Cant install quiet option once it has shipped or been installed.?

@Steve - Yes the angled part is for the micro adjust.? Unfortunately at the moment it doesn't touch the section on one side so need to work with that a little more to stabilise it.? ?At this stage I havent used it so cant tell you how good or bad it is.? Once locked down happy to share STL.

@Brian - Yes the magnetic banding is under the tape.? Yes agreed will update the web and at this stage its 5mm thick, but the reason I put the slot insert section on the back of the main display is to support the weight of the DRO.? I will increase the thickness of the wall regardless.??

Thanks!

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Nice work! Where is the magnetic banding, under your tape? You might have to thicken up the web on the right side, suspect the flip blade will be able to flex that thin wall, especially flipped to the far side.

That looks awesome!? How well does it work overall?? I assume the angled part on top is for micro adjustments?? After you've made the tweaks you have to make the STL files for that housing available for download.

I bought the same LP02 model from AliExpress, also after watching the Hooked on Wood video.? I mounted it to the rip fence on my K3 after seeing someone else do something similar.? I powered mine with USB-based "batteries", which means it is powered via a wall socket instead of regular batteries.? That does mean the wires are present under the saw and move with the fence head, but it works just fine for my needs.

Hello all,

Is is possible to visually determine the trunnion type on these saws from a typical for sale photo?

Thank you

Hi Guys,

Recently acquired a Hammer K3.? I miss the incra fence I had on my old table saw so thought I would try my hand as a micro adjust and DRO in one.
I have taken inspiration from Derek Cohens design and am using Dennis from Hooked on Wood's DRO (Banggood ~AUD$50).?

Thanks to Joe Levstik for providing the profile file which saved me from having to do a precise measure.

So, this is what I have come up with.? Its very simple to install with no mods, just undo the cross cut nut and slide the main unit on and tighten.

Excuse the hardware, its what I had lying around ;)

This is the prototype and have some minor tweaks to make but keen to get feedback/suggestions.

Cheers
Nick

Joe you were always a few step before us, I think I bought my shaper based on your comments on Sawmillcreek.?

A used briquette has surfaced in my region and I might purchase it. It’s a Prodeco and it’s a 2015 model, slightly larger than what I need but I guess bigger is more durable when it comes to machinery

I’ve had a Comafer briquet press for 20 years. It’s been a love hate relationship. Unfortunately we over ran it with the moulder and had many issues. Totally my fault the company is fine. Just tough getting parts and support since they don’t have a presence in the US. It was broke for 5 years, hydraulics can be a bit complicated but my mechanic finally figured it out. When it went down I installed a 18 yard enclosed dump trailer connected to the automatic dust transfer of the Belfab. That system was way more cost effective than the briquet machine. I have it set now so I can transfer between systems. Going to the trailer when running production. I heat my house with wood and the briquet burn nice. It’s still not adjusted quite right but hope to use it totally as I move into retirement.

Weima is an active dealer in the US. Their units are pricy but the local support might be nice.

Tom,

This is exactly what I needed to know!? Thanks so much!

PK

Hi PK,

The automatic filter cleaning on the RL160 and RL200 is different than the RL250/300/350. Whereas the RL250/300/350 uses a volume of compressed air to directly clean the filters, the RL160 and RL200 utilizes a pneumatic cylinder to actuate the "flipper bar" that would otherwise be pulled/pushed by hand. When engaged, the cylinder actuates ten times (five "pulls", five "pushes").?

In terms of amount of air used, I'm currently using a Makita MAC2400??, which is a hand-carry, 4 gallon compressor rated at 4.2cfm @ 90psi. When the filter cleaning system cycles, my memory is that it draws enough air that my air compressor kicks on midway through the cycle, and even my little hand carry compressor easily keeps up. I assume that once I upgrade to a larger compressor I could go a full filter cleaning cycle without initiating the compressor pump.?

I hope this helps, happy to go into greater depth if you'd like.?


--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

Tom,

how much air does your RL 160 use during cleaning?? Is it like the RL250 and need a huge air supply?

PK

Mac, I’d burn them in the stove in my basement shop. Certainly wouldn’t be my primary way to heat, but I wouldn’t let them go to waste. I have nearly an unlimited supply of firewood from my sawmill hobby to provide the bulk of the heat.?

How do they differentiate.

At some point it's going to have to be software. Axiom is just a gimpy RichAuto pendant controller. I upgraded to a Centroid Acorn motion control system and it's a huge improvement, but the software is somewhere between DOS and Windows. It seems long time machinists accept this is how things are.

Shaper Origin doesn't have a 'true' CNC, but they really understand that easing the learning curve increases uptake. If that sort of thinking could be applied to a solid CNC machine you'd have a winner. Since Shaper's backers (who also own Festool) seem pretty savvy, I'm hopeful they'll fuel the breakthrough.

This thread got me curious about my own phase perfect, standard model, 20hp. I had specified with the engineer and contractor I am working with to select the quiet option. They neglected to select that option, it turns out. After efforts across the board to reduce noise, the phase perfect machine is the loudest (in terms of perception) in the shop.

Has anyone researched if retrofitting a standard model (the generation selling last year) with a quiet option is possible? I’ve been good at reducing noise and every bit helps. I’m curious and if it can be done for a reasonable cost, I’d do it.?

If not, I’ll give the company a call.?

Regards,?
Brian Lam

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Ed, are you going to heat with briquettes ?

Ed,
It's possible that the same motor could run on 460v, 60hz power.? Get the model number and contact the manufacturer.? A $10 nameplate might be the only modification required.? Controls may need some attention too.

That video and the 1 year follow up video are what drew me to seriously thinking about one. I spoke to the US distributor yesterday to check pricing and availability. The 50kg rated unit is around 22k. They have had very good luck with them and intend to carry the small 20kg unit late this year. The difficulty is getting the motor converted to the US standard. They ship as 3 phase 400 volt 50hz. The manufacturer charges an arm and a leg to swap the motor, and once you add customs and container shipping, it gets quite expensive. He figured it would run about 15k, but won’t know until the deal is inked. Obviously way less than what is currently available here, but still a lot more than our overseas friends are paying.

As mentioned by Paul - the RL is 8" - I converted incorrectly.

Scott

HI Brian -

I listed the items on Woodweb where their are photos and the prices listed.

If you have trouble please email and I can send?