开云体育

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io

Re: Vinyl Tile Flooring

 

Dave, I used a glue down commercial grade vinyl. ?Very happy with this product. ?Looks good, easy to sweep, easy to repair like vinyl tires. ?It seems to be a bit more resilient than hard concrete under your feet. ?It has held up under the machines in my shop well. ?Also less cold than bare concrete, and economical to buy and install.


Re: Saw blade for cross cut.

 

开云体育

Chris, I should have added that in my experience one does not need high tooth count for cross cutting solid wood. The PN I shared below, you can see in application column, is recommended for veneer plywood.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:13?AM, Imran Malik <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:

?Chris, Below is a response I posted some time ago on my FB group. Here is the list of blades from Tenryu for sliding table saws and the PN for ATAFR is?IW-300100AB3


***
It is very helpful to think this out. One should try to get all blades with same kerf so all scales and riving knife remain true.

I started with Felder silent power (315 mm, 28 & 48 teeth ATB) on my 2002 KF without scoring option and the are fine. 3.2 mm kerf. I can’t comment to what max blade you can use with and without scoring on your KF but it should be in the manual.

I have been using Tenryu on my K975 and they are good blades. 300/350 mm dia and 28, 50 & 32 teeth ATB. 350 does not go under table.

IW-30028CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-30050CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-35032CBD3 (0.136 kerf)

David P Best uses the 50 teeth above for both rip and xcut and says it works fine.

Sliders do work better with less hook so do look for blades specifically made for sliders. Hopefully this helps.
**

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:35?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:

?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?


Re: Saw blade for cross cut.

 

开云体育

Chris, Below is a response I posted some time ago on my FB group. Here is the list of blades from Tenryu for sliding table saws and the PN for ATAFR is?IW-300100AB3


***
It is very helpful to think this out. One should try to get all blades with same kerf so all scales and riving knife remain true.

I started with Felder silent power (315 mm, 28 & 48 teeth ATB) on my 2002 KF without scoring option and the are fine. 3.2 mm kerf. I can’t comment to what max blade you can use with and without scoring on your KF but it should be in the manual.

I have been using Tenryu on my K975 and they are good blades. 300/350 mm dia and 28, 50 & 32 teeth ATB. 350 does not go under table.

IW-30028CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-30050CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-35032CBD3 (0.136 kerf)

David P Best uses the 50 teeth above for both rip and xcut and says it works fine.

Sliders do work better with less hook so do look for blades specifically made for sliders. Hopefully this helps.
**

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:35?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:

?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?


Saw blade for cross cut.

 

Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?


Re: Totally unrelated question

 

For the ceiling, I'd be more comfortable with locking buttons instead of z-clips.



Sent from for iOS


On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 07:30, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
This place has what you need, I used to use their Z-clips for hanging items a lot.







Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:22:25 AM MST, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:


Thank you Cornelius!?

Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?

The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz

publicKey - 4279427@pm.me - 0xCAA04E5D.asc
publicKey - 4279427@pm.me - 0xCAA04E5D.asc
signature.asc
signature.asc


Re: Vinyl Tile Flooring

 
Edited

Hi Dave
Unfortunately, it is too early for me to make a recommendation, but it's likely our new workshop floor will be "burnished" concrete.? It's also recommended I apply a good sealer after that.? Burnishing needs to be done before the concrete initially dries.? (Not sure if I have that exactly correct).? I've been advised the cost of burnishing is about mid way between just troweling (ie not much) and being polished.??
Cheers
David


Re: Totally unrelated question

 

Hi Mariusz
Clinton's suggestion is what came to mind when I read your post.??
In addition to that, having the "shadow area" including edges of the ply all black helps too. (check out this Scott Brown video.. ? ) It shows how they solved many of the problems.
Not sure if this is a good idea or not, but you could potentially run LED strip lighting in some of the shadow lines.
?
Cheers, David


Re: Totally unrelated question

 

Hi Mariusz

I am an architect. Joins between different materials are always complicated.? The simplest treatment is to create a deliberate "shadow line".? This can be a fixed gap between the ply and the wall? sheet. Alternatively cut a shallow rebate in the veneered material at the wall.? This could be painted to emphasise the line or even taken as an opportunity to insert LED strip lighting around the perimeter of the room.

Regards
Clinton


On Mon, 31 Mar 2025, 7:47?am mariusz_m via , <mariusz_m=comcast.net@groups.io> wrote:
Thank you Brian and Mac!
?
Mac, I’m glad the spindle worked out at the end!


Re: Ladder Diagram for KF700S

 

开云体育

Hi Michael,

I have heard of these current limiting devices but have no personal experience. It may be a simpler solution.


We never learned ladder logic in ELectrical Engineering, so can’t help you there but if you share the machine wiring diagram. I can annotate it with how the machine powers up and powers down.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 30, 2025, at 4:07?PM, Michael Garrison Stuber via groups.io <mtgstuber@...> wrote:

?
Does anyone have a ladder diagram for the motor control for the KF700 S?? I have the schematic that came with the saw, which is helpful, but also somewhat confusing.? A ladder diagram would be so much easier.
?
I've found that my off-grid power system really does not like the electronic braking system.? It's also not entirely happy with the inrush current.? I'm looking to integrate a soft start like I have have in my other large tools and disable the brake board.? Disabling the brake board is pretty easy.? The schematic shows what needs to be jumpered if there isn't a brake board.
?
I want to change the sequence so that the start button initiates the soft-start, and have the soft start disconnect the starting caps when it's finished with the ramp sequence.? Similarly, I need the stop button to open the control circuit for the soft-start.
?
(Note:? I'm aware that electronic brake is a safety feature.? This is for personal use and I'm willing to live with that risk to not cause damage to my inverters)


Re: Totally unrelated question

 

Thank you Brian and Mac!
?
Mac, I’m glad the spindle worked out at the end!


Re: Vinyl Tile Flooring

 

Found concrete densifiers.? Densifiers seem to be different than sealers?
Dave Davies

On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 3:26?PM kbhesser via <kbhesser=outlook.com@groups.io> wrote:
Concrete sealers can be clear or tinted and the good stuff you won’t find at the big box stores. I have used Sika sealers on past projects and will more than likely use it on a shop I’m building this year.?




--
Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868


Re: Vinyl Tile Flooring

 

Concrete sealers can be clear or tinted and the good stuff you won’t find at the big box stores. I have used Sika sealers on past projects and will more than likely use it on a shop I’m building this year.?



Ladder Diagram for KF700S

 

Does anyone have a ladder diagram for the motor control for the KF700 S?? I have the schematic that came with the saw, which is helpful, but also somewhat confusing.? A ladder diagram would be so much easier.
?
I've found that my off-grid power system really does not like the electronic braking system.? It's also not entirely happy with the inrush current.? I'm looking to integrate a soft start like I have have in my other large tools and disable the brake board.? Disabling the brake board is pretty easy.? The schematic shows what needs to be jumpered if there isn't a brake board.
?
I want to change the sequence so that the start button initiates the soft-start, and have the soft start disconnect the starting caps when it's finished with the ramp sequence.? Similarly, I need the stop button to open the control circuit for the soft-start.
?
(Note:? I'm aware that electronic brake is a safety feature.? This is for personal use and I'm willing to live with that risk to not cause damage to my inverters)


Re: Vinyl Tile Flooring

 

When you guys say "seal", what is the material?? I'm picturing Costco.? Is that what you are describing?


Re: Totally unrelated question

 

开云体育


Mariusz,

This is one style I’ve used numerous times also just a butt line with a steel profile the z shadow you might say it’s more forgiving.


IMG_6385.png

By the way just started using the 30 mm spindle for the Gomad again thank you.

Best mac,,,


martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Mar 30, 2025, at 6:11?AM, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:

?
This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints??

Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws.

Thanks a lot!
Mariusz


Re: File /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl uploaded #file-notice

 

OK, I uploaded another version that's .25mm thicker, it's called the Felder spinter block 37mm wide.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:25:09 AM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:


Measure your stop blocks, mine are 37mm wide off the fence and my printed part came out about 36.75mm, so I'll add the .25mm to the model and repost the stl file. Better to be slightly wider and sand it down rather than too narrow.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:19:25 AM MST, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:


Thanks Brian!
I will give it a whirl and report back on it.

Jason

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture

3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


Re: Totally unrelated question

 

This place has what you need, I used to use their Z-clips for hanging items a lot.







Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:22:25 AM MST, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:


Thank you Cornelius!?

Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?

The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz


Re: File /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl uploaded #file-notice

 

Measure your stop blocks, mine are 37mm wide off the fence and my printed part came out about 36.75mm, so I'll add the .25mm to the model and repost the stl file. Better to be slightly wider and sand it down rather than too narrow.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:19:25 AM MST, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:


Thanks Brian!
I will give it a whirl and report back on it.

Jason

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture

3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406


Re: Totally unrelated question

 

Thank you Cornelius!?

Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?

The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz


Re: Vinyl Tile Flooring

 

开云体育

David,

Another idea for concrete floors. ?I’ve seen it done many times and looks great.?

Honed concrete is?a smooth, matte concrete finish achieved by grinding the surface, often followed by sealing, and is known for its durability, low maintenance, and slip resistance, making it suitable for both indoor and outdoor applications.?

Thx,

Wade



On Mar 29, 2025, at 9:22?PM, Alex Bowlds via groups.io <aabj@...> wrote:

?
Hi David,
?
I too built my 2400SF shop with the intent of using part of it for automotive and metal work. ?I installed a two post lift with a 13,000lb capacity. ?I was a heavy equipment mechanic, starting very young, until I changed course and became a firefighter. ?I continued to do mechanic work for family, friends, and myself for the past 50 years while earning a paycheck as a firefighter.
?
The two post lift was one of the best tool investments I have made. I do enjoy changing my oil while standing up.
?
As for the floor, I too considered a variety of options including epoxy, vinyl, OSB, and even carpet tiles. ?James Hamilton, AKA Stumpy Nubs, has the carpet tiles on his shop floor. ?Carpet would not be a good choice under the lift.
?
I've dealt with the oil staining first by applying a sealer to the concrete. ?This has greatly minimized the ability for virtually anything to stain the concrete. ?Second, I keep used cardboard on the floor immediately below the vehicle in the "splash" zone. ?This has allowed me to keep the area under the lift virtually stain free. ?Nothing is perfect. ?I dropped a front hub from about 4'. ?It left a small crater in the concrete floor. ?I could fill it, but it would be even more obvious. ?No matter what floor I might have installed over the concrete, this would have left a mark. ?My point is similar to Mac. ?It is a shop floor. ?Make reasonable efforts to keep it nice.
?
You are still faced with keeping the floor stain free while the new concrete cures. ?I assume, from the photos, that your floor is quite new. ?If so, you will need to wait until the concrete cures before you can seal it. ?You would need to do this anyway if you planned to coat the floor with anything intended to adhere to the concrete.
?
I wasn't willing to wait until the concrete cured enough to apply epoxy before moving in. ?And I decided I didn't want to have to move everything a second time to apply the epoxy, and then wait until that cured in order to move everything back.
?
Finally, over the years, I have worked in several fire stations with epoxy floors. ?This stuff is tough, but like anything else, it wears. ?If not applied correctly, it will not adhere to the concrete. ?In one case, the new fire station had it applied, only to have it fail if various random places. ?The contractor had to scrape and grind it all off, and start over, only to have it fail a second time. ?Ultimately, the floor was polished concrete and sealed. ?The general consensus was the concrete had not cured enough and moisture in the concrete caused it to bubble up over time.
?
Good luck with your floor and your shop. ?I certainly enjoy mine.
?
By the way, how will you heat your shop?
?
Alex B.
?
?
?
On 03/28/2025 11:03 AM PDT David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
?
I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained.
Dave Davies

On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen.

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Mar 28, 2025, at 10:26?AM, Wade Dees via <wjdsignature=comcast.net@groups.io> wrote:

?
Hi Dave Davies,
?
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
?
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?

On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
<inline.0.part>
?
Thanks
Dave Davies

?

?

?
?
--
Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868