Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
Thanks for the suggestion Imran. ?I¡¯ll borrow a meter from the electrical guys at the chem plant I work at and test this. ?The tech support guy said that the most common thing is the capacitors. ?He asked me if I held the start button down till the planer got up to speed...I did not because I didn¡¯t realize I was supposed to do that. ?He thinks it might be that the start capacitor is fine and the run capacitor could be going bad. ?I really hope that is the case since it would be a relatively inexpensive fix. ?I can¡¯t even imagine the steps I would have to take to replace the planer motor since there is no easy access door. ?I really hope that the capacitor replacement fixes the issue. ?This is my second gremlin on this machine. ?I had to replace the ebrake circuit board earlier this year.
-Annu
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Re: CF-531 won¡¯t start after replacing selector switch
Success at last!
Thanks to Joe and Imran for your suggestions and encouragement.
After looking at the internal switching arrangement for the new switch and comparing it to those of the old switch, I took a stab at reassigning all of the switch connections.? All but four of the 22 original switch connection were remapped to other terminals on the new switch.
Everything works beautifully now, but I am a little concerned that the jointer/planer and shaper motors are getting one side of the 240V line voltage whenever ANY motor is running.? This was because the new switch has fewer switching functions than the old switch and I couldn¡¯t see any other way to wire it up.? ?I have checked with Felder to see if they have any suggestions on how to address this or to say that it shouldn¡¯t be a problem in the long term.
Key lessons here are:
- Make sure you have the machine wiring diagram (I have posted this to the FILES) before attempting any electrical repairs (goes without saying in retrospect, but¡)
- If the replacement switch is a different model number than the old switch, check with the switch manufacturer (Kraus & Naimer, in this case) to get the internal switching configuration for the old and new switches and compare them
- Modify the machine wiring diagram as needed based on the differences between the old and new switching configurations, checking with Felder as you go to ensure everything will continue to run smoothly for a long time.
As a sidenote and a warning to others, I partially disassembled the old switch and springs flew everywhere!? Don¡¯t try this at home!? There is no way I could reassemble this and Kraus & Naimer (Canada) told me they don¡¯t offer reassembly service anymore ¨C might be different in other countries.? In retrospect upon seeing the internals of the switch, I thought it was pretty robust and suspect that I could have MacGyver¡¯d a fix for the intermittent jointer/planer operation that I had been experiencing without the need to buy a new switch and to go through all the headache of reconfiguring most of the wires to the switch.? Live and learn¡
Keep safe.
Todd
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I have a BF6-31 and the guy I bought it from sold it to me with a tenon hood and a 250mm adjustable slotting cutter that I've had need to use until now.? I'm looking to cut 2 inch deep 31/64th slots length-wise through some cherry boards.? I've attached a photo of all the pieces I have that I think are related to the tenon hood.? I've looked at the photos David Best posted of the tenon hood setup and my parts look similiar but not the same as what his photos show so I;m not sure what to do.? I will also need to go buy whatever connecting bolts are required since I have all the hood peices but no connectors - not even to bolt it to the table.? Thanks for any tips.
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Thanks guys! Well I had to keep my machine under a tarp while I built another shed to make room in the workshop, but now it's in a dry workshop. It's in OK condition as I put plenty of oil on the exposed parts. There was a LOT of old sawdust inside it as all the dust ducts where shot. I'm still finding piles of sawdust when I dig into new bits, like today when I saw the Thicknesser drive chain for the first time... I've finally put a VFD on it and run it all up and everything runs nice with no vibrations. I spent some time today with DTI's, feeler gauges and straight edges to see whats where with respect to the saw/moulder table. The planer cutter block is level with the saw table as are the inner edges of the tables. The in feed table is actually drooping slightly... about 1.2mm I'd appreciate the set up manual if possible. My email is richard_markham@...I found the alignment screws that I assume set the squareness of the tables to the cutter block but not the adjusters for the table tilt fore and aft. I can also see that the height of the hold down bar (hex bar on two adjusters) will set the table tilt across the cutter block. I've been playing with getting the cutter to pull a bit of wood 3-5mm along the out feed table at both sides of the cutter block. You're right, you do have to chase it around, but no worse than getting a rifle barrel set up in a lathe with 8 adjustment bolts! The main challenge at the moment is not getting frostbite. Needless to say there's no stock of IR heaters at the moment! Anyway, if you can email me the setup notes I'd appreciate it! Cheers.
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We have plenty of Felder supplied documents in the files section. You guys do realize you are talking 30 year old machines and parts can¡¯t expect to be stocked forever, and if they are, they are going to cost you larger amounts of money. As the manufacturer, they can¡¯t be expected to have some plastic dust shroud pieces on hand when they may have sold one or two in the past 15 years¡. nobody can stock that kind of inventory.
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No problem Paul, Let me know how I can send you a copy, I don¡¯t want to post them on the site as obviously Felder don¡¯t want them in general circulation and the engineer asked me not to tell etc! But as Felder now see them as obsolete I¡¯m sure they don¡¯t service them anymore so we should be able too! Martin? ?
Martin, I would appreciate a copy of the same document if you are willing to share it.
My nut and bolt overhaul is taking a lot longer than expected so any short cuts would be a much appreciated.
Richard if your machine is.stored in an unheated space I would recommend installing a small tube heater or ceramic heater with a frost thermostat inside the casing that keeps the machine? at 5 degrees.
Coupled with a good cover then is saves a lot of degradation problems from poor environmental conditions
Had i been able to store mine in a space with power for the heater? then all I would be doing is changing bearings.
Sent from my Windows Phone
Hi Richard?
Firstly I can commiserate with you being in the garage... me too!
You¡¯ve been given good advice though and it¡¯s all on the right lines!
I¡¯ve had to do it a couple of times and yes it is a juggling game as you adjust one element and then the others go out and you keep going round in circles!
However there is a correct procedure and it¡¯s easier when you take that route!
I managed to get copies of the engineers set up manual and it made so much more sense as it involves the saw table, blade holder,blades, out feed and in-feed tables, let me know how I can send you the relevant and I¡¯ll be happy to help!
Do you have the manual that comes with the machine? As you¡¯ll probably need that as well!
It¡¯s shocking that these set up procedures are not supplied with the machine!
Regards Martin?
?
Richard a pair of DTI's on magnetic bases would be the ideal tools for setting the outfeed table
?if you can lay your hands on them.
It will show you straight away if there is movement as you are tightening anything, especially with the hood removed.
Thanks Paul,
I have the exploded drawings.
I'll have a good look today. It's chilly here in my garage!
I don't mind spending days on doing it, as long as I am doing it right! It should only need doing once.
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I would not hold my breath waiting for machines to become more sustainable.? My experience is the opposite.? Machines are built so their lives match those of the electronics and are seldom supported as long as Felder has supported the 6 series.? Keep in mind
that in the days of the 5,6, and even 7 series, Felder was a small made to order supplier of very high end hobby level machines.? They were not made to compete in an industrial setting with Martin, Hoffmann, Kolle, or Bauerle.? Felder survived while others
did not so they had it figured out.? Given the relatively small numbers produced and the lower use,? and? less industrial environment they lived in, there aren't many clapped out beat up machines to serve for parts and not enough market of those looking for
parts to justify making new runs of old stuff.? Dave
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Mine also was a stretch purchase when I bought it to start a business but worth every penny. Its also the reason I refused to part with it through thick and thin.
In our new world of sustainability, then the policy of planned obsolescence no longer fits.
Manufacturers are going to need to start to take this into account if they are going to retain there credential's in this area..
Only time will tell as you never see a Felder machine as spares or repair on Ebay or elsewhere.
So where do they go to die?
Simple answer? is they never do....
Sent from my Windows Phone
Oh! Forgot to say, when I bought my machine with everything added as an extra it certainly wasn¡¯t cheap and one fear I had was support and parts for the future!
They assured me that I wouldn¡¯t live long enough to reach the time when that would be the case!
?I¡¯m very disappointed that this has turned out not to be the case, a machine for a hobbyist or like me a small business producing quality renovation work bought with care was a huge investment that we were told would see us out. I¡¯ve been in this situation
for about 6 year¡¯s now, not being able to get parts or paying vast amounts for nothing much. I can¡¯t afford to re-tool now as I¡¯ve only got about half a dozen years left that I can in visage being able to work left to me.. if I¡¯m lucky. It¡¯ll be ironic if
it¡¯s the heart of my workshop that forces me to retire earlier than I really can afford too!
Martin?
On 8 Jan 2021, at 19:13, Martin Guiver <martin.guiver@...> wrote:
?Yep that¡¯s the part! I bought mine in 2012 and paid Felder ?23.50 + vat!!!
Bloody awful!
Another example was my control transformer packed in and Felder wanted over ?400 inc... bought one from RS electrical for ?33 inc vat and posted. ? ? ?Perfect!
Martin?
On 8 Jan 2021, at 14:41, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
?
Richard,
My sentiments are the same with my overhaul, factory parts if not the original restored, but the spares list is already over the ?700 mark and I need to be realistic about things like belts and bearings which can be sourced like for like from specialist
suppliers.
As to the high speed router spindle, its something I have always had mixed feelings about,?
its good for those large cutters that turn the router into something akin to a gyroscope, big moulding cutters and panel raisers.
Its also pretty handy when you are trying to do something a bit exotic on profile shapes.
I found the 15000 rpm to be an issue on smaller cutters and it always did sound like it was pushing the machine to its limit running something at that high an RPM.
The big win was always the saving on floor space in a small workshop over accommodating a free standing table.
Thanks Again Paul. I was just hoping to restore it as near as new as possible with original parts but hey ho!
I'd like a high speed moulder spindle for router bits but I guess these are more than buying a complete dedicated table router!
|
No problem Paul, Let me know how I can send you a copy, I don¡¯t want to post them on the site as obviously Felder don¡¯t want them in general circulation and the engineer asked me not to tell etc! But as Felder now see them as obsolete I¡¯m sure they don¡¯t service them anymore so we should be able too!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Jan 2021, at 20:40, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
?
Martin, I would appreciate a copy of the same document if you are willing to share it.
My nut and bolt overhaul is taking a lot longer than expected so any short cuts would be a much appreciated.
Richard if your machine is.stored in an unheated space I would recommend installing a small tube heater or ceramic heater with a frost thermostat inside the casing that keeps the machine? at 5 degrees.
Coupled with a good cover then is saves a lot of degradation problems from poor environmental conditions
Had i been able to store mine in a space with power for the heater? then all I would be doing is changing bearings.
Sent from my Windows Phone
Hi Richard?
Firstly I can commiserate with you being in the garage... me too!
You¡¯ve been given good advice though and it¡¯s all on the right lines!
I¡¯ve had to do it a couple of times and yes it is a juggling game as you adjust one element and then the others go out and you keep going round in circles!
However there is a correct procedure and it¡¯s easier when you take that route!
I managed to get copies of the engineers set up manual and it made so much more sense as it involves the saw table, blade holder,blades, out feed and in-feed tables, let me know how I can send you the relevant and I¡¯ll be happy to help!
Do you have the manual that comes with the machine? As you¡¯ll probably need that as well!
It¡¯s shocking that these set up procedures are not supplied with the machine!
Regards Martin?
On 8 Jan 2021, at 14:26, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrotefirs:
?
Richard a pair of DTI's on magnetic bases would be the ideal tools for setting the outfeed table
?if you can lay your hands on them.
It will show you straight away if there is movement as you are tightening anything, especially with the hood removed.
Thanks Paul,
I have the exploded drawings.
I'll have a good look today. It's chilly here in my garage!
I don't mind spending days on doing it, as long as I am doing it right! It should only need doing once.
|
Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
Annu,
If it is starting up normally, i would think caps are okay. If you buy caps and replace them yourself that is okay but if you are paying for a service call, I would buy a clamp-on current meter ($15) from harbor freight (off course you can get better ones but mine still works after 10+ yrs) and check the current draw.
I had a motor with short and it did exactly what you describe.
If you buy the clamp meter, make sure you can get it around one of the two wires (black it white) coming to the machine or going to the motor.
Imran
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On Jan 8, 2021, at 3:15 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote: ?Talked with the felder folk...gonna replace both the start and run capacitors. ?The electrical smell seems to be coming from that general area. ?Fingers crossed....
|
Martin, I would appreciate a copy of the same document if you are willing to share it.
My nut and bolt overhaul is taking a lot longer than expected so any short cuts would be a much appreciated.
Richard if your machine is.stored in an unheated space I would recommend installing a small tube heater or ceramic heater with a frost thermostat inside the casing that keeps the machine? at 5 degrees.
Coupled with a good cover then is saves a lot of degradation problems from poor environmental conditions
Had i been able to store mine in a space with power for the heater? then all I would be doing is changing bearings.
Sent from my Windows Phone
Hi Richard?
Firstly I can commiserate with you being in the garage... me too!
You¡¯ve been given good advice though and it¡¯s all on the right lines!
I¡¯ve had to do it a couple of times and yes it is a juggling game as you adjust one element and then the others go out and you keep going round in circles!
However there is a correct procedure and it¡¯s easier when you take that route!
I managed to get copies of the engineers set up manual and it made so much more sense as it involves the saw table, blade holder,blades, out feed and in-feed tables, let me know how I can send you the relevant and I¡¯ll be happy to help!
Do you have the manual that comes with the machine? As you¡¯ll probably need that as well!
It¡¯s shocking that these set up procedures are not supplied with the machine!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Jan 2021, at 14:26, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrotefirs:
?
Richard a pair of DTI's on magnetic bases would be the ideal tools for setting the outfeed table
?if you can lay your hands on them.
It will show you straight away if there is movement as you are tightening anything, especially with the hood removed.
Thanks Paul,
I have the exploded drawings.
I'll have a good look today. It's chilly here in my garage!
I don't mind spending days on doing it, as long as I am doing it right! It should only need doing once.
|
Hi Richard? Firstly I can commiserate with you being in the garage... me too! You¡¯ve been given good advice though and it¡¯s all on the right lines! I¡¯ve had to do it a couple of times and yes it is a juggling game as you adjust one element and then the others go out and you keep going round in circles! However there is a correct procedure and it¡¯s easier when you take that route! I managed to get copies of the engineers set up manual and it made so much more sense as it involves the saw table, blade holder,blades, out feed and in-feed tables, let me know how I can send you the relevant and I¡¯ll be happy to help! Do you have the manual that comes with the machine? As you¡¯ll probably need that as well! It¡¯s shocking that these set up procedures are not supplied with the machine!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Jan 2021, at 14:26, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrotefirs:
?
Richard a pair of DTI's on magnetic bases would be the ideal tools for setting the outfeed table
?if you can lay your hands on them.
It will show you straight away if there is movement as you are tightening anything, especially with the hood removed.
Thanks Paul,
I have the exploded drawings.
I'll have a good look today. It's chilly here in my garage!
I don't mind spending days on doing it, as long as I am doing it right! It should only need doing once.
|
Mine also was a stretch purchase when I bought it to start a business but worth every penny. Its also the reason I refused to part with it through thick and thin.
In our new world of sustainability, then the policy of planned obsolescence no longer fits.
Manufacturers are going to need to start to take this into account if they are going to retain there credential's in this area..
Only time will tell as you never see a Felder machine as spares or repair on Ebay or elsewhere.
So where do they go to die?
Simple answer? is they never do....
Sent from my Windows Phone
Oh! Forgot to say, when I bought my machine with everything added as an extra it certainly wasn¡¯t cheap and one fear I had was support and parts for the future!
They assured me that I wouldn¡¯t live long enough to reach the time when that would be the case!
?I¡¯m very disappointed that this has turned out not to be the case, a machine for a hobbyist or like me a small business producing quality renovation work bought with care was a huge investment that we were told would see us out. I¡¯ve been in this situation
for about 6 year¡¯s now, not being able to get parts or paying vast amounts for nothing much. I can¡¯t afford to re-tool now as I¡¯ve only got about half a dozen years left that I can in visage being able to work left to me.. if I¡¯m lucky. It¡¯ll be ironic if
it¡¯s the heart of my workshop that forces me to retire earlier than I really can afford too!
Martin?
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Show quoted text
On 8 Jan 2021, at 19:13, Martin Guiver <martin.guiver@...> wrote:
?Yep that¡¯s the part! I bought mine in 2012 and paid Felder ?23.50 + vat!!!
Bloody awful!
Another example was my control transformer packed in and Felder wanted over ?400 inc... bought one from RS electrical for ?33 inc vat and posted. ? ? ?Perfect!
Martin?
On 8 Jan 2021, at 14:41, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
?
Richard,
My sentiments are the same with my overhaul, factory parts if not the original restored, but the spares list is already over the ?700 mark and I need to be realistic about things like belts and bearings which can be sourced like for like from specialist
suppliers.
As to the high speed router spindle, its something I have always had mixed feelings about,?
its good for those large cutters that turn the router into something akin to a gyroscope, big moulding cutters and panel raisers.
Its also pretty handy when you are trying to do something a bit exotic on profile shapes.
I found the 15000 rpm to be an issue on smaller cutters and it always did sound like it was pushing the machine to its limit running something at that high an RPM.
The big win was always the saving on floor space in a small workshop over accommodating a free standing table.
Thanks Again Paul. I was just hoping to restore it as near as new as possible with original parts but hey ho!
I'd like a high speed moulder spindle for router bits but I guess these are more than buying a complete dedicated table router!
|
Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
Talked with the felder folk...gonna replace both the start and run capacitors. ?The electrical smell seems to be coming from that general area. ?Fingers crossed....
|
Oh! Forgot to say, when I bought my machine with everything added as an extra it certainly wasn¡¯t cheap and one fear I had was support and parts for the future! They assured me that I wouldn¡¯t live long enough to reach the time when that would be the case! ?I¡¯m very disappointed that this has turned out not to be the case, a machine for a hobbyist or like me a small business producing quality renovation work bought with care was a huge investment that we were told would see us out. I¡¯ve been in this situation for about 6 year¡¯s now, not being able to get parts or paying vast amounts for nothing much. I can¡¯t afford to re-tool now as I¡¯ve only got about half a dozen years left that I can in visage being able to work left to me.. if I¡¯m lucky. It¡¯ll be ironic if it¡¯s the heart of my workshop that forces me to retire earlier than I really can afford too!
Martin?
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Show quoted text
On 8 Jan 2021, at 19:13, Martin Guiver <martin.guiver@...> wrote:
? Yep that¡¯s the part! I bought mine in 2012 and paid Felder ?23.50 + vat!!! Bloody awful! Another example was my control transformer packed in and Felder wanted over ?400 inc... bought one from RS electrical for ?33 inc vat and posted. ? ? ?Perfect! Martin? On 8 Jan 2021, at 14:41, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
?
Richard,
My sentiments are the same with my overhaul, factory parts if not the original restored, but the spares list is already over the ?700 mark and I need to be realistic about things like belts and bearings which can be sourced like for like from specialist
suppliers.
As to the high speed router spindle, its something I have always had mixed feelings about,?
its good for those large cutters that turn the router into something akin to a gyroscope, big moulding cutters and panel raisers.
Its also pretty handy when you are trying to do something a bit exotic on profile shapes.
I found the 15000 rpm to be an issue on smaller cutters and it always did sound like it was pushing the machine to its limit running something at that high an RPM.
The big win was always the saving on floor space in a small workshop over accommodating a free standing table.
Thanks Again Paul. I was just hoping to restore it as near as new as possible with original parts but hey ho!
I'd like a high speed moulder spindle for router bits but I guess these are more than buying a complete dedicated table router!
|
Re: Maffel double miter fence
Tom,
Thanks for the explanation, Mafell's double miter fence is really cool.
I was watching the miter joint cut video for the different width stock yesterday, really impressed by the simple way based on parallelogram (no angle calculation)?demonstrated?in the video.
James ?
?
On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 1:05 PM < tom@...> wrote: [Edited Message Follows]
Hi James!?
Yeah, the MFA is a really neat fence. It's funny, you can catch glimpses of me in the video you posted (crossed arms, Snickers trousers). In this video I'm helping to demonstrate using the Mafell bandsaw for compound miters. Not bad for a first try. ?
The fence has a sort of eccentric motion as you swing it through the various miter degrees, so it's length compensated at any given degree, not just predetermined points. Really neat, but really best suited for 1x material, and it's indexed for the Mafell fences, if you change the fence it monkeys with the geometry and I'm sure you'd lose the length compensation.?
EDIT: The Mafell MFA has its stock short fences, but can utilize 1m fences that utilize flop stops. The 1m fences can be extended indefinitely using a joining bar, the 1m fence is marked to work with the MFA, but does not start at "0", so any extra extensions beyond the first will not be able to use the stock scale as applied by Mafell, though I suppose you could retrofit something for the fence extensions.?
For reference, I do own a ERIKA 70 with MFA and nearly every accessory, and when I ordered my KF700 I did opt for the Miter Index System with Length Compensation for larger pieces that I didn't think were suitable for cutting with the ERIKA....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Thanks David,
The BF6 is a lot different and a lot less obvious!
Your machine has those nice, easily accessable adjusters.
No such luck on mine.
I am gradually learning my way around it though.
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Re: WoodShop structure Slab vs pier and beam
If you're looking at piers, due to soil conditions a lot of additions in South Minneapolis are built on helical piers. Pretty neat product, may be worth looking into depending on your soil and weight bearing needs.?
Note that you have a lot of flexibility in terms of your:
-- Joist material (2x dimensional lumber, LVL, or TJI)
-- Joist height
-- Joist spacing
-- Subfloor material (I'm partial to AdvanTech)
-- Subfloor thickness (you can bump up to 7/8", 1", or even 1-1/8" Advantech)
-- Number of subfloor layers
So, with the help of an architect or someone handy with the span tables, you should be able to come up with a floor which will perform to your liking, while still allowing bulk water to pass underneath....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
? What i would do in this scenario is measure current while running motor under no load. If there is a short, the current will be higher than FLA listed on the motor and it is the most likely reason of the motor running hot.
Most likely means you will be replacing the motor.
Imran?
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On Jan 8, 2021, at 12:11 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote: ?Hello All,?
I'm running into a issue with my C-31 I was hoping you could help out with.? I was in the process of planeing/thicknessing around 20 or so 6' boards this morning as part of a woodworking table build.? About half way through, the planer started making a a little bit different noise so I stoped and and turned off the machine.? After disconnecting power, i manually turned the roller to make sure it was turning freely.? I then turned on the machine and continued planeing.? A couple of minutes in, the maching shut off.? During this process, I was wearing a half face respirator that had a organic vapor filter on it because my n95 pads fit over it with a filter retainer.? When i took it off, i smelled a burnt plastic smell.? After turing off the breaker, i felt under the planer section and the motor is very hot.? i think it tripped on high temperature.? Any thoughts on what I should look at or do?
Thanks,?
Annu
|
Yep that¡¯s the part! I bought mine in 2012 and paid Felder ?23.50 + vat!!! Bloody awful! Another example was my control transformer packed in and Felder wanted over ?400 inc... bought one from RS electrical for ?33 inc vat and posted. ? ? ?Perfect!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8 Jan 2021, at 14:41, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
?
Richard,
My sentiments are the same with my overhaul, factory parts if not the original restored, but the spares list is already over the ?700 mark and I need to be realistic about things like belts and bearings which can be sourced like for like from specialist
suppliers.
As to the high speed router spindle, its something I have always had mixed feelings about,?
its good for those large cutters that turn the router into something akin to a gyroscope, big moulding cutters and panel raisers.
Its also pretty handy when you are trying to do something a bit exotic on profile shapes.
I found the 15000 rpm to be an issue on smaller cutters and it always did sound like it was pushing the machine to its limit running something at that high an RPM.
The big win was always the saving on floor space in a small workshop over accommodating a free standing table.
Thanks Again Paul. I was just hoping to restore it as near as new as possible with original parts but hey ho!
I'd like a high speed moulder spindle for router bits but I guess these are more than buying a complete dedicated table router!
|
Re: WoodShop structure Slab vs pier and beam
Thanks a lot for all your feedbacks,
Looks like a beam and pier floor is possible if correctly supported. I also appreciate all the feedbacks about putting wood on top of a slab for older people :). In my case the issue is more about a slab not allowing storm water passing under and might require some costly retaining walls. A floor on pier and beam supported by pilling allow for water under. I am talking about hurricane type storm water, like a lot of water.
At least now I know I can do both.
Bill
|
Re: Maffel double miter fence
Hi James!?
Yeah, the MFA is a really neat fence. It's funny, you can catch glimpses of me in the video you posted (crossed arms, Snickers trousers). In this video I'm helping to demonstrate using the Mafell bandsaw for compound miters. Not bad for a first try. ?
The fence has a sort of eccentric motion as you swing it through the various miter degrees, so it's length compensated at any given degree, not just predetermined points. Really neat, but really best suited for 1x material, and it's indexed for the Mafell fences, if you change the fence it monkeys with the geometry and I'm sure you'd lose the length compensation.?
EDIT: The Mafell MFA has its stock short fences, but can utilize 1m fences that utilize flop stops. The 1m fences can be extended indefinitely using a joining bar, the 1m fence is marked to work with the MFA, but does not start at "0", so any extra extensions beyond the first will not be able to use the stock scale as applied by Mafell, though I suppose you could retrofit something for the fence extensions.?
For reference, I do own a ERIKA 70 with MFA and nearly every accessory, and when I ordered my KF700 I did opt for the Miter Index System with Length Compensation for larger pieces that I didn't think were suitable for cutting with the ERIKA....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
imran
Tom Gensmer