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I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling. ?The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope. ?I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in. ?From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments. ?I’m now ?considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work. ?While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck. ?I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are.
Thanks in advance,
Doug
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Without seeing what you are working with it's hard to know for sure. But perhaps rent an engine hoist? It might work with the low overhead. Lift the machine high enough to slide the crate out then set it down.
I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling.? The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope.? I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in.? From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments.? I’m now ?considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work.? While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck.? I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are.
Thanks in advance,
Doug
|
Doug,?
The bandsaw decreases topside load as the CoG shifts closer to the center of the base, and increases weight on the bottom. If you can use a chainfall?from the joists to get it as close as you can to the balance point, you can manage the rest with much lighter duty devices like cam-lever straps or a couple of 2x4s serving as levers, or a couple of friends with ropes/pulleys safely out of harm's way. You may not want to lift from a direct overhead point as when it reaches the last 10 degrees or so? of vertical after the balance point, next the CoG is within the footprint of the base, the machine will shift behavior to want to fall into correct position, there may be not enough angle on the lifting line to resist over-tipping in a controlled and safe fashion. Your ceiling height should not be an issue if you can rig from the roof structure at the right angles. If your machine isn't already marked where the CoG is, I'd suggest a ceiling attachment point about a foot toward the top of the geometrical center of the bandsaw.
I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling.? The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope.? I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in.? From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments.? I’m now ?considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work.? While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck.? I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are.
Thanks in advance,
Doug
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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There are many out there, but Harrington is a high quality reputable brand imo worth?the extra cost over competitors, and you may buy locally for better deals from rigging companies.
If attaching to lumber joints, I'd bore holes in both sides of a joist bay and run an iron pipe nipple through, securing with hose clamps, sleeves, or other collars to prevent sliding out of place under load. It's still your responsibility to determine the safe load you can put to the structure and/or what other reinforcements or added temporary jack columns you might need to use to reinforce to make for safe loading.
On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 8:27?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Doug,?
The bandsaw decreases topside load as the CoG shifts closer to the center of the base, and increases weight on the bottom. If you can use a chainfall?from the joists to get it as close as you can to the balance point, you can manage the rest with much lighter duty devices like cam-lever straps or a couple of 2x4s serving as levers, or a couple of friends with ropes/pulleys safely out of harm's way. You may not want to lift from a direct overhead point as when it reaches the last 10 degrees or so? of vertical after the balance point, next the CoG is within the footprint of the base, the machine will shift behavior to want to fall into correct position, there may be not enough angle on the lifting line to resist over-tipping in a controlled and safe fashion. Your ceiling height should not be an issue if you can rig from the roof structure at the right angles. If your machine isn't already marked where the CoG is, I'd suggest a ceiling attachment point about a foot toward the top of the geometrical center of the bandsaw.
I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling.? The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope.? I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in.? From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments.? I’m now ?considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work.? While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck.? I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are.
Thanks in advance,
Doug
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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You could get a gantry crane from Harbor Freight.? But you could probably lift it up with a few buddies. Dave Davies
On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 8:48?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: There are many out there, but Harrington is a high quality reputable brand imo worth?the extra cost over competitors, and you may buy locally for better deals from rigging companies.
If attaching to lumber joints, I'd bore holes in both sides of a joist bay and run an iron pipe nipple through, securing with hose clamps, sleeves, or other collars to prevent sliding out of place under load. It's still your responsibility to determine the safe load you can put to the structure and/or what other reinforcements or added temporary jack columns you might need to use to reinforce to make for safe loading.
On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 8:27?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Doug,?
The bandsaw decreases topside load as the CoG shifts closer to the center of the base, and increases weight on the bottom. If you can use a chainfall?from the joists to get it as close as you can to the balance point, you can manage the rest with much lighter duty devices like cam-lever straps or a couple of 2x4s serving as levers, or a couple of friends with ropes/pulleys safely out of harm's way. You may not want to lift from a direct overhead point as when it reaches the last 10 degrees or so? of vertical after the balance point, next the CoG is within the footprint of the base, the machine will shift behavior to want to fall into correct position, there may be not enough angle on the lifting line to resist over-tipping in a controlled and safe fashion. Your ceiling height should not be an issue if you can rig from the roof structure at the right angles. If your machine isn't already marked where the CoG is, I'd suggest a ceiling attachment point about a foot toward the top of the geometrical center of the bandsaw.
I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling.? The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope.? I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in.? From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments.? I’m now ?considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work.? While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck.? I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are.
Thanks in advance,
Doug
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Hi Doug,? All you should need is a come-a-long to stand it up. You don't need to be above it either, just go from the closest wall or something heavy you can anchor the other end to. I assume there is a lifting hook or eye on the top of the saw, or at least a hole to insert one?? And given your height restrictions, you will want to tip it front to back, not the spine to foot brake direction. I've done it before with a 510 and 610 it was pretty easy. That's a big saw for a basement shop! Enjoy it Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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First, your 600# kamado is of interest. Is that a Komodo Kamado? A Big Bad 32" is on my shortlist.?
I also have shorter than ideal ceilings, but i might consider breaking the law for 9'-10' ceilings. I have 7' and some change, which gives me about 1/2" of clearance for my 20" saw. For your machine, have you consider building a ramp to the pallet and then blocking the bandsaw up enough for a pallet jack to get under it? I have moved machines from pallets this way several times. Once you have it on the pallet jack, you can move it inside into place and lower it onto blocking. If you dont want it to be permanently on blocking, then you can do the reverse of slowly levering it and reducing the blocking. Alternatively, you can build your gantry outside to lift the saw off the pallet.?
Patrick
On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 9:48?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: There are many out there, but Harrington is a high quality reputable brand imo worth?the extra cost over competitors, and you may buy locally for better deals from rigging companies.
If attaching to lumber joints, I'd bore holes in both sides of a joist bay and run an iron pipe nipple through, securing with hose clamps, sleeves, or other collars to prevent sliding out of place under load. It's still your responsibility to determine the safe load you can put to the structure and/or what other reinforcements or added temporary jack columns you might need to use to reinforce to make for safe loading.
On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 8:27?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Doug,?
The bandsaw decreases topside load as the CoG shifts closer to the center of the base, and increases weight on the bottom. If you can use a chainfall?from the joists to get it as close as you can to the balance point, you can manage the rest with much lighter duty devices like cam-lever straps or a couple of 2x4s serving as levers, or a couple of friends with ropes/pulleys safely out of harm's way. You may not want to lift from a direct overhead point as when it reaches the last 10 degrees or so? of vertical after the balance point, next the CoG is within the footprint of the base, the machine will shift behavior to want to fall into correct position, there may be not enough angle on the lifting line to resist over-tipping in a controlled and safe fashion. Your ceiling height should not be an issue if you can rig from the roof structure at the right angles. If your machine isn't already marked where the CoG is, I'd suggest a ceiling attachment point about a foot toward the top of the geometrical center of the bandsaw.
I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling.? The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope.? I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in.? From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments.? I’m now ?considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work.? While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck.? I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are.
Thanks in advance,
Doug
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Getting sidetracked...we bought a Lone Star Grillz pellet smoker and love it. Dave Davies
First, your 600# kamado is of interest. Is that a Komodo Kamado? A Big Bad 32" is on my shortlist.?
I also have shorter than ideal ceilings, but i might consider breaking the law for 9'-10' ceilings. I have 7' and some change, which gives me about 1/2" of clearance for my 20" saw. For your machine, have you consider building a ramp to the pallet and then blocking the bandsaw up enough for a pallet jack to get under it? I have moved machines from pallets this way several times. Once you have it on the pallet jack, you can move it inside into place and lower it onto blocking. If you dont want it to be permanently on blocking, then you can do the reverse of slowly levering it and reducing the blocking. Alternatively, you can build your gantry outside to lift the saw off the pallet.?
Patrick
On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 9:48?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: There are many out there, but Harrington is a high quality reputable brand imo worth?the extra cost over competitors, and you may buy locally for better deals from rigging companies.
If attaching to lumber joints, I'd bore holes in both sides of a joist bay and run an iron pipe nipple through, securing with hose clamps, sleeves, or other collars to prevent sliding out of place under load. It's still your responsibility to determine the safe load you can put to the structure and/or what other reinforcements or added temporary jack columns you might need to use to reinforce to make for safe loading.
On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 8:27?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Doug,?
The bandsaw decreases topside load as the CoG shifts closer to the center of the base, and increases weight on the bottom. If you can use a chainfall?from the joists to get it as close as you can to the balance point, you can manage the rest with much lighter duty devices like cam-lever straps or a couple of 2x4s serving as levers, or a couple of friends with ropes/pulleys safely out of harm's way. You may not want to lift from a direct overhead point as when it reaches the last 10 degrees or so? of vertical after the balance point, next the CoG is within the footprint of the base, the machine will shift behavior to want to fall into correct position, there may be not enough angle on the lifting line to resist over-tipping in a controlled and safe fashion. Your ceiling height should not be an issue if you can rig from the roof structure at the right angles. If your machine isn't already marked where the CoG is, I'd suggest a ceiling attachment point about a foot toward the top of the geometrical center of the bandsaw.
I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling.? The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope.? I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in.? From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments.? I’m now ?considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work.? While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck.? I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are.
Thanks in advance,
Doug
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
"...you will want to tip it front to back, not the spine to foot brake direction."
?
It's crated lying on the spine so I can only see rotating it in that one direction. ?But, I've measured the diagonal at 8'3" so it will fit beneath the joists.
That's a big saw for a basement shop!
?
Ha! You are correct. ?I was going with the 610 but made a last minute decision, for a couple of reasons that may not hold up to intense scrutiny, to get this one. ?I haven't smoked pot in decades so I'm sure I wasn't high at the time, but oh well. ?It's mine now! ?I imagine I'd still be in the same situation with the 610 though with slightly more margin for error...
?
Thanks,
Doug
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Doug, ? On this group, nobody will judge you for over buying for your needs. Dave Davies
"...you will want to tip it front to back, not the spine to foot brake direction."
?
It's crated lying on the spine so I can only see rotating it in that one direction.? But, I've measured the diagonal at 8'3" so it will fit beneath the joists.
That's a big saw for a basement shop!
?
Ha! You are correct.? I was going with the 610 but made a last minute decision, for a couple of reasons that may not hold up to intense scrutiny, to get this one.? I haven't smoked pot in decades so I'm sure I wasn't high at the time, but oh well.? It's mine now!? I imagine I'd still be in the same situation with the 610 though with slightly more margin for error...
?
Thanks,
Doug
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Ahhh, I had not considered this approach, but this is so much simpler. ?It's a new home, and I'm pretty sure I can find out from the builder if that load would be a problem distributed across two adjacent joists, or just add the temporary reinforcement and not worry about it.
?
Thank you,
Doug
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First, your 600# kamado is of interest. Is that a Komodo Kamado? A Big Bad 32" is on my shortlist.?
?
It's a Kamado Joe "Big Joe" - their big'n. ?I love it. ?Which reminds me, I need to get a couple chickens in there smoking on the "Joetisserie" before the rain comes later.?
?
?
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Doug,
?
We had the same issue with my SCM s640p, which is and ACM saw.? It is just under 8 feet tall and originally I was putting it in my garage shop with a 7' tall door and 9' ceilings.? My son and I used a appliance dolly with a 45 degree support to get it off the trailer.? It still would not fit under the height of the door.? We almost killed ourselves lowering it to get under the door.? I wished I would have filmed it for comedy on YT.? We got it stood up and off the pallet it was on.? Fast forward 18 months and I had to move it into the new shop.? The new shop has an 8' door and 10' ceilings, so much easier.? But we still had to lay down the saw to get it out of the old garage shop.? We took off the table (decent removal of weight) and laid it down onto a furniture dolly with some straps to use to hold on to the spine of the saw at it went down.? I then used some triangles I made out of 2x4;s to keep it upright.? This was much easier.
?
When we got it into the shop we decided to try and brute force it upright.? My son and I are not weight lifters, I think my son is like 145 pounds.? We got it upright.? The moving straps really helped to give us some leverage.
?
Good luck!
?
PK
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Greetings, I recently bought a FB 710 in my workshop. We inserted it with a forklift. The situation in my workshop was not like yours. So we could move easily. However, when we needed to move the machine later, we found that we could move it with the help of 2 or 3 people by placing a blanket or fabric under it. The machine is not that heavy, of course, the condition of your place is very important in this regard. Please share photos.
--
Burak 骋ü谤别谤
Türkiye (owner Ad 951-K740S-FB710)
gurerwoodcraft/Instagram?
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This is so familiar!
?
My SCM S540P came crated upright, so I disassembled the crate from around the machine. With a couple of helpers I laid the machine on it’s spine to trundle it around the house to the lower level floor. We used a garden cart to carry the saw.
?
We removed the motor to reduce weight, and the table was already separate from the machine. We just manhandled it off the cart and stood it up. The S540P is much lighter than your saw and it was still a lot to handle, so I would avoid that method if possible.
?
One of the tricks is to never lift the entire machine. Leave one end on the cart, floor, pallet, or whatever, so manpower is only lifting 50%-60% of the machine weight. If tipping it upright, with the base being where the weight is and the floor supporting the base, the force needed to erect the saw is probably never over 400 pounds.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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I had a similar situation in my last shop/garage.? It was a finished garage, but it had an attic access that allowed for adding additional lifting height to the chain hoist.? I used a chain hoist because it allows for almost infinite control of your lift speed.? I constructed a 2x "beam" to spread the load of the band saw onto multiple joists and added another foot to the chain hoist attachment point (see picture).? I lifted the saw using the crate, not the eye bolt that the manual specified as the eye bolt requires a much higher lift height.? Once the saw is erected to a height that the center of gravity shifts to the opposite side of the lift chain, it will stand up on its own weight.? In fact, you will need to support the machine's base to control the rate of descend.? Be very careful at this junction.
?
?
?
Good luck and be safe.? Hope this helps.?
SW
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Brett,
?
The bandsaw decreases topside load as the CoG shifts closer to the center of the base, and increases weight on the bottom. If you can use a chainfall?from the joists to get it as close as you can to the balance point, you can manage the rest with much lighter duty devices like cam-lever straps or a couple of 2x4s serving as levers, or a couple of friends with ropes/pulleys safely out of harm's way. You may not want to lift from a direct overhead point as when it reaches the last 10 degrees or so? of vertical after the balance point, next the CoG is within the footprint of the base, the machine will shift behavior to want to fall into correct position, there may be not enough angle on the lifting line to resist over-tipping in a controlled and safe fashion. Your ceiling height should not be an issue if you can rig from the roof structure at the right angles. If your machine isn't already marked where the CoG is, I'd suggest a ceiling attachment point about a foot toward the top of the geometrical center of the bandsaw.
?
I want to make sure I understand what you’re saying. ?If I imagine the saw having been raised just to the balance point at which the CG will begin to create a moment to rotate the saw to vertical, are you suggesting the chain fall should be vertical at that point, or farther away from the direction of rotation of the rising saw, or toward the direction it is rotating into??
?
Thank you,
Doug
|
Doug,?
Vertical at balance point or a distance "further" away from final position would be preferred, safest, if you don't have abundance of ceiling height. The extra angle on the load line will assist in controlling descent and keeping humans a safe distance from the action.
Brett,
?
The bandsaw decreases topside load as the CoG shifts closer to the center of the base, and increases weight on the bottom. If you can use a chainfall?from the joists to get it as close as you can to the balance point, you can manage the rest with much lighter duty devices like cam-lever straps or a couple of 2x4s serving as levers, or a couple of friends with ropes/pulleys safely out of harm's way. You may not want to lift from a direct overhead point as when it reaches the last 10 degrees or so? of vertical after the balance point, next the CoG is within the footprint of the base, the machine will shift behavior to want to fall into correct position, there may be not enough angle on the lifting line to resist over-tipping in a controlled and safe fashion. Your ceiling height should not be an issue if you can rig from the roof structure at the right angles. If your machine isn't already marked where the CoG is, I'd suggest a ceiling attachment point about a foot toward the top of the geometrical center of the bandsaw.
?
I want to make sure I understand what you’re saying.? If I imagine the saw having been raised just to the balance point at which the CG will begin to create a moment to rotate the saw to vertical, are you suggesting the chain fall should be vertical at that point, or farther away from the direction of rotation of the rising saw, or toward the direction it is rotating into??
?
Thank you,
Doug
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Shinta,
?
I had a similar situation in my last shop/garage.? It was a finished garage, but it had an attic access that allowed for adding additional lifting height to the chain hoist.? I used a chain hoist because it allows for almost infinite control of your lift speed.? I constructed a 2x "beam" to spread the load of the band saw onto multiple joists and added another foot to the chain hoist attachment point (see picture).? I lifted the saw using the crate, not the eye bolt that the manual specified as the eye bolt requires a much higher lift height.? Once the saw is erected to a height that the center of gravity shifts to the opposite side of the lift chain, it will stand up on its own weight.? In fact, you will need to support the machine's base to control the rate of descend.? Be very careful at this junction.
?
Thanks for the pictures and description of your solution. ?I had not thought to use the crate to lift from but that does seem like it would improve the geometry. ?It appears that the attach point of the hoist to the crate was to the left of the hoist when you began lifting, and the hoist chain rotated counterclockwise through vertical and then to the right as the saw rotated upright. ?Is that right? What point on the saw was directly below the hoist when you started lifting?
?
Is that a single length of black pipe supporting the chain hoist? ?How long is the section of pipe between those 2x8's? ?I was advised by our builder not to hang the hoist from our joists as I'd have to drill through the web of the joist and support the pipe there and he wasn't sure it was rated for a load applied like that. ?I'm thinking to build a couple posts, each composed of 2 or 3 2x6's, which I can fit up between the joists to get maximum height, and run the pipe between them. ?However, if the saw & crate have to swing between them, they'd have to be far enough apart that black pipe seems potentially inadequate, plus the posts have to be held solidly upright as the direction of the load moves, so the design gets more complicated...
?
Doug
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Hi Doug, Where are you these days?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 6, 2025, at 11:09?AM, Doug Speck via groups.io <speckde@...> wrote:
Shinta,
?
I had a similar situation in my last shop/garage.? It was a finished garage, but it had an attic access that allowed for adding additional lifting height to the chain hoist.? I used a chain hoist because it allows for almost infinite control of your lift speed.? I constructed a 2x "beam" to spread the load of the band saw onto multiple joists and added another foot to the chain hoist attachment point (see picture).? I lifted the saw using the crate, not the eye bolt that the manual specified as the eye bolt requires a much higher lift height.? Once the saw is erected to a height that the center of gravity shifts to the opposite side of the lift chain, it will stand up on its own weight.? In fact, you will need to support the machine's base to control the rate of descend.? Be very careful at this junction.
?
Thanks for the pictures and description of your solution. ?I had not thought to use the crate to lift from but that does seem like it would improve the geometry. ?It appears that the attach point of the hoist to the crate was to the left of the hoist when you began lifting, and the hoist chain rotated counterclockwise through vertical and then to the right as the saw rotated upright. ?Is that right? What point on the saw was directly below the hoist when you started lifting?
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Is that a single length of black pipe supporting the chain hoist? ?How long is the section of pipe between those 2x8's? ?I was advised by our builder not to hang the hoist from our joists as I'd have to drill through the web of the joist and support the pipe there and he wasn't sure it was rated for a load applied like that. ?I'm thinking to build a couple posts, each composed of 2 or 3 2x6's, which I can fit up between the joists to get maximum height, and run the pipe between them. ?However, if the saw & crate have to swing between them, they'd have to be far enough apart that black pipe seems potentially inadequate, plus the posts have to be held solidly upright as the direction of the load moves, so the design gets more complicated...
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Doug
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Jason Holtz
PK
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