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????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
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Pantorouter. Plus useful for many other things.
Not everyone's taste here, though.?
-Brett Wissel
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
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I use Keller. Bought them a long time ago before composites. These work great and have basically large and small sizes. Flawless through dovetails. Here is a pic.
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
-- Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
New Century Realtors
200 E. Big Beaver Rd.| Troy, MI | 48084
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Multi router these days.? I’ve got a Leigh Jig that sits on the shelf collection dust.? For me, its far less expensive to order boxes for routine cabinet type work and I only build if species or design warrants.? Anything in a piece of furniture I’m more likely to cut by hand.
I use Keller. Bought them a long time ago before composites. These work great and have basically large and small sizes. Flawless through dovetails. Here is a pic. ????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
New Century Realtors
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I have a Leigh which I bought used on FB marketplace for about the same cost as the Porter Cable I've had for years.? For two drawers, it will take you longer to set either of them up than to actually cut the dovetails.? Or to hand cut them.? It would be cheaper for you to outsource them if that's what you normally do anyway.
I mostly build 18th century furniture reproductions.? I use Mike Pekovich's?hybrid method (tails cut on a tablesaw, pins hand cut with waste removed by router/bearing).? It works very well and is actually quicker than setting up either the PC or Leigh.
If you go that route, you'll want to get a tablesaw blade ground to 10° (which is 1:6).? They can be bought from Woodworker or Ridge Carbide, but they're expensive.? If you have an older blade you're not using, you can sent it out to be reground to those specs--CT Saw and Tool did mine (the original SawStop blade that came with my saw that I had never used) for 25 dollars including return shipping and I had it in my hands 2 days after they received it.? If you have other questions, feel free to ask.? Jeff
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
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Setting up dovetails is enough of a pain that I've settled on one size for cabinets and vanities ( that are just functional, not artistic).? I like 9mm bottoms and half blind dovetails to hide the slots.? Years ago I found an Omec 650M for cheap and leave it
set up for one of the four sizes it comes with.? Pneumatic clamping and at least some dust collection.? Makes no real sense but I grin when I use it and it can crank out boxes in a couple of minutes with no set up.? I'm easily entertained.? Dave
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I have a Leigh which I bought used on FB marketplace for about the same cost as the Porter Cable I've had for years.? For two drawers, it will take you longer to set either of them up than to actually cut the dovetails.? Or to hand cut them.?
It would be cheaper for you to outsource them if that's what you normally do anyway.
I mostly build 18th century furniture reproductions.? I use Mike Pekovich's?hybrid method (tails cut on a tablesaw, pins hand cut with waste removed by router/bearing).? It works very well and is actually quicker than setting up either the PC or Leigh.
If you go that route, you'll want to get a tablesaw blade ground to 10° (which is 1:6).? They can be bought from Woodworker or Ridge Carbide, but they're expensive.? If you have an older blade you're not using, you can sent it out to be reground to those
specs--CT Saw and Tool did mine (the original SawStop blade that came with my saw that I had never used) for 25 dollars including return shipping and I had it in my hands 2 days after they received it.? If you have other questions, feel free to ask.? Jeff
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the
Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
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I have the Keller but haven’t used it in a long time, i had a Leigh and man did it take a long time to set it up, sold it Keller is definitely faster.?
Sometimes on a small piece i will hand cut all of it, it just adds an element to the piece that machines can’t replicate (aka handmade?). Most of the time I cut my tails on the saw, hand saw and chop the pins, get a 14 deg blade they look much better in my opinion.
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On Jun 12, 2022, at 10:19 AM, Jeff <onehpbmw@...> wrote:
? I have a Leigh which I bought used on FB marketplace for about the same cost as the Porter Cable I've had for years.? For two drawers, it will take you longer to set either of them up than to actually cut the dovetails.? Or to hand cut them.? It would be cheaper for you to outsource them if that's what you normally do anyway.
I mostly build 18th century furniture reproductions.? I use Mike Pekovich's?hybrid method (tails cut on a tablesaw, pins hand cut with waste removed by router/bearing).? It works very well and is actually quicker than setting up either the PC or Leigh.
If you go that route, you'll want to get a tablesaw blade ground to 10° (which is 1:6).? They can be bought from Woodworker or Ridge Carbide, but they're expensive.? If you have an older blade you're not using, you can sent it out to be reground to those specs--CT Saw and Tool did mine (the original SawStop blade that came with my saw that I had never used) for 25 dollars including return shipping and I had it in my hands 2 days after they received it.? If you have other questions, feel free to ask.? Jeff ????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
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I use the Keller jig but I made attachments for it as shown. ?My "go to" drawer is through dovetails in 5/8 material for drawers using the Blum undermount. ?I have written out the widths of the front/back/sides that will allow the dovetails to be nice and even at the bottom and top and for the drawer bottom groove for 1/4 or 3/8 thick drawer bottoms to not be visible from the sides while allowing 1/2 inch space under the drawer bottom to accommodate the Blum undermount hardware. ?
When I want to make dovetails for projects like the ones as shown, I first place the wood so that it is in contact with a stop block that is set to creates the appropriate alignment. ?Then the other stop that is on a T track slides and can be tightened in place to prevent any movement. ?I clamp the wood to the jig using the very simple 2 clamps that are adjusted for 5/8 thick stock. ?Then, I cut using a router table with the bit set to the correct height using a height gauge. ?Same setup pins and tails. ?I know that if my wood is the right width, and the bit is at the right height, all will be well. ?
The only thing I can think of that would more simple other than perhaps a dedicated dovetail machine would be to use the jig with a shaper with HSK spindles dedicated to the bits so you do not have to measure the bit height. ?It would be a preset. ?However, it has been router table for me. ?
I once had a Leigh jig. Never used it and sold it for a loss. ?What it can do looks great on their project photos, but for me, I was not into the learning curve and setup time. ?I make enough mistakes as it is, and I like things as idiot proof as possible
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Joe, nice jig! I made mine how Mr. Keller had his when he used to Demo his own product at woodworking shows. I also have the 24” set and larger dovetail bits appropriate for the larger set. I think (FWIW) that If you are making dovetails, they should show because they are beautiful.? Nothing beats the simplicity of Keller!
I use the Keller jig but I made attachments for it as shown.? My "go to" drawer is through dovetails in 5/8 material for drawers using the Blum undermount.? I have written out the widths of the front/back/sides that will allow the dovetails to be nice and even at the bottom and top and for the drawer bottom groove for 1/4 or 3/8 thick drawer bottoms to not be visible from the sides while allowing 1/2 inch space under the drawer bottom to accommodate the Blum undermount hardware. ?
When I want to make dovetails for projects like the ones as shown, I first place the wood so that it is in contact with a stop block that is set to creates the appropriate alignment.? Then the other stop that is on a T track slides and can be tightened in place to prevent any movement.? I clamp the wood to the jig using the very simple 2 clamps that are adjusted for 5/8 thick stock.? Then, I cut using a router table with the bit set to the correct height using a height gauge.? Same setup pins and tails.? I know that if my wood is the right width, and the bit is at the right height, all will be well. ?
The only thing I can think of that would more simple other than perhaps a dedicated dovetail machine would be to use the jig with a shaper with HSK spindles dedicated to the bits so you do not have to measure the bit height.? It would be a preset.? However, it has been router table for me. ?
I once had a Leigh jig. Never used it and sold it for a loss.? What it can do looks great on their project photos, but for me, I was not into the learning curve and setup time.? I make enough mistakes as it is, and I like things as idiot proof as possible
-- Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
New Century Realtors
200 E. Big Beaver Rd.| Troy, MI | 48084
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I second the Keller for it's simplicity. However for just a drawer or two I use table saw/bandsaw method that doesn't require a specially ground blade. Just uses your dado stack. It's super flexible and allows for spacing however you like, even uneven. Looks hand cut. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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I’ll second all the suggestions for the Keller - mostly for it’s simplicity. ?I’ve owned the PC and sold it. ?I also own and have used once (only) the? Leigh DR4 - which is great if you?want?variable spaced dovetails and don’t mind complexity. ?If anyone wants a complete like new?Leigh setup with every conceivable router bit for it, DM me.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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On Jun 12, 2022, at 7:21 PM, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
I second the Keller for it's simplicity. However for just a drawer or two I use table saw/bandsaw method that doesn't require a specially ground blade. Just uses your dado stack. It's super flexible and allows for spacing however you like, even uneven. Looks hand cut. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Brian
Jeff
Jason Holtz
David P. Best