Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
Although before posting I did first search the message boards but didn't come across your message Derek, so thanks for repeating it here.?
After several hours of greasing, decreasing, graphite powdering and a lot of lowering and raising I suddenly found a bunch of brass scrapings inside the saw. After that, everything was fixed within minutes. I turns out Rob H was correct. For me the problem lay between the washer #90 and the block #88 (the one closest to the crank). The easiest way to acces the back of the block was from the side of the sliding table. I used WD40 PTFE dry lube spray and it truly worked wonders. Obviously having a well lubricated thread and block #79 by that time will have helped as well.?
In the process of getting access to the thread shaft I did found that Nathan's comment is correct. After unscrewing the electrical panel, also loosening the metal plate from the actual electrical box enables it to be tilted out.
Thanks all for helping out
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
What I did was lubricate the drive thread and block that rotates and is circled in red and it made a small amount of difference but did not fix the problem entirely. I was convinced the problem was part 89 which is accessed by removing the hand wheel and then the circlip and washer, I wanted to remove it to add a grease nipple but that requires major work so I took the direct approach. I had a long series drill bit so that allowed me to lay the drill bit on the shaft and drill the block most of the way through parallel to the shaft and bingo instant fix when moly grease is squirted into the created hole. Since then I have never had to add more lubricant so it is a very long term fix.
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Re: Is it possible to visually determine which trunnion on 700 series saws from top?
Thank you for that.
I was uncertain about transition date and was looking for simple visible evidence.
From reading up on this I now gather that April 2007 is the date of change from single to double on the 700 series.
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Not the exact same as yours but I¡¯ve attached a picture?
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
I found when I replaced my brakerboard which is housed within the electrical box the same that Derek is removing. I found it difficult to remove until I loosened the meta face plate screws enough for it to be angled enough then removed
my handle is tight around this thread and still haven¡¯t picked up the graphite powder lubricant even after initially reading Derek¡¯s write up. Will get to that :)
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Re: Is it possible to visually determine which trunnion on 700 series saws from top?
Don¡¯t know about sale picture. You can tell from the machine tag, which has the date of manufacture on it. Mike King Special Consultant NERA Economic Consulting +1 303 618-4915
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On Aug 2, 2023, at 4:52 PM, Trboat <trboatworks@...> wrote:
?Hello all,
Is is possible to visually determine the trunnion type on these saws from a typical for sale photo?
Thank you
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
Derek,
Thanks for contributing to this topic. I always appreciate and learn from your comments. Your Woodwork Forums article is great, and the discussion comments are helpful.
A year or so ago, after reading an entry on this forum, perhaps yours, I attempted to remove the switch panel from my C3-31. It is different than the panel on your K3. My attempt was not successful.
I have used Silicone and White Lithium with the same results you report. I think it was Brian Lamb who noted that White Lithium just collects dust.?
To date, my best results have been with Boeshield T-9. I will try graphite.
Thanks again, Steve
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On Aug 5, 2023, at 7:45 PM, Derek Cohen <derekcohen@...> wrote:
Hi Bram I've sorted this successfully, and wrote it up here:? The forum link has discussion. Note to self - upload the article to my website. Chris Parks has an alternate method, which involves drilling through the adjusting block to allow oil to the screw. Here is the transcript of my article:??
Servicing the Hammer K3 blade adjust
Sooner or later your blade adjuster on your K3 will become stiff and require two hands to turn the wheel. It may take a few years, but it will occur, and then you will need to lube the mechanism.
I know Chris Parks has a modification he has made, but I barely knew where the mechanism was, let alone had the courage to do this.
About a year ago I called in Felder to sort it out, as the local guys are good folk and very responsive. They came out, but I was not that happy with the result. The adjuster felt stiffer still than when original. And it cost me a couple of hundred bucks. The adjuster was so stiff in recent weeks, that even two hands was a struggle.
This weekend I decided to do it myself. The result was very successful, and I wanted to pass on what I did.
First you have to open up access to the winder. Remove the switch panel ...
Slide away the box ...
The thread with the blade lowered all the way ...
The thread with the blade fully up ...
After cleaning all the dust inside the cabinet, and then blowing out any remaining dust, a silicon spray was directed at the thread. This was repeated several times with the winder in-and-out. It made little if any difference.
When Felder were here a year ago, the technician used lithium grease. So I sprayed this on, again repeatedly, and wound the handle in-and-out. A little improvement, but not much better than Felder achieved.
Finally I added a bunch of graphite to the thread, and wound it in-and-out. This made a big difference. And the more I wound the wheel, the better it got. I am not sure if the graphite helped clear any remaining gunk, or whether it was the lubricant needed. I returned to the wheel later, and it was now winding up (down is always easy) very comfortably with one hand.
Those who have done this might chip in her with anything else to be done or tried.
I did add some graphite to the slider, and this really smoothed it.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
Hi Bram I've sorted this successfully, and wrote it up here:? The forum link has discussion. Note to self - upload the article to my website. Chris Parks has an alternate method, which involves drilling through the adjusting block to allow oil to the screw. Here is the transcript of my article:??
Servicing the Hammer K3 blade adjust
Sooner or later your blade adjuster on your K3 will become stiff and require two hands to turn the wheel. It may take a few years, but it will occur, and then you will need to lube the mechanism.
I know Chris Parks has a modification he has made, but I barely knew where the mechanism was, let alone had the courage to do this.
About a year ago I called in Felder to sort it out, as the local guys are good folk and very responsive. They came out, but I was not that happy with the result. The adjuster felt stiffer still than when original. And it cost me a couple of hundred bucks. The adjuster was so stiff in recent weeks, that even two hands was a struggle.
This weekend I decided to do it myself. The result was very successful, and I wanted to pass on what I did.
First you have to open up access to the winder. Remove the switch panel ...
Slide away the box ...
The thread with the blade lowered all the way ...
The thread with the blade fully up ...
After cleaning all the dust inside the cabinet, and then blowing out any remaining dust, a silicon spray was directed at the thread. This was repeated several times with the winder in-and-out. It made little if any difference.
When Felder were here a year ago, the technician used lithium grease. So I sprayed this on, again repeatedly, and wound the handle in-and-out. A little improvement, but not much better than Felder achieved.
Finally I added a bunch of graphite to the thread, and wound it in-and-out. This made a big difference. And the more I wound the wheel, the better it got. I am not sure if the graphite helped clear any remaining gunk, or whether it was the lubricant needed. I returned to the wheel later, and it was now winding up (down is always easy) very comfortably with one hand.
Those who have done this might chip in her with anything else to be done or tried.
I did add some graphite to the slider, and this really smoothed it.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
Rob,
You remember correctly. As you note, the brass block can be seen through the front opening. That is the approach shown on page 133 of the manual. Using that approach, I can see the block, but have had trouble applying lubricant to the back surface. It has been easier for me to access the back of the block from the left side. Maybe I have the wrong equipment for lubricating?
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On Aug 5, 2023, at 12:52 PM, Rob H <rhorton@...> wrote:
I'm thinking from memory the tight spot on the Hammer K3's is the brass block # 88 and the shaft # 91. It is located right in the front of the opening in the saw showing the angle of cut. The block can be seen easily and lubricated right there with a fine oil ( not sure of the best one though)
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
I'm thinking from memory the tight spot on the Hammer K3's is the brass block # 88 and the shaft # 91. It is located right in the front of the opening in the saw showing the angle of cut. The block can be seen easily and lubricated right there with a fine oil ( not sure of the best one though)
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Does your saw table have these three holes bored through it which are a requirement for the scoring blade? 
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
Bram,
My C3-31 was delivered in 2017. Over the years, a number of FOG members have posted about lubrication of the saw elevation mechanism. Not too long ago, one of the posts mentioned the brass block as part of the issue. Before that post, I had not recognized the importance of the brass block.
After reading that post, and adding lubricant to the threads behind the brass block, the mechanism for elevating the blade has functioned more smoothly. In the environment of my shop, this must be done about once a month.
With the sliding table pushed to the back of the saw, and the blade tilted to something over 30 degrees, the brass block can be seen just below the threaded rod that is part of the tilting mechanism. From this angle, it is possible to apply lubricant to the threads just to the rear of the brass block.
Hopefully, more experienced members of the forum will let us know if this is a reasonable approach, or if there is a better way to lubricate the elevation mechanism.
Steve
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On Aug 5, 2023, at 10:31 AM, Bram Baert <bram.baert@...> wrote:
Hi,
Lately I've been experiencing issues with adjusting the height of the saw on a C3-31. It is becoming really difficult to raise up and it makes and feels like metal parts rubbing on each other without lubrication (seizing). I've already completely opened up the saw and cleared any dust from the moving surfaces and lubricating them with dry lube. It did make it slightly better but didn't fix the issue. My current idea is that something is wrong in the brass block indicated in the picture below. I haven't been able to get either the shaft or the block free from the machine to try and spin it "without load" as that would be a real undertaking.
Did anybody experience something similar and if so how did you fix it?
<dummyfile.0.part>
Regards Bram
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
Hi,
Completely opening up is perhaps overstated. I removed the blade, the dust catcher (#7 in the attached drawing) and the sliding panel to get access to the insides. If you then move the sliding table back and forth and twist your arm a bit you can get to most parts. Tilting the blade 45¡ã gives you nice access to the shaft and suspected block, through the holes of the angle gauge en height adjustment wheel.?
What parts/surfaces did you then lubricate with the Supergleit? Cause like you I am a bit skeptical about it :)
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
Brian,
To what surface did you apply the Supergleit? How did you access the proper surface?
Thanks,
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On Aug 5, 2023, at 10:47 AM, ibsenafshar <brian@...> wrote:
I would love to know how you were able to completely open up a C3-31.
I had the same issue and same results until I used the expensive Supergleit from Felder. I was skeptical about that product until I tried it, but I've had no issue raising the blade after using it.
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Hi Nathan -
- I purchased the C3-31 with the scoring blade, so I have never tried to disassemble the scoring unit.? To Imran's point, when I rotate the saw blade, the scoring unit counter-rotates, it may well be same belt driven.
- The Felder grooving cutter and the Forrest dado king are both good, like both, use both.? (I realize that does not answer your question).
- I got the Forrest DK because the Felder grooving cutter minimum width is 8mm.? For nominal 1/4" (6.1mm) Baltic Birch ply, I was looking for a dedicated 6mm grooving blade.?
- Turns out the Dado King was not much more in cost, so I just got the DK instead.? It cuts beautifully, does dados for the 1/4 ply really well.? For larger dados/rebates I use the Felder grooving cutter.
- Note that the Hammer is restricted to 180mm max on grooving/dado cutters.
? ? ? ?? good luck w your decision, cheers...
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Re: Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
I would love to know how you were able to completely open up a C3-31.
I had the same issue and same results until I used the expensive Supergleit from Felder. I was skeptical about that product until I tried it, but I've had no issue raising the blade after using it.
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Hammer saw height adjustment seizing
Hi, Lately I've been experiencing issues with adjusting the height of the saw on a C3-31. It is becoming really difficult to raise up and it makes and feels like metal parts rubbing on each other without lubrication (seizing). I've already completely opened up the saw and cleared any dust from the moving surfaces and lubricating them with dry lube. It did make it slightly better but didn't fix the issue. My current idea is that something is wrong in the brass block indicated in the picture below. I haven't been able to get either the shaft or the block free from the machine to try and spin it "without load" as that would be a real undertaking. Did anybody experience something similar and if so how did you fix it?  Regards Bram
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Nathan,
The FB instance of someone installing a scoring unit in field was on a 2018 CF741 - link below. This was a independent scorer vs one driven by the belt from saw motor.? I do not know if same is true for Hammer.?
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Nathan D'Elboux
imran