|
Thanks Imran.. the reamer I used was an adjustable reamer.. works exactly like you described.. I had to adjust it 4 or 5 times till the desired size was achieved..
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 05:49:53 AM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Well done. Looks great. What kind of reamer did you use? Ones I have seen work for thru holes with adjusting nut on the bottom.
Imran
On May 23, 2020, at 8:34 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote: ?
I will say, the seating of the bearing in the aluminum took a little time.? I used 4" wide x 6" long x 5/16" thick 6061 aluminum plates.? I put some green masking tape on both plates and used CA glue to glue the 2 plates together so they would not move.? I used a 15/16" drill bit ( bearings are 26mm in dia.) and drilled the holes on both ends of the plates,? Took a chisel and separated the plates after all the holes were drilled and then used an adjustable reamer to ream open the holes drilled for the bearings until the holes were just right and pressed the bearings in..The are seated very tightly and will not budge.? This is what prevents the sag of the arms when assembled?
On Friday, May 22, 2020, 09:53:15 PM PDT, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
For the mid-section of what I hope will be the super-easy-and-inexpensive-to-make-in-your-shop version, I made a quick demo of the plan for the pivot mechanism (gear will be used but omitted at this time). ?In picture 1, you see a 2 inch Forstner bit being used to drill partially through one of the pieces. ?The center indentation can be a guide for the drilling of the smaller hole in the middle for the bolt. ?Another way to insure a dead center hole is to clamp the workpiece, and change bits without moving the wood. ?Figure 2 shows a nice fit of the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearing. ?After the hole is bored (figure 3), a hole is bored in the other piece of wood, and with washers, and a nut and bolt, the units are assembled. ?For those who do not want to deal with seating bearings in aluminum, this bearing method may work well. ?I just need to make sure there will be adequate strength in the wood.?
|
Randy,
I guess the nut at bottom is smaller than the ID of the bearing. I have only seen smaller reamers and the nut or the threaded rod is close to the size of the reamer OD. Just was curious how you achieved flat bottom.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 23, 2020, at 9:22 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote: ?
Thanks Imran.. the reamer I used was an adjustable reamer.. works exactly like you described.. I had to adjust it 4 or 5 times till the desired size was achieved..
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 05:49:53 AM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Well done. Looks great. What kind of reamer did you use? Ones I have seen work for thru holes with adjusting nut on the bottom.
Imran
On May 23, 2020, at 8:34 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
I will say, the seating of the bearing in the aluminum took a little time.? I used 4" wide x 6" long x 5/16" thick 6061 aluminum plates.? I put some green masking tape on both plates and used CA glue to glue the 2 plates together so they would not move.? I used a 15/16" drill bit ( bearings are 26mm in dia.) and drilled the holes on both ends of the plates,? Took a chisel and separated the plates after all the holes were drilled and then used an adjustable reamer to ream open the holes drilled for the bearings until the holes were just right and pressed the bearings in..The are seated very tightly and will not budge.? This is what prevents the sag of the arms when assembled?
On Friday, May 22, 2020, 09:53:15 PM PDT, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
For the mid-section of what I hope will be the super-easy-and-inexpensive-to-make-in-your-shop version, I made a quick demo of the plan for the pivot mechanism (gear will be used but omitted at this time). ?In picture 1, you see a 2 inch Forstner bit being used to drill partially through one of the pieces. ?The center indentation can be a guide for the drilling of the smaller hole in the middle for the bolt. ?Another way to insure a dead center hole is to clamp the workpiece, and change bits without moving the wood. ?Figure 2 shows a nice fit of the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearing. ?After the hole is bored (figure 3), a hole is bored in the other piece of wood, and with washers, and a nut and bolt, the units are assembled. ?For those who do not want to deal with seating bearings in aluminum, this bearing method may work well. ?I just need to make sure there will be adequate strength in the wood.?
|
The holes I reamed, I reamed to a slight hair below 26mm..the ID hole on the bearing is 10mm..I used a 10mm bolt to secure everything together
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 06:38:41 AM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
I guess the nut at bottom is smaller than the ID of the bearing. I have only seen smaller reamers and the nut or the threaded rod is close to the size of the reamer OD. Just was curious how you achieved flat bottom.
Imran
On May 23, 2020, at 9:22 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote: ?
Thanks Imran.. the reamer I used was an adjustable reamer.. works exactly like you described.. I had to adjust it 4 or 5 times till the desired size was achieved..
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 05:49:53 AM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Well done. Looks great. What kind of reamer did you use? Ones I have seen work for thru holes with adjusting nut on the bottom.
Imran
On May 23, 2020, at 8:34 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
I will say, the seating of the bearing in the aluminum took a little time.? I used 4" wide x 6" long x 5/16" thick 6061 aluminum plates.? I put some green masking tape on both plates and used CA glue to glue the 2 plates together so they would not move.? I used a 15/16" drill bit ( bearings are 26mm in dia.) and drilled the holes on both ends of the plates,? Took a chisel and separated the plates after all the holes were drilled and then used an adjustable reamer to ream open the holes drilled for the bearings until the holes were just right and pressed the bearings in..The are seated very tightly and will not budge.? This is what prevents the sag of the arms when assembled?
On Friday, May 22, 2020, 09:53:15 PM PDT, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
For the mid-section of what I hope will be the super-easy-and-inexpensive-to-make-in-your-shop version, I made a quick demo of the plan for the pivot mechanism (gear will be used but omitted at this time). ?In picture 1, you see a 2 inch Forstner bit being used to drill partially through one of the pieces. ?The center indentation can be a guide for the drilling of the smaller hole in the middle for the bolt. ?Another way to insure a dead center hole is to clamp the workpiece, and change bits without moving the wood. ?Figure 2 shows a nice fit of the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearing. ?After the hole is bored (figure 3), a hole is bored in the other piece of wood, and with washers, and a nut and bolt, the units are assembled. ?For those who do not want to deal with seating bearings in aluminum, this bearing method may work well. ?I just need to make sure there will be adequate strength in the wood.?
|
Joel,
Is there going to be that much space between the two pieces or is thus where the gears go?
Randy’s version has gears on one side only, if your version is similar than is there enough depth in wood to get two pieces of wood closer?
I am guessing that if the two pieces of wood are abutted, with UHMW tape between, that should increase rigidity.?
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 23, 2020, at 12:53 AM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote: ?For the mid-section of what I hope will be the super-easy-and-inexpensive-to-make-in-your-shop version, I made a quick demo of the plan for the pivot mechanism (gear will be used but omitted at this time). ?In picture 1, you see a 2 inch Forstner bit being used to drill partially through one of the pieces. ?The center indentation can be a guide for the drilling of the smaller hole in the middle for the bolt. ?Another way to insure a dead center hole is to clamp the workpiece, and change bits without moving the wood. ?Figure 2 shows a nice fit of the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearing. ?After the hole is bored (figure 3), a hole is bored in the other piece of wood, and with washers, and a nut and bolt, the units are assembled. ?For those who do not want to deal with seating bearings in aluminum, this bearing method may work well. ?I just need to make sure there will be adequate strength in the wood.?
<1.JPG> <2.JPG> <3.jpg> <4.jpg>
|
The holes for the bearings are through holes, correct?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The holes I reamed, I reamed to a slight hair below 26mm..the ID hole on the bearing is 10mm..I used a 10mm bolt to secure everything together
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 06:38:41 AM PDT, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
I guess the nut at bottom is smaller than the ID of the bearing. I have only seen smaller reamers and the nut or the threaded rod is close to the size of the reamer OD. Just was curious how you achieved flat bottom.
Imran ?
Thanks Imran.. the reamer I used was an adjustable reamer.. works exactly like you described.. I had to adjust it 4 or 5 times till the desired size was achieved..
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 05:49:53 AM PDT, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Well done. Looks great. What kind of reamer did you use? Ones I have seen work for thru holes with adjusting nut on the bottom.
Imran ?
I will say, the seating of the bearing in the aluminum took a little time.? I used 4" wide x 6" long x 5/16" thick 6061 aluminum plates.? I put some green masking tape on both plates and used CA glue to glue the 2 plates together so they would not move.? I used a 15/16" drill bit ( bearings are 26mm in dia.) and drilled the holes on both ends of the plates,? Took a chisel and separated the plates after all the holes were drilled and then used an adjustable reamer to ream open the holes drilled for the bearings until the holes were just right and pressed the bearings in..The are seated very tightly and will not budge.? This is what prevents the sag of the arms when assembled?
On Friday, May 22, 2020, 09:53:15 PM PDT, joelgelman via < joelgelman@...> wrote:
For the mid-section of what I hope will be the super-easy-and-inexpensive-to-make-in-your-shop version, I made a quick demo of the plan for the pivot mechanism (gear will be used but omitted at this time). ?In picture 1, you see a 2 inch Forstner bit being used to drill partially through one of the pieces. ?The center indentation can be a guide for the drilling of the smaller hole in the middle for the bolt. ?Another way to insure a dead center hole is to clamp the workpiece, and change bits without moving the wood. ?Figure 2 shows a nice fit of the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearing. ?After the hole is bored (figure 3), a hole is bored in the other piece of wood, and with washers, and a nut and bolt, the units are assembled. ?For those who do not want to deal with seating bearings in aluminum, this bearing method may work well. ?I just need to make sure there will be adequate strength in the wood.?
|
Was there a reference earlier to using a loading dock light arm to suspend the vac hose and power cord?? Perhaps none were long enough and or could not support the load of the hose?? There is one at Amazon with a 60" boom that might work if the work table/bench was against the wall.
Just asking, as I'd like to get a vacuum sanding table and it would have to put it against the shop wall.
Bob
|
Yes..they go all the way thru on my version
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 07:59:43 AM PDT, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
The holes for the bearings are through holes, correct?
The holes I reamed, I reamed to a slight hair below 26mm..the ID hole on the bearing is 10mm..I used a 10mm bolt to secure everything together
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 06:38:41 AM PDT, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
I guess the nut at bottom is smaller than the ID of the bearing. I have only seen smaller reamers and the nut or the threaded rod is close to the size of the reamer OD. Just was curious how you achieved flat bottom.
Imran ?
Thanks Imran.. the reamer I used was an adjustable reamer.. works exactly like you described.. I had to adjust it 4 or 5 times till the desired size was achieved..
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 05:49:53 AM PDT, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote:
Randy,
Well done. Looks great. What kind of reamer did you use? Ones I have seen work for thru holes with adjusting nut on the bottom.
Imran ?
I will say, the seating of the bearing in the aluminum took a little time.? I used 4" wide x 6" long x 5/16" thick 6061 aluminum plates.? I put some green masking tape on both plates and used CA glue to glue the 2 plates together so they would not move.? I used a 15/16" drill bit ( bearings are 26mm in dia.) and drilled the holes on both ends of the plates,? Took a chisel and separated the plates after all the holes were drilled and then used an adjustable reamer to ream open the holes drilled for the bearings until the holes were just right and pressed the bearings in..The are seated very tightly and will not budge.? This is what prevents the sag of the arms when assembled?
On Friday, May 22, 2020, 09:53:15 PM PDT, joelgelman via < joelgelman@...> wrote:
For the mid-section of what I hope will be the super-easy-and-inexpensive-to-make-in-your-shop version, I made a quick demo of the plan for the pivot mechanism (gear will be used but omitted at this time). ?In picture 1, you see a 2 inch Forstner bit being used to drill partially through one of the pieces. ?The center indentation can be a guide for the drilling of the smaller hole in the middle for the bolt. ?Another way to insure a dead center hole is to clamp the workpiece, and change bits without moving the wood. ?Figure 2 shows a nice fit of the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearing. ?After the hole is bored (figure 3), a hole is bored in the other piece of wood, and with washers, and a nut and bolt, the units are assembled. ?For those who do not want to deal with seating bearings in aluminum, this bearing method may work well. ?I just need to make sure there will be adequate strength in the wood.?
|
the loading dock arms sag way too much to be used as a boom arm..i have one of the loading dock arms for my Tiger Stop controller and it sags more than I'd like it to..
On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 08:47:21 AM PDT, Robert Johnson <woodewe@...> wrote:
Was there a reference earlier to using a loading dock light arm to suspend the vac hose and power cord?? Perhaps none were long enough and or could not support the load of the hose?? There is one at Amazon with a 60" boom that might work if the work table/bench was against the wall.
Just asking, as I'd like to get a vacuum sanding table and it would have to put it against the shop wall.
Bob
|
The pipe is thinner and lighter than standard PVC, and with 2 inch OD. ?Options considered included having holes made with a Forstner bit along the length of each arm to decrease weight while maintaining rigidity and integrity to avoid sag-twist. ?Another option considered was having just the 1 upper tube for the vac hose and have the power cords housed under that within the arms where they could then be threaded through a bit of flex hose at the articulation to guide them and prevent pinching.
For the "wood version" with the wider angled thrust bearings, we are considering top and bottom pieces of maple 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch thick, and how to make the area of the arms strong where they meet the center pivot section. ?One option could be a little aluminum on the top bottom as reinforcement. ?The idea for the "wood version" not to avoid aluminum, but to develop something that can be built in less time with less need for working with aluminum and precision bearing placement, yet have the same functionality and very adequate strength and durability. ?That is mostly to benefit others wanting to make one, and that gets worked on when the hoses and more gears arrive. ?
|
Joel, ? Maybe a group buy of the aluminum pieces?? The could be CNC'd with the recess cut for the bearing?? Dave Davies
On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 12:36 PM joelgelman via <joelgelman= [email protected]> wrote: The pipe is thinner and lighter than standard PVC, and with 2 inch OD.? Options considered included having holes made with a Forstner bit along the length of each arm to decrease weight while maintaining rigidity and integrity to avoid sag-twist.? Another option considered was having just the 1 upper tube for the vac hose and have the power cords housed under that within the arms where they could then be threaded through a bit of flex hose at the articulation to guide them and prevent pinching.
For the "wood version" with the wider angled thrust bearings, we are considering top and bottom pieces of maple 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch thick, and how to make the area of the arms strong where they meet the center pivot section.? One option could be a little aluminum on the top bottom as reinforcement.? The idea for the "wood version" not to avoid aluminum, but to develop something that can be built in less time with less need for working with aluminum and precision bearing placement, yet have the same functionality and very adequate strength and durability.? That is mostly to benefit others wanting to make one, and that gets worked on when the hoses and more gears arrive. ?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 24, 2020, at 1:36 PM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote: ?The pipe is thinner and lighter than standard PVC, and with 2 inch OD. ?Options considered included having holes made with a Forstner bit along the length of each arm to decrease weight while maintaining rigidity and integrity to avoid sag-twist. ?Another option considered was having just the 1 upper tube for the vac hose and have the power cords housed under that within the arms where they could then be threaded through a bit of flex hose at the articulation to guide them and prevent pinching.
For the "wood version" with the wider angled thrust bearings, we are considering top and bottom pieces of maple 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch thick, and how to make the area of the arms strong where they meet the center pivot section. ?One option could be a little aluminum on the top bottom as reinforcement. ?The idea for the "wood version" not to avoid aluminum, but to develop something that can be built in less time with less need for working with aluminum and precision bearing placement, yet have the same functionality and very adequate strength and durability. ?That is mostly to benefit others wanting to make one, and that gets worked on when the hoses and more gears arrive. ?
|
Joel,
Ive been following this thread for a while. I agree with David in a group purchase project.?
I’ve got a machinist friend with a CNC mill he uses exclusively for aluminum. He does amazing intricate work on a wide variety of custom parts. If you get a group purchase organized, I wouldn’t mind taking a sample or specs to him for a quote.?
So far, he has been ridiculously inexpensive for the projects I’ve taken to him.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 24, 2020, at 10:52 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Joel, ? Maybe a group buy of the aluminum pieces?? The could be CNC'd with the recess cut for the bearing?? Dave Davies On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 12:36 PM joelgelman via <joelgelman= [email protected]> wrote: The pipe is thinner and lighter than standard PVC, and with 2 inch OD.? Options considered included having holes made with a Forstner bit along the length of each arm to decrease weight while maintaining rigidity and integrity to avoid sag-twist.? Another option considered was having just the 1 upper tube for the vac hose and have the power cords housed under that within the arms where they could then be threaded through a bit of flex hose at the articulation to guide them and prevent pinching.
For the "wood version" with the wider angled thrust bearings, we are considering top and bottom pieces of maple 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch thick, and how to make the area of the arms strong where they meet the center pivot section.? One option could be a little aluminum on the top bottom as reinforcement.? The idea for the "wood version" not to avoid aluminum, but to develop something that can be built in less time with less need for working with aluminum and precision bearing placement, yet have the same functionality and very adequate strength and durability.? That is mostly to benefit others wanting to make one, and that gets worked on when the hoses and more gears arrive. ?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Alex, at that point, I will have my boom arm, but as I indicated, part of what I am pursuing with time and some expense involved, ?is to make it so others can easily make one as I think this would be of high value to many. ?
Once the extra gears arrive, I will be making a prototype using the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearings. ?I think the way I will make this is easier in wood than aluminum, but I was just asking Randy yesterday: ?If you take the issues of working with aluminum out of the equation or money or time, which way of making it would be the best in terms of durability etc.? ?We are not so sure.?How about this: ? before anything is taken for a quote. ?How about we wait a week. ?I should get the gears and will then assemble a pivot section. ?Then, I (and likely Randy also) can post both designs with detailed pictures. ?Then, the Brian Lambs and David Bests of the forum can hopefully weigh in with input as to what would be the best design, or perhaps suggest a modification of what we did to make it better! ?
With CNC, either could be made very easily and so it is a matter of which design to pursue. ? If there is someone that would be interested in making parts for a group purchase, great!, I believe there may also be a lot of people on the Festool forum interested in purchasing that middle pivot section as with that and the detailed plans I would provide for free along with a parts list, there could be a lot of orders. ?For myself, I have no financial interest. ?
|
the purpose of all this effort, is so that once we have the boom arm made, kinks worked out, and detailed drawings all made up and all the parts linked where you buy them, is like Joel said, so anyone who wants one can just click and buy some of the parts, cut the wood parts needed and assemble and Voila...a perfectly good, working boom arm for themselves and their shop
On Sunday, May 24, 2020, 05:19:30 PM PDT, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
Alex, at that point, I will have my boom arm, but as I indicated, part of what I am pursuing with time and some expense involved, ?is to make it so others can easily make one as I think this would be of high value to many. ?
Once the extra gears arrive, I will be making a prototype using the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearings. ?I think the way I will make this is easier in wood than aluminum, but I was just asking Randy yesterday: ?If you take the issues of working with aluminum out of the equation or money or time, which way of making it would be the best in terms of durability etc.? ?We are not so sure.?How about this: ? before anything is taken for a quote. ?How about we wait a week. ?I should get the gears and will then assemble a pivot section. ?Then, I (and likely Randy also) can post both designs with detailed pictures. ?Then, the Brian Lambs and David Bests of the forum can hopefully weigh in with input as to what would be the best design, or perhaps suggest a modification of what we did to make it better! ?
With CNC, either could be made very easily and so it is a matter of which design to pursue. ? If there is someone that would be interested in making parts for a group purchase, great!, I believe there may also be a lot of people on the Festool forum interested in purchasing that middle pivot section as with that and the detailed plans I would provide for free along with a parts list, there could be a lot of orders. ?For myself, I have no financial interest. ?
|
I have a funny feeling the Mad scientists ( Yes.. YOU..David Best and Brian Lamb and maybe even Mac) are already concocting something deep down in their machining lab as we speak)?
On Monday, May 25, 2020, 06:36:15 AM PDT, Randall Child <strongman_one@...> wrote:
the purpose of all this effort, is so that once we have the boom arm made, kinks worked out, and detailed drawings all made up and all the parts linked where you buy them, is like Joel said, so anyone who wants one can just click and buy some of the parts, cut the wood parts needed and assemble and Voila...a perfectly good, working boom arm for themselves and their shop
On Sunday, May 24, 2020, 05:19:30 PM PDT, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
Alex, at that point, I will have my boom arm, but as I indicated, part of what I am pursuing with time and some expense involved, ?is to make it so others can easily make one as I think this would be of high value to many. ?
Once the extra gears arrive, I will be making a prototype using the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearings. ?I think the way I will make this is easier in wood than aluminum, but I was just asking Randy yesterday: ?If you take the issues of working with aluminum out of the equation or money or time, which way of making it would be the best in terms of durability etc.? ?We are not so sure.?How about this: ? before anything is taken for a quote. ?How about we wait a week. ?I should get the gears and will then assemble a pivot section. ?Then, I (and likely Randy also) can post both designs with detailed pictures. ?Then, the Brian Lambs and David Bests of the forum can hopefully weigh in with input as to what would be the best design, or perhaps suggest a modification of what we did to make it better! ?
With CNC, either could be made very easily and so it is a matter of which design to pursue. ? If there is someone that would be interested in making parts for a group purchase, great!, I believe there may also be a lot of people on the Festool forum interested in purchasing that middle pivot section as with that and the detailed plans I would provide for free along with a parts list, there could be a lot of orders. ?For myself, I have no financial interest. ?
|
I could easily get that taken care of if there is a one time buy type of thing…. my son is always looking for work for his CNC mill.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a funny feeling the Mad scientists ( Yes.. YOU..David Best and Brian Lamb and maybe even Mac) are already concocting something deep down in their machining lab as we speak)?
the purpose of all this effort, is so that once we have the boom arm made, kinks worked out, and detailed drawings all made up and all the parts linked where you buy them, is like Joel said, so anyone who wants one can just click and buy some of the parts, cut the wood parts needed and assemble and Voila...a perfectly good, working boom arm for themselves and their shop
On Sunday, May 24, 2020, 05:19:30 PM PDT, joelgelman via < joelgelman@...> wrote:
Alex, at that point, I will have my boom arm, but as I indicated, part of what I am pursuing with time and some expense involved, ?is to make it so others can easily make one as I think this would be of high value to many. ?
Once the extra gears arrive, I will be making a prototype using the 2 inch OD angled thrust bearings. ?I think the way I will make this is easier in wood than aluminum, but I was just asking Randy yesterday: ?If you take the issues of working with aluminum out of the equation or money or time, which way of making it would be the best in terms of durability etc.? ?We are not so sure.?How about this: ? before anything is taken for a quote. ?How about we wait a week. ?I should get the gears and will then assemble a pivot section. ?Then, I (and likely Randy also) can post both designs with detailed pictures. ?Then, the Brian Lambs and David Bests of the forum can hopefully weigh in with input as to what would be the best design, or perhaps suggest a modification of what we did to make it better! ?
With CNC, either could be made very easily and so it is a matter of which design to pursue. ? If there is someone that would be interested in making parts for a group purchase, great!, I believe there may also be a lot of people on the Festool forum interested in purchasing that middle pivot section as with that and the detailed plans I would provide for free along with a parts list, there could be a lot of orders. ?For myself, I have no financial interest. ?
|
I experimented using wood instead of aluminum for the middle pivot point. ?It was very to make and took very little time. ?The hard part was first figuring out how to make it and what parts to get. ?Enclosed are pictures. ?I took some 3/4 plywood and made 2 arms 6x3 inches to attach to the middle pivot to test it. ?Connected to the end of each arm are 1 inch thick maple, 14 inches long and 3 inches wide with 1 end rounded. ?The top and bottom plates are 1 inch thick maple 9x5.5 inches with the corners chamfered. ?It was that and the hardware.
The hardware was the aluminum gears (10mm bore), and the tapered thrust bearings (OD 2 inches)
Also, I had 12 inch long 3/8 hex bolts from Ace (and washers and nuts), some M10 bolts and lock nuts and washers, and some aluminum sleeves. ?I just found a nice option from Home Depot (1/2 inch aluminum round tube that comes in 36 inch lengths).
Assembly was very easy. ?I started by drilling holes in the top and bottom plates using the meshed gears to determine the proper distance between the holes. ?There is a hole around 1/4 inch deep make with a 2 inch Forstner bit and then a through hole for the 10mm bolt in the center (can be make with 25/64 or 13/32 drill bits). ?With one hole done, 1 gear can be centered over the hole using a drill bit or a bolt, and with the gears meshed, you can mark the center of the other hole. ?I place d brad point drill bit and gently tap to mark the center. ?In the end, the top and bottom plates both have the 2 shallow 2 inch holes and the through hole in the middle. ?2 more holes are drilled into the top and bottom plates as shown for the stabilizer blots and sleeves.
Then, I take 2 of the 4 pieces of aluminum with the rounded end on 1 side with a hole drilled in the center as shown in the picture, and mount the gears. ?To do that, you drill 1-2 holes in the gear, center it along the hole using a bolt, and screw it in place. ?The 4 pieces of 3 inch wide maple are then screwed to the 6x3 arms. ?Now time to assemble
To assemble, the bearings are seated in the recess of the top and bottom plates and face the inside-middle. ?Then the plates are attached to the arms using the M10 bolts, washers and lock nuts. ?After that, you measure the distance between the bottom of the top plate and the top of the bottom plate and cut the round tubes to that length (or a bit shorter to make room for a washer above and below the tube. ?Then thread the 3/8 12 inch long bolt with the tubes and that will do it.
It was tested and held up well with 20lb barbell plates placed on 1 end. ?It swiveled nicely from 1 side to the other without too much resistance and without ever moving by itself. ?Seemed to have the right amount of damper but perhaps there is a modification to insure that is the case if I just got lucky.?
Anyhow, I think the Aluminum is way cooler and stronger. ?I would be curious what some of you think about the bearing options and what is the best design. ?For the aluminum middle section Randy made in aluminum, the bearings were seated in the top and bottom places. ?In my wood version, wider OD bearings were sandwiched between the arms and the plates. ?To do that in aluminum would be a bit tricky. ?I inquired and was told with a very slow speed and oil, with the work piece secured, I could use a 2 inch carbide forstner bit to drill those holes, but certainly someone with CNC would make a nicer middle section.
I think it is nice that people wanting a fully articulating boom arm to be able to easily make one out of wood and a few parts from Ace or Home depot and online sources. ?I also think it would be nice for people wanting a very nice milled middle section that is an upgrade from wood to be able to get this so they just make the arms and attach the middle section.
I am curious now that I finished the prototype in wood, if made by a CNC out of aluminum, what would be the best - bearing within the top and bottom plates, or a wider bearing as shown?
|
Some more pictures of the initial aluminum version in Randy's shop on the above thread. ?
|
You need to make the knuckle wider so the bolts don't pinch the hose at full bend.
=============== Brian Lamb blamb11@... Phoenix, AZ ===============
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I experimented using wood instead of aluminum for the middle pivot point. ?It was very to make and took very little time. ?The hard part was first figuring out how to make it and what parts to get. ?Enclosed are pictures. ?I took some 3/4 plywood and made
2 arms 6x3 inches to attach to the middle pivot to test it. ?Connected to the end of each arm are 1 inch thick maple, 14 inches long and 3 inches wide with 1 end rounded. ?The top and bottom plates are 1 inch thick maple 9x5.5 inches with the corners chamfered.
?It was that and the hardware.
The hardware was the aluminum gears (10mm bore), and the tapered thrust bearings (OD 2 inches)
Also, I had 12 inch long 3/8 hex bolts from Ace (and washers and nuts), some M10 bolts and lock nuts and washers, and some aluminum sleeves. ?I just found a nice option from Home Depot (1/2 inch aluminum round tube that comes in 36 inch lengths).
Assembly was very easy. ?I started by drilling holes in the top and bottom plates using the meshed gears to determine the proper distance between the holes. ?There is a hole around 1/4 inch deep make with a 2 inch Forstner bit and then a through hole for the
10mm bolt in the center (can be make with 25/64 or 13/32 drill bits). ?With one hole done, 1 gear can be centered over the hole using a drill bit or a bolt, and with the gears meshed, you can mark the center of the other hole. ?I place d brad point drill bit
and gently tap to mark the center. ?In the end, the top and bottom plates both have the 2 shallow 2 inch holes and the through hole in the middle. ?2 more holes are drilled into the top and bottom plates as shown for the stabilizer blots and sleeves.
Then, I take 2 of the 4 pieces of aluminum with the rounded end on 1 side with a hole drilled in the center as shown in the picture, and mount the gears. ?To do that, you drill 1-2 holes in the gear, center it along the hole using a bolt, and screw it in place.
?The 4 pieces of 3 inch wide maple are then screwed to the 6x3 arms. ?Now time to assemble
To assemble, the bearings are seated in the recess of the top and bottom plates and face the inside-middle. ?Then the plates are attached to the arms using the M10 bolts, washers and lock nuts. ?After that, you measure the distance between the bottom of the
top plate and the top of the bottom plate and cut the round tubes to that length (or a bit shorter to make room for a washer above and below the tube. ?Then thread the 3/8 12 inch long bolt with the tubes and that will do it.
It was tested and held up well with 20lb barbell plates placed on 1 end. ?It swiveled nicely from 1 side to the other without too much resistance and without ever moving by itself. ?Seemed to have the right amount of damper but perhaps there is a modification
to insure that is the case if I just got lucky.?
Anyhow, I think the Aluminum is way cooler and stronger. ?I would be curious what some of you think about the bearing options and what is the best design. ?For the aluminum middle section Randy made in aluminum, the bearings were seated in the top and bottom
places. ?In my wood version, wider OD bearings were sandwiched between the arms and the plates. ?To do that in aluminum would be a bit tricky. ?I inquired and was told with a very slow speed and oil, with the work piece secured, I could use a 2 inch carbide
forstner bit to drill those holes, but certainly someone with CNC would make a nicer middle section.
I think it is nice that people wanting a fully articulating boom arm to be able to easily make one out of wood and a few parts from Ace or Home depot and online sources. ?I also think it would be nice for people wanting a very nice milled middle section that
is an upgrade from wood to be able to get this so they just make the arms and attach the middle section.
I am curious now that I finished the prototype in wood, if made by a CNC out of aluminum, what would be the best - bearing within the top and bottom plates, or a wider bearing as shown?
-- Brian Lamb blamb11@...? ?
|
The knuckle using wood is wider than what Randy made with aluminum. ?I did not yet see how the hose would work with the wood version yet. ?That is next as I will make "real" arms with pipe and hose now that I have the knuckle worked out. ?In addition to the wood version having a wider knuckle, I extended the top and bottom pieces out farther and that gives more room for the hose. ?In Randy's version if you will note, the gears are cut. ?I was planning to not only have the arms back a bit farther on the extensions that attach to the top plates, but also notch out a little on 1 side of each arm (as shown in the black lines) so the flex hose can be a bit longer so that ?the flex and compression will not be over such a short distance. ?Once I try that out, I will see if I need wider top-bottom plates.
Any thoughts from anyone on the 2 options for the bearings?
|
imran
