity in my shop. ? I’ve owned it 18 yeas now. ?I have their prior generation 10HP unit - the DPC-A10, and the?current generation equivalent is the PT010. ?It powers my Dual 51 13HP in?conjunction with my RL160 5.5HP with enough left over to also run my Kappa 400 in idle. ?So their equipment is seriously under rated IMO, but check with them if you have any questions about sizing.
Your next questions are probably going to be about shop wiring for 3P. ?DM me if you want some suggestions.
The?Phase Perfect service is terrific if anything does go wrong. ? I dropped mine from 12 feet onto the corner of another machine during a move, and I was sure it was going to the scrap bin - photos follow. ? But they insisted I ship it back to the, and they had it repaired and returned to me within a week and it cost me $512 for the repairs and $200 for freight. ??
<DSC_7155.jpg>
<DSC_7160.jpg>
On Jun 4, 2022, at 12:10 PM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
After 4 years in my current commercial ship rental with three phase, I’m taking the plunge and buying a house with a 1k square foot detached garage. Closing is July 22, move will take place in August.? I’ll be needing a way to power my three phase equipment on single phase power so looking for the best way to do so. The garage has a 120amp sub panel from the house.? Three phase equipment coming with me are a 10hp 25” planer, 7.5hp 16” jointer, 7.5 hp k700s, and a 7.5hp f700z shaper on the way (due for delivery end of August)?
I’m leaning towards a American rotary 15hp phase converter (possibly 20hp to account for future equipment). But I’ve also been hearing a lot about Phase Perfect converters. What are the pros and cons of each type? Any input will be greatly appreciated.?
Not included on this list is my 10hp single phase 43” timesaver wide belt.?
|
Dan Gavrilyuk
Bill Belanger
David P. Best
Tom Gensmer
imran