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Extend your short beam that’s closest to the blade guard and add two sets of the linear bearings spaced 12” to 16” apart and it will be worlds more stable. The plastic UHMW bearinsg they use with 8020 are a bit sloppy. If you really want nice movement, purchase some linear rails and trucks off ebay and integrate those.
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On Jul 17, 2020, at 2:02 PM, Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote:
Reworked the design a bit with an updated sliding mechanism -- I'll have to hope it doesn't introduce a ton of play/slop in the arm.
Anyone with experience with 80/20 linear bearings for this application??
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Brian, Imran -- I think both your suggestions are great, will definitely extend the extrusion for some added support and exploring more bearing options. I like these bearings because I'm lazy and I didn't want to machine anything more than I needed. I've been learning Fusion 360 (it is a pain in the butt) with my little mill and I have a new found appreciation for machinists & their patience.?
Dave -- I have used 80/20 since my first CNC router build back some 7 yrs ago and fell in love with them, so while it seems I have a lot of them laying around I really just order what I need direct from them, on demand. Their service and packing are impeccable and I almost always find what I need from their eBay store at reasonable rates. Yes, costly but compared to having to powder coat, wire brush, and weld steel, I think I end up ahead in terms of labor saved. I think I assembled the arm in my design in like 15 - 20 minutes, which is a big savings.?
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Every now and then I'll see a table or some enclosure on FB marketplace made out of 80/20 and I keep thinking I should buy it just for the components. Dave
On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:47 PM Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote: Brian, Imran -- I think both your suggestions are great, will definitely extend the extrusion for some added support and exploring more bearing options. I like these bearings because I'm lazy and I didn't want to machine anything more than I needed. I've been learning Fusion 360 (it is a pain in the butt) with my little mill and I have a new found appreciation for machinists & their patience.?
Dave -- I have used 80/20 since my first CNC router build back some 7 yrs ago and fell in love with them, so while it seems I have a lot of them laying around I really just order what I need direct from them, on demand. Their service and packing are impeccable and I almost always find what I need from their eBay store at reasonable rates. Yes, costly but compared to having to powder coat, wire brush, and weld steel, I think I end up ahead in terms of labor saved. I think I assembled the arm in my design in like 15 - 20 minutes, which is a big savings.?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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I did this setup a few years back w/ 8020 but mine was bolted to the wall over the K3. Not to long ago I've taken it down to fit my ShopSabre Pro404 in its place and yet to reinstall it. Basically had to pivot it to avoid the path of the ducting. Cut out 3/8" alum plate pivoting on 3/4" shaft. Worked pretty good. Did the manual connection by knob. Same for the up/down of the guard. Fitted the 3" hose over the top. Most of the alum was put together w/ Lord Adhesive Maxlok T/18 for the guard. That block of wood was for installation. It did dip a little due to weight. I believe I used HD 1530 for the arm. Suction was pretty good i think. Neat project, and after seeing some things pop up like this is getting me motivated to doing more stuff.  Ronnie
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Linear rails bolt right into the slots on 8020, so very little fabricating/drilling.
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On Jul 17, 2020, at 8:47 PM, Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote:
Brian, Imran -- I think both your suggestions are great, will definitely extend the extrusion for some added support and exploring more bearing options. I like these bearings because I'm lazy and I didn't want to machine anything more than I needed. I've been learning Fusion 360 (it is a pain in the butt) with my little mill and I have a new found appreciation for machinists & their patience.?
Dave -- I have used 80/20 since my first CNC router build back some 7 yrs ago and fell in love with them, so while it seems I have a lot of them laying around I really just order what I need direct from them, on demand. Their service and packing are impeccable and I almost always find what I need from their eBay store at reasonable rates. Yes, costly but compared to having to powder coat, wire brush, and weld steel, I think I end up ahead in terms of labor saved. I think I assembled the arm in my design in like 15 - 20 minutes, which is a big savings.?
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There are other brands than 8020, I keep seeing a guy selling surplus here on Craig’s List and it’s pretty cheap, although limited in choices for size.
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Every now and then I'll see a table or some enclosure on FB marketplace made out of 80/20 and I keep thinking I should buy it just for the components. Dave On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 10:47 PM Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote: Brian, Imran -- I think both your suggestions are great, will definitely extend the extrusion for some added support and exploring more bearing options. I like these bearings because I'm lazy and I didn't want to machine anything more than I needed. I've been learning Fusion 360 (it is a pain in the butt) with my little mill and I have a new found appreciation for machinists & their patience.?
Dave -- I have used 80/20 since my first CNC router build back some 7 yrs ago and fell in love with them, so while it seems I have a lot of them laying around I really just order what I need direct from them, on demand. Their service and packing are impeccable and I almost always find what I need from their eBay store at reasonable rates. Yes, costly but compared to having to powder coat, wire brush, and weld steel, I think I end up ahead in terms of labor saved. I think I assembled the arm in my design in like 15 - 20 minutes, which is a big savings.?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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That's pretty cool, Ronnie! Thanks for sharing -- that pivot looks awesome and a neat idea to fix to the wall. If I add a pivot, it would be an iteration of your design.?There are a lot of people who make mods / new parts to various machines so glad to provide a bit of inspiration...I have one other saw related project that's still in early design stages :). Brian -- at the very least, I think I will need a mating plate for the carriage/trucks. The majority (if not all) of the Asian cheapie rails are metric. I'll keep exploring; there are a lot of makers.? Last night, I milled the first of the 3 adapter plates. Forgive the chatter on the surface, I'm not using the best work holding methods right now - that roughness is because 4" of the plate was hanging off the vise unsupported :).  
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Looks great! If you can mill that, you can make the mounting plates for the trucks. All linear rails are metric, 12mm, 15mm, 20mm, 25mm and up.?
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On Jul 18, 2020, at 9:49 AM, Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote:
That's pretty cool, Ronnie! Thanks for sharing -- that pivot looks awesome and a neat idea to fix to the wall. If I add a pivot, it would be an iteration of your design.?There are a lot of people who make mods / new parts to various machines so glad to provide a bit of inspiration...I have one other saw related project that's still in early design stages :).
Brian -- at the very least, I think I will need a mating plate for the carriage/trucks. The majority (if not all) of the Asian cheapie rails are metric. I'll keep exploring; there are a lot of makers.?
Last night, I milled the first of the 3 adapter plates. Forgive the chatter on the surface, I'm not using the best work holding methods right now - that roughness is because 4" of the plate was hanging off the vise unsupported :).
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<IMG_1180.jpeg>
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oh, forgot to add, use mill jacks under the unsupported ends sticking out of the vise to quiet down the chatter.
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On Jul 18, 2020, at 9:49 AM, Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote:
That's pretty cool, Ronnie! Thanks for sharing -- that pivot looks awesome and a neat idea to fix to the wall. If I add a pivot, it would be an iteration of your design.?There are a lot of people who make mods / new parts to various machines so glad to provide a bit of inspiration...I have one other saw related project that's still in early design stages :).
Brian -- at the very least, I think I will need a mating plate for the carriage/trucks. The majority (if not all) of the Asian cheapie rails are metric. I'll keep exploring; there are a lot of makers.?
Last night, I milled the first of the 3 adapter plates. Forgive the chatter on the surface, I'm not using the best work holding methods right now - that roughness is because 4" of the plate was hanging off the vise unsupported :).
<IMG_9044.jpeg>
<IMG_1180.jpeg>
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2nd bracket completed and fitted with the bearing. It couples to the first bracket to support both the actuator and bearing. Here's a video of the test run I did last night:? Surprisingly smooth for a cheap actuator. I haven't confirmed this yet, but if the control electronics are 24v, this could easily link into the up/down power drive buttons to move in tandem with the saw blade; that would be cool.?   
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That is where I would like to get someday, vertical from the ceiling.
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On Jul 19, 2020, at 10:42 AM, Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote:
2nd bracket completed and fitted with the bearing. It couples to the first bracket to support both the actuator and bearing.
Here's a video of the test run I did last night:?
Surprisingly smooth for a cheap actuator.
I haven't confirmed this yet, but if the control electronics are 24v, this could easily link into the up/down power drive buttons to move in tandem with the saw blade; that would be cool.?
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Mark F: Hanging from the ceiling is a good idea; less stress about swinging out and sag, etc. You can get an actuator as long as several feet so it can definitely be done! I'd like to see it.??
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On Jul 19, 2020, at 11:42 AM, Sang Luu <sangluu@...> wrote: ?2nd bracket completed and fitted with the bearing. It couples to the first bracket to support both the actuator and bearing. Here's a video of the test run I did last night:? Surprisingly smooth for a cheap actuator. I haven't confirmed this yet, but if the control electronics are 24v, this could easily link into the up/down power drive buttons to move in tandem with the saw blade; that would be cool.? <IMG_6995.jpeg> <IMG_3739.jpeg> <IMG_1396.jpeg>
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Updated with the motor controller, push buttons and interconnects. Here's the latest video of the guard in action. I think I'll keep this as is while I get through a few more woodworking projects and then add the sliding mechanism. Will update the thread when that happens. I used 5 pin aviation interconnects for both the motor and switch hookups for easy removal.  Wiring inside the dust guard assembly within one of the unused cavities:  19mm momentary push buttons mounted. I tried to incorporate Felder OE but they were just too bulky.??  The motor controller is the green module -- it takes an active high signal and provides simple forward / reverse control for DC motors in a very small package. It's made by Phoenix Contact.? 
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Very cool, but maybe I’m missing something, but where does the hose connect to the hood?
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On Jul 20, 2020, at 8:42 AM, Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote:
Updated with the motor controller, push buttons and interconnects. Here's the latest video of the guard in action. I think I'll keep this as is while I get through a few more woodworking projects and then add the sliding mechanism. Will update the thread when that happens.
I used 5 pin aviation interconnects for both the motor and switch hookups for easy removal.
<IMG_8189.jpeg>
Wiring inside the dust guard assembly within one of the unused cavities:
<IMG_3982.jpeg>
19mm momentary push buttons mounted. I tried to incorporate Felder OE but they were just too bulky.??
<IMG_4398.jpeg>
The motor controller is the green module -- it takes an active high signal and provides simple forward / reverse control for DC motors in a very small package. It's made by Phoenix Contact.?
<Screen Shot 2020-07-20 at 8.22.24 AM.png>
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Forgot to add that detail (probably important since dust control was one of the main objectives)!?I haven't hooked it up yet, but I will be running a short section of the 3" hose to some rigid spiral pipe on the back of the arm. The extrusion profile itself can be pressurized but can't use it for suction like you could with tube steel, so I have to either let the hose hang or introduce the piping in an unobtrusive way. The first picture in my earlier update?shows the dust port on the guard assembly.?
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I see it now… you had me puzzled...
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On Jul 20, 2020, at 10:05 AM, Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote:
Forgot to add that detail (probably important since dust control was one of the main objectives)!?I haven't hooked it up yet, but I will be running a short section of the 3" hose to some rigid spiral pipe on the back of the arm. The extrusion profile itself can be pressurized but can't use it for suction like you could with tube steel, so I have to either let the hose hang or introduce the piping in an unobtrusive way. The first picture in my earlier update?shows the dust port on the guard assembly.?
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Very cool and a very neat installation. ??I want one on my saw! ? Gil Fuqua Nashville ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Sang Luu
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2020 10:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] #diy #dustguard K700s Dust Guard ? Updated with the motor controller, push buttons and interconnects. Here's the latest video of the guard in action. I think I'll keep this as is while I get through a few more woodworking projects and then add the sliding mechanism. Will update the thread when that happens.
I used 5 pin aviation interconnects for both the motor and switch hookups for easy removal.
Wiring inside the dust guard assembly within one of the unused cavities:
19mm momentary push buttons mounted. I tried to incorporate Felder OE but they were just too bulky.??
The motor controller is the green module -- it takes an active high signal and provides simple forward / reverse control for DC motors in a very small package. It's made by Phoenix Contact.?
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Pics with hose + pipe attached.  Pneumatic clamp clearance:  Wide shot:  Hose clearance:?  I can't say that going from 2" (the Euroguard that came with the saw) to 3" offers better suction but dust collection appears to work as expected.? As a result of this upgrade, I have retired the Euroguard II -- if someone wants it, send me a prepaid UPS or USPS label and it's yours.?
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On Jul 23, 2020, at 10:30 AM, Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote:
Pics with hose + pipe attached.
<IMG_4794.jpeg>
Pneumatic clamp clearance:
<IMG_1608.jpeg>
Wide shot:
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Hose clearance:?
<IMG_2667.jpeg>
I can't say that going from 2" (the Euroguard that came with the saw) to 3" offers better suction but dust collection appears to work as expected.?
As a result of this upgrade, I have retired the Euroguard II -- if someone wants it, send me a prepaid UPS or USPS label and it's yours.?
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Sang Luu
Mark Foster
imran