I did something rash, and ordered a new Format-4 Kappa 450X. It is currently on a ship near Guatemala, headed for Oakland, CA. It should be in Boise by the end of November.
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Now I need to sell my K700S to make room for the new saw. Please reach out if you are thinking of purchasing one - this one is in excellent shape. I am a hobby woodworker, and this saw has seen little use since it was commissioned three years ago.
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* 10-ft sliding table
* 49” wide rip capacity
* 4 HP, 220V motor
* Separate motor for scoring blade – adjustable scoring blade included
* Overhead guard and dust collector
* Dado capable
* 1500 mm outrigger with crosscut fence. Crosscut fence telescopes to 2600 mm
* Separate short crosscut fence included
* Lamb Tool Works Digital Readout stop on the outrigger fence
* Micro adjuster and Digital Readout on rip fence
$11,500
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John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Advice about spraying unit for light metals on slider
I don't think I have ever heard mention of someone getting that option on a Felder, so finding out how it works is going to be up to direct questions from Felder, and that's if they know....
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Tuesday, October 29, 2024 at 03:19:44 PM MST, Michael Wolf <missingeggacct@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian, I'll take a look.? One of my questions was whether or not the spray attachment is designed for MQL, or whether it makes a real mess.? I see that SCM's equivalent option is described as "Device for the blade micro-lubrication", which sounds a lot more like MQL coolant than some kind of flood system.? In the Felder catalog, I don't see any description for the K900/700 series machines.? In the Format section of the catalog, I see a picture of a very small spray head with a description of "High performance lubricating oil can be sprayed directly onto the saw blade", which indicates lubrication is the goal, not cooling, and thus implies the volume of oil (and thus mess) is small.
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Re: Advice about spraying unit for light metals on slider
Thanks Brian, I'll take a look.? One of my questions was whether or not the spray attachment is designed for MQL, or whether it makes a real mess.? I see that SCM's equivalent option is described as "Device for the blade micro-lubrication", which sounds a lot more like MQL coolant than some kind of flood system.? In the Felder catalog, I don't see any description for the K900/700 series machines.? In the Format section of the catalog, I see a picture of a very small spray head with a description of "High performance lubricating oil can be sprayed directly onto the saw blade", which indicates lubrication is the goal, not cooling, and thus implies the volume of oil (and thus mess) is small.
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Can you confirm that it increases in speed or just does not continue to slow down. Thought being, that the brake is kicking out after a short time. ?If it is indeed increasing in speed then I need to look at the schematic.? If you have one you can share high resolution pics. Make sure you are able to read lettering etc when you zoom in.
One thing you can try is to keep the red button pressed continuously to see if it makes any difference.
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On Oct 29, 2024, at 5:22?PM, Laurie Lewis via groups.io <laurielewisofcalgary@...> wrote: ? Recently my CF531 has exhibited a delay in stopping.? When I press the stop button, the machine begins to slow down but then increases in speed and I have to wait 5 to 10 seconds before the machine stops completely.? This is the case for all of the combination machine functions.? Does anyone know why this is happening and how I might correct the problem.??
Thanks, Laurie Lewis
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Re: How do I make this molding
Realizing that I could build up complex profiles from multiple pieces was the key thought that really opened up possibilities for me.? Depending on the complexity, I've sometimes build fixtures to enable consistent glue-ups of the component parts.? I've also built fixtures to enable me to run sub components through routing/shaping.? I'm largely a self taught woodworker, but I have a background as a machinist, where creating fixtures is a very common technique for solving difficult work-holding problems.
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Re: Advice about spraying unit for light metals on slider
I have cut a lot of aluminum on the slider. Unless you want to do it a lot, I wouldn't bother with the lubrication option. I use a Castrol Stick Lube I think they call it, use it on the chop saw, table saw and band saw if I'm cutting aluminum.
If you really have a lot, I designed an MQL lubrication system and you could run alcohol through it. That? is done on quite a few metal working machines where they don't want any oil on the finished product. I have a pdf instruction file on how to build the system if anybody wants it. File is too big to email, see the link below:
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Tuesday, October 29, 2024 at 01:46:34 PM MST, Michael Wolf <missingeggacct@...> wrote:
Does anyone have experience with a slider that has the optional spraying unit for cutting light metals?? I'm planning to buy a slider at the end of this year, and am trying to decide if I should get a K700S with that option, as I do an odd array of one-off fabrication, and the ability to cut aluminum sheet could be helpful.? My main hesitation is whether the sprayer is really only useful to enable a saw for consistent cutting of aluminum, but not so helpful if one is regularly wanting to switch between wood and aluminum.? If it takes me hours to switch materials due to the need for cleaning things up, I won't bother with the sprayer.
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Recently my CF531 has exhibited a delay in stopping.? When I press the stop button, the machine begins to slow down but then increases in speed and I have to wait 5 to 10 seconds before the machine stops completely.? This is the case for all of the combination machine functions.? Does anyone know why this is happening and how I might correct the problem.??
Thanks, Laurie Lewis
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Re: How do I make this molding
Thanks Jonathan, Bryce and Patrick. Yes, the thought was to do it in 2 pieces. Dado the profiles stock and the glue it to a backer. The shadow line is the tough part. I can roll the molding on top of a spinning router V bit but need to secure the end of the molding against something for registration of each cut and also to avoid any sideways movement of the molding. Still not sure if it is safe.
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On Oct 29, 2024, at 11:45?AM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote: ? Like Patrick said, do it in two pieces, heck even if it were stained, you could still do it in two by first ripping the piece to be used in two. If the saw kerfs do indeed go full depth, or even close to it, i would simply do the dado cuts for the dentil part, then glue the pieces together before making the kerf cuts.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Advice about spraying unit for light metals on slider
Does anyone have experience with a slider that has the optional spraying unit for cutting light metals?? I'm planning to buy a slider at the end of this year, and am trying to decide if I should get a K700S with that option, as I do an odd array of one-off fabrication, and the ability to cut aluminum sheet could be helpful.? My main hesitation is whether the sprayer is really only useful to enable a saw for consistent cutting of aluminum, but not so helpful if one is regularly wanting to switch between wood and aluminum.? If it takes me hours to switch materials due to the need for cleaning things up, I won't bother with the sprayer.
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I bought a narrow one from Crown. After looking at online options, prices and shipping I found an add for Crown. A quick call to the number got me a call back from my local rep. He was able top get me a new 48" narrow Crown for 500.00 delivered to my shop. Made in the USA with a service and parts warehouse 3 hours from my house. I use it for many jobs in? the shop like moving my bench ect. It was very competitively priced the rep delivered it himself, I figure if it good enough for Costco it should do me well!
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Mark Foster
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Re: OT: What totally unexpected things you have found in the shop
Unexpected thing occurred years back designing/handcrafting a front door for a client; I was milling stock on jointer and saw what looked like a drop of blood on wood after flipping, but then realized it was a hole, then noticed a few woodchuck bees ? flying in shop. I’d stored wood outside under cover and didn’t foresee this coming but I remedied it with Dutchman’s and the door being a one off a bit eccentric it just adds to the patina, (no issues with client having one Dutchman on stile……. So a happy ending to what could have been a total redo as I had no more wine tank wood. Please see Photos attached below. Cheers
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Re: File /General Information/BGHM_Shaper Training English.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
Wow! At first glance it looks like a wealth of good information. It's always good to be reminded how to use these machines safely. I've a few "pucker" moments that I would like to avoid. This document will be helpful. Thank you for sharing.
Kerry
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Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
www.gothamwoodworks.com
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File /General Information/BGHM_Shaper Training English.pdf uploaded
#file-notice
The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...>
Description:
I added the shaper section from the BGHM training document.
Dave Davies
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I found a used one locally, paid $100 for it, but then had to rebuild the seals on the lift cyliinder, not sure it was worth the savings to go used. Mine is a BT Lift, think they are made in Europe, parts are readily available. Any reputable brand will be good, Crown, Jet and many others. You will need a narrow unit, mine is 20.5" x 48". You can pick up anything with it, but being narrow, you do need to balance the item you are trying to lift.
When I originally got my saw back in 2001, the driver used a lift gate and his pallet jack to get it off the truck and into my garage at the time. Then I rented a narrow pallet jack and got it down off the pallet and moved from the garage into the shop. I didn't buy my own pallet jack until about 15 years ago after moving several times... should have done it right at the beginning.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Tuesday, October 29, 2024 at 08:45:26 AM MST, Denno <dennis@...> wrote:
Many thanks Brian, I think I may go ahead and buy one. I know it will come in handy around the shop for other things as well.
Did you go with a specific brand and were you happy with its performance?
I have read that I will need the narrow version. Do you know if the narrow version would also move the pallet after it is unloaded by the saw delivery driver?
I have a very long driveway and am wondering if I can talk/tip the driver into 'palleting' it into my garage or if I am better off having the above pallet jack ready and waiting at the street?
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Many thanks
Dennis
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Many thanks Brian, I think I may go ahead and buy one. I know it will come in handy around the shop for other things as well.
Did you go with a specific brand and were you happy with its performance?
I have read that I will need the narrow version. Do you know if the narrow version would also move the pallet after it is unloaded by the saw delivery driver?
I have a very long driveway and am wondering if I can talk/tip the driver into 'palleting' it into my garage or if I am better off having the above pallet jack ready and waiting at the street?
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Many thanks
Dennis
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Re: How do I make this molding
Like Patrick said, do it in two pieces, heck even if it were stained, you could still do it in two by first ripping the piece to be used in two. If the saw kerfs do indeed go full depth, or even close to it, i would simply do the dado cuts for the dentil part, then glue the pieces together before making the kerf cuts.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Thanks for your insight Peter. It is working very well, & everything seems to check out, so i guess i'll enjoy the benefit of the extra warmth over the winter, then see how it goes in the summer. :)
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Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: How do I make this molding
Hey Imran,
Will the moulding be painted like the example? Also, do you have a closer photo??
If the final moulding will be painted, then i would do it in two pieces. The front dentil moulding would be one piece. This allows you to run through a dado and achieve the squared?profile in one shot. The second piece is simple flat stock that appears to be taller than the dentil moulding. Once painted they will appear as one moulding. As for the small groove separating the dentil pieces, can you see how deep it is? If it is just a simple shadow line, then you can make a nonthrough?cut at the table saw/radial arm saw. If that skinny groove goes full depth, then i suppose you are gluing a ton of separate dentil pieces with a spacer. This seems like a PITA. I just did a similar dentil moulding for an exterior door and i am interested in how the pros approach it. I did all my cuts with a dado stack at my oliver 232. I made it out of one solid piece of sapele, and this ended up requiring a decent amount of cleanup in very tight nooks n crannies. In hindsight, i would have chopped the moulding up into many different pieces in order to make sanding much much easier. I dont?appreciate the grain continuity as much as i thought i would.?
Patrick On Tue, Oct 29, 2024 at 10:19?AM jontathan samways via <jonathansamways= [email protected]> wrote:
Imran , I presume you didn’t have CNC. I don’t and this is how I would attack it …..first shape the length of moulding to required shape. I would then make a jig for the router, you would need to cut in from 2 directions to get rid of the round shape of the router cutter. Finish the inside of the cut/hole with chisel. Last job is the cut the division…….These type of moulding are fun especially if you see the internal and external miters and want all the segments the same size. Always start fitting with a full segment on the external mitres and hope the external mitre works out ok Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
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On Tue, 29 Oct 2024 at 14:34, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas?
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Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s
Ok, so if you're talking face frames, then do as Mac suggests (& i stated in my other post). Rip over size and dress. I will assume your material is 4/4? Rip first, dress second. You can also rough cut material into shorter lengths, cutting your longest lengths from the straightest pieces. This of course will be more time consuming, but may be necessary if you material is less than ideal in its straightness. The problem you may run into depending on the species, and how it has been dried, is the stresses in the board might result in very bent pieces after ripping them down in size. This can vary from one board to another, and from one batch to another. Based on how much each board moves, you might need to make a wider rip, so you can get a straight edge on the jointer. Next joint the face, then the edge of each board. They are now ready to run through the thickness planer to get them perfectly parallel in width and thickness and exactly to the required size. Being face frames, some amount of bowing might be acceptable, in which case, you might be better off dressing all the material in the longest lengths possible, and then cutting to the required lengths. Remember, always cut your longest lengths first!!!
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Hope this helps.
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Hey Dennis:
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Just a few comments/thoughts as relatively recently went through the same process:
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1.? Do invest in a narrow pallet jack as it will make life easier when just moving the main and slider arm shipping crates around the shop, and when taking the slider off the crate.? Buy or borrow one.
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2.? Keep it simple and don't overthink (like I did) getting the slider off the pallet - build a ramp and use the pallet jack to roll it down.? I did this by myself and was much easier than expected.? Moving the main body of the saw? ? ? around is easy with the pallet jack but becomes VERY tricky and will lean once the slider arm is attached so get the body in its the final location otherwise it will be a PITA to move once the arm is installed.??
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3.? I have yet to purchase the Lamb Tool and Mac's Clamps as wanted to learn the basics and get used to the saw itself before introducing other appliances and learning curves.? Am close though ;).
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4.? I will be making the FF jig on my own and feel it is a requirement for a slider.
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5.? Do think about getting the saw commissioned by Felder - I eventually did for all my equipment and it proved worthwhile to get the equipment dialed in.
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6.? You will need good clamps and finally pulled the trigger on the new Harvey clamps.? The ones by Felder IMHO are bulky and not as user friendly.
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Kamal Patel
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imran
Mark Foster
Kerryj_smith
Denno
Bryce Comer