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So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long.
I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top.
I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far.
Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle?
I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work?
Imran
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After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom.
Imran
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long.
I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top.
I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far.
Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle?
I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work?
Imran
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I wouldn’t bother going that deep for the mounting block - just enough to catch it with 2 screws from the top.
A 1” block standing proud of the wall mounted firmly would be plenty - the mantle is relying on the sheer strength/friction to the wall for the majority of its load in those dimensions.
Brian
Heisenberg Woodworking
Sent from a device with less than stellar autocorrect
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 12:16 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom.
Imran
On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long.
I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top.
I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far.
Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle?
I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work?
Imran
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If the board is truly 7.5" thick/tall I'd suggest looking into special brackets like??.?
Otherwise, a clever method if the situation makes sense is to cut? the back of the board a good 1-1.5" from the back edge, and use it to mount directly to the wall with recessed anchors. Then use dominoes in an array to push the rest of the board against the mounting slice, and the piece will be impossible for the next guy to figure out how you did it once the adhesive sets and the dominoes swell. If you dry fit the dominoes beforehand like you are supposed to, you can tweak the joint line to make invisible, which shouldn't be too tough on ash given grain orientation. Fun project!
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I did 3 mantels out of large white oak timbers for our new house.? On one I used a block as described by others and it sagged a bit.? I ended up redoing
that and for all three I did French cleats out of hardwood.? Once in place a thin trim screw keeps them there. I cut a recess in the back 1” deep and 3” wide for the cleat.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Brett Wissel
Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2021 9:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Mantle Build Question
?
If the board is truly 7.5" thick/tall I'd suggest looking into special brackets like??.?
Otherwise, a clever method if the situation makes sense is to cut? the back of the board a good 1-1.5" from the back edge, and use it to mount directly to the wall with recessed anchors. Then use dominoes in an array to push the rest of the board against the
mounting slice, and the piece will be impossible for the next guy to figure out how you did it once the adhesive sets and the dominoes swell. If you dry fit the dominoes beforehand like you are supposed to, you can tweak the joint line to make invisible, which
shouldn't be too tough on ash given grain orientation. Fun project!
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I just ran across these hangers, the smallest would work for you:
Just route a recess in the back of the mantle, screw these to the studs and drop it on.
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After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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Brett,
It seems that most brackets are meant for hollow shelfs/mantles where the size of the hollow can be controlled precisely.
I thought of similar approaches to your suggestion none as clever though ? The returns on each side would really make that really challenging. I am doing this as a favor and do need to limit my time as I have too many things that still need done.
I thought that we can saw off the live edge face followed by ripping thick boards from the top and bottom of the remaining log. Then recreate the log with hollow center. This likely will get rid of the most moist part of the log but there is no telling what would happen to the cut pieces once they are removed from the main log.
Imran
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 11:06 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ?If the board is truly 7.5" thick/tall I'd suggest looking into special brackets like??.?
Otherwise, a clever method if the situation makes sense is to cut? the back of the board a good 1-1.5" from the back edge, and use it to mount directly to the wall with recessed anchors. Then use dominoes in an array to push the rest of the board against the mounting slice, and the piece will be impossible for the next guy to figure out how you did it once the adhesive sets and the dominoes swell. If you dry fit the dominoes beforehand like you are supposed to, you can tweak the joint line to make invisible, which shouldn't be too tough on ash given grain orientation. Fun project!
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I just did this for a client in Bend OR - not live edge, but 8” thick with returns at the end in white rift-sawn Oak. ?We had a local fabricator make steel L-brackets that attached to the studs - 3 of them held together with flat bar in two places. ?The vertical members were 3/16" wall 1.5 x 1.5 square tube, mitered and projecting out from the wall. ?The verticals were drilled and through-bolted with carriage bolts to the studs about 2 feet long running upward from the CL of the mantle. ?This mantle projected 12” from the wall, and the L-brackets projected 10” total beyond the sheetrock. ?The GC used 2” augers to bore out for the L-brackets, and imbedded the entire mess in epoxy. ?It’s never coming down.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long.
I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top.
I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far.
Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle?
I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work?
Imran
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Tad,
Thanks, that is a nice option to consider. I had not seen this before. I do prefer to distribute the weight on all studs available but keep this option in mind.
Imran
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 12:57 PM, Tad Gallistel <tadg@...> wrote: ? I just ran across these hangers, the smallest would work for you:
Just route a recess in the back of the mantle, screw these to the studs and drop it on.
Tad
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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For what it’s worth, this is a lot of clamps, lots of “bouncing” load like 16” out.
2 cabinet mounting screws into the studs, 3/4” French cleat. ? ?Not sure what they’re doing on the mantle that would need more than that.
  Sent from a device with less than stellar autocorrect
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 12:22 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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David,
Thanks for the details. I guess if I were to do this, i will probably epoxy the brackets in the mantle and then bolt the verticals to the studs while keeping mantle level. This on account of my ability to free hand drill as required to do this right.
Imran
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:22 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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I've done similar shelf installation down and dirty with lag screws into the studs. Once driven, the heads were cut off, and holes bore in the back of the shelves with an auger bit. Squirt some PL adhesive in the holes and slide it on. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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A little math, and envisioning of the physics can also be useful.? Your mantle timber weighs about 130 pounds (2.8 cu ft x 45#/cu ft). Assuming studs on 16" centers, you'll have three studs to attach to, so each stud attachment point is carrying 43 lbs.? You can envision the attachment forces as hanging a 43 lbs weight at the center of gravity of the timber, like this drawing.? There are downward shearing forces on the cleat (blue), tension forces pulling outward on the screw (red), and compression forces pushing against the wall (yellow) It's probably intuitively obvious that these are not large forces and a simple french cleat is more than sufficient.??Also note that screws from the top into the cleat serve no purpose in Indiana (no earthquake there to lift the timber off the cleat, correct?)  ??
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The screws from the top stop the inevitable person that bumps “up” into it from knocking it off the dang wall (ask my how I know).
If you’re SURE nobody will bump it from below, they will.
My $.02
Brian? Sent from a device with less than stellar autocorrect
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 3:49 PM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
?A little math, and envisioning of the physics can also be useful.? Your mantle timber weighs about 130 pounds (2.8 cu ft x 45#/cu ft). Assuming studs on 16" centers, you'll have three studs to attach to, so each stud attachment point is carrying 43 lbs.? You can envision the attachment forces as hanging a 43 lbs weight at the center of gravity of the timber, like this drawing.? There are downward shearing forces on the cleat (blue), tension forces pulling outward on the screw (red), and compression forces pushing against the wall (yellow) It's probably intuitively obvious that these are not large forces and a simple french cleat is more than sufficient.??Also note that screws from the top into the cleat serve no purpose in Indiana (no earthquake there to lift the timber off the cleat, correct?) <Screen Shot 2021-01-06 at 1.34.46 PM.png> ??
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Yea, if you did that you’d have to sheetrock down to the mantle after. ?In the case I was working on, we had gone back to the studs throughout the house, installed the brackets (for the mantle and a large bench in the DR under a bay window), did the rough electric and plumbing, then insulated with foam, installed the sheetrock and got that finished up, then installed the mantle against the sheetrock.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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David,
Thanks for the details. I guess if I were to do this, i will probably epoxy the brackets in the mantle and then bolt the verticals to the studs while keeping mantle level. This on account of my ability to free hand drill as required to do this right.
Imran ? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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And then there is the occasional young kid or an old young at heart kid that wants to hang from the floating mantle ????
Imran?
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 4:49 PM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote: ?A little math, and envisioning of the physics can also be useful.? Your mantle timber weighs about 130 pounds (2.8 cu ft x 45#/cu ft). Assuming studs on 16" centers, you'll have three studs to attach to, so each stud attachment point is carrying 43 lbs.? You can envision the attachment forces as hanging a 43 lbs weight at the center of gravity of the timber, like this drawing.? There are downward shearing forces on the cleat (blue), tension forces pulling outward on the screw (red), and compression forces pushing against the wall (yellow) It's probably intuitively obvious that these are not large forces and a simple french cleat is more than sufficient.??Also note that screws from the top into the cleat serve no purpose in Indiana (no earthquake there to lift the timber off the cleat, correct?) <Screen Shot 2021-01-06 at 1.34.46 PM.png> ??
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David,
That makes perfect sense. There is brick, on the wall, where this is going. I know the guy whose house it is going in but I am primarily helping my neighbor who decided to take up this challenge.?Brick does add some mounting challenges that i will need to figure out.
After all the suggestions, I have to say that I would not have considered french cleat (thanks Joe). I have a hutch hanging with french cleat in my shop and I am certain it weighs twice, if not more, than the mantle.
The simplicity of a mounting block is still attractive. I do not see why it would sag. The mounting block should not move once secured to the wall. The pocket done (in the rear of the mantle) on shaper should be precise and with .005” capability on the planer i can make the mounting block fit like a glove. I think a hardwood mounting block will hold screws better and reduce chances of sagging.
Imran
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 5:09 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Yea, if you did that you’d have to sheetrock down to the mantle after. ?In the case I was working on, we had gone back to the studs throughout the house, installed the brackets (for the mantle and a large bench in the DR under a bay window), did the rough electric and plumbing, then insulated with foam, installed the sheetrock and got that finished up, then installed the mantle against the sheetrock.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
David,
Thanks for the details. I guess if I were to do this, i will probably epoxy the brackets in the mantle and then bolt the verticals to the studs while keeping mantle level. This on account of my ability to free hand drill as required to do this right.
Imran ? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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One nice things about a french cleat is that the thing hanging on the cleat can be leveled by placing shims between the halves of the cleat. ?
We hang a lot of art work with french cleats. ?Also, most of the shelves and things on the walls in my recently liquidated shop hung on French cleats.
Joe
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David,
That makes perfect sense. There is brick, on the wall, where this is going. I know the guy whose house it is going in but I am primarily helping my neighbor who decided to take up this challenge.?Brick does add some mounting challenges that i will need to figure out.
After all the suggestions, I have to say that I would not have considered french cleat (thanks Joe). I have a hutch hanging with french cleat in my shop and I am certain it weighs twice, if not more, than the mantle.
The simplicity of a mounting block is still attractive. I do not see why it would sag. The mounting block should not move once secured to the wall. The pocket done (in the rear of the mantle) on shaper should be precise and with .005” capability on the planer i can make the mounting block fit like a glove. I think a hardwood mounting block will hold screws better and reduce chances of sagging.
Imran ? Yea, if you did that you’d have to sheetrock down to the mantle after. ?In the case I was working on, we had gone back to the studs throughout the house, installed the brackets (for the mantle and a large bench in the DR under a bay window), did the rough electric and plumbing, then insulated with foam, installed the sheetrock and got that finished up, then installed the mantle against the sheetrock.
David,
Thanks for the details. I guess if I were to do this, i will probably epoxy the brackets in the mantle and then bolt the verticals to the studs while keeping mantle level. This on account of my ability to free hand drill as required to do this right.
Imran ? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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Hafele makes a lag that has two adjustable eccentric collars on it. You install them into the wall studs, drill holes 13mm or 17/32” in diameter about 5” deep into the shelf and then adjust the collars to make the shelf perpendicular to the way and slide the shelf on. No visible means of support and they work well. Not sure if I’d use them for a solid 7” thick mantel unless I could get two or more vertically on each stud, but they work great for shelving.
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 2:00 PM, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
I've done similar shelf installation down and dirty with lag screws into the studs. Once driven, the heads were cut off, and holes bore in the back of the shelves with an auger bit. Squirt some PL adhesive in the holes and slide it on. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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imran
Joe Jensen
Tad Gallistel
David P. Best
Jason Holtz