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Alright, here's a potentially strange question: Are there any strong opinions or sage insights regarding wax paper?
My intended use would include the following:
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing glue-ups and epoxy work
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing painting/finishing tasks
-- Placing in between project parts that are ostensibly "dry", but perhaps still somewhat "green" and not fully cured
-- Wrapping flat objects for transport (cabinet doors, storm doors, storm windows, etc...)
The top on the FAT500S is ~46" x 82", so my sense would be to order a 48" wide roll. I'm trying to not be precious about the top, but I'd also like to avoid spending time sanding/scraping glue/epoxy and finish/paint drips off the surface.?
Going to the usual suspects, Uline and McMaster-Carr both offer waxed paper rolls.
? ? ?-- The Uline product is listed as 30lb Kraft paper with a wax coating on both sides, bringing it to a total 43lb weight. The product is only available in 1500 ft rolls that weigh 225 lbs (oof!)??
? ? ?-- McMaster-Carr offers the waxed paper in much more manageable 500 ft rolls, in two flavors:??
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Coated", ?4.5 mil, $125 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as potentially leaving a wax residue on objects it touches.?
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Embedded", 3.5 mil, $110 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as not leaving a wax residue on surfaces it would touch.?
My sense is to go with the "Wax Coated" 500 ft roll from McMcaster-Carr, but I'm terribly curious to hear if there are any strong opinions out there relating to wax paper, or if there are alternative products I should consider (butcher paper?). Any input would be appreciated.?
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Whelp, at work I bought some of the McMaster wax paper for 3d prints that we dipped in a tub of Cyanoacrylate to seal them, we would dip them then rest them on ply plates with screws on top of the paper to keep it from dripping on everything.?
Not sure which version I bought but can check when I am back at work next week, so doesn’t help you now but can tell you that it would be more than adequate for your use. I wouldn’t buy anything from uline…
I have been using builders paper mostly because I got it at the thrift store for a $1, it’s cheap and works good enough for the glue drips
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On Dec 30, 2021, at 8:15 PM, tom@... wrote:
?Alright, here's a potentially strange question: Are there any strong opinions or sage insights regarding wax paper?
My intended use would include the following:
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing glue-ups and epoxy work
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing painting/finishing tasks
-- Placing in between project parts that are ostensibly "dry", but perhaps still somewhat "green" and not fully cured
-- Wrapping flat objects for transport (cabinet doors, storm doors, storm windows, etc...)
The top on the FAT500S is ~46" x 82", so my sense would be to order a 48" wide roll. I'm trying to not be precious about the top, but I'd also like to avoid spending time sanding/scraping glue/epoxy and finish/paint drips off the surface.?
Going to the usual suspects, Uline and McMaster-Carr both offer waxed paper rolls.
? ? ?-- The Uline product is listed as 30lb Kraft paper with a wax coating on both sides, bringing it to a total 43lb weight. The product is only available in 1500 ft rolls that weigh 225 lbs (oof!)??
? ? ?-- McMaster-Carr offers the waxed paper in much more manageable 500 ft rolls, in two flavors:??
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Coated", ?4.5 mil, $125 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as potentially leaving a wax residue on objects it touches.?
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Embedded", 3.5 mil, $110 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as not leaving a wax residue on surfaces it would touch.?
My sense is to go with the "Wax Coated" 500 ft roll from McMcaster-Carr, but I'm terribly curious to hear if there are any strong opinions out there relating to wax paper, or if there are alternative products I should consider (butcher paper?). Any input would be appreciated.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Been there, tried it. The best wax paper is whatever is on sale and a great barrier and use it frequently but never had good luck protecting table tops. Instead I recommend using 1/8" hardboard, 1/8" or 3mm or 5mm flooring underlayment, or corrugated cardboard. The board products have strength, cushion, and abrasion resistance and generally will stay put. I always tore any kind of paper product in normal sliding and tool shuffling.?
If you want to go superstar for glueup pads, silicone mats are reusable and indestructible, but often not easy to find in sizes to fit certain tops. Last ones I bought it took 2 to cover the full surface of a festool mft/3 table.
Otherwise I've found regular cheapo kraft paper is great for everything not prone to tearing, with white paper masking tape as a supplement in critical zones or stitching pieces together. Shooting a little bit of aerosol shellac or lacquer does wonders also in places you think moisture might overcome the fibers or reusing the same spots and popping dried glue off.
On Thu, Dec 30, 2021, 7:15 PM < tom@...> wrote: Alright, here's a potentially strange question: Are there any strong opinions or sage insights regarding wax paper?
My intended use would include the following:
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing glue-ups and epoxy work
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing painting/finishing tasks
-- Placing in between project parts that are ostensibly "dry", but perhaps still somewhat "green" and not fully cured
-- Wrapping flat objects for transport (cabinet doors, storm doors, storm windows, etc...)
The top on the FAT500S is ~46" x 82", so my sense would be to order a 48" wide roll. I'm trying to not be precious about the top, but I'd also like to avoid spending time sanding/scraping glue/epoxy and finish/paint drips off the surface.?
Going to the usual suspects, Uline and McMaster-Carr both offer waxed paper rolls.
? ? ?-- The Uline product is listed as 30lb Kraft paper with a wax coating on both sides, bringing it to a total 43lb weight. The product is only available in 1500 ft rolls that weigh 225 lbs (oof!)??
? ? ?-- McMaster-Carr offers the waxed paper in much more manageable 500 ft rolls, in two flavors:??
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Coated", ?4.5 mil, $125 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as potentially leaving a wax residue on objects it touches.?
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Embedded", 3.5 mil, $110 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as not leaving a wax residue on surfaces it would touch.?
My sense is to go with the "Wax Coated" 500 ft roll from McMcaster-Carr, but I'm terribly curious to hear if there are any strong opinions out there relating to wax paper, or if there are alternative products I should consider (butcher paper?). Any input would be appreciated.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
I use Mylar drafting film. It is durable, waterproof, and lays flat on a bench or table.
I’ve no idea where to get it or what it costs, as after decades as an engineer I have a lot of leftover material.?
It is available in big rolls for plotters.
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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I've been very happy with the 48" roll of freezer paper from Uline, ( Freezer Paper Roll - 48" x 1,100' S-15678 - Uline ) it has a polyethylene coating on one side instead of wax. It's very non-stick and water/finish resistant, and no risk of contaminating any finish with wax. It's also more durable than wax paper, we often reuse it until it's too dirty and then use it on the floor under glue-ups/finishing.
Rainger Pinney
860.798.3393
Whelp, at work I bought some of the McMaster wax paper for 3d prints that we dipped in a tub of Cyanoacrylate to seal them, we would dip them then rest them on ply plates with screws on top of the paper to keep it from dripping on everything.?
Not sure which version I bought but can check when I am back at work next week, so doesn’t help you now but can tell you that it would be more than adequate for your use. I wouldn’t buy anything from uline…
I have been using builders paper mostly because I got it at the thrift store for a $1, it’s cheap and works good enough for the glue drips
On Dec 30, 2021, at 8:15 PM, tom@... wrote:
?Alright, here's a potentially strange question: Are there any strong opinions or sage insights regarding wax paper?
My intended use would include the following:
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing glue-ups and epoxy work
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing painting/finishing tasks
-- Placing in between project parts that are ostensibly "dry", but perhaps still somewhat "green" and not fully cured
-- Wrapping flat objects for transport (cabinet doors, storm doors, storm windows, etc...)
The top on the FAT500S is ~46" x 82", so my sense would be to order a 48" wide roll. I'm trying to not be precious about the top, but I'd also like to avoid spending time sanding/scraping glue/epoxy and finish/paint drips off the surface.?
Going to the usual suspects, Uline and McMaster-Carr both offer waxed paper rolls.
? ? ?-- The Uline product is listed as 30lb Kraft paper with a wax coating on both sides, bringing it to a total 43lb weight. The product is only available in 1500 ft rolls that weigh 225 lbs (oof!)??
? ? ?-- McMaster-Carr offers the waxed paper in much more manageable 500 ft rolls, in two flavors:??
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Coated", ?4.5 mil, $125 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as potentially leaving a wax residue on objects it touches.?
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Embedded", 3.5 mil, $110 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as not leaving a wax residue on surfaces it would touch.?
My sense is to go with the "Wax Coated" 500 ft roll from McMcaster-Carr, but I'm terribly curious to hear if there are any strong opinions out there relating to wax paper, or if there are alternative products I should consider (butcher paper?). Any input would be appreciated.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Tom for nice top for layout table and work top I use tempered Masonite 1/4” 4x8 it last for decades, glue pops off, strong holds up great. When you wear out one side flip it over. ?Drill into it as backer pound on it when you have to. I have heavy craft paper 3’ rolls and recycled card board for painting and dirty stuff, I do have 2” wide rolls of wax paper white probably butcher paper for glue ups and ?I use painters tape for protection. Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Dec 30, 2021, at 8:29 PM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Been there, tried it. The best wax paper is whatever is on sale and a great barrier and use it frequently but never had good luck protecting table tops. Instead I recommend using 1/8" hardboard, 1/8" or 3mm or 5mm flooring underlayment, or corrugated cardboard. The board products have strength, cushion, and abrasion resistance and generally will stay put. I always tore any kind of paper product in normal sliding and tool shuffling.?
If you want to go superstar for glueup pads, silicone mats are reusable and indestructible, but often not easy to find in sizes to fit certain tops. Last ones I bought it took 2 to cover the full surface of a festool mft/3 table.
Otherwise I've found regular cheapo kraft paper is great for everything not prone to tearing, with white paper masking tape as a supplement in critical zones or stitching pieces together. Shooting a little bit of aerosol shellac or lacquer does wonders also in places you think moisture might overcome the fibers or reusing the same spots and popping dried glue off. On Thu, Dec 30, 2021, 7:15 PM < tom@...> wrote: Alright, here's a potentially strange question: Are there any strong opinions or sage insights regarding wax paper?
My intended use would include the following:
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing glue-ups and epoxy work
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing painting/finishing tasks
-- Placing in between project parts that are ostensibly "dry", but perhaps still somewhat "green" and not fully cured
-- Wrapping flat objects for transport (cabinet doors, storm doors, storm windows, etc...)
The top on the FAT500S is ~46" x 82", so my sense would be to order a 48" wide roll. I'm trying to not be precious about the top, but I'd also like to avoid spending time sanding/scraping glue/epoxy and finish/paint drips off the surface.?
Going to the usual suspects, Uline and McMaster-Carr both offer waxed paper rolls.
? ? ?-- The Uline product is listed as 30lb Kraft paper with a wax coating on both sides, bringing it to a total 43lb weight. The product is only available in 1500 ft rolls that weigh 225 lbs (oof!)??
? ? ?-- McMaster-Carr offers the waxed paper in much more manageable 500 ft rolls, in two flavors:??
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Coated", ?4.5 mil, $125 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as potentially leaving a wax residue on objects it touches.?
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Embedded", 3.5 mil, $110 for a 500 ft roll. Listed as not leaving a wax residue on surfaces it would touch.?
My sense is to go with the "Wax Coated" 500 ft roll from McMcaster-Carr, but I'm terribly curious to hear if there are any strong opinions out there relating to wax paper, or if there are alternative products I should consider (butcher paper?). Any input would be appreciated.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Thanks guys, this is all great info.?
Mark, no rush from my end, but yes I'd be interested to hear which version of wax paper you're using.?
Brett, good feedback and much appreciated. I agree that in certain applications a sheet of 1/8" hardboard would absolutely be appropriate. Storing 4x8 sheets is a bit problematic in my small shop, but I can see a scenario where I'd cut up a sheet into three pieces, then tape the joints together so it's a folding assembly, might come in handy. I had a look at silicone mats and, like you suggested, they're not an inexpensive option. That being said, it may be a nice option to look at long term....
John, thanks for the thought on the Mylar.?
Rainger, thanks for the thought on the freezer paper. I had considered what I'd call "butcher paper", this sounds similar.?
Years ago a general contractor friend and I received a mis-order of a goofy size of Tyvek house wrap. Normal Tyvek rolls are 9' long, and I think these were 10'. We tried returning them to the lumber yard but they didn't have a record of them, so we ended up with thousands of dollars of goofy sized Tyvek rolls for free, and really enjoyed using them over the following years for a variety of purposes, everything from floor protection (underneath 1/8" hardboard) to table protection to transportation protection. I finally burned up the last roll this past summer, thus the hunt for a suitable replacement. I appreciate the feedback you guys have provided, it gives me some good ideas and guidance going forward.?
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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I will lay paper for? glue ups. I buy those 36" wide rolls? of
brown craft paper from the BORG.? often I can get multiple uses
from? some of it.
I have tried a heavy wax coating. It works but I still have to
work to get the drips up. I wouldn't trust it to protect cast
iron.
On 12/30/21 8:15 PM,
tom@... wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Alright, here's a potentially strange question: Are there any
strong opinions or sage insights regarding wax paper?
My intended use would include the following:
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing glue-ups and
epoxy work
-- Protecting the top of my FAT500S when performing
painting/finishing tasks
-- Placing in between project parts that are ostensibly "dry", but
perhaps still somewhat "green" and not fully cured
-- Wrapping flat objects for transport (cabinet doors, storm
doors, storm windows, etc...)
The top on the FAT500S is ~46" x 82", so my sense would be to
order a 48" wide roll. I'm trying to not be precious about the
top, but I'd also like to avoid spending time sanding/scraping
glue/epoxy and finish/paint drips off the surface.?
Going to the usual suspects, Uline and McMaster-Carr both offer
waxed paper rolls.
? ? ?-- The Uline product is listed as 30lb Kraft paper with a wax
coating on both sides, bringing it to a total 43lb weight. The
product is only available in 1500 ft rolls that weigh 225 lbs
(oof!)??
? ? ?-- McMaster-Carr offers the waxed paper in much more
manageable 500 ft rolls, in two flavors:??
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Coated", ?4.5 mil, $125 for a 500 ft roll.
Listed as potentially leaving a wax residue on objects it
touches.?
? ? ? ? ? -- "Wax-Embedded", 3.5 mil, $110 for a 500 ft roll.
Listed as not leaving a wax residue on surfaces it would touch.?
My sense is to go with the "Wax Coated" 500 ft roll from
McMcaster-Carr, but I'm terribly curious to hear if there are any
strong opinions out there relating to wax paper, or if there are
alternative products I should consider (butcher paper?). Any input
would be appreciated.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
18” freezer paper from Target, shiny side up taped down with blue tape. You’ll need to splice a couple of pieces together with a strip of blue tape to cover the whole surface and prevent leaks through the gap. I’ve veneered table tops over freezer paper with Unbond 800 flowing out of all four edges like a spilled milkshake pooling on the freezer paper. No need to clean it up, it doesn’t leak through. I’ve poured epoxy the same way. For less liquid intensive applications like painting or spraying I use craft or rosin paper from Home Depot. All very inexpensive and easy to find. When you’re done with either, it goes in the trash and cleanup is done.?
?
You might consider saving the lift for moving stuff and other more interesting applications and do your glue ups on a torsion box. Easy and cheap to build out of ultralight mdf. I set mine on a couple of Krenov style sawhorses. The box is dead flat making it perfect for assembly and when you’re done with it just lean it against a wall and nest the sawhorses somewhere. But it’s so useful, you won’t want to put it away often. Because it’s cheap and easy there’s no need to be careful with it and if you ever really screw it up, just sand it smooth and glue on another piece of mdf or masonite, or make a new one. You didn’t say what you’re doing that requires the size of your cart. My box is 3” x 30” x 48” which is plenty for the furniture I make, more importantly it’s about the biggest I can get my arms around to pick up. But then you’ve got the lift cart so you could make it any size you want.?
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I'm with Mark on not giving Uline my money.?
We use brown craft paper for these types of protective uses. We get it at Litin Paper on Plymouth Ave. It's totally adequate for the purpose, it's recycled and recyclable. We even use it in the vacuum press for epoxy glue ups.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Tom Gensmer
Jason Holtz