Re: How do you store your Lamb Tool Works Parallel Fence?
I leave mine on unless it gets in the way of something, which is rarely…
Bill B
On Sun, Jun 12, 2022 at 14:47 PK < pk@...> wrote: I figured I would ask the collective group (hive mind) before starting out on my own designs.
I would really like to hang it on the wall next to my Kappa.
Has anyone figured out something that works well?
PK
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Joe, nice jig! I made mine how Mr. Keller had his when he used to Demo his own product at woodworking shows. I also have the 24” set and larger dovetail bits appropriate for the larger set. I think (FWIW) that If you are making dovetails, they should show because they are beautiful.? Nothing beats the simplicity of Keller!
I use the Keller jig but I made attachments for it as shown.? My "go to" drawer is through dovetails in 5/8 material for drawers using the Blum undermount.? I have written out the widths of the front/back/sides that will allow the dovetails to be nice and even at the bottom and top and for the drawer bottom groove for 1/4 or 3/8 thick drawer bottoms to not be visible from the sides while allowing 1/2 inch space under the drawer bottom to accommodate the Blum undermount hardware. ?
When I want to make dovetails for projects like the ones as shown, I first place the wood so that it is in contact with a stop block that is set to creates the appropriate alignment.? Then the other stop that is on a T track slides and can be tightened in place to prevent any movement.? I clamp the wood to the jig using the very simple 2 clamps that are adjusted for 5/8 thick stock.? Then, I cut using a router table with the bit set to the correct height using a height gauge.? Same setup pins and tails.? I know that if my wood is the right width, and the bit is at the right height, all will be well. ?
The only thing I can think of that would more simple other than perhaps a dedicated dovetail machine would be to use the jig with a shaper with HSK spindles dedicated to the bits so you do not have to measure the bit height.? It would be a preset.? However, it has been router table for me. ?
I once had a Leigh jig. Never used it and sold it for a loss.? What it can do looks great on their project photos, but for me, I was not into the learning curve and setup time.? I make enough mistakes as it is, and I like things as idiot proof as possible
-- Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
New Century Realtors
200 E. Big Beaver Rd.| Troy, MI | 48084
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Re: How do you store your Lamb Tool Works Parallel Fence?
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Re: Garth Multipress vs Soukup Press
I do not have any familiarity with the Soukup. ?It was not on my radar when I purchased the Barth Multipress that I got slightly used. ?I do not have one off the larger longer models. ?Mine has the perforated plate and I have the heavy expensive Barth rack and pinion accessories, but I seldom use them. ? I think perhaps I would if my Multipress was one of the larger models like in the video.
So far, with my model, ?the perforated plate mostly serves to allow me to have storage behind the unit using mag switches as shown. ?If I could do it over, I would not have purchased the accessories and would have done a better comparison with the Soukup. Maybe I would still have selected the Barth, but no hurry on add ons.
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I use the Keller jig but I made attachments for it as shown. ?My "go to" drawer is through dovetails in 5/8 material for drawers using the Blum undermount. ?I have written out the widths of the front/back/sides that will allow the dovetails to be nice and even at the bottom and top and for the drawer bottom groove for 1/4 or 3/8 thick drawer bottoms to not be visible from the sides while allowing 1/2 inch space under the drawer bottom to accommodate the Blum undermount hardware. ?
When I want to make dovetails for projects like the ones as shown, I first place the wood so that it is in contact with a stop block that is set to creates the appropriate alignment. ?Then the other stop that is on a T track slides and can be tightened in place to prevent any movement. ?I clamp the wood to the jig using the very simple 2 clamps that are adjusted for 5/8 thick stock. ?Then, I cut using a router table with the bit set to the correct height using a height gauge. ?Same setup pins and tails. ?I know that if my wood is the right width, and the bit is at the right height, all will be well. ?
The only thing I can think of that would more simple other than perhaps a dedicated dovetail machine would be to use the jig with a shaper with HSK spindles dedicated to the bits so you do not have to measure the bit height. ?It would be a preset. ?However, it has been router table for me. ?
I once had a Leigh jig. Never used it and sold it for a loss. ?What it can do looks great on their project photos, but for me, I was not into the learning curve and setup time. ?I make enough mistakes as it is, and I like things as idiot proof as possible
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How do you store your Lamb Tool Works Parallel Fence?
I figured I would ask the collective group (hive mind) before starting out on my own designs.
I would really like to hang it on the wall next to my Kappa.
Has anyone figured out something that works well?
PK
|
Re: Garth Multipress vs Soukup Press
I saw some your pics on Soukup's Instagram Dave Davies
I started looking at the Barth, but realized it wasn't the perfect solution and it started feeling expensive for my build out needs. Later found the Soukup and felt it had the foundational rigidity, force, and capacity needed. I have no regrets or feel the Soukup has ever been lacking, it's a tremendous setup.?
I still want to add flexibility perf plate and festool-style 20mm holes to match what I've already been doing on benchtops and festool accessories, but that's another step for the future and in practical use hasn't been a significant limitation.
That said: 1. It's big and it won't fit everywhere. I don't think I'd want it <10' ceiling height or fitting in a hobbyist garage. It would take an amazing set of casters to allow for practical mobility.
2. On larger joints, apply force until pressure relief kicks in. On smaller joints like cabinet doors, it has the power to crush. Often its just a bump of the motor to squeeze enough for small joints. But the push-of-a-button action is really handy.
3. It's astonishingly efficient at squaring up a frame and holding fast. There is nothing better I've found. I can do a dry fit clamp in seconds to verify my assembly, then release and tap everything apart. I can lay up door parts side-by side on the lower feet, apply glue with the faces up, assemble right there on the frame, and square/clamp in less time, less steps, and with 1 person better than any other methods for nearly any project of any size.
If the budget works for your needs, I recommend!
-Brett Wissel All, ? ?Looking for opinions on these two presses sold by Rangate.? If anybody has a Barth I'd be particularly interested in your thoughts on how well suited it is to clamping windows and doors (which Rangate lists as a negative) Thanks Dave Davies
BarthPositive? Ships flat packed so shipping?costs are reduced ? Many options available ? Available in 2.5m / 3m / 4m?lengths ? Base model is cost effective, but?with no options. Negative? Because it is a bolted frame, the amount of?force that can be applied is reduced, which?can make it difficult to clamp heavy frames?such as windows and doors ? Client must decide which model is correct for?sizing and budget, then this model is theirs?forever. Models to choose are RP / RPG /?RPGL. There is no expandability between?models only additional options. ? The delivery is lengthy, estimated 12-16?weeks at this time. ? Full assembly is required. ? Parts and service are now managed from?Germany to North American market. Soukup FP 32-?21Positive? Full welded frame for maximum?force able to handle heavy?timbers. ? Fully hydraulic unit both vertical?and horizontal, for maximum?force. ? Full assembled, easier to set up?and go into production. ? 1 base frame unit and could be?ordered in 2.5m / 3.2m / 4.0m .??the 3.2m is the most common. ? Full set of options that are?expandable between all sizes. ? Stock product for immediate?shipping. ? Fully supported with parts and?service, in stock in North?America. ? Cost effective against other?clamps on the market. Negative? Because of the fully welded frame the?shipping costs can be higher. ? At this time there is no wheel kit to move the?unit.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
I have the Keller but haven’t used it in a long time, i had a Leigh and man did it take a long time to set it up, sold it Keller is definitely faster.?
Sometimes on a small piece i will hand cut all of it, it just adds an element to the piece that machines can’t replicate (aka handmade?). Most of the time I cut my tails on the saw, hand saw and chop the pins, get a 14 deg blade they look much better in my opinion.
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On Jun 12, 2022, at 10:19 AM, Jeff <onehpbmw@...> wrote:
? I have a Leigh which I bought used on FB marketplace for about the same cost as the Porter Cable I've had for years.? For two drawers, it will take you longer to set either of them up than to actually cut the dovetails.? Or to hand cut them.? It would be cheaper for you to outsource them if that's what you normally do anyway.
I mostly build 18th century furniture reproductions.? I use Mike Pekovich's?hybrid method (tails cut on a tablesaw, pins hand cut with waste removed by router/bearing).? It works very well and is actually quicker than setting up either the PC or Leigh.
If you go that route, you'll want to get a tablesaw blade ground to 10° (which is 1:6).? They can be bought from Woodworker or Ridge Carbide, but they're expensive.? If you have an older blade you're not using, you can sent it out to be reground to those specs--CT Saw and Tool did mine (the original SawStop blade that came with my saw that I had never used) for 25 dollars including return shipping and I had it in my hands 2 days after they received it.? If you have other questions, feel free to ask.? Jeff ????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
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Setting up dovetails is enough of a pain that I've settled on one size for cabinets and vanities ( that are just functional, not artistic).? I like 9mm bottoms and half blind dovetails to hide the slots.? Years ago I found an Omec 650M for cheap and leave it
set up for one of the four sizes it comes with.? Pneumatic clamping and at least some dust collection.? Makes no real sense but I grin when I use it and it can crank out boxes in a couple of minutes with no set up.? I'm easily entertained.? Dave
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From: felderownersgroup@groups.io <felderownersgroup@groups.io> on behalf of Jeff <onehpbmw@...>
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2022 10:19 AM
To: felderownersgroup@groups.io <felderownersgroup@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Dovetail jigs
?
I have a Leigh which I bought used on FB marketplace for about the same cost as the Porter Cable I've had for years.? For two drawers, it will take you longer to set either of them up than to actually cut the dovetails.? Or to hand cut them.?
It would be cheaper for you to outsource them if that's what you normally do anyway.
I mostly build 18th century furniture reproductions.? I use Mike Pekovich's?hybrid method (tails cut on a tablesaw, pins hand cut with waste removed by router/bearing).? It works very well and is actually quicker than setting up either the PC or Leigh.
If you go that route, you'll want to get a tablesaw blade ground to 10° (which is 1:6).? They can be bought from Woodworker or Ridge Carbide, but they're expensive.? If you have an older blade you're not using, you can sent it out to be reground to those
specs--CT Saw and Tool did mine (the original SawStop blade that came with my saw that I had never used) for 25 dollars including return shipping and I had it in my hands 2 days after they received it.? If you have other questions, feel free to ask.? Jeff
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the
Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
|
I have a Leigh which I bought used on FB marketplace for about the same cost as the Porter Cable I've had for years.? For two drawers, it will take you longer to set either of them up than to actually cut the dovetails.? Or to hand cut them.? It would be cheaper for you to outsource them if that's what you normally do anyway.
I mostly build 18th century furniture reproductions.? I use Mike Pekovich's?hybrid method (tails cut on a tablesaw, pins hand cut with waste removed by router/bearing).? It works very well and is actually quicker than setting up either the PC or Leigh.
If you go that route, you'll want to get a tablesaw blade ground to 10° (which is 1:6).? They can be bought from Woodworker or Ridge Carbide, but they're expensive.? If you have an older blade you're not using, you can sent it out to be reground to those specs--CT Saw and Tool did mine (the original SawStop blade that came with my saw that I had never used) for 25 dollars including return shipping and I had it in my hands 2 days after they received it.? If you have other questions, feel free to ask.? Jeff
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
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Multi router these days.? I’ve got a Leigh Jig that sits on the shelf collection dust.? For me, its far less expensive to order boxes for routine cabinet type work and I only build if species or design warrants.? Anything in a piece of furniture I’m more likely to cut by hand.
I use Keller. Bought them a long time ago before composites. These work great and have basically large and small sizes. Flawless through dovetails. Here is a pic. ????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
New Century Realtors
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Re: Garth Multipress vs Soukup Press
I had Felder’s relatively manual version (circa 2003).? It had lever actuated hydraulic clamps.? Sold it a few years ago and do miss the functionality (my shop investments are as much ROS (return on space) as they are ROI as light industrial space is very expensive in my zip code).? Would take it back in a heartbeat though.? I thought to mention it after reading Brett’s comment about vertical space, it was a decent solution for a smaller shop with 8’ ceilings.
I started looking at the Barth, but realized it wasn't the perfect solution and it started feeling expensive for my build out needs. Later found the Soukup and felt it had the foundational rigidity, force, and capacity needed. I have no regrets or feel the Soukup has ever been lacking, it's a tremendous setup.?
I still want to add flexibility perf plate and festool-style 20mm holes to match what I've already been doing on benchtops and festool accessories, but that's another step for the future and in practical use hasn't been a significant limitation.
That said: 1. It's big and it won't fit everywhere. I don't think I'd want it <10' ceiling height or fitting in a hobbyist garage. It would take an amazing set of casters to allow for practical mobility.
2. On larger joints, apply force until pressure relief kicks in. On smaller joints like cabinet doors, it has the power to crush. Often its just a bump of the motor to squeeze enough for small joints. But the push-of-a-button action is really handy.
3. It's astonishingly efficient at squaring up a frame and holding fast. There is nothing better I've found. I can do a dry fit clamp in seconds to verify my assembly, then release and tap everything apart. I can lay up door parts side-by side on the lower feet, apply glue with the faces up, assemble right there on the frame, and square/clamp in less time, less steps, and with 1 person better than any other methods for nearly any project of any size.
If the budget works for your needs, I recommend!
-Brett Wissel All, ? ?Looking for opinions on these two presses sold by Rangate.? If anybody has a Barth I'd be particularly interested in your thoughts on how well suited it is to clamping windows and doors (which Rangate lists as a negative) Thanks Dave Davies
BarthPositive? Ships flat packed so shipping?costs are reduced ? Many options available ? Available in 2.5m / 3m / 4m?lengths ? Base model is cost effective, but?with no options. Negative? Because it is a bolted frame, the amount of?force that can be applied is reduced, which?can make it difficult to clamp heavy frames?such as windows and doors ? Client must decide which model is correct for?sizing and budget, then this model is theirs?forever. Models to choose are RP / RPG /?RPGL. There is no expandability between?models only additional options. ? The delivery is lengthy, estimated 12-16?weeks at this time. ? Full assembly is required. ? Parts and service are now managed from?Germany to North American market. Soukup FP 32-?21Positive? Full welded frame for maximum?force able to handle heavy?timbers. ? Fully hydraulic unit both vertical?and horizontal, for maximum?force. ? Full assembled, easier to set up?and go into production. ? 1 base frame unit and could be?ordered in 2.5m / 3.2m / 4.0m .??the 3.2m is the most common. ? Full set of options that are?expandable between all sizes. ? Stock product for immediate?shipping. ? Fully supported with parts and?service, in stock in North?America. ? Cost effective against other?clamps on the market. Negative? Because of the fully welded frame the?shipping costs can be higher. ? At this time there is no wheel kit to move the?unit.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
I use Keller. Bought them a long time ago before composites. These work great and have basically large and small sizes. Flawless through dovetails. Here is a pic.
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
-- Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
New Century Realtors
200 E. Big Beaver Rd.| Troy, MI | 48084
|
Pantorouter. Plus useful for many other things.
Not everyone's taste here, though.?
-Brett Wissel
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
|
????? Just wondering what most of you are using for a dovetail jig?? I'm thinking something simple, mainly to do one or two drawers on small jobs.? Maybe something? like a Porter Cable or Rockler is ok?? Or maybe there are other brands?? Is something like the Leigh worth the extra money?? Not sure if I really need to be able to adjust the spacing. For whole kitchens I outsource my drawer boxes.? Tom Ruth
|
Re: Garth Multipress vs Soukup Press
I started looking at the Barth, but realized it wasn't the perfect solution and it started feeling expensive for my build out needs. Later found the Soukup and felt it had the foundational rigidity, force, and capacity needed. I have no regrets or feel the Soukup has ever been lacking, it's a tremendous setup.?
I still want to add flexibility perf plate and festool-style 20mm holes to match what I've already been doing on benchtops and festool accessories, but that's another step for the future and in practical use hasn't been a significant limitation.
That said: 1. It's big and it won't fit everywhere. I don't think I'd want it <10' ceiling height or fitting in a hobbyist garage. It would take an amazing set of casters to allow for practical mobility.
2. On larger joints, apply force until pressure relief kicks in. On smaller joints like cabinet doors, it has the power to crush. Often its just a bump of the motor to squeeze enough for small joints. But the push-of-a-button action is really handy.
3. It's astonishingly efficient at squaring up a frame and holding fast. There is nothing better I've found. I can do a dry fit clamp in seconds to verify my assembly, then release and tap everything apart. I can lay up door parts side-by side on the lower feet, apply glue with the faces up, assemble right there on the frame, and square/clamp in less time, less steps, and with 1 person better than any other methods for nearly any project of any size.
If the budget works for your needs, I recommend!
-Brett Wissel
All, ? ?Looking for opinions on these two presses sold by Rangate.? If anybody has a Barth I'd be particularly interested in your thoughts on how well suited it is to clamping windows and doors (which Rangate lists as a negative) Thanks Dave Davies
BarthPositive? Ships flat packed so shipping?costs are reduced ? Many options available ? Available in 2.5m / 3m / 4m?lengths ? Base model is cost effective, but?with no options. Negative? Because it is a bolted frame, the amount of?force that can be applied is reduced, which?can make it difficult to clamp heavy frames?such as windows and doors ? Client must decide which model is correct for?sizing and budget, then this model is theirs?forever. Models to choose are RP / RPG /?RPGL. There is no expandability between?models only additional options. ? The delivery is lengthy, estimated 12-16?weeks at this time. ? Full assembly is required. ? Parts and service are now managed from?Germany to North American market. Soukup FP 32-?21Positive? Full welded frame for maximum?force able to handle heavy?timbers. ? Fully hydraulic unit both vertical?and horizontal, for maximum?force. ? Full assembled, easier to set up?and go into production. ? 1 base frame unit and could be?ordered in 2.5m / 3.2m / 4.0m .??the 3.2m is the most common. ? Full set of options that are?expandable between all sizes. ? Stock product for immediate?shipping. ? Fully supported with parts and?service, in stock in North?America. ? Cost effective against other?clamps on the market. Negative? Because of the fully welded frame the?shipping costs can be higher. ? At this time there is no wheel kit to move the?unit.
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Thoughts on the Router Spindle for Felder shapers?
Alex,
I am glad you are making good use of the FD250. That was one of my favorite machines as it allowed me to do so many door and window jointers tasks with precision.
I live in Bend. I spend as much time on my mountain bike as possible or cross country skate skiing depending on the season. Bend smells much better than New Orleans. The air is very fresh here most of the time.
I look forward to your lift and slide photos.
Joe in New Orleans
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On Jun 10, 2022, at 9:03 PM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
?Hi Joe,
That’s a great deal for someone interested in Lift and Slide. I already have the same set. Can’t see a need for another. Hopefully, someone will jump at the opportunity.
I hope all is well with you and yours in Oregon. Passed through Klamath Falls a couple days ago to take a class from ArcLight, in Bend, on their Plasma CNC machines. Stopped in Klamath Falls to purchase some 4/4 maple for $6.59/bf. Didn’t you settle in that general area?
I put your FD250 to good use cutting large mortises in my large door components. They are lift and slide, weigh 550# each. They are 90% complete, installed, but still have a lot of finish work ahead of me. I used FPL hardware. I’ll post photos when they are finished.
Have a great weekend.
Alex
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Re: Thoughts on the Router Spindle for Felder shapers?
Joe, I’m curious about your cutter set, please reach out when convenient.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Thoughts on the Router Spindle for Felder shapers?
I think this is very much a personal preference issue driven by the type of work you do and your tolerance for inconvenience.
I’ve tried both approaches (separate router table and swapping spindles in the shaper). ?And I also tried adapting a conventional router to the shaper spindle opening in a a KF700. ?That’s documented in the FO files section here: ??
I don’t like to swap spindles in the shaper, and I also don’t like to tear down setups on the shaper to run a short router bit job only to have to set up the shaper again ?I find it super convenient to have a separate router table, and there are some jobs that are much easier to accomplish on a router table (blind splines for small box joints as an example). ?To me, given the kind of work I do, a shaper and a router table are different beasts.?
I have a dedicated router table, and it comes in very handy. ? This router table design was my third and final attempt at getting what I consider “the ultimate”. ?It has built in dust collection for the router lift and the fence, including a sensor that triggers the RL160 and Ecogate blast gate just like all my other equipment in my shop/ ?It includes drawer storage and is on casters at the same height as my Kappa 400, so I also use it as an accessory panel cart and in/outfeed table. ?It’s documented here including the plans. ?
To the OP - think twice about the tradeoff of swapping spindles versus having a router table.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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On Jun 11, 2022, at 10:46 AM, Eric Janson < jej@...> wrote:
Lots of "different strokes / different strokes" in this thread. I do have a router spindle for my F700Z and it works fine, even with small- diameter bits. As Mac observed, the power makes up for it, even if the cutter edge speed is below spec - I suspect that the cutter edge speed specs actually have a fairly wide tolerance. The dust collection of the F700Z is excellent, but as noted by others, the Aigner fence is problematic for very small diameter bits. The router spindle delivers excellent results. That said, I found that I could not plan for router spindle work well enough to avoid?constantly changing the spindles back and forth. Some of you may be qualified as Indy 500 pit crews but I am not a quick- change artist! So I went ahead and got a cast iron router table and mounted it to my old Powermatic cabinet saw's?iron?table - the Powermatic is basically dedicated to ripping and dado work. I had to take the cast iron wing from the Powermatic to a machine shop to grind a 90 degree edge surface and tap holes to mount the router table top, but it was simple and now I have a big, flat cast iron surface to work with which is much easier than working?around the Aigner. I mounted a dedicated 2 1/2HP Makita router and an Incra dust shroud. Combined with a Woodpeckers router fence, only a very small share of the shavings escape the RL160. I have found that it's much faster and much more flexible to set up the router table for small and medium?jobs, leaving the tougher ones for the router spindle, now using maybe 10% of the time. Yes, it's more expensive to dedicate equipment, and you have to decide whether that tradeoff suits you. In my case, yes. And adding the cast iron router table to the Powermatic cost me zero additional floor space, which was a big plus. Pix of the router table and what's currently on the F700Z follow. Good luck with your projects! BR Eric Janson On Fri, Jun 10, 2022 at 10:03 PM Alex Bowlds < aabj@...> wrote: Hi Joe,
That’s a great deal for someone interested in Lift and Slide.? I already have the same set.? Can’t see a need for another. Hopefully, someone will jump at the opportunity.
I hope all is well with you and yours in Oregon.? Passed through Klamath Falls a couple days ago to take a class from ArcLight, in Bend, on their Plasma CNC machines.? Stopped in Klamath Falls to purchase some 4/4 maple for $6.59/bf.? Didn’t you settle in that general area?
I put your FD250 to good use cutting large mortises in my large door components.? They are lift and slide, weigh 550# each.? They are 90% complete, installed, but still have a lot of finish work ahead of me.? I used FPL hardware.? I’ll post photos when they are finished.
Have a great weekend.
Alex
> On Jun 10, 2022, at 8:08 PM, bacchus6015 via <joeinno=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
> ?Alex, speaking of lift and slide I still have a lift and slide cutter set, supported my Rangate that would sell for $300 plus shipping.?
>
> Joe in New Orleans
>
>> On Jun 10, 2022, at 3:38 PM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
>>
>> ?When it comes to the shaper, Joe Calhoon has a bag of tricks that seems bottomless.? Equally impressive is his willingness to share that knowledge with those of us that are, by comparison, fumbling in the dark.
>>
>> If you haven’t seen Joe’s shop, it is worth the trip to Ouray, Colorado.? Just the trip to Ouray is worth the trip.? It is a truly stunning place in the mountains.? Even better is to take one of the Alpine shaper classes hosted by Joe Calhoon with Greg from Rangate.? You can learn some of Joe’s tricks first hand while discovering how to build Tilt & Turn Windows and Lift & Slide Doors.?
>>
>> Thanks Joe, for the tip on the rosette manufacturing.? I wouldn’t have thought of that.? Seems pretty simple now.
>>
>> Alexbowlds
>>>> On Jun 10, 2022, at 9:05 AM, Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
>>> ?I use the router shaft on my T23 occasionally. Works fine even with the 9000 rpm top speed.
>>> I used it a while back to produce 120 large roset blocks. My lathe is weak and does not do well with this cutter.
>>>
>>>
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>>> <4046D489-0126-41A8-A1F8-B9519D077AA7.jpeg>
>>> <78CFC93C-E373-4C5B-9FB3-19B4E42BFACD.jpeg>
>>> <06D143D6-2A83-4375-B20E-F20F01E5DBB7.jpeg>
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Re: Felder Machines for sale One New AD951DD SOLD
Please see reduced prices on AD51 DD? ? FD250,,1 phase? and Kay phase converter thanks mac,,, Please contact me at: mac512002@...?
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Bill Belanger
Brian
PK
Jeff
Tom Gensmer
David P. Best