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Thanks folks - I won¡¯t be going to Felder for these, they¡¯ve had enough of my hard earned cash for a while!?
I will most likely make a couple from Aluminium, I was hoping there were some cheap ones easily available in the UK, but it seems not so I¡¯ll just make some.
I like the look of the Kreg auto clamps - funnily enough I was just saying on mother forum that I had enough clamps (heresy I know, you can never have enough clamps), but clearly I need to buy some more!
Hope you all have a great weekend. I¡¯ve spent part of today cutting out shadow foam for the tools I¡¯m putting in the new drawers I¡¯ve built for under the B3.
Regards,
Morgan
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On 7 Feb 2025, at 19:03, Jacques Gagnon via groups.io <jacques.gagnon309@...> wrote:
?
[Edited Message Follows]
[Reason: typo]
Morgan,
?
I have made wooden blocks similar to what John showed, milling a long piece to have spare parts as required, as Jonathan mentioned.
?
The width of the top of the groove on the Hammer is 11 mm, so the block is slightly narrower than what John shows. Threaded inserts work, but you need to be accurate otherwise parts of the thread will punch through the sidewalls. Should that happen, get
rid of the problem using a file.
?
J.
|
When I took my first woodworking classes, our instructor recommended DBS (Drawer Box Specialties) in Orange, CA.? He told us they could make drawers cheaper and more quickly than he (or we) could.? He was running a successful high end custom kitchen/bath company.? I know they shipped locally--no idea about nationwide.
I learned woodworking as a post-retirement hobby and do mostly reproduction 18th century museum pieces.? I have a Leigh D4R still in its box.? My dovetails are hand cut except for the DBS ones that are part of a vanity I built as part of that cabinet class and brought with me when I moved east.? I can vouch for the quality of those pre-built drawers if one is using some sort of drawer hardware.? ? Jeff
On Fri, Feb 7, 2025 at 2:04?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: | |
Mark is an old customer of mine and has an amazing manufacturing co in Michigan.
He produces very high quality products.
Best mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
?
Years ago used Barker Cabinets ().? They typically provide full cabs but recall them also offering select parts.
?
Kamal Patel
|
| |
Mark is an old customer of mine and has an amazing manufacturing co in Michigan.He produces very high quality products.
Best mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
On Feb 7, 2025, at 9:36?AM, KRPatel via groups.io <kamalsonal@...> wrote:
?
Years ago used Barker Cabinets ().? They typically provide full cabs but recall them also offering select parts.
?
Kamal Patel
Morgan,
?
I have made wooden blocks similar to what John showed, milling a long piece to have spare parts as required, as Jonathan mentioned.
?
The width of the top of the groove on the Hammer is 11 mm, so the block is slightly narrower than what John shows. Threaded inserts work, but you need to be accurate otherwise parts of the thread will punch through the sidewalls. Should that happen, get rid of the problem using a file.
?
J.
|
I made a t-nut with maple and a threaded insert, and then a friend made me a few more with aluminum. They each worked well.
?
You can easily make wood or aluminum versions with your saw and a router.   --
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
|
I may get flack for this, but I wouldn't use a custom cabinet shop that can't make or even order dovetail drawer boxes.
On Fri, Feb 7, 2025, 1:35 PM Michael Marsico via <michael.marsico1= [email protected]> wrote: I looked into ordering a bunch of drawers and trays for a good sized kitchen about two years ago.? I priced them with a coupe of places (cant remember who that was at the time). ??
I ended up getting an Omega 650 manual dovetailer and doing them myself. ? I had calculated with that one kitchen i more than paid for the tool - not always the smartest way but i did not mind spending the time on making them - also not sure i had the best pricing that can be had either.
In any event that makes the process of cutting dovetails really fast and repeatable - even for someone of my skills!
Yeah. Why not make it by yourself?
Buy a PantoRouter or Leigh D4R Pro, I am sure you can make all the drawer boxes for your cabinet in a few days.
James On Fri, Feb 7, 2025 at 1:18?PM jontathan samways via <jonathansamways= [email protected]> wrote: Dovetailed?drawer boxes are very easy to make, don't us woodworkers do that type of thing?
?they are local for me, but they ship as well. I have used them a lot and never have had any issues... well actually one. They drill and notch (and supply at a good price) for the blum undermount drawer slide and one batch of boxes I got from them the 1/4" drill that the "hook" goes into wasn't drilled deep enough. Fortunately an easy fix, but it had me scratching my head for a few minutes when the drawers wouldn't engage in the slides.
I've always done the baltic birch sides, but they will do solid wood as well and whatever thickness bottom you want.
On Friday, February 7, 2025 at 09:09:27 AM MST, Kerryj_smith < kerry@...> wrote:
I use Portadoor in Connecticut. They ship.
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
--
Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
--
Michael Marsico
|
I looked into ordering a bunch of drawers and trays for a good sized kitchen about two years ago.? I priced them with a coupe of places (cant remember who that was at the time). ??
I ended up getting an Omega 650 manual dovetailer and doing them myself. ? I had calculated with that one kitchen i more than paid for the tool - not always the smartest way but i did not mind spending the time on making them - also not sure i had the best pricing that can be had either.
In any event that makes the process of cutting dovetails really fast and repeatable - even for someone of my skills!
Yeah. Why not make it by yourself?
Buy a PantoRouter or Leigh D4R Pro, I am sure you can make all the drawer boxes for your cabinet in a few days.
James On Fri, Feb 7, 2025 at 1:18?PM jontathan samways via <jonathansamways= [email protected]> wrote: Dovetailed?drawer boxes are very easy to make, don't us woodworkers do that type of thing?
?they are local for me, but they ship as well. I have used them a lot and never have had any issues... well actually one. They drill and notch (and supply at a good price) for the blum undermount drawer slide and one batch of boxes I got from them the 1/4" drill that the "hook" goes into wasn't drilled deep enough. Fortunately an easy fix, but it had me scratching my head for a few minutes when the drawers wouldn't engage in the slides.
I've always done the baltic birch sides, but they will do solid wood as well and whatever thickness bottom you want.
On Friday, February 7, 2025 at 09:09:27 AM MST, Kerryj_smith < kerry@...> wrote:
I use Portadoor in Connecticut. They ship.
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
--
Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
--
Michael Marsico
|
I have a Mitsubishi VFD for the spindle on my CNC router. ?It's only a 2HP spindle, but the Mitsubishi is pretty darn quiet. ?The spindle itself is one of the ceramic bearing Italian ones and it's pretty quiet, but even that is louder than the VFD fan.
And then I turn on DC and can't hear myself think. :D
Not sure how the sound scales, but Mitsubishi does offer larger HP units. ?Let me know if you'd like me to go see what model it is.
?
What methods you use to buff out the rust on the tables?
From a couple of dumb/lazy mistakes I have some unsightly rust spots on a couple of my machines.
I've tried just hand applied products like some all in one metal cleaner/polish but those are not effective.
?
Thanks and I hope you get to enjoy your new machine soon!
|
Morgan, I've made T-nuts out of beach, some with a slot for the small festool clamps , some for threaded inserts, not having one fail yet. I made up a couple of meters and chop off the length needed, also very handy if you need to skew?something to the slider.
You can order the T-nuts from Felder.? They aren't cheap, though.? I think they are $30ish a piece.
I used a couple of the Felder T-Nuts with the Kreg clamps that are pictured earlier in this thread.? Worked well, just fiddly when doing big sheets because you'd have to walk around the sheet to clamp/unclamp the front.
Those Kreg clamps do come with a base as well - might be an extra/optional piece, but I have those for mine.
?
Not sure if this will work for you on squaring the outrigger, but I use a big TSO square and align it with the right side of the slider.
The edge of the sled is parallel to the blade on my saw.? Makes it super quick and easy to set or check square.
Especially if you are like me and take the outrigger off from time to time for more space in the shop.? Even if you don't, the outrigger is long enough that it's easy to bump at the end and get it out of square.
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Yeah. Why not make it by yourself?
Buy a PantoRouter or Leigh D4R Pro, I am sure you can make all the drawer boxes for your cabinet in a few days.
James On Fri, Feb 7, 2025 at 1:18?PM jontathan samways via <jonathansamways= [email protected]> wrote:
Dovetailed?drawer boxes are very easy to make, don't us woodworkers do that type of thing?
?they are local for me, but they ship as well. I have used them a lot and never have had any issues... well actually one. They drill and notch (and supply at a good price) for the blum undermount drawer slide and one batch of boxes I got from them the 1/4" drill that the "hook" goes into wasn't drilled deep enough. Fortunately an easy fix, but it had me scratching my head for a few minutes when the drawers wouldn't engage in the slides.
I've always done the baltic birch sides, but they will do solid wood as well and whatever thickness bottom you want.
On Friday, February 7, 2025 at 09:09:27 AM MST, Kerryj_smith < kerry@...> wrote:
I use Portadoor in Connecticut. They ship.
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
--
Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Re: Hammer a3-31 adjustments
Hey Bram-
?
Thanks for the response. Im getting snipe.on both the jointer and planer. The planer went out of adjustment last year. I made some adjustments to it last year but never really got it right. They told me having the feed roller too tight or too loose could cause the problem. I was playing cat and mouse with the machine for a bit and then kind of gave up and said it was good enough.?
?
A couple months ago i started having problems with the Jointer and was developing snipe aboit 1/3 way down the board and at tail end. My outfeed is sitting slightly higher than cutter block. I made some adjustments to both tables and still have an issue. And no i am not tightening the lock on the planer.. maybe thats the issue
|
Dovetailed?drawer boxes are very easy to make, don't us woodworkers do that type of thing?
?they are local for me, but they ship as well. I have used them a lot and never have had any issues... well actually one. They drill and notch (and supply at a good price) for the blum undermount drawer slide and one batch of boxes I got from them the 1/4" drill that the "hook" goes into wasn't drilled deep enough. Fortunately an easy fix, but it had me scratching my head for a few minutes when the drawers wouldn't engage in the slides.
I've always done the baltic birch sides, but they will do solid wood as well and whatever thickness bottom you want.
On Friday, February 7, 2025 at 09:09:27 AM MST, Kerryj_smith < kerry@...> wrote:
I use Portadoor in Connecticut. They ship.
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
|
Re: Hammer a3-31 adjustments
Hi Brian?
1. Is it the jointer that is still giving you issues or the planer or both 2. For the planer snipe I firts want to verify that you are tightening the handle to lock the heigth adjustment shaft. No matter how wel tuned your machine is, if it isn't tightened you will hezt snipe
Regards?
Hello-
?
Machine is about 3 years old. Bought new from Felder. Was ? dialed in when i received it. Last year planer started getting snipe which i attempted to fix without great results. Spoke to Felder and my sales guy who sent me pretty vague adjustment instructions. Said it was a feed roller issue. I have snipe at both side of the board now. Recently jointer went out of adjustment. Watched 2 videos i found on YouTube, Felder sent me instructions for the Jointer which the Tech self proclaimed were prettty useless. I have a 50 inch straight edge and Oneway multi gauge. Made some adjustments but still not there. For those that have been there looking for any advice. I have experience with dovetail way and parallelogram jointers. Ive watched the woodwhisperers steps but because this machine has hinges for the locking handles, etc, maybe something im doing wrong.
|
Hello-
?
Machine is about 3 years old. Bought new from Felder. Was ? dialed in when i received it. Last year planer started getting snipe which i attempted to fix without great results. Spoke to Felder and my sales guy who sent me pretty vague adjustment instructions. Said it was a feed roller issue. I have snipe at both side of the board now. Recently jointer went out of adjustment. Watched 2 videos i found on YouTube, Felder sent me instructions for the Jointer which the Tech self proclaimed were prettty useless. I have a 50 inch straight edge and Oneway multi gauge. Made some adjustments but still not there. For those that have been there looking for any advice. I have experience with dovetail way and parallelogram jointers. Ive watched the woodwhisperers steps but because this machine has hinges for the locking handles, etc, maybe something im doing wrong.
|
You can order the T-nuts from Felder. ?They aren't cheap, though. ?I think they are $30ish a piece.
I used a couple of the Felder T-Nuts with the Kreg clamps that are pictured earlier in this thread. ?Worked well, just fiddly when doing big sheets because you'd have to walk around the sheet to clamp/unclamp the front.
Those Kreg clamps do come with a base as well - might be an extra/optional piece, but I have those for mine.
?
Not sure if this will work for you on squaring the outrigger, but I use a big TSO square and align it with the right side of the slider.
The edge of the sled is parallel to the blade on my saw. ?Makes it super quick and easy to set or check square.
Especially if you are like me and take the outrigger off from time to time for more space in the shop. ?Even if you don't, the outrigger is long enough that it's easy to bump at the end and get it out of square.
|
?they are local for me, but they ship as well. I have used them a lot and never have had any issues... well actually one. They drill and notch (and supply at a good price) for the blum undermount drawer slide and one batch of boxes I got from them the 1/4" drill that the "hook" goes into wasn't drilled deep enough. Fortunately an easy fix, but it had me scratching my head for a few minutes when the drawers wouldn't engage in the slides.
I've always done the baltic birch sides, but they will do solid wood as well and whatever thickness bottom you want.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Friday, February 7, 2025 at 09:09:27 AM MST, Kerryj_smith <kerry@...> wrote:
I use Portadoor in Connecticut. They ship.
www.portadoor.com
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
www.gothamwoodworks.com
|
I use Portadoor in Connecticut. They ship.
www.portadoor.com
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
www.gothamwoodworks.com
|
Years ago used Barker Cabinets ().? They typically provide full cabs but recall them also offering select parts.
?
Kamal Patel
|
Dave,
?
IMHO Western Dovetail makes great quality Drawer Boxes.? I met them at AWFS and tried them a few times.? Now I have a dovetailer, so I am going to try to match their quality...? We will see.
?
?
No Affiliation other than having a bunch of them.
?
PK?
|
Unless I want butt jointed and nailed drawers for my house that's under construction, which is all that the local custom cabinet guys offer, I need to go with someone like Legacy or Merrilat to make the cabinets.? The boxes are pretty standard but I'm wondering if I can bet the local cabinet guys to outsource drawers.? If so what is the go-to drawer supplier you use?
Thanks
Dave Davies
|
Jeff
Kerryj_smith
PK