AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
I'm curious if anyone has a newer generation AD941 and has been able to adjust the infeed table to be coplanar with the outfeed table. In particular, what seems like it should be a simple adjustment on the hinge side is not working out according to my intuition (but I'm no machinist).  
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If you have more than one outlet they are all going to fill lopsided . If you¡¯re really disturbed by it you can add a rotary air lock. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 10:16 AM, Tom Gensmer <tom@...> wrote:
?Hi Daniel,?
It would be helpful to know some additional details, such as:
-- Year machine was built?
-- Which bin is being filled, which is not being filled?
-- Are the filters clean, or packed with sawdust??
-- What kind of media are you collecting? Chips from a planer or shaper, or fine dust from a sander??
-- What diameter piping are you using??
My RL 160 fills the bins somewhat unevenly, but it seems to be dependent on whether I'm collecting chips or dust. I just keep an eye on the fill levels, and replace the bags as needed.... I'm running a RL160, 6" piping, mixture of dust and chips, antistatic filters, with pneumatic filter cleaning, which I make sure to actuate several times a day....?
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Hi Joe? Class act on the entrance!!when I was a door and window builder that¡¯s the stuff I used to do . If it was anything but straight and square that what I did. had my fill of that!!! Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 1:20 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
? Mac, FFI sells the Zenit hinge in 16 and 20mm. Adjustable in all directions and will take a heavy load. These require a fairly thick lip if your gasket is in the lip. Probably 18 to 22mm thick. I have jigs I can loan if you go with these. See pictures.GU makes a 3 part hinge that works with doors built with window system tooling with thin lips land gasket. I¡¯ll PM you the info on these. This one is very similar to Anuba brand. They are handed and minimum order of 10.Joe<517EFE38-540D-45E2-ADE9-87D6784499B2.jpeg> <0618A75A-A5E9-44DB-A731-F6DA4DA30D37.jpeg>
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
Thanks David, I was starting to suspect that was the trouble, it just wasn't making sense in my easily confused brain how the upper two nuts were going to get the job done. That diagram makes it very clear, much appreciated.
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Mac, FFI sells the Zenit hinge in 16 and 20mm. Adjustable in all directions and will take a heavy load. These require a fairly thick lip if your gasket is in the lip. Probably 18 to 22mm thick. I have jigs I can loan if you go with these. See pictures.
GU makes a 3 part hinge that works with doors built with window system tooling with thin lips land gasket. I¡¯ll PM you the info on these. This one is very similar to Anuba brand. They are handed and minimum order of 10.
Joe
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Hi Daniel,?
It would be helpful to know some additional details, such as:
-- Year machine was built?
-- Which bin is being filled, which is not being filled?
-- Are the filters clean, or packed with sawdust??
-- What kind of media are you collecting? Chips from a planer or shaper, or fine dust from a sander??
-- What diameter piping are you using??
My RL 160 fills the bins somewhat unevenly, but it seems to be dependent on whether I'm collecting chips or dust. I just keep an eye on the fill levels, and replace the bags as needed.... I'm running a RL160, 6" piping, mixture of dust and chips, antistatic filters, with pneumatic filter cleaning, which I make sure to actuate several times a day....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
? Number four is a washer - my mistake. I meant to reference number seven as the one to leave tight - it¡¯s not involved in the adjustment process. ?Number seven secures the lower carriage of the sliding table to the studs that move up and down via opposing nuts number three that are on either side of the machine chassis. The photograph is a better pictorial guide anyway. ?From the OP description it sounded like he was trying to use the wrong pair of nuts to adjust the height and tilt of the sliding table.? David Best - Sent from my iPad David Best - Sent from my iPad
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 5:53 AM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? David Best,
Nut #4, in your diagram, looks like a washer. ?
Wade On Jul 8, 2023, at 5:31 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Look at the following diagram. ?You should be making adjustments with the nuts labeled ¡°3¡±. ?My suspicion is you trying to adjust the slider height using nut #7 - others have gotten this confused as well.
 
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Greg <ghcustomwoodwork@...> wrote:
Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven¡¯t wired it up so haven¡¯t seen it run yet, but it¡¯s an understatement to say I¡¯m impressed. I¡¯ve just finished the assembly, and I¡¯m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I¡¯m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best¡¯s dial indicator method, I¡¯m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I¡¯ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I¡¯m working with.
So far I¡¯m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the ¡°inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can¡¯t get either of those ¡°inner¡± indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I¡¯m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can¡¯t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I¡¯ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
<IMG_9373.jpeg>
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?ALL : Thanks for your help? Functional Fenestration has AGB But not the adjustable type for vertical alignment I am looking for . Hafele US also has same type minimum order of 100. The doors I have the gasket is one frame one door, not that it makes a difference. mac,,,
 Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 7, 2023, at 11:54 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?Mac, I have not dug into this for quite a while but I don¡¯t think any distributors in the US for Anuba.
FFI and GU sell knockoffs of Anuba but if you need original most likely will have to come from Europe.
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The raised access floors, which are common in computer server rooms, are 2' x 2' metal/concrete/metal sandwiches with a hole on each corner to use a specific machine screw to screw into the supports that hold them up.? There is a suction cup device that you use to lift up the squares, if needed, giving you full access underneath them.? Mine is 18" off the cement floor, so plenty of room.? You need to think a little about routing the rigid ducting, but it really is a great solution to hide the ducting.? I've not seen anyone else use this approach, but I highly recommend it.? You can usually buy used raised access floors for a very reasonable amount, and have the pros install it, which they did in a day.? They also cut holes for the ducting through the squares (kids don't try that at home.? That generated more dust than anything I have ever seen.)
Really quite easy to adapt the Kapex to the Grit, although I should have been more specific.? I have the Grit turning on my two Jet air filters by having the Festool vac its attached to plugged into a 120V Grit trigger.? I have plans to make a small enclosure around the back of the Kapex and hooking that up to Nordfab ducting to have both my cyclone and Festool vac collecting chips from the Kapex, because as we sadly all know dust collection for miters saws is poor.? Even the Kapex, which is supposedly better than most.? Once I do that, I'll install a Grit gate to a Nordfab gate and I bet the dust collection will get markedly better.??
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
David Best,
Nut #4, in your diagram, looks like a washer. ?
Wade
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 5:31 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Look at the following diagram. ?You should be making adjustments with the nuts labeled ¡°3¡±. ?My suspicion is you trying to adjust the slider height using nut #4 - others have gotten this confused as well.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Greg <ghcustomwoodwork@...> wrote:
Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven¡¯t wired it up so haven¡¯t seen it run yet, but it¡¯s an understatement to say I¡¯m impressed. I¡¯ve just finished the assembly, and I¡¯m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I¡¯m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best¡¯s dial indicator method, I¡¯m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I¡¯ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I¡¯m working with.
So far I¡¯m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the ¡°inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can¡¯t get either of those ¡°inner¡± indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I¡¯m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can¡¯t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I¡¯ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
<IMG_9373.jpeg>
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
Look at the following diagram. ?You should be making adjustments with the nuts labeled ¡°3¡±. ?My suspicion is you trying to adjust the slider height using nut #4 - others have gotten this confused as well.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Greg <ghcustomwoodwork@...> wrote:
Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven¡¯t wired it up so haven¡¯t seen it run yet, but it¡¯s an understatement to say I¡¯m impressed. I¡¯ve just finished the assembly, and I¡¯m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I¡¯m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best¡¯s dial indicator method, I¡¯m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I¡¯ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I¡¯m working with.
So far I¡¯m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the ¡°inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can¡¯t get either of those ¡°inner¡± indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I¡¯m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can¡¯t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I¡¯ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
<IMG_9373.jpeg>
|
Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven¡¯t wired it up so haven¡¯t seen it run yet, but it¡¯s an understatement to say I¡¯m impressed. I¡¯ve just finished the assembly, and I¡¯m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I¡¯m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best¡¯s dial indicator method, I¡¯m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I¡¯ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I¡¯m working with.
So far I¡¯m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the ¡°inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can¡¯t get either of those ¡°inner¡± indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I¡¯m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can¡¯t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I¡¯ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
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Why dose my felder rl 200 only fill one bin
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Mac, I have not dug into this for quite a while but I don¡¯t think any distributors in the US for Anuba.
FFI and GU sell knockoffs of Anuba but if you need original most likely will have to come from Europe.
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KnockUout,
Ducting run under the floor? ?Have you ever had to make changes or modifications to your Nordfab pipe? ?Would it be easy to access it, if needed? ?
Do you have a picture of how you adapted the Grit to your Kapex?
Thx,
Wade
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On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:02 AM, knockuout@... wrote:
?I also installed a full GRIT Automation system on my Nordfab gates for my Felder A941 jointer, D951 Planer, FB710 Bandsaw as well as adding it to my SawStop ICS, Festool Kapex, and router table.? Most importantly, I put a Grit gate on my Grizzly Wide-Belt Sander.? Very recently I added a Hammer HS950 Edge Sander to my workshop, and added a GRIT gate to that too.? It was helpful that I already had a Nordfab set of piping to all my machines, so it was just minutes per gate to modify them. The GRIT system has really made amazing changes to my workflow.? No having to reach under machines to open gates.? My workshop sits on a raised access floor, so all the Nordfab ducting goes under the floor.? Awesome for keeping piping out of your way, but the gates are on the floor, sometimes under machine tables so it was always a huge pain to crawl under machines to open and close gates.? And what a joy it was when I would forget to open up the gate to the wide-belt sander and create a dust cloud.? I later added the air quality controls to my two Jet air cleaners, and it's great to have the workshop air clean virtually all of the time automatically.? I was pretty skeptical about this initially, but Joel has come through with flying colors. I had seriously thought about Ecogate's Greenbox system at the time, but am very glad I tool the GRIT route.? Really nice not having to trash all of?my Nordfab gates and replace them with expensive new Ecogate ones. My experience with Grit has been really remarkable.? They really do have the best customer service of any company I have dealt with.? Joel and Jacklyn are really remarkable people.? I can't recommend this company highly enough.? They have really been quite awesome to me.??  
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Mac, if you get really stuck try searching the Spanish market.
Over here you need to use a cover plate for specific colours, the covers are metal and quality, not the modern plastic rubbish. Kindest regards
Jonathan Samways
On Fri, 7 Jul 2023, 7:27 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Hi ,
any one have a contact for purchasing Anuba hinges?
in particular 452.05sm probably not current no.?
I need 6 nickel , I have bronze in stock.
preference is distributor?
thanks in advance
mac,,
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Hi ,
any one have a contact for purchasing Anuba hinges?
in particular 452.05sm probably not current no.?
I need 6 nickel , I have bronze in stock.
preference is distributor?
thanks in advance
mac,,
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I also installed a full GRIT Automation system on my Nordfab gates for my Felder A941 jointer, D951 Planer, FB710 Bandsaw as well as adding it to my SawStop ICS, Festool Kapex, and router table.? Most importantly, I put a Grit gate on my Grizzly Wide-Belt Sander.? Very recently I added a Hammer HS950 Edge Sander to my workshop, and added a GRIT gate to that too.? It was helpful that I already had a Nordfab set of piping to all my machines, so it was just minutes per gate to modify them. The GRIT system has really made amazing changes to my workflow.? No having to reach under machines to open gates.? My workshop sits on a raised access floor, so all the Nordfab ducting goes under the floor.? Awesome for keeping piping out of your way, but the gates are on the floor, sometimes under machine tables so it was always a huge pain to crawl under machines to open and close gates.? And what a joy it was when I would forget to open up the gate to the wide-belt sander and create a dust cloud.? I later added the air quality controls to my two Jet air cleaners, and it's great to have the workshop air clean virtually all of the time automatically.? I was pretty skeptical about this initially, but Joel has come through with flying colors. I had seriously thought about Ecogate's Greenbox system at the time, but am very glad I tool the GRIT route.? Really nice not having to trash all of?my Nordfab gates and replace them with expensive new Ecogate ones. My experience with Grit has been really remarkable.? They really do have the best customer service of any company I have dealt with.? Joel and Jacklyn are really remarkable people.? I can't recommend this company highly enough.? They have really been quite awesome to me.??  
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Re: Dust Collection Planning
Hi David,
Thanks for clearing up that question. Slip fit makes perfect sense. Indeed, if I go the same route, three blast gates will be needed, with one acting as the master, controlled by the Grit system.
By the way, nothing you do fails to impress. Thank you for the schematic and the detailed list of items used in your system. I have little doubt I will make used of them in the future.
Yours,
Alex
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On Jul 6, 2023, at 6:11 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
<Dust Collection Shop Layout.pdf>
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Re: Dust Collection Planning
Alex,
I use the quick connect fittings at the machine-side of the flex hose. ?It just slips on/off the dust extraction port flange. ?It¡¯s a tight enough fit, that no magnet or other latching device is necessary. ?I should also add that the flex hose I use is the heavy-duty stuff sold by Felder - it¡¯s metric and fits their quick connect element just fine. ?This is the 140mm fitting: ??
And this is the hose (which, unlike what Felder uses inside their saws and shapers, is a durable product with smooth insides):
I should also elaborate a bit more since I¡¯m using Imperial Nordfab and Metric Flex. ?I decided to make the transition from the metal pipe nominal imperial OD to the metric flex hose ID at the blast gate rather than at the machine. ?When I ordered the parts from Nordfab, I had them make those fittings and used their mechanical blast gates. ?
My entire system layout is documented in the attached drawing drawing with every part having a number. ?That number corresponds to items in the Nordfab parts list which is also attached. ?The J/P trunk line begins with part #5 in the drawing.
As you can see, for the J/P I have a 6" Ecogate blast gate (noted in RED), followed a Nordfab Y (#8), and from that Y, there is an outlet for the planer, and a separate outlet or the jointer. ?Each of hose outlets has a Nordfab manual blast gate (#11 and #15) and a Nordfab QF to 140mm OD fitting (#10 and #16) where the flex hose connects. ?So when I connect either of the hoses to the J/P extraction plenum, I open the manual blast gate for that hose. ?When I switch over, ?I close the manual gate on the flex hose that¡¯s coming off the machine, and open the manual gate that is going onto the machine. ?When the machine is powered on, the extractor fires up and the master electronically controlled blast gate for the J/P is opened. ?
In your case, if you have the Grit system automatically opening the gate and powering up the extractor when the J/P turns on, you¡¯d want a ¡°master blast gate¡± for the entire J/P controlled by the GritI first, then the Y pipe to two manual blast gates. ?That¡¯s how I have mine arranged (although I¡¯m using Ecogate). ?I¡¯m not sure how you¡¯d configure the Grit system to control two different blast gates for the same machine if you want the gate triggered when the machine is powered on - there¡¯s no way to know which of the two gates to open. ?So I suggest a ¡°master¡± gate electronically triggered by the machine turning on, and a manual blast gate for each flex hose that goes to the J/P. ?I hope this is clear.
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 6, 2023, at 4:37 PM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
Hi David,
Thanks for the prompt reply. And thank you for the photo. ?It answers all but one or two questions. ?I have the opportunity to do just what you suggest. ?So my next question is how do you switch from one operation to the other. ?I see you have two separate blast gates with two sections of flex hose. ?That is nice in that it keeps the flex hose behind the machine and out to the work area. ?I am wondering how you make the connection each time when you switch over? ?Obviously, you don¡¯t just flip over the dust hood. ?You have to disconnect one hose and connect the other. ?Do you have a magnetic quick connect, or do you use loosen and tighten a hose clamp each time? ?As an aside, I have placed the order to Grit Automation to automate the operation of my dust collector and blast gates. ?That should ship tomorrow so that I can hopefully finish the dust collection installation next week.
Thanks,
Alex
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Andy Pickler
Tom Gensmer
David P. Best
