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FB710 bandsaw and Laguna Resaw king 25mm blade

 

Hi group,

does anyone have experience fixing some unnecessary/unusual vibration on the above set up.

I have tensioned to the scale in the wheel for a 25mm blade and it would appear to have enough tension, I could go more but would worry to pull the tracking out with the blade moving forward on the wheel¡­.

every 30/40 seconds it tends to vibrate¡­.move left and right out off the line of the cut for a few seconds¡­.its very visible, then it settles back to running sweet. this is without cutting and utilising the blades beam strength.?


once I make a cut I get a rougher cut than before¡­

I am thinking it¡¯s the blade as I sent it for a re sharpen recently (they say you can sharpen up to 4 times!!) having an odd frequency.?

I have checked the blade and had the bests and wheels realigned recently and it¡¯s running much sweeter than before.

any suggestions/advice greatly appreciated¡­.

br

colum
 

Hi Colum,?

I am running this exact setup, 1" Resaw King on a FB-710, 7.5hp motor.?

I have not run into this vibration issue. Is it vibrating when cutting wood, or simply idling? Do you have another Resaw King to compare? I usually have two blades so I can have a blade on the machine while the other is out for sharpening....

--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
 

Hi Tom

Nice to hear I am not alone!!.

Yes always two blades, will swap over the other one tomorrow and see if the one with zero miles on the clock has the same issue.?

The vibration is only on the blade and is most noticeable when idle¡­.

This is causing the guides (ceramic) to spark and sometimes moves them out, thus increasing drift.

Note there is no vibration on the table of motor struggling¡­.seems to be only the frequency of the blade which is strange to me.

Do you need to over tension the blade?.?

Quality of resaw king is excellent so not sure where to go next!.

Br

Colum

On Thu 13 Jun 2024 at 15:56, Tom Gensmer via <tom=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Colum,?

I am running this exact setup, 1" Resaw King on a FB-710, 7.5hp motor.?

I have not run into this vibration issue. Is it vibrating when cutting wood, or simply idling? Do you have another Resaw King to compare? I usually have two blades so I can have a blade on the machine while the other is out for sharpening....

--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

 

Hi Tom,

??????? I've been running a 1"Lenox Woodmaster CT for I think about 5 years now and have yet to replace it. How often do you have to sharpen your Resaw King blades about? Do you resaw something like every week? I can go a month or so and not use my resaw at all. I have a spare blade, but I'm waiting for the need to change it. I've been resawing redwood lately so that's not really much of a test for the blade. I'm curious about the RK blades of course, as the Lenox can't be sharpened that I know of. Tom Ruth
 

Hi Tom Ruth,?

I have not needed to sharpen my current Resaw King yet, I just always buy two of any given blade as a matter of course. I rarely resaw. Rather, my bandsaw is my primary method for ripping solid lumber, so it does see daily use. The only time I use my KF700 for ripping is to establish an initial straight edge, everything else is at the band saw. I mostly work with Sapele, Pine, White Oak, and VG Fir, usually 8/4 stock.?

Colum, I'd be interested to hear if your backup blade displays the same or different behavior. I should say that I am running 1-1/4" Resaw King. I have the tension set so the indicator is a little past the 30mm mark.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
 

Not to change the subject, but where do you send carbide bandsaw blades to be sharpened?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Laguna has a service in West Columbia SC.?


On Jun 13, 2024, at 1:33?PM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?Not to change the subject, but where do you send carbide bandsaw blades to be sharpened?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941

 

Thanks, Michael! With that info I was able to find them on line.

$65 to re-sharpen is better than $200 for a new blade.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
 
Edited

Here's a foolproof method of wheel and motor alignment which you could try,
with a stout old/damaged blade in which won't overhang the edges of the wheels.
(This will compress the set on regular blades, if there's no camber of the tires, as will playing by the rules, i.e teeth overhanging with such a profile)

It would show up the shortcomings of all bandsaws designed today,
seeing as they don't make anything like the fully adjustable Centauro, Meber and Sagittario saws from the later 80's to the early 90's, it's no surprise you won't come across any troubleshooting guide worth it's salt.


One could do the same thing with a pen laser mounted onto the wheel shafts,
and perhaps not even need to remove the table.
I mention that, as the edges/faces/lips of the wheel might not be within tolerance to register a
beam across,
though it's no problem to check that the entire wheel gives the same reading with the scribing beam,
and possibly without even removing the table.


Here's a thread which might explain things better, that is..
if you haven't stumbled across this on some other threads, particularly some Centauro ones of recent.
/g/MinimaxOwnersGroup/topic/102755275#msg3705
There's a little on tire profile also, should that be of interest,
as from what I've seen and read, it seems like those budget Felder tires are a bit iffy to me...

Iffy in a sort of way that the "solution" as it were, is to use a blade which has no set to compress,
and crank down on the blade, (which is what's suggested from the likes of Lenox and the likes)
Here's likely the best thread on blades you will find, which mentions carbide needs more tension.
!

Just a hunch, but I'd bet there's plenty of folks who've tried regular blades on tires of that ilk,
before going with carbide, and the set is compressed on the lot.
The underside of the cut might be the biggest giveaway, if you've got a few more horses than me.






All the best
Tom
 

Thanks Tom, very informative group, thanks for the two references and your note. Will give it a bit of extra tension and see how it goes.

On the tensioning side, what is the guidance on releasing tension when not in use, I use it almost daily when in the shop, mainly for rip cuts, should I de tension over night..to remove load on spring?

Have a great day

Colum

On Fri 14 Jun 2024 at 00:06, Tom Trees via <tomgwoodworks=[email protected]> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Here's a foolproof method of wheel and motor alignment which you could try,
with a stout old/damaged blade in which won't overhang the edges of the wheels.
(This will compress the set on regular blades, if there's no camber of the tires, as will playing by the rules, i.e teeth overhanging with such a profile)

It would show up the shortcomings of all bandsaws designed today,
seeing as they don't make anything like the fully adjustable Centauro, Meber and Sagittario saws from the later 80's to the early 90's, it's no surprise you won't come across any troubleshooting guide worth it's salt.


One could do the same thing with a pen laser mounted onto the wheel shafts,
and perhaps not even need to remove the table.
I mention that, as the edges/faces/lips of the wheel might not be within tolerance to register a
beam across,
though it's no problem to check that the entire wheel gives the same reading with the scribing beam,
and possibly without even removing the table.


Here's a thread which might explain things better, that is..
if you haven't stumbled across this on some other threads, particularly some Centauro ones of recent.
/g/MinimaxOwnersGroup/topic/102755275#msg3705
There's a little on tire profile also, should that be of interest,
as from what I've seen and read, it seems like those budget Felder tires are a bit iffy to me...

Iffy in a sort of way that the "solution" as it were, is to use a blade which has no set to compress,
and crank down on the blade, (which is what's suggested from the likes of Lenox and the likes)
Here's likely the best thread on blades you will find, which mentions carbide needs more tension.
!

Just a hunch, but I'd bet there's plenty of folks who've tried regular blades on tires of that ilk,
before going with carbide, and the set is compressed on the lot.
The underside of the cut might be the biggest giveaway, if you've got a few more horses than me.






All the best
Tom

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