Re: DPST required for On button remote switch for Hammer K3?
You're right, Imran - there could be a scenario where 24V AC is used for the control elements, especially if there are starter circuits/relays/contactors involved...those can be AC as well as DC.?
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Re: DPST required for On button remote switch for Hammer K3?
?Sang Luu,
“?The more sophisticated (maybe?) Felder machines with digital or electric control of things (blade angle, height) will have 24V DC level components (such as switches, etc). ”
My 2001 KF700 with everything manual has 24VAC circuit for on/off, Estop & safety switches. From reading posts here for a long time it appears to be a standard Felder circuit irrespective of level of electronics.
Imran
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On Jan 11, 2022, at 5:49 PM, Sang Luu <sangluu@...> wrote: ?Looking at the Hammer K3 machine images at the website, I suspect that the switches for both On/Off and E-Stop are not 24V DC especially if there are no special control electronics within the machine itself.?
The more sophisticated (maybe?) Felder machines with digital or electric control of things (blade angle, height) will have 24V DC level components (such as switches, etc).?
Assuming line-level (120/240v) electrics in the Hammer, adding remote options for both the On/Off and E-Stop feature is a matter of thinking through whether to use a relay & contactor or some other system like the aforementioned Schneider Harmony wireless platform (which is basically a Zigbee based relay system). Another option would be to re-wire up the power-on leg like a 3-way light switch, again assuming line-level electrics.?
If it is 24 V DC based, you will find a controller in the machine, which you would interface with new 24V switches (probably all momentary NO, except the e-stop which is captive and NC).?
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And also, the previous owner told me "DO NOT TOUCH THESE BOLTS YOU WILL BE SORRY", which is probably adding to my adjustment anxiety. :-)
Yes! The?self inflicted wounds are not THAT deep. :-) Did you leave the bolts attached to the saw when removing the slider?? On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 1:50 PM Bob Wise < bob@...> wrote: My new to me and loving cared for 2006 k700s (bought from neighbor) is in need of a slight adjustment, I think. Everything seems to cut square, but with a piece tightly?clamped to the slider, it rubs quite hard on the table.?
Am I going to get into trouble here by making some very slight adjustments to the table height with a dial indicator on the slider? Only asking because the discussions here are anxiety causing w.r.t. to making adjustments and how tricky it is. I'm completely comfortable tuning machine tools with proper instruments, e.g. jointer blades, planer blades, mill tramming, etc.?
Also, is it normal for a gentle move to bump this kind of thing out of spec? We moved the saw from next door carefully and with no incident (I used a pro rigger) but we did take the slider?off and put it back on again.
-Bob
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Re: DPST required for On button remote switch for Hammer K3?
If your system is 240 V, it would make sense to switch both hot lines at once for the power-on, thus DPST.?
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On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 01:46 PM, joe slater wrote:
does anyone know why they have a DPST for the On button?
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Re: DPST required for On button remote switch for Hammer K3?
Looking at the Hammer K3 machine images at the website, I suspect that the switches for both On/Off and E-Stop are not 24V DC especially if there are no special control electronics within the machine itself.?
The more sophisticated (maybe?) Felder machines with digital or electric control of things (blade angle, height) will have 24V DC level components (such as switches, etc).?
Assuming line-level (120/240v) electrics in the Hammer, adding remote options for both the On/Off and E-Stop feature is a matter of thinking through whether to use a relay & contactor or some other system like the aforementioned Schneider Harmony wireless platform (which is basically a Zigbee based relay system). Another option would be to re-wire up the power-on leg like a 3-way light switch, again assuming line-level electrics.?
If it is 24 V DC based, you will find a controller in the machine, which you would interface with new 24V switches (probably all momentary NO, except the e-stop which is captive and NC).?
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That series is gold, thanks for sharing!
My new to me and loving cared for 2006 k700s (bought from neighbor) is in need of a slight adjustment, I think. Everything seems to cut square, but with a piece tightly?clamped to the slider, it rubs quite hard on the table.?
Am I going to get into trouble here by making some very slight adjustments to the table height with a dial indicator on the slider? Only asking because the discussions here are anxiety causing w.r.t. to making adjustments and how tricky it is. I'm completely comfortable tuning machine tools with proper instruments, e.g. jointer blades, planer blades, mill tramming, etc.?
I have produced a complete series of videos on sliding table alignment.? You can find them here: ??? Also, is it normal for a gentle move to bump this kind of thing out of spec? We moved the saw from next door carefully and with no incident (I used a pro rigger) but we did take the slider?off and put it back on again.
Most likely your floor has a different contour and the chassis flexed some causing the cast iron top to maybe twist and the slider to be misaligned.? The video series above should help diagnose that the cast iron table is coplanar and how to adjust the sliding table.
Hope this helps.? Post back here if you need more help or get in trouble.
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Yes! The?self inflicted wounds are not THAT deep. :-)
Did you leave the bolts attached to the saw when removing the slider?? On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 1:50 PM Bob Wise < bob@...> wrote: My new to me and loving cared for 2006 k700s (bought from neighbor) is in need of a slight adjustment, I think. Everything seems to cut square, but with a piece tightly?clamped to the slider, it rubs quite hard on the table.?
Am I going to get into trouble here by making some very slight adjustments to the table height with a dial indicator on the slider? Only asking because the discussions here are anxiety causing w.r.t. to making adjustments and how tricky it is. I'm completely comfortable tuning machine tools with proper instruments, e.g. jointer blades, planer blades, mill tramming, etc.?
Also, is it normal for a gentle move to bump this kind of thing out of spec? We moved the saw from next door carefully and with no incident (I used a pro rigger) but we did take the slider?off and put it back on again.
-Bob
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Re: Aftermarket Digital Rip Fence?
+1 to David's F&F suggestion, it never gets old!? Dan - I think a good question to ask about retrofitting or aftermarket options, etc. is how willing (prepared maybe?) are you with respect DIYing a solution. If you're looking to get a saw to use for production and can't afford to tinker, the best way to go is to get it as close to what you want from the get-go. Else, you'll end up spending either lots more $$$ or time (or both) to making it the way you had envisioned.? That said, there are commercial, non-Felder solutions for retrofitting both the rip side and crosscut side. These options have been raised elsewhere on this great forum:? FWIW, I've been working on a DIY right of blade automated fence stop for at least 2yrs now :), not sure when I'll finish or if I ever will; been busy building cabinets!?I've got the layout screens and the faceplate of the control unit done, but still a long way to go!?   ? 
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Wooden Slides for Dinning Table
I am replacing some broken wooden slides on a dinning table and would like to know of a source here in the US. The table is 1 ? thick oak and 42 inches in diameter with 2 each - 15 inch wide leaves. Any advice / help for sourcing is appreciated.
Regards,
Tom Goodman
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Voltage/Current/Frequency Display
When I built my RPC (20 yrs ago) I wanted to add a voltage display for all 3 phases but never got around to it. I now use phase perfect so not really concerned about the voltage. Anyhow, on my recent trip to Pakistan I noted that in newer homes the electrical panels have LED voltage displays. I meant to pick a few of these from Pakistan but it slipped my mind.
So upon returning, I looked and found a few choices. Since I wanted 3 and since it is really a want (as opposed to need) I did not want to spend a lot of money. So I thought I will try Ali Express. I ordered 7 thinking I will get 3 good ones and that is exactly what I ended with.
All 7 read voltage within 2% spec and frequency is right on but none of them are really 2% on current. It is possible that current accuracy will improve with higher current. It is rated for 0-100A and I am only running 5A to 6A. Anyhow, I am reading current with accuracy around 3% to 8%. Good enough for me.
Pic below shows installation
and here is my latest shop bling
Imran
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My new to me and loving cared for 2006 k700s (bought from neighbor) is in need of a slight adjustment, I think. Everything seems to cut square, but with a piece tightly?clamped to the slider, it rubs quite hard on the table.?
Am I going to get into trouble here by making some very slight adjustments to the table height with a dial indicator on the slider? Only asking because the discussions here are anxiety causing w.r.t. to making adjustments and how tricky it is. I'm completely comfortable tuning machine tools with proper instruments, e.g. jointer blades, planer blades, mill tramming, etc.?
I have produced a complete series of videos on sliding table alignment. ?You can find them here: ??? Also, is it normal for a gentle move to bump this kind of thing out of spec? We moved the saw from next door carefully and with no incident (I used a pro rigger) but we did take the slider?off and put it back on again.
Most likely your floor has a different contour and the chassis flexed some causing the cast iron top to maybe twist and the slider to be misaligned. ?The video series above should help diagnose that the cast iron table is coplanar and how to adjust the sliding table.
Hope this helps. ?Post back here if you need more help or get in trouble.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Did you leave the bolts attached to the saw when removing the slider??
On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 1:50 PM Bob Wise < bob@...> wrote: My new to me and loving cared for 2006 k700s (bought from neighbor) is in need of a slight adjustment, I think. Everything seems to cut square, but with a piece tightly?clamped to the slider, it rubs quite hard on the table.?
Am I going to get into trouble here by making some very slight adjustments to the table height with a dial indicator on the slider? Only asking because the discussions here are anxiety causing w.r.t. to making adjustments and how tricky it is. I'm completely comfortable tuning machine tools with proper instruments, e.g. jointer blades, planer blades, mill tramming, etc.?
Also, is it normal for a gentle move to bump this kind of thing out of spec? We moved the saw from next door carefully and with no incident (I used a pro rigger) but we did take the slider?off and put it back on again.
-Bob
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My new to me and loving cared for 2006 k700s (bought from neighbor) is in need of a slight adjustment, I think. Everything seems to cut square, but with a piece tightly?clamped to the slider, it rubs quite hard on the table.?
Am I going to get into trouble here by making some very slight adjustments to the table height with a dial indicator on the slider? Only asking because the discussions here are anxiety causing w.r.t. to making adjustments and how tricky it is. I'm completely comfortable tuning machine tools with proper instruments, e.g. jointer blades, planer blades, mill tramming, etc.?
Also, is it normal for a gentle move to bump this kind of thing out of spec? We moved the saw from next door carefully and with no incident (I used a pro rigger) but we did take the slider?off and put it back on again.
-Bob
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
I got the detailed dimensions from David Best's post and did exactly (wooden block) what David Best said, every woodworker should be able to do it :)
James
Have you all considered 3D printing just the plug-end of the thing that friction fits into the crosscut fence extrusion, and letting the individual users make their own Splinter tongue out of wood that attaches to the plug-end with a couple of screws? ?
You guys are all woodworkers, can make wooden blocks and drill holes, right?? You might want other end-blocks for angled cut support, or you might damage one, etc. ?
When I did my design, I specifically wanted a replaceable end-block for these reasons.? Below are a few photos of my original concept, and more details are here including a dimensioned drawing of the DRO fence profile to make your own block: ?? ?Seems to me that it would be simple enough to just 3D print the plug with threaded holes included, and let people make what ever end-effector they want for it.? Just my two cents.
On Jan 11, 2022, at 11:30 AM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Here is a picture of the two different fence extrusions (well, the current X-roll, DRO and Non-DRO). The Larger DRO unit fence is on the left, the smaller, non-DRO is on the right. Two different animals….
On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:19 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Correct, for the NON-DRO model, I didn’t do a design for the large DRO fences with the split stud mounting. If folks figure out the distances, I’ll re-design both with enough meat on the end to be trimmed.?
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Good point.? Didn't think about that.? My Bad.? I'd better remember to check that saw now.? Dave
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That would also mean recalibrating the extension portion of the fence, not worth the trouble. I just uploaded a 2.5” long version that should work for everybody with the Non DRO fence.
On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:53 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Are the tapes glued in place on those machines?? My slider has a tape on a metal backing and can be adjusted so fence can be moved to fit the insert and the tape moved to match the cut.? Dave
So far I have heard 2” and 2 3/8” long to the blade, so roughly 61mm for 2.375”. I can re-design the model accordingly, just don’t want the next guy saying 2.5”. You will need to print at least the last 1” or so solid.
On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:36 PM, Bill Belanger < Bill@...> wrote:
The DRO version on the left fits my Kappa 400 and one other person’s so far. The Non DRO on right I have not been able to get any feedback on.
<image_123927839.JPG>
On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 12:30 Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Here is a picture of the two different fence extrusions (well, the current X-roll, DRO and Non-DRO). The Larger DRO unit fence is on the left, the smaller, non-DRO is on the right. Two different animals….
On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:19 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Correct, for the NON-DRO model, I didn’t do a design for the large DRO fences with the split stud mounting. If folks figure out the distances, I’ll re-design both with enough meat on the end to be trimmed.?
On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:11 PM, Bill Belanger < Bill@...> wrote:
Brian,
What you see with the holes is the one you labeled the newest.
Bill
Thats doesn’t look like the proper fence extrusion for the non DRO stop, I think that’s the DRO version. Try printing the other model.
Hi. Here are some pictures of my situation. It did need to be a little longer as per pics and I had to trim the width of the tongue where it fits in extrusion. I gave a kappa 400. Trimming width was easy and then I just threaded a 5/16
bolt in to expand the flanges and hold it tight. The only change that is harder to adjust for is the overall length to reach saw blade.? I need another 5/16 inch. Extra long is easy to deal with.?
Elwin
<image.jpg><image.jpg><image.jpg><image.jpg><image.jpg>
On Jan 11, 2022, at 09:55, Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
Right, so it looks like I will need a measurement from the saw owner before I print anymore. I thought these should be standard.
Hold the presses! ?
Bill Belanger?
On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 09:45 Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
No problem, there are so many variations in this stuff though, creates a major pain in the butt.
Sorry Brian, just trying to make a suggestion that might work for everyone.
?I have zero interest in a 3d printed splinter tongue so I should have stayed out of it, my apologies?
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Yes.? That was meant as a joke.? I guess the smiley face didn't
come through?
There should be a smiley here:? ?
There was one at the end of my original response.
On 1/11/2022 12:00 PM,
david@... via groups.io wrote:
You are joking right? ?You can’t drill a decent hole 1-inch long?
David Best
On Jan 11, 2022, at 11:59 AM, Michael Garrison
Stuber < mtgstuber@...>
wrote:
David,
??? I think you forget that Felder doesn't
make drill presses.? We can make wooden blocks, but
drilling holes?? Nah.? That's a problem.? ?
--Michael
Have you all considered 3D printing just the plug-end
of the thing that friction fits into the crosscut
fence extrusion, and letting the individual users make
their own Splinter tongue out of wood that attaches to
the plug-end with a couple of screws? ?
You guys are all woodworkers, can make
wooden blocks and drill holes, right? ?You might
want other end-blocks for angled cut support, or you
might damage one, etc. ?
When I did my design, I specifically
wanted a replaceable end-block for these reasons.
?Below are a few photos of my original concept, and
more details are here including a dimensioned
drawing of the DRO fence profile to make your own
block: ??
?Seems to me that it would be simple enough to just
3D print the plug with threaded holes included, and
let people make what ever end-effector they want for
it. ?Just my two cents.
<22802891114_954e79aa2f_k.jpeg>
<23063276589_ce61d5492f_k.jpeg>
<34882584116_40e05fa7b0_k.jpeg>
On Jan 11, 2022, at 11:30 AM,
Brian Lamb < blamb11@...>
wrote:
Here is a picture of the two
different fence extrusions (well, the
current X-roll, DRO and Non-DRO). The
Larger DRO unit fence is on the left,
the smaller, non-DRO is on the right.
Two different animals….
<IMG_4940.jpeg>
On Jan 11, 2022, at
12:19 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...>
wrote:
Correct,
for the NON-DRO model, I didn’t
do a design for the large DRO
fences with the split stud
mounting. If folks figure out
the distances, I’ll re-design
both with enough meat on the end
to be trimmed.?
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
That wouldn’t really work too well as the plug that slides in is in four separate portions, so it will expand. Could make the first part of it solid, but then cone point set set screws are only available to 1.25”, just a can of worms. They come in/out so easily, if you want others for different angles and situations, print more.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Have you all considered 3D printing just the plug-end of the thing that friction fits into the crosscut fence extrusion, and letting the individual users make their own Splinter tongue out of wood that attaches to the plug-end with a couple of screws? ?
You guys are all woodworkers, can make wooden blocks and drill holes, right? ?You might want other end-blocks for angled cut support, or you might damage one, etc. ?
When I did my design, I specifically wanted a replaceable end-block for these reasons. ?Below are a few photos of my original concept, and more details are here including a dimensioned drawing of the DRO fence profile to make your own block: ?? ?Seems to me that it would be simple enough to just 3D print the plug with threaded holes included, and let people make what ever end-effector they want for it. ?Just my two cents.
<22802891114_954e79aa2f_k.jpeg>
<23063276589_ce61d5492f_k.jpeg>
<34882584116_40e05fa7b0_k.jpeg>
On Jan 11, 2022, at 11:30 AM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Here is a picture of the two different fence extrusions (well, the current X-roll, DRO and Non-DRO). The Larger DRO unit fence is on the left, the smaller, non-DRO is on the right. Two different animals….
<IMG_4940.jpeg>
On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:19 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Correct, for the NON-DRO model, I didn’t do a design for the large DRO fences with the split stud mounting. If folks figure out the distances, I’ll re-design both with enough meat on the end to be trimmed.?
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File /3D Printer Files/Non DRO stepped V2 2.5 inch long.stl uploaded
#file-notice
The following files have been uploaded to
the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: Brian Lamb <blamb11@...>
Description:
2.5" long version
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
That would also mean recalibrating the extension portion of the fence, not worth the trouble. I just uploaded a 2.5” long version that should work for everybody with the Non DRO fence.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:53 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Are the tapes glued in place on those machines?? My slider has a tape on a metal backing and can be adjusted so fence can be moved to fit the insert and the tape moved to match the cut.? Dave
So far I have heard 2” and 2 3/8” long to the blade, so roughly 61mm for 2.375”. I can re-design the model accordingly, just don’t want the next guy saying 2.5”. You will need to print at least the last 1” or so solid. On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:36 PM, Bill Belanger < Bill@...> wrote:
The DRO version on the left fits my Kappa 400 and one other person’s so far. The Non DRO on right I have not been able to get any feedback on. <image_123927839.JPG> On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 12:30 Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Here is a picture of the two different fence extrusions (well, the current X-roll, DRO and Non-DRO). The Larger DRO unit fence is on the left, the smaller, non-DRO is on the right. Two different animals…. On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:19 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Correct, for the NON-DRO model, I didn’t do a design for the large DRO fences with the split stud mounting. If folks figure out the distances, I’ll re-design both with enough meat on the end to be trimmed.? On Jan 11, 2022, at 12:11 PM, Bill Belanger < Bill@...> wrote:
Brian, What you see with the holes is the one you labeled the newest.
Bill
Thats doesn’t look like the proper fence extrusion for the non DRO stop, I think that’s the DRO version. Try printing the other model.
Hi. Here are some pictures of my situation. It did need to be a little longer as per pics and I had to trim the width of the tongue where it fits in extrusion. I gave a kappa 400. Trimming width was easy and then I just threaded a 5/16 bolt in to expand the flanges and hold it tight. The only change that is harder to adjust for is the overall length to reach saw blade.? I need another 5/16 inch. Extra long is easy to deal with.? Elwin
<image.jpg><image.jpg><image.jpg><image.jpg><image.jpg>
On Jan 11, 2022, at 09:55, Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
Right, so it looks like I will need a measurement from the saw owner before I print anymore. I thought these should be standard. Hold the presses! ? Bill Belanger?
On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 09:45 Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: No problem, there are so many variations in this stuff though, creates a major pain in the butt.
Sorry Brian, just trying to make a suggestion that might work for everyone.
?I have zero interest in a 3d printed splinter tongue so I should have stayed out of it, my apologies?
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
? Here is another wood version for the nose, visual instructions to build your own in about 1 hr…
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On Jan 11, 2022, at 3:02 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Guess you need a new search engine: ??
David Best
On Jan 11, 2022, at 11:58 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
On 1/11/22 11:44 AM, Brian Lamb wrote: there are so many variations in this stuff though
OK,? I give up. I admit defeat.? I can't find "Splinter Tongue" on the Web. What is a splinter tongue?
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Sang Luu
imran
David P. Best