? ? ?? Good afternoon everyone. I am having an issue that I am not sure of the problem. The bandsaw is approx. 1 1/2 years old. Hobby use only. No issues until now. The problem is the lower tire will run off the wheel to the back side of the saw. It will do it without any load on it. When cutting the lower tire will come off towards the back of the machine and eventually the top tire will come off towards the front.I have checked tracking, blade location and coplaner. everything checks out fine. The only thing I am not sure of is how tight should the tires fit the wheel. ? ?
? ? ? ? ? ? ?? I can move the tire on the wheel pretty easy and there is not any glue holding it on which it shouldn't be glued. How tight should the tire be on the wheel?
Any ideas or suggestions? ? ?

Thanks
Mark?

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Thanks Don. I have a call into tech support and also sent an email. Just waiting for them to get back to me.

Mark?

Well as it turns out something I read on the internet was true. I just heard back from tech support. Some FB510's In 2019 were made with too large of a tire. Felder is sending me 2 new tires. Problem solved. Thanks for the suggestions and help.

Mark

? ? ?The tire problem is back. I installed the new tires from Felder. They were much tighter than the originals. Very little use since then. Beginning of December the tires came off. Top and bottom. sent e-mail to Felder support. Received a prompt response. They are sending new tires again and said the recommend? all tires to be glued on.?
? ? ? They recommend a 3m contact adhesive. What is the best way to get the tires on using contact adhesive? I do not want to fight the tires bonding. Any good suggestions.
?

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Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406

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Ben Rock pleasant machinery has a clever way of spreading the glue , he has a short video on his Instagram account but I was not able to copy it . Ratchet with socket advances the gap around the tire.

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Mac beat me to it, i just saw that somewhere maybe look on there ig account- it was pretty nifty!

So the tires showed up today. Quick trip from Austria. I looked at the video showing the ratchet. interesting idea but I do not think that will work for me. according to Felder I am supposed to spread a thin layer of? adhesive onto the tire and wheel then install the tire. I did not think that would work with contact adhesive. So i researched the 3M adhesive and you can use it in a "wet bond" application. essentially you don't let it completely dry like a standard contact adhesive.?
? ? So working quickly I spread the adhesive and while still slightly wet installed the tires. It was a bit challenging but I was still able to adjust positioning of the tire before it was dry. Only time will tell if this solution solves the problem.

Mark

Hi all:

I bought an FB510 in 2019 and ran into the 'loose tire' problem just a few weeks ago. ?Felder was great - I sent an email on a Sunday night and they had the tires in the mail Monday morning. ?Getting them on with the adhesive (which Ron out in Delaware advised should really be optional, well fit tires should stay on without any adhesive) was a bear, but eventually I got it worked out. ?Because I had everything broken down and the bed removed, I wanted to deal with a few things that I'd been annoyed with for a while.

The first was the lower ceramic guides - the one on the right side wouldn't quite snug up to the blade and remain parallel. ?I typically would just angle it a bit, so that the top ceramic guide was snug to the blade and the bottom ceramic guide was canted out a bit. ?I pulled it apart and found that it was pretty easy to re-adjust from the backside so that the C-block could be brought in closer. ?This involved removing the entire lower guide assembly, making the adjustment and then re-installing.

Next was the wheel adjustments. ?Because I had frequently run into the blade drifting on the wheel with smaller blades (even after hand spinning and setting the tracking), I suspected the lower wheel needed adjustment. ?A Felder service manual showed a process where the lower wheel is adjusted to be parallel to the inside of the frame. ?I was surprised to find the lower wheel was about 1/8" closer on the bottom than on the top. ?I adjusted the wheel to bring it parallel to the frame by using the Allen adjustment screws on the backside of the saw. ?I'm glad I marked the factory set positions on these before moving them! ?I adjusted the wheel to get it within a few thousandths parallel to the back frame and literally could not get a blade to track. ?The upper tire had to be run way out of whack to even keep it close, and at that point, the blade was on the backside of the upper wheel and the frontside of the lower wheel. ?As I re-adjusted back to the previous set points, it got easier to keep the blade tracking. All right, scratch the service manual advice!

At that point, I started looking a whether the two wheels were roughly planer. ?Given that the upper wheel is adjustable, obviously getting them in the exact same plane is questionable. ?But still, I found that as I brought the lower wheel closer to the factory settings, I could adjust the upper blade tilt to where the upper and lower wheels were pretty close to being in the same plane. ?I did this fairly crudely, by jointing a flat face onto some dimensional lumber and notching it in two spots for the frame. ?I could clamp this to the saw in two locations and see where I was making contact with the wheel and where there was a gap. ?I kept a 6mm blade on with tension while doing all of this. ?I would make an adjustment to the lower wheel, manually adjust with hand spinning to get it tracking, then pull all the gear free, button it up and fire the saw up to see if it would continue tracking. ?Eventually I found the sweet spot which was just a bit past (~1/8 turn on the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock screws) the factory setting, in the direction that put the lower wheel even a little further out of parallel with the lower frame. ?Go figure.

Finally, the hard part: the upper guide assembly was out of plane with the bed. ?This means that both of the upper ceramic guides could not be set tight to the teeth. ?Here's a sketch (exaggerated) of the problem:


It really wasn't obvious how to fix this, so I had to sequentially disassemble the upper guide until I could figure it out. ?I realized the source when I got to this stage:


After a bit of disassembly/reassembly, I found that the pitch was adjusted by loosening BOTH the four bolts on the top of this bracket (two on each side of the guide, holding some flat stock against the rectangular stock) AND the bolt on the back of the assembly that holds the guide collar onto the shaft. ?You can see the two bolts on the left side and the bolt for the collar assembly in this picture. ?The three bolts that are lowest and centered in the photo are the ones I'm talking about.

It was easiest to do this by adjusting the shaft height to match my dial gauge block (although any uniform guide block would work), loosening all five of the bolts getting the guide assembly to rest squarely on my block. ?This needs to be adjusted to be both square to the table AND perpendicular to the blade.

Before:


After:


At that point, I reassembled everything else and actually got back to making sawdust. ?What a treat!

Overall, I'm still pretty happy with the saw, but I'm not so thrilled with the documentation. ?It's clear that shipping these are going to result in some stuff being knocked out of kilter. ?Some of my problems, however, really look like they date back to the factory failings. ?Even that's understandable, but it should not be so difficult to collate info to allow the end user to make these adjustments without having to reinvent the wheel or call technical services every time. ?I hope something in here will help someone!

Best regards,

-t

I took delivery of my FB510 in November 2018 and had the tire problem. They were so loose that the blade and tire fell off after only a few seconds. Felder acknowledged the problem and quickly sent new tires. They were very tight but once on they've stayed there with no further problems. They were so tight that putting them on was nearly impossible. I tried every technique I'd ever used on my 14" or could find online but in the end it just took brute hand strength. I must be missing something, anybody have a trick for getting them on??

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Regarding heating the tires, I did some research prior to applying crowned urethane tires on my little 14" bandsaw, and the feedback from the manufacturer was that it was ok to "warm" the tires, but that overheating the urethane tires would change their physical properties and make them less stretchy and would ultimately fail over time.

The advice regarding water temperature from the manufacturer was: "If the water is too hot to put your hand in it, it's too hot for the tire...."?

--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

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--
Mike D.
Annapolis, MD
AD951; K700S; N4400

I used Felder's rec. to put get half of the tire on and use zip ties to hold it, but the only way I could finish it off was by using two or three screwdrivers to pry it on. ?Even with the zip ties, the tire would slip around the wheel, so I also put a pair of QR clamps on the wheel to help. You can imagine the cluster that was - a screwdriver in each hand, a third held under my chin while trying to work the other two around the wheel. ?It probably wouldn't be so bad with a helper. ?I did it once on my 14" bandsaw, and it was pretty easy if you took the wheels off and clamped them up. ?I didn't have snap ring pliers big enough for the FB510 wheels, so I just muscled it in place - barely!

There is speculation that the tires may have degraded because of heat - indeed, I started having problems after the 117F heat wave we had up here this summer. ?

-t