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Re: Bearing Replacement on KF7
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
If the Machine has been stood up for 8 years, then bearing grease has almost certainly dried out.
Extracting the shaft is not too difficult a task, however changing the bearings can prove a little challenging.? Having recently done this on my 6 series i would suggest this is a job for an engineering shop.
There are two bearings on the saw shaft with a spacing sleeve in between to prevent any alignment issues (I'll come to that later) the sleeve has been fitted to the shaft while hot so requires a large amount of force?(13.5
tonne on a hydraulic press) to remove .
Ideally you want someone who has an induction coil that will heat the sleeve more than the shaft to help get this off the shaft to change the inner bearing. Likewise, it will need to be heated before trying to refit so as not damage the shaft due to metal transfer.
The saw shaft is no longer available as a spare and the bearing spaced is ?45 this side of the pond.? so these ar parts it is preferable not to damage.
David is correct in stating that you should check the motor and the saw shaft bearing before disassembling anything as it could be either.
With regards to the alignment issue, it is relatively easy to eliminate the shaft from the equation.
If you check that the bearing on the saw side of the casting, it should be almost flush with the milled section on the top of the casting that the two hex head bearing retaining bolts and washers fit into,
if it proud then it's possible that the bearings have been changed previously and either not assembled correctly or not installed correctly.
The splitter arm mounts to the casting with two allen bolts and two roll pins for alignment, in the past if the bolts have worked loose then it is possible for dust to get down between the arm and the casting and push things out of alignment.
It would be worth removing the two bolts and separating the arm and the casting buy an 1/8 of an inch ang giving it a good clean and see if that resolves the issue.
I have attached the part drawing for the K7 saw albeit this slightly pre dates your machine.
I hope this helps
Paul
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of contact@... <contact@...>
Sent: 11 March 2021 23:08 To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: [FOG] Bearing Replacement on KF7 ?
I'm a new owner of a 1999 KF7F, I won it at an auction, all I know is that for the last 8 years its been stored in a shop unused. I've got a number of questions about getting it set up they way I would like with various accessories. But the current priority
is addressing a grinding sound coming out of the saw, somewhat intermittent but not going away, and probably getting worse. It started after a few weeks of use at my shop. Its probably a bearing, but before I take it all apart I'd like to know a little more
what I'm getting into. Mostly I'm worried about getting the blade back into an accurate position after the bearing is replaced.
Another issue, potentially related, is with the splitter. The saw came without the splitter, but when I installed a new one from Felder it was offset to the right of the blade by 1/32". I've shimmed it back, but I'm not sure where the issue is. Is the saw spindle offset, or is the arm holding the splitter bent or offset, or maybe the failed bearing is causing the problem. Any experience there would be helpful. And lastly, I'm happy to have found this forum. This is my first Felder purchase, and my first slider, so lots to get up to speed on. Thanks for any help. -Willis |
Home Inventory App
This came up on SMC and I need to do something to document everything in my workshop as well as my house and probably something more than doing a walkaround while making a video.? Does anybody have any recommendations on home inventory apps they use that aren't too onerous to enter and manage the information about each item?? I think taking pictures with the app but then using my computer to type in relevant information would be the easiest but I'm wondering if anybody else has broken the code on this?
Thanks, Dave Davies |
Re: Bearing Replacement on KF7
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
What bearings are bad, arbor or motor?? Take off the belt and isolate which bearings.? That is step one.?? Dave
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of contact@... <contact@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2021 6:08 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: [FOG] Bearing Replacement on KF7 ?
I'm a new owner of a 1999 KF7F, I won it at an auction, all I know is that for the last 8 years its been stored in a shop unused. I've got a number of questions about getting it set up they way I would like with various accessories. But the current priority
is addressing a grinding sound coming out of the saw, somewhat intermittent but not going away, and probably getting worse. It started after a few weeks of use at my shop. Its probably a bearing, but before I take it all apart I'd like to know a little more
what I'm getting into. Mostly I'm worried about getting the blade back into an accurate position after the bearing is replaced.
Another issue, potentially related, is with the splitter. The saw came without the splitter, but when I installed a new one from Felder it was offset to the right of the blade by 1/32". I've shimmed it back, but I'm not sure where the issue is. Is the saw spindle offset, or is the arm holding the splitter bent or offset, or maybe the failed bearing is causing the problem. Any experience there would be helpful. And lastly, I'm happy to have found this forum. This is my first Felder purchase, and my first slider, so lots to get up to speed on. Thanks for any help. -Willis |
Re: KF 700 not powering up
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýGood point Shawn. Also easy to miss a pushed in emergency stop. In my case there is a switch on blade/shaper sliding cover. Definitely should check stop switch circuit before going to caps. You can check for voltage (mine is 24VAC) in the string of switches. If you follow your schematic from voltage source end, then when voltage is present on input of switch and not on output, it is the bad switch. Imran On Mar 12, 2021, at 10:08 AM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Hi Jonathan, I¡¯ve had the same issue in the past with my ¡®08 KF700, and the culprit was a bad stop switch. You probably have three or four stop switches, two being mushrooms and one or two regular push buttons. The one that went bad on me was the main saw?stop?button. Since the stop buttons are all NC (normally closed), you can check them by taking the two wires out and twisting them together (bypassing the button) and seeing if the saw powers up. There¡¯s probably an easy way to check resistance with a voltmeter also.?Here¡¯s the replacement part from Grainger that I needed: ? Hope that helps! -Shawn
On Friday, March 12, 2021, 7:36 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:
<IMG_20210310_091033.jpg> <IMG_20210309_184709.jpg> |
Re: KF 700 not powering up
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJonathan, That light is in break board and solid on mine means good. It flashes 2 digit fault code if there is a problem. Have you inspected start/run capacitors? That would be my first guess. I thought you get a hum with a bad capacitor (no start) but I am not sure if that is always the case. Imran On Mar 12, 2021, at 9:36 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:
? <IMG_20210309_184709.jpg> <IMG_20210310_091033.jpg>
I'm a relatively new owner of a 2008 KF700. It's located in an off grid situation and is powered by a 10kw Honda ex10d? generator. (my solar powered inverter is 3kw and will not start it). My Electrical technician can't help as he is snowed under with work, so any helpful suggestions will be much appreciated. Jonathan. |
Re: KF 700 not powering up
Hi Jonathan,
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I¡¯ve had the same issue in the past with my ¡®08 KF700, and the culprit was a bad stop switch. You probably have three or four stop switches, two being mushrooms and one or two regular push buttons. The one that went bad on me was the main saw?stop?button. Since the stop buttons are all NC (normally closed), you can check them by taking the two wires out and twisting them together (bypassing the button) and seeing if the saw powers up. There¡¯s probably an easy way to check resistance with a voltmeter also.?Here¡¯s the replacement part from Grainger that I needed: ? Hope that helps! -Shawn On Friday, March 12, 2021, 7:36 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:
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KF 700 not powering up
I'm a relatively new owner of a 2008 KF700. It's located in an off grid situation and is powered by a 10kw Honda ex10d? generator. (my solar powered inverter is 3kw and will not start it). My Electrical technician can't help as he is snowed under with work, so any helpful suggestions will be much appreciated. Jonathan. |
Re: FB 610 vs 710
#whatmachinetobuy
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMike, Thanks for casters details. Now that I am pretty sure where the saw will reside I do not need it on mobile base or casters however I still would like to be able to move it. So skids like Shinta are most suitable. BTW, mine is also Lagana, LT16 model. I never thought much about it but seems like being higher may be another plus. Shinta, Yes, I am concerned with tripping so will need to think a bit. Since I plan to go from side, perhaps I can make the rear skid longer for stability. Where it is located, the long rear skid won¡¯t be a huge trip hazard and also be out of the way while using it. Imran On Mar 12, 2021, at 12:48 AM, Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io <vnh84@...> wrote:
?Dave, The railroad track is one of my anvils for messing around with metals and for building biceps!? :) Imran, Given the dimension of the FB710's base, the wooden base works out perfect for a narrow-fork pallet jack with 4-foot forks.? I went cheap and built it from the crate material of the bandsaw, but so far, it has been sturdy enough to support the FB710 during operation and moving.? Though, I only move the saw for blade changes, which is infrequent.?? Mike, I have similar casters on a Hammer A3-31.? They works well for moving the A3-31 on a flat concrete floor.? The FB710 is a whole lot heavier with a higher center of gravity.? I am not sure, but those casters may make it difficult to move the FB710 around.? Also, they may not be able to be installed underneath the FB710's base (see picture), unless you weld additional corner triangle/square plate to the base's corners.?? <FB710_base_bottomview.JPG> SW |
Re: FB 610 vs 710
#whatmachinetobuy
Dave,
The railroad track is one of my anvils for messing around with metals and for building biceps!? :) Imran, Given the dimension of the FB710's base, the wooden base works out perfect for a narrow-fork pallet jack with 4-foot forks.? I went cheap and built it from the crate material of the bandsaw, but so far, it has been sturdy enough to support the FB710 during operation and moving.? Though, I only move the saw for blade changes, which is infrequent.?? Mike, I have similar casters on a Hammer A3-31.? They works well for moving the A3-31 on a flat concrete floor.? The FB710 is a whole lot heavier with a higher center of gravity.? I am not sure, but those casters may make it difficult to move the FB710 around.? Also, they may not be able to be installed underneath the FB710's base (see picture), unless you weld additional corner triangle/square plate to the base's corners.?? SW |
Re: FB 610 vs 710
#whatmachinetobuy
Here are small footmaster brand leveling casters on a Laguna 14 along with a different brand small and larger one for reference. Major drawback is the need to crawl around and adjust when relocating. Main benefit is not expanding the machine footprint with something else to trip on.?
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Re: FB 610 vs 710
#whatmachinetobuy
Thank you Shinta for the missing dimension and photos.? ? |
Re: FB 610 vs 710
#whatmachinetobuy
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýShinta, Thanks for the pics of the bandsaw base. For the past few days I have been background processing what to do with my bandsaw which is currently sitting in a mobile base that I hate. I think I know now what to do. My saw is small so probably will access from side instead of front. Imran On Mar 11, 2021, at 8:47 PM, Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io <vnh84@...> wrote:
?Mike, The FB710 is about 51.5" deep from back of the spine column to the edge of the cast iron table, which is 33 x 27.5 inches with you standing at the infeed side.? Table height is about 36".? Mine sits on a 4-inch-tall base so I can move it around using my pallet jack.? For an average height person, the height of the table at 40 inches (saw + base) is comfortable.? The cast iron table's edge is about 6.5 inches from the column.? There is sheet metal small extension table to cover the infeed space between cast iron table and column.? I attach pictures.?? I have the mechanical foot brake, which I rarely use.? I just let the saw coast to a stop.? If you open the top fly wheel door while it is under power, there is a switch to cut power to the saw.? If the door is open, the saw won't start.? The bottom door opens in tandem with the top door.? So far, I am pleased with the resaw performance with a 1-inch Woodmaster CT.? It has become my favorite way for ripping.?? SW <FB710_table_height.jpg> <FB710_depth.jpg> <FB710_table_to_column.jpg> <FB710_table.jpg> <FB710_base.jpg>
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Re: Felder Dado and Shaper cutter questions
Bill B. I do believe we have the same saw, if my memory is there, Have you used the program in the saw to do your dado's at first i thought? of it as not much but I found it to be quite good at single dado and repetitive dado's, I think it works with the dado cutters too if Felder but haven't checked that out yet. Glen Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc. Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247 ????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507 On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 7:46 AM Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
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Re: FB 610 vs 710
#whatmachinetobuy
?What do you have going on with the piece of railroad track? Dave Davies On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 7:47 PM Shinta Wakahisa via <vnh84=[email protected]> wrote: Mike, --
Dave & Marie Davies 318-219-7868 |
Re: FB 610 vs 710
#whatmachinetobuy
Mike,
The FB710 is about 51.5" deep from back of the spine column to the edge of the cast iron table, which is 33 x 27.5 inches with you standing at the infeed side.? Table height is about 36".? Mine sits on a 4-inch-tall base so I can move it around using my pallet jack.? For an average height person, the height of the table at 40 inches (saw + base) is comfortable.? The cast iron table's edge is about 6.5 inches from the column.? There is sheet metal small extension table to cover the infeed space between cast iron table and column.? I attach pictures.?? I have the mechanical foot brake, which I rarely use.? I just let the saw coast to a stop.? If you open the top fly wheel door while it is under power, there is a switch to cut power to the saw.? If the door is open, the saw won't start.? The bottom door opens in tandem with the top door.? So far, I am pleased with the resaw performance with a 1-inch Woodmaster CT.? It has become my favorite way for ripping.?? SW |
Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?
I get that David's response was tongue in cheek as was mine but I thought in a group such as this the methods to prevent drift would be well known. This what I do.........
Install the widest blade you have Track and tension it to your needs Back off all guides? Attach a straight edge to the blade I use magnets and a STRAIGHT steel rule. The magnet is placed behind the gullet so it sits flat on the blade. Loosen the table holding bolts so the table can be moved around Align the mitre slot parallel to the steel rule? Tighten the table bolts Align the fence to the mitre slot or blade,? Reset the guides to your preference.? If using a good blade you will now have no drift and if drift occurs blame the blade.? If all blades are installed the same, crown wheeled centred, flat wheel on the edge of the wheel then the drift adjustments just done will still be accurate.? Eliminating drift allows for a table sled to be used which is a very handy thing on BS's? |
Re: Fiama magnetic tape alternatives
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI would not use tape from another brand, the pole spacing could be different. I have the banding, and currently sell it for $90 per meter ($27.50 approx. per foot). I¡¯m running low, so will have to order more soon, and I sure as heck hope I don¡¯t get charged $64 per foot! I do buy 25 meter rolls though, so hopefully the pricing won¡¯t be what you are quoting.
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