Re: Cheap Reset Stop for Rip Fence DRO
Thanks for the reply Imran.
However, with a pin turned to the hundredth to the size of the hole (if this is concentric it enters precisely) and with a shoulder (like a cap) of larger diameter on the head, so that it acts as a stop and does not fall into the hole, it is not necessary to mark the stop point with the guide, just insert it and reset the DRO. I would also turn a recess on the head of the cap to fix a neodymium magnet inside, so that when it is not in use you attach it to the frame of the sliding table saw and always keep it handy.
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Hey Imran,
?
Thank you for your reply and DM. i assumed as much. So i've now set it up as and end stop so the tables (on both sides) can't hit the cutters.?
Cheers,
?
Jordi
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
David,
Thanks for the video. For some of us, interacting with a website is not intuitive. In past attempts to query older posts, it did not occur to me to click on ¡°Messages¡±. Now I know, and it seems so obvious.
Steve,
Nashville, TN
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Re: Cheap Reset Stop for Rip Fence DRO
Hi Andrea,
Short answer is that I do not have the ability to turn metal let alone with any precision.
As I see it, what¡¯s needed is a pin that fits the existing hole precisely such that there is no movement during the calibration process. Keep in mind, at least for me, it is not possible to bring the fence in contact with the pin gently every time other than right after freshly cleaning and lubricating the fence rod. I did not think I could make a measurement precise enough to ask someone to make me pin with such precision. I figured the process would be iterative which I did not want to deal with but is not an issue if you have?in-house milling capability.
A highly precise turned head is not required. However adding a mark on the top, so that the fence can be registered to nearly the same spot should negate the effect of any anomaly in the hole?that might affect repeatability.
For the most part, I am after repeatability rather than being able to cut exactly 4.000¡± wide board.
I totally understand that we are working with wood and generations worked w/o this precision but it is very satisfying to have this capability. There are indeed projects that benefit from this precision but I haven¡¯t yet embarked on any.
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On Jan 12, 2025, at 10:06?AM, Andrea Cerroni via groups.io <andreacerroni75@...> wrote: ? Hi Imran, I wanted to ask you, why did you thread the hole and screw in a bolt, couldn't you have simply inserted a pin turned to size into the smooth hole?
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Re: Cheap Reset Stop for Rip Fence DRO
Hi Imran, I wanted to ask you, why did you thread the hole and screw in a bolt, couldn't you have simply inserted a pin turned to size into the smooth hole?
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Aaron, I made a video for you. ?Check it out:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jan 11, 2025, at 3:42?PM, aaron.gatzke via groups.io <aaron.gatzke@...> wrote:
Thank you Dave!
Believe me, I have tried searching but I guess I do not yet know the nuances of FOG.
i went into the files archive and tried searching older posts but without success.
i tired to use appropriate search terms but without any luck.
?
Thnks again¡
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Aaron,
I wouldn¡¯t sweat it being out of calibration. I¡¯m guessing most machines will need some adjustment after traveling halfway around the world. My used machine came from Long Island and it was out way more than 15 thous. It was an exhausting 4+ hours to adjust it to perfection. You should have a much easier time.?
Patrick?
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 6:51?PM aaron.gatzke via <aaron.gatzke= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you Patrick.
Unfortunately, my new A3 31 came to me out of adjustment.
Considering all the hype about the machine, i didn¡¯t bother to check it out.
And it was stuck in a corner of my garage for a few years with very little use.
For example, the front of the infeed table dropped by 15 thou away from the cutter head.
i adjusted that but realize there is still more to do¡
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Thank you Patrick.
Unfortunately, my new A3 31 came to me out of adjustment.
Considering all the hype about the machine, i didn¡¯t bother to check it out.
And it was stuck in a corner of my garage for a few years with very little use.
For example, the front of the infeed table dropped by 15 thou away from the cutter head.
i adjusted that but realize there is still more to do¡
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Thank you Dave!
Believe me, I have tried searching but I guess I do not yet know the nuances of FOG.
i went into the files archive and tried searching older posts but without success.
i tired to use appropriate search terms but without any luck.
?
Thnks again¡
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Model 60 ?? Dave
I've seen a 24", though the 16" are a lot more common.?
Newman made a great jointer.? I think 16" was the largest though.? Dave
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Yes, Same profile as wartime/prewar 12/16" machines with the curved base but almost comically wide.? ? I'll see if I can dig up a picture?
Model 60 ?? Dave
I've seen a 24", though the 16" are a lot more common.?
Newman made a great jointer.? I think 16" was the largest though.? Dave
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
The Tersa knives can vary between HSS, coated and carbide. And also between the different brands. Not much and Jarred is right they might need resetting after some use. Very slight though. I don¡¯t see it as an issue, especially on insert head machines that are easy to make the adjustment. Conventional knives are a different story.
My four side planer moulder is Tersa knife and has a magnetic setting gauge for this. Also works on the jointer but still find the stick method just as accurate.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
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I've seen a 24", though the 16" are a lot more common.?
Newman made a great jointer.? I think 16" was the largest though.? Dave
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I've seen a 24", though the 16" are a lot more common.?
Newman made a great jointer.? I think 16" was the largest though.? Dave
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via
<joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Newman made a great jointer.? I think 16" was the largest though.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via
<joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
FWIW, Here is a table showing the variation between outfeed and Tersa cutterhead and the knives on Dual 51. ? This was after I cleaned the slot and knives which improved the results. ? 
? Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations ? ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Patrick Kane via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2025 3:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31? Thats interesting. My no name?500mm jointer is also a tersa head, and i never stopped to consider not all tersa knives are the exact same spec. Are the carbide knives taller than the M or HSS knives? Kinda silly of tersa?if they are not consistent across the different steel types. That is somewhat of the selling point of the system. I havent?taken an indicator to my machine in years, but maybe i should.? To the OP, on a 12" machine, you should be able to hit .001" projection across the width of the bed. I found that to be fairly difficult on my machine. For example, the fence side is maybe .001" lower on the outfeed table. It is a delicate dance making the cutterhead body parallel?to the outfeed table and then the infeed table parallel?and coplaner?to the outfeed table. It is so easy for one adjustment to move a previous adjustment by .001-.002". You really can chase your tail for hours. I wouldnt?sweat it too much. Get it as close as you can and then just start working. If you have bad snipe or your workpiece is snagging on the outfeed table lip after the initial 1" of cut, then go back to adjusting. Im all for calibrating your given machine to the absolute best of tolerances, but you can drive yourself crazy for zero appreciable difference. For me, a .002-.003" variation across 12" is the "good enough" point for most machine setups.? ? On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 3:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote: I used to set my straight knife SCM with an indicator but don¡¯t find it necessary with the Martin jointer. I¡¯m back and forth quite a bit with tersa carbide and coated HSS on this machine depending on material and find the stick method as accurate as a dial and a lot quicker.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I never liked .001" above the outfeed. Its great for a minute until the edge dulls slightly, and then you are suddenly cutting tapers and not the trailing edge.?
.003-.004" above or usually 1/8" movement with a straight edge.? Like David I'm running a old large diameter head straight knife dmd machine (newman), except at 70hz to get the speed up to something closer to a belted head.?
I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
Thats interesting. My no name?500mm jointer is also a tersa head, and i never stopped to consider not all tersa knives are the exact same spec. Are the carbide knives taller than the M or HSS knives? Kinda silly of tersa?if they are not consistent across the different steel types. That is somewhat of the selling point of the system. I havent?taken an indicator to my machine in years, but maybe i should.?
To the OP, on a 12" machine, you should be able to hit .001" projection across the width of the bed. I found that to be fairly difficult on my machine. For example, the fence side is maybe .001" lower on the outfeed table. It is a delicate dance making the cutterhead body parallel?to the outfeed table and then the infeed table parallel?and coplaner?to the outfeed table. It is so easy for one adjustment to move a previous adjustment by .001-.002". You really can chase your tail for hours. I wouldnt?sweat it too much. Get it as close as you can and then just start working. If you have bad snipe or your workpiece is snagging on the outfeed table lip after the initial 1" of cut, then go back to adjusting. Im all for calibrating your given machine to the absolute best of tolerances, but you can drive yourself crazy for zero appreciable difference. For me, a .002-.003" variation across 12" is the "good enough" point for most machine setups.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 3:02?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: I used to set my straight knife SCM with an indicator but don¡¯t find it necessary with the Martin jointer. I¡¯m back and forth quite a bit with tersa carbide and coated HSS on this machine depending on material and find the stick method as accurate as a dial and a lot quicker.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I used to set my straight knife SCM with an indicator but don¡¯t find it necessary with the Martin jointer. I¡¯m back and forth quite a bit with tersa carbide and coated HSS on this machine depending on material and find the stick method as accurate as a dial and a lot quicker.
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Re: Cutter head to outfeed table specification on A3 31
I use a dial too but my old jointer runs a large diameter head at 3600 rpm so I like all three knives to cut as the head turns more slowly than a belt driven machine.? Reduces the scallop marks.? Dave
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I tried the hardwood/ruler method initially a decade or more ago. I didn¡¯t find it to
Be as accurate/consistent as I could be. I switched to an indicator with a base. My knives are .002¡± above the outfeed table. If the cutting circle is below the outfeed table, then the jointer can¡¯t really function. I think .001¡±+ is a good
target to shoot for. Too much and you will have snipe on the trailing edge of your board.?
Patrick
On Sat, Jan 11, 2025 at 1:02?PM Joe Calhoon via
<joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote:
Same here, I just use a well milled piece of hardwood to move 3mm or so as the head is turned. Simple and fast. As mentioned tables must be coplaner.
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imran
David P. Best
