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Re: sliding table saw: parallel fence vs 2nd crosscut fence?
#k700s
Hi David Best,
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I have gone over your amazingly detailed and informative videos relating to the short crosscut fence's repeatability several times (ever since I got my own temperamental crosscut fence a year ago). Here is a quick question - please excuse if it is naive thinking.
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In the very first video of the series you state that the registration of the part that is mounted to the p-channel is actually pretty good and you don't seem to have a problem with the kipp lever on that side. However, I noticed that this kipp lever also doesn't have a tight tolerance bushing. If the adjustable 90 degree stop lever ensures a repeatable position of the fence on that end, could we not simply add a similar stop to the other side (the t-nut side)? A stop that we push up against when we tighten the kipp lever. Wouldn't that allow for a repeatable operation (with two positive stops)? Or is the short distance between the two kipp levers the real culprit, requiring tight tolerances of less than 0.001 mm?
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Many thanks,
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Cornelius
Cyprus?
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Thanks Aaron, I had already seen the proscale kit. I am looking for a solution to adapt the Dro M503 that I bought, and I will certainly take inspiration from this kit to create a functional support with a nice look like Malik's
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Yours looks nice, and that would be a great price point! ? --Tim
On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 7:40?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I expect to offer my version for less than 1/3 of that. On Dec 15, 2024, at 8:27?PM, Tim Prinzing via <tim.prinzing= [email protected]> wrote: ? I just went to the Proscale website and noticed this for Felder K700 with 1800mm crosscut fence:
? --Tim On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 5:36?PM Wade Dees via <wjdsignature= [email protected]> wrote: Accurate technology Inc. makes great DRO¡¯s!
I¡¯m hoping one day they will develope a kit for the K700S. ?
Wade
On Dec 15, 2024, at 2:30?PM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
? Andrea,
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By the way, Proscale does already have a kit for the Minimax SC4:
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-Aaron
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I expect to offer my version for less than 1/3 of that.
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On Dec 15, 2024, at 8:27?PM, Tim Prinzing via groups.io <tim.prinzing@...> wrote: ? I just went to the Proscale website and noticed this for Felder K700 with 1800mm crosscut fence:
? --Tim On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 5:36?PM Wade Dees via <wjdsignature= [email protected]> wrote: Accurate technology Inc. makes great DRO¡¯s!
I¡¯m hoping one day they will develope a kit for the K700S. ?
Wade
On Dec 15, 2024, at 2:30?PM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
? Andrea,
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By the way, Proscale does already have a kit for the Minimax SC4:
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-Aaron
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I just went to the Proscale website and noticed this for Felder K700 with 1800mm crosscut fence:
? --Tim
On Sun, Dec 15, 2024 at 5:36?PM Wade Dees via <wjdsignature= [email protected]> wrote: Accurate technology Inc. makes great DRO¡¯s!
I¡¯m hoping one day they will develope a kit for the K700S. ?
Wade
On Dec 15, 2024, at 2:30?PM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
? Andrea,
?
By the way, Proscale does already have a kit for the Minimax SC4:
?
-Aaron
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Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
Thank you. ?The machine is new, so the bed belt is good. ?Looks like some more minor infeed pressure roller adjustments should get me there. I will work to get an accurate measurement to adjust from here?
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Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
To adjust the pressure rollers, lay down a piece of ? Baltic birch plywood (or similar that you know is dead flat) to cover the entire rubber feed mat. ?That provides a reference surface from which you can measure the feed rollers and how their position relates to the main rubber-coated drive drum position. ?Then use a dial indicator or step blocks with feeler gauges to make sure both ends of both pressure rollers are the same distance from the plywood reference surface. ?You want the feed rollers to be about 2mm lower than the surface of the main drive drum if I recall correctly. ?It definitely takes some trial and error passes to get the pressure rollers adjusted. ?Too much pressure roller action and you will experience trailing-edge snipe / too little and the material will not feed consistently and you get leading-edge snipe. ?A Oneway Multigauge turned upside down is the best tool for to check the relative roller positions. ? | |
Or make your own:
David Best - via mobile phone?
On Dec 15, 2024, at 4:05?PM, John Deming via groups.io <jldjr26@...> wrote:
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Thank you Tom and David. ?Adjusting the pressure bar has helped which appears to be off from the factory. ? I was able to make an adjustment but need to find a way to accurately measure the bar relative to infeed roller. Part of the learning curve with a new machine. ?One thing i do not understand is it seems like a challenge to get the heavy piece of white oak to feed without push / pull lightly.,..12/4 material?
Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
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Are you using the platen at 80 grit? I am having to almost push / pull the piece lightly on some passes as it not easily passing through. The feed rate / gears is at the lowest setting.
This is another indication that your infeed and/or outfeed pressure rollers are not properly adjusted or that your feed belt is worn or glazed over. The best indicator on depth of cut limitations is the AMP meter on the control panel. Indications much above 10 amps and you risk a stall / shutdown. David Best - via mobile phone
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Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
Thank you Tom and David. ?Adjusting the pressure bar has helped which appears to be off from the factory. ? I was able to make an adjustment but need to find a way to accurately measure the bar relative to infeed roller. Part of the learning curve with a new machine. ?One thing i do not understand is it seems like a challenge to get the heavy piece of white oak to feed without push / pull lightly.,..12/4 material?
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Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
John, ?I have owned the Northstate branded 1632 Widebelt sander you have for over 20 years now and gotten great service out of it. ?I even posted some videos a long time back on how to adjust the belt tracking, and you¡¯ll find some posts in the archive about the platen and how to replace the graphite cloth. ?Videos??- not the last video on platen adjustment.
The leading edge snipe you are experiencing is due to a misadjusted ?infeed pressure roller. ?You want to bring the feed roller (which is spring loaded). downward. ?I¡¯m attaching the manual for the WB you have, and call your attention to page 15. ?The feed rollers that keep the material pushed down and against the feed belt are shown in this parts diagram. ?Elements marked #15 can be adjusted to increase or decrease snipe. ?I¡¯ve done it a few times and it is somewhat of a chore to get at the adjustment points. ?
As for typical depth of cut limits, that all depends on what grit paper you¡¯re using and the type of material you are sanding. ?On a finish pass with 120 grit on oak, I will typically set the machine to remove about 0.2mm. ?You can fine tune the depth of cut by raising or lowering the platen. ?Hope this helps.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Dec 15, 2024, at 2:12?PM, John Deming via groups.io <jldjr26@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
Just started getting familiar with my new Powermatic 1632 open end wide belt similar to Northstate machine. ?I am getting snipe on the leading end of a 22¡± piece of 12/4 white oak. ?I adjusted the pressure bar with no impact. ?It seems a like the indeed rollers are sitting too high but do appear to be adjustable down. ?Is this just a symptom of a short piece and have to live with it or are the infeed rollers adjustable? Or is there something else i may be doing wrong? ?Have been takingvery light passes with 80 grit. I am using the platen. Piece gets hung up after dropping off the first roller.?
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<inline.0.part>
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Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
Are you using the platen at 80 grit? ?I am having to almost push / pull the piece lightly on some passes as it not easily passing through. ?The feed rate / gears ?is at the lowest setting.?
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Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
Hi John,?
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I have sanded parts as thin as 1mm, so you can definitely process thin material.?
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I generally raise the feed bed two full rotations of the hand wheel when using 80 grit, which I think corresponds to something like 0.2mm per rotation, so 0.4mm passes. I wouldn't want to be much more aggressive than that. I usually use 80 grit to get to my final thickness, then I'll swap belts to go up through the grits (if necessary), leaving the feed bed fixed.?
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--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
I think the infeed pressure bar was not set correctly. ?I made an adjustment based upon your comment and it seems to have improved. The piece still gets hung up / slips but the snipe has diminished. I am not getting any snipe on the trailing end. ?I mostly process short pieces so i do not really want to deal with snipe. ? I am hoping to be able to sand down to 1/8-1/4 material as well. ??
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How heavy of pass is realistic with this type of sander?
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Accurate technology Inc. makes great DRO¡¯s!
I¡¯m hoping one day they will develope a kit for the K700S. ?
Wade
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On Dec 15, 2024, at 2:30?PM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
? Andrea,
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By the way, Proscale does already have a kit for the Minimax SC4:
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-Aaron
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Re: Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
Hi John,?
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Yes, snipe on the leading end of the piece would indicate you need more pressure on the in-feed pressure roller. I have the Northstate sander as well, and do not experience this snipe.?
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I have a memory that there is some mention of the relationship between the in-feed roller and the primary drum, but I can't put my hands on it at the moment. I'd have t check my machine but I have a vague sense that I have my pressure roller set ~1mm or 2mm below the primary drum. My memory is that you want the in-feed roller to firmly engage with the work, but not so much that you feel a "ka-chunk" as the wood engages with the roller, and not so much that you're deflecting the feed bed.?
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Do you have measurements of the relationship between your pressure roller and primary drum? Probably best to record the Factory settings prior to changing things...?
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Andrea,
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By the way, Proscale does already have a kit for the Minimax SC4:
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-Aaron
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
Netanel,
If your cutter speed is too slow you get kickback and if your cutter speed is too fast the cutter could come apart.
When feeding if you feed too slowly then you create heat and burnish the wood which makes finishing and sanding more difficult and causes early wear on your knives. ?If you feed too fast then you get a rough surface.
I want to say that 24 cut per inch leaves a nice finish. ?So you can shoot for the proper amount of cuts per inch by adjusting your feed speed and cutter speed. ?I was able to proceed off the shaper with no sanding of profiles in my door and window shop saving a lot of time and mess sanding after milling. ?
I had a Garniga catalog that had the equations printed in it for the proper feed/cutter speeds but once I got a feel for the feed vs cutter speed I did not need the equations anymore.
Getting the best feed and cutter speed become more important the more material you are running to prolong the lives of the knives. Think of a Moulder running at 6000 rpm and 5 heads with four knives in each head running thousands of lineal feet per shift, bad speeds will cost a lot of money. This does not generally matter when doing small runs with carbide knives as it is unlikely a hobbiest will wear down good knives. ?
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On Dec 15, 2024, at 9:33?AM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I designed and printed a 80mm hose union to join 2 piece of 80mm hose I had until Felder will send me the 3m hose. My machine is finally hocked to the DC. I also made an adapter to the Aigner Bowmolder. If someone wants the stl files I can upload them to the site.
I should get a package from S&S tomorrow with some safety accessories from Aigner and can start running the machine. It will be a bit tricky since I recently sold my A3-31 (in less than 24H) and I can¡¯t dimension hardwood until I'll get the new J/P.
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I would also like to ask how do you determine the power feeder speed to the shaper cutter/spindle speed?
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Northstate / PM 1632 Snipe On leading end
Just started getting familiar with my new Powermatic 1632 open end wide belt similar to Northstate machine. ?I am getting snipe on the leading end of a 22¡± piece of 12/4 white oak. ?I adjusted the pressure bar with no impact. ?It seems a like the indeed rollers are sitting too high but do appear to be adjustable down. ?Is this just a symptom of a short piece and have to live with it or are the infeed rollers adjustable? Or is there something else i may be doing wrong? ?Have been takingvery light passes with 80 grit. I am using the platen. Piece gets hung up after dropping off the first roller.?
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On Dec 15, 2024, at 2:26?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote: ? That's awesome Imran,
I have been looking at the DRO on my flipstop myself lately thinking of ways i can make it better. Not sure i would ever get it looking that professional though!
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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How to connect a 400-800 Morticing unit to a Felder BF5-31
Hello,
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I have an elderly but much loved Felder BF5-31 and I have managed to purchase what I think is a 400-800 morticing unit to go with it, but I am struggling to understand whether I have the right parts to connect it to my machine. I was told by Felder that the two should fit together without the need of adapters. The machine itself has two approx. 10mm unthreaded holes which match the position of two approx. 16mm unthreaded holes on the morticing unit. There are some strangely shaped custom bolts in these holes now which I presume were needed to attach it to the series 500 machine it was previously fitted to, and which I presume will need to be removed as the threads do not fit through the 10mm holes. There are also some spacers (?) on the side of the morticer, which I presume will need to be used to offset it enough so that the mobile base can fit in between. Does anyone have a similar set-up and if so could I please ask you to take a photo or two to show me how one connects to the other? I am also baffled as to how to access the rear of the holes on the machine itself if bolts need to pass through as I have not opened it on this side before, and it is not clear which panel needs to come off in order to do so. I hope a fellow Felder owner is able to help. Thank you in advance!
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Davide
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P.S. I am waiting for the chuck to arrive in the post...
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Top view - which bolts to undo to get inside?
View of strange bolt probably for series 500 connection
Side view showing serial number of morticing unit
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imran
David P. Best
Tom Gensmer