Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- Felderownersgroup
- Messages
Search
Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
I sure hope they take better care of the product in Sacramento than in Dallas. Good luck Rohit. Sent from for iOS On Fri, May 16, 2025 at 18:14, Rohit Kulshreshtha via groups.io <rohit.in.pune@...> wrote:
publicKey - [email protected] - 0xCAA04E5D.asc
publicKey - [email protected] - 0xCAA04E5D.asc
signature.asc
signature.asc
|
Re: OT: Teknatools USA affiliate (maker of Nova drill presses) files for CH 11 reorganization
I managed to snap off the speed control knob at the rotary encoder stem while mounting the drill press head to the column. I reached out teknatool earlier this week and they¡¯re shipping me a replacement board and knob early next week. |
Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
Sorry to hear that Stan. It¡¯s kind silly that packaging is an afterthought on such expensive machine. ?I hope Felder does the right thing soon and you¡¯re back to enjoying your new toy. Keep us posted.
?
My saw would¡¯ve arrived in California today. It should be on its way to me soon.
? |
Re: Fixing Felder X-roll short cross cut fence T-nut - AKA group buy of improved T-nut
Hi Wedge,
?
sorry, I missed your question.
currently it looks like we have only 2 people who are interested in the two machines configuration (that has upgraded flip lever).
I would need to ask the metal shop what is the cost of making 4-5 of those flip stops.
I initially enquired about a minimum of 20 flip stops (assuming at least 10 will be 2-machine) Having said that, is there any specific reason you want the flip stop? I don¡¯t really see an advantage with a single machine? |
Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
Oh I am definitely not going to let that.... slide. Upon opening the main pallet I discovered that the xcut fence was not secured to the chassis so I now have a scratched chassis (whatever) and potential issue with the fence (attached). Does this look bad? I do not know if the bottom surface is supposed to be machined or just an aluminum extrusion I could buff out. Sent from for iOS On Fri, May 16, 2025 at 13:46, PK <pk@...> wrote:
publicKey - [email protected] - 0xCAA04E5D.asc
publicKey - [email protected] - 0xCAA04E5D.asc
signature.asc
signature.asc
|
Re: Fixing Felder X-roll short cross cut fence T-nut - AKA group buy of improved T-nut
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI never received any confirmation or solid answers to my questions from Netanel. ?I¡¯m assuming you must have had enough people opting in on this endeavor. ?But, I was still waiting on my questions regarding the flip lever upgrade for a single order. ? Wade On May 16, 2025, at 4:56?PM, Craig Bayer via groups.io <cbayer57@...> wrote:
|
Re: Shaper Power Feeder Issues
Thank you all for the advice and pointers and saving me from more frustration!
?
Managed to eliminate the snipe by pulling the outfeed fence forward by around 1/16" (had to play around with this) and adjusting the power feeder.??
?
On the next project will look into making the outboard fence and I actually did look into the shaper class out in Colorado...someday!
?
Kamal Patel
?
? |
Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThere is no excuse for this, but Felder has a history of poor packaging processes. ? You should demand a replacement sliding table. ?Take lots of photos.David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
|
Re: Feedback on the sliding saw selection
So my new toy was delivered by ABF today, on a flatbed with a piggyback forklift. The driver graciously agreed to maneuver it into my garage so the pallet is level and I can use the usual tricks to get it off. All is good with the world...
?
...except the sliding table was clearly crated by a drunk monkey. Eight 2 1/2" screws, four on each side, to attach a 2x4 to a sheet of OSB. Went all the way through the cardboard box the table comes in. Seven have apparently missed the target, but one did not and left a beautiful, deep gash right in the first quarter of the nine foot table.
?
The mind boggles. |
Re: Shaper Power Feeder Issues
Hi Kamal,
?
I've been reading the comments you have received from this thread. ?You have received some great advice and excellent tips for this particular issue. ?But this is the tip of the iceberg in terms of what is possible with the shaper.
?
I'm certainly not the authority on shapers, however among those that commented on your project, Joe Calhoon certainly qualifies as that authority. ?I don't want to take anything away from any of the other contributors, simply because I don't know their level of expertise.
?
With that said, you can truly up your game with the use of the shaper by taking some classes with Alpineworkshops.com. ?Joe Calhoon teaches the classes in Ouray, Colorado with logistics support provided by Greg Godbout of Rangate. ?The classes are typically limited to 6 students. ?They focus on a particular subject like lift and slide doors, for example. ?However no subject is off limits and both Joe and Greg provide plenty of time to explore almost anything shaper related.
?
Probably the most important thing you will learn in the Alpine classes, is how to SAFELY use the shaper in your shop, and still get the results you desire. ?I've taken the full series of classes Alpine offers. ?There is so much information passed on each class, that it is impossible to retain it all. ?So, take lots of notes and photos. ?Joe's classes are truly worth the time and money.
?
I'm sure many on this forum will suggest the same!
?
A.
?
|
Re: Shaper Power Feeder Issues
A false zero fence can be helpful here especially for short stock. I generally don¡¯t use them for cutters in the 160mm diameter or so but some of the storm proof cutters for doors and windows are in the 200mm diameter range. This gets the fence opening pretty large and prone to mishaps.
For these to work your main fence needs to still be dialed in as described before. These can be made by running the material through the planer halfway to remove 1mm (or 1/16¡±). I usually do not try to make it totally zero and depending on the cutter, rough out the opening with the bandsaw and careful back the fence into the cutter. Easer with a pinned or automatic fence. Pictures should be self explanatory. |
Re: Shaper Power Feeder Issues
Yes if you were removing 1/16 and the fences not offset you will certainly get snipe at the end. On Felder shapers since it¡¯s the outfeed fence that adjusts its very simple to hand feed a piece in a bit past the outfeed fence and simply adjust the outfeed till it just kisses the piece.
First though check to see if the fences are coplainer to each other. Think of them as your jointer tables. Straight edge and feeler gauge works well for this. Also both fence plates square to the cast table. Felder shapers are time consuming to make these adjustments but totally necessary to get good results. Feeder wheels should be slightly lower by 1.5 mm or so on the outfeed side. Once all these adjustments are dialed in it¡¯s pretty simple to trouble shoot. Snipe at leading edge means outfeed fence goes back- snipe at back edge means outfeed fence comes forward. Micro adjustment of the fence is important for this as is usually only 0.1 or0.2mm movement required. If your shaper fence does not have this feature you are probably better off to put effort into an outboard fence. |
Re: Shaper Power Feeder Issues
?
Yes, it's hard to tell in pics, but it looked like your fences were in line with each other.? Bumping the outfeed out 1/16 will help with a lot of the snipe but verify with your next test that the leading edge is no longer pulling away from the fence when the tailing edge leaves the infeed.? A simple pressure/feather board there might help if that's still an issue, but I'd still want to know it's happening and look into it.
?
? |
Re: Shaper Power Feeder Issues
If this was just an issue of the outfeed fence not being positioned correctly to receive the component after a full face sticking cut, you wouldn't typically see the leading edge shoved away from the fence as described in the OP, you would just get snipe. I expect that may be happening as well, but according to the OP something is causing the trailing edge to be actively driven into the cutterhead, not just sideways until it meets an improperly positioned outfeed fence.??
?
Kamal, when the stock is feeding, is it right against the outfeed fence along its whole length up to the point that the stock leaves the infeed?? If you see a small gap then that's a decent indicator your outfeed needs to be bumped out.? Depending on how severe it is, you may also have a hard time keeping the tailing edge up against in infeed fence too.? In the pics it looks like they are perfectly in line with each other though it's hard to tell from pics. Most folks run a staggered split fence which is also a form of "jointing" fence.??
?
Check the distance from the bottom of the feeder wheels to the shaper table and verify they're the same and that the spring pressure is also the same on all three.? If one is providing a lot more down pressure than the others then it can effectively act as a pivot point during slippage causing all kinds of problems, including what you are seeing.
?
It's hard to tell from the pics, but is your middle wheel opposite the fence opening or downstream of it?? Remember they swing backwards a bit when loaded with stock pressure.
?
The outboard fence for this has many advantages but you certainly can get excellent results from a split fence if set up well.
?
B |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss