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Bandsaw blades - lesson learned


 

This wasn’t on a felder bandsaw but the lesson is applicable.

I’ve had a Jet 5HP 20” bandsaw for 7 years and purchased a 1 1/4” Laguna Resaw King blade for it about 6 years ago. I’ve done a lot of rough wood ripping with it and only a little resawing but it has worked great. I’ve started a project to build fourty spiral stair treads for a building on my property. These will be about 45” long and tapering from 14” to 11”. Every one has been templated as they vary slightly in size. They need to be 2 1/4 to 2 1/2” thick.

I decided to laminate 2 pieces of composite floor underlayment (AdvanTech) and then wrap it in resawn bookmatched white oak on top/bottom with solid leading and trailing edgees. (The ends are hidden by the steel.) So I have to do a lot of resawing. I bought a new blade, same size and model, and sent off the old one for resharpening. I spent about 8 hours in total working to get the new blade to cut straight. What a frustrating experience! It would veer to the outside immediately and even make a bowed cut. Feels like I have watched now every video on youtube about bandsaws and tried every variation of tracking, tension, fences, etc. with no improvements. On the positive side, I learned how to tune up the saw very well.

Finally I reached out to Laguna and after a few weeks they agreed to replace the blade. I just put the new one on, set up the bearings and the cut is so flat it’s like I ran it through the jointer.

So - it may not be your saw… it could be your blade!

Regards,
Michael


 

I wouldn't expect any blade to perform well on most any modern bandsaw design,
and it will never cease to amaze me how most folks expect any different.

That's my opinion, from someone who's worked on an old and abused machine.




I could mention alignment of the motor is not something which can be ignored,
that is... if accurately aligning the lower wheel to the upper wheel.


So you can understand my cynical thoughts on the matter, not to say your new blade wasn't a lemon,
just anything to do with setup, that being down to the particular saw IMO, and should the Italian's have kept up
making fully adjustable bandsaws, then everyone would be in agreement on most things by now.
i.e there would be nothing really to speculate on (bar perhaps tire condition) in this case,
and you might not have bothered fighting with the saw in order to get it to cut.

Just saying, as it seems everyone who mentions a troublesome modern saw, ultimately ends up either going with carbide blades, or indeed upgrading to ol'irn.

Just my thoughts
All the best
Tom




 

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Is?Laguna LT16SEC 2.5HP 12” Resaw (made by Meber) from 2001 a modern saw?

This was the first cut after installing resaw king. It is a 2x8 SPF scrap but I was so impressed (probable easy to be impressed as I had never resaw before) that I kept it in my office.

image0.jpeg

Raking light to show the blade marks

image1.jpeg

Imran Malik

On Jun 29, 2024, at 8:24?PM, Tom Trees via groups.io <tomgwoodworks@...> wrote:

?I wouldn't expect any blade to perform well on most any modern bandsaw design,
and it will never cease to amaze me how most folks expect any different.

That's my opinion, from someone who's worked on an old and abused machine.
<SAM_7609.JPG>

<SAM_6861.JPG>


<SAM_6860.JPG>
<The right shim.jpg>

I could mention alignment of the motor is not something which can be ignored,
that is... if accurately aligning the lower wheel to the upper wheel.
<SAM_4548.JPG>


So you can understand my cynical thoughts on the matter, not to say your new blade wasn't a lemon,
just anything to do with setup, that being down to the particular saw IMO, and should the Italian's have kept up
making fully adjustable bandsaws, then everyone would be in agreement on most things by now.
i.e there would be nothing really to speculate on (bar perhaps tire condition) in this case,
and you might not have bothered fighting with the saw in order to get it to cut.

Just saying, as it seems everyone who mentions a troublesome modern saw, ultimately ends up either going with carbide blades, or indeed upgrading to ol'irn.

Just my thoughts
All the best
Tom




 

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Tom, all three of these blades were carbide tipped and the exact same make and model. This bandsaw has always cut well in the past. The 2nd blade was a lemon as best I can tell.?


On Jun 29, 2024, at 8:24?PM, Tom Trees via groups.io <tomgwoodworks@...> wrote:

?I wouldn't expect any blade to perform well on most any modern bandsaw design,
and it will never cease to amaze me how most folks expect any different.

That's my opinion, from someone who's worked on an old and abused machine.
<SAM_7609.JPG>

<SAM_6861.JPG>


<SAM_6860.JPG>
<The right shim.jpg>

I could mention alignment of the motor is not something which can be ignored,
that is... if accurately aligning the lower wheel to the upper wheel.
<SAM_4548.JPG>


So you can understand my cynical thoughts on the matter, not to say your new blade wasn't a lemon,
just anything to do with setup, that being down to the particular saw IMO, and should the Italian's have kept up
making fully adjustable bandsaws, then everyone would be in agreement on most things by now.
i.e there would be nothing really to speculate on (bar perhaps tire condition) in this case,
and you might not have bothered fighting with the saw in order to get it to cut.

Just saying, as it seems everyone who mentions a troublesome modern saw, ultimately ends up either going with carbide blades, or indeed upgrading to ol'irn.

Just my thoughts
All the best
Tom




 

My reaction to my SCM (made in Italy) saw was the same as Imran’s reaction to his Laguna. I had no idea a bandsaw could cut like that.

I have a 1” Resaw King on the saw. I have a 3/8” steel blade, but I suspect I may never use it.

Maybe I would be even more impressed with “old iron”, but I have absolutely no interest in rebuilding some old machine.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


 

On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 05:53 PM, imranindiana wrote:
Is?Laguna LT16SEC 2.5HP 12” Resaw (made by Meber) from 2001 a modern saw?
?

Imran Malik


Only you can answer that, and whether it would be taken up as philosophical question about longevity,
and the unknown...
or indeed a concerned one, is up to you.
If the latter, then the only way to say that a non adjustable wheel could be, would mean demonstrating everything lines up.
well...at least on your saw anyway.



That particular Meber p400...

From what it looks to me, I'd consider it an outdated design like what was on the old Centauro NL, what became the CO...



Or the old ACM BS 540, (this one being from 1983!)
Both updated with a hub for the lower wheel shaft after those models.


Perhaps "modern" might be the wrong word here...
Should someone point out a more suitable word, then that should be used,
as in my mind I'm finding that a tad difficult, to call it premium or similar,
when Centauro, Meber and Sagittario were making some fully adjustable models in the past.


I could post a more modern version of the likes, but seems they've switched over to making non fully adjustable machines aswell! Go figure?.. as they say.

All the best
Tom


?
?


 

I wonder how many dud blades got sent out, or if that was a one off kinda thing, as seemingly there wasn't a
strikingly evident issue there,
so perhaps this might be mentioned in the coming weeks or months if the former.
I suppose there would be way too many other variables at play to come to such a conclusion really...
and we won't hear of any issues with things like that.
I'd certainly hope not, and doubt it, not at the cost of those evidently excellent blades,
such instances would be mentioned before,
especially since most often the only ones who post resawing results, are those using carbide,
so this surely would have cropped up on a few bandsaw threads before.

Not that I have searched, as I'm too skint for such toolery.
All the best

Tom






 

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On the lower cost side I have heard a lot of good things about wood slicer blades. I really need to order and check one out.


Imran Malik

On Jun 29, 2024, at 10:31?PM, Tom Trees via groups.io <tomgwoodworks@...> wrote:

?I wonder how many dud blades got sent out, or if that was a one off kinda thing, as seemingly there wasn't a
strikingly evident issue there,
so perhaps this might be mentioned in the coming weeks or months if the former.
I suppose there would be way too many other variables at play to come to such a conclusion really...
and we won't hear of any issues with things like that.
I'd certainly hope not, and doubt it, not at the cost of those evidently excellent blades,
such instances would be mentioned before,
especially since most often the only ones who post resawing results, are those using carbide,
so this surely would have cropped up on a few bandsaw threads before.

Not that I have searched, as I'm too skint for such toolery.
All the best

Tom






 

I’ve seen a batch of 5 carbide blades that were defective, the manufacturer took them back, replaced them, problem solved.

Rule #1 for band saws,?

1) when sawing problems arise, replace the blade as first course of action.

Regards, Rod


 

Hi everyone,

New member here.

I've been operating woodworking equipment for about 60 years (and boy am I getting tired - ba dum bum! ?)

I've had a Grizzly 17" 2hp bandsaw for the last 10 years. I think I know how to adjust bandsaws. The first blades I put on the machine were Timber Wolf. Usually a 1/2" 3 tpi skip tooth. I was never happy with the cut. Good but never really good. I tried many other brands with some better results but not consistent. Never any drift, but never really high-quality cuts.

Then I switched to Wood Slicers 5 years ago. I almost always have a 3/4" 3 tpi blade on the machine. For almost everything. I can resaw or cut 1/16" veneer from any kind of wood. Perfectly straight, unvarying thickness. The surface of the cut almost looks like it came off the jointer. They last a long time. Unless they change their formula, I'll never use another brand.

Rich


 

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Hi Rich and welcome to the forum. I had a 17” Grizzly and a 24”. Then I sold those two and bought a FB510, used it a few days and returned it, then bought a Grizzly 21” with the electric brake. I think for a hobbyist that’s the sweet spot. I too agree that the wood slicer blades are great.

Bill Belanger?


On Jul 6, 2024, at 17:38, rsrosemd via groups.io <rsrosemd@...> wrote:

?Hi everyone,

New member here.

I've been operating woodworking equipment for about 60 years (and boy am I getting tired - ba dum bum! ?)

I've had a Grizzly 17" 2hp bandsaw for the last 10 years. I think I know how to adjust bandsaws. The first blades I put on the machine were Timber Wolf. Usually a 1/2" 3 tpi skip tooth. I was never happy with the cut. Good but never really good. I tried many other brands with some better results but not consistent. Never any drift, but never really high-quality cuts.

Then I switched to Wood Slicers 5 years ago. I almost always have a 3/4" 3 tpi blade on the machine. For almost everything. I can resaw or cut 1/16" veneer from any kind of wood. Perfectly straight, unvarying thickness. The surface of the cut almost looks like it came off the jointer. They last a long time. Unless they change their formula, I'll never use another brand.

Rich


 

I sliced 12 veneers at slightly over 1/16" from 5/4 bubinga last week with a 1/2" Wood slicer. The cut is probably good enough to glue down. I know carbide is good, but for the thicker kerf and 3x cost I will stick with these. They are fantastic.

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


 

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Greetings;
Bock thought I would share a few things. I have a rapid 640 which is a ACM I believe and I mounted comic basic feeder.
I find it annoying that I could only rip fairly narrow stuff maybe 5 inch wide so I built a table that mounts very rigid to the corner of the cast table. This allows me to mount the fee feeder in its correct position or can be moved out to about 10 inches away from the blade with the listening of one bolt just slide it back, proving to be quite handy.
I also got it out the electrics on the side, which was kind of stupid. I couldn’t work anything from the operator side of the side without a lot of screwing around so I set it up so I have start stop switch in the corner by the operator disconnect disconnect is at the front of the machine instead of the back of it, the power feeder is powered up to the saw so the feeder runs with the saw I also wired it up a nice LED light which also runs when the saw is on.
Jason, I have some of those half-inch blades. I haven’t had a chance to use yet. There was a bunch of them came with a saw right now. I’ve got a few 1 inch carb that are on the machine at the moment but anxious to give whatever a try.

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 7, 2024, at 8:42?AM, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:

?
I sliced 12 veneers at slightly over 1/16" from 5/4 bubinga last week with a 1/2" Wood slicer. The cut is probably good enough to glue down. I know carbide is good, but for the thicker kerf and 3x cost I will stick with these. They are fantastic.

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


 

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Pictures help?IMG_4517IMG_4519

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 7, 2024, at 12:52?PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:

?Greetings;
Bock thought I would share a few things. I have a rapid 640 which is a ACM I believe and I mounted comic basic feeder.
I find it annoying that I could only rip fairly narrow stuff maybe 5 inch wide so I built a table that mounts very rigid to the corner of the cast table. This allows me to mount the fee feeder in its correct position or can be moved out to about 10 inches away from the blade with the listening of one bolt just slide it back, proving to be quite handy.
I also got it out the electrics on the side, which was kind of stupid. I couldn’t work anything from the operator side of the side without a lot of screwing around so I set it up so I have start stop switch in the corner by the operator disconnect disconnect is at the front of the machine instead of the back of it, the power feeder is powered up to the saw so the feeder runs with the saw I also wired it up a nice LED light which also runs when the saw is on.
Jason, I have some of those half-inch blades. I haven’t had a chance to use yet. There was a bunch of them came with a saw right now. I’ve got a few 1 inch carb that are on the machine at the moment but anxious to give whatever a try.

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 7, 2024, at 8:42?AM, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:

?
I sliced 12 veneers at slightly over 1/16" from 5/4 bubinga last week with a 1/2" Wood slicer. The cut is probably good enough to glue down. I know carbide is good, but for the thicker kerf and 3x cost I will stick with these. They are fantastic.

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


 

Nice setup Mac. Looks like it would be great for ripping. Maybe not so good for resawing? How tall is that wheel, like 3"?
Our belt type feeder is only 6" high and it struggles a bit when resawing wider material also.?

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


 

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Hi Jason, what I do most of is rip up cants that are basically 4 x 4 and the feeder works beautifully for that. I think the wheels are probably 3 1/2 inches tall ?works quite well.
If I do any woodworking, it’s mostly 98% solid wood very rarely do I ever need any veneer work? Just not my thing I do windows and doors mostly and architectural details. That’s when I get a chance which is pretty damn rare.
Mac,,




martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Jul 8, 2024, at 8:32?AM, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:

?
Nice setup Mac. Looks like it would be great for ripping. Maybe not so good for resawing? How tall is that wheel, like 3"?
Our belt type feeder is only 6" high and it struggles a bit when resawing wider material also.?

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406