Re: Mantle Build Question
Hafele makes a lag that has two adjustable eccentric collars on it. You install them into the wall studs, drill holes 13mm or 17/32” in diameter about 5” deep into the shelf and then adjust the collars to make the shelf perpendicular to the way and slide the shelf on. No visible means of support and they work well. Not sure if I’d use them for a solid 7” thick mantel unless I could get two or more vertically on each stud, but they work great for shelving.
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 2:00 PM, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
I've done similar shelf installation down and dirty with lag screws into the studs. Once driven, the heads were cut off, and holes bore in the back of the shelves with an auger bit. Squirt some PL adhesive in the holes and slide it on. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Mantle Build Question
One nice things about a french cleat is that the thing hanging on the cleat can be leveled by placing shims between the halves of the cleat. ?
We hang a lot of art work with french cleats. ?Also, most of the shelves and things on the walls in my recently liquidated shop hung on French cleats.
Joe
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David,
That makes perfect sense. There is brick, on the wall, where this is going. I know the guy whose house it is going in but I am primarily helping my neighbor who decided to take up this challenge.?Brick does add some mounting challenges that i will need to figure out.
After all the suggestions, I have to say that I would not have considered french cleat (thanks Joe). I have a hutch hanging with french cleat in my shop and I am certain it weighs twice, if not more, than the mantle.
The simplicity of a mounting block is still attractive. I do not see why it would sag. The mounting block should not move once secured to the wall. The pocket done (in the rear of the mantle) on shaper should be precise and with .005” capability on the planer i can make the mounting block fit like a glove. I think a hardwood mounting block will hold screws better and reduce chances of sagging.
Imran ? Yea, if you did that you’d have to sheetrock down to the mantle after. ?In the case I was working on, we had gone back to the studs throughout the house, installed the brackets (for the mantle and a large bench in the DR under a bay window), did the rough electric and plumbing, then insulated with foam, installed the sheetrock and got that finished up, then installed the mantle against the sheetrock.
David,
Thanks for the details. I guess if I were to do this, i will probably epoxy the brackets in the mantle and then bolt the verticals to the studs while keeping mantle level. This on account of my ability to free hand drill as required to do this right.
Imran ? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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Hardwood glue-up panel on top on cabinet - wood movement
Looking for advices,
I am building floating (not touching the floor) lower closet cabinets and plan to put a hardwood panel glue-up on top. The assembly will be located in a recessed area and bumped into drywall on tree sides. So, no space for expansion on the sides, space for extension in front only.
I am wondering if I need to use something like you can see on this web page to fix the glue-up panel to the top of the lower cabinet?
Or I can be good with large holes (like Domino type holes) in the cabinet top and screw with washer to allow for movement.
Thanks,
Bill
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Re: KF700sp and AD741 used pricing
David,
The easy glide is a step up. ?My Profile shaper had easy glide but the spindle position was controlled by motors so I don’t have a direct comparison of hand wheel to hand wheel from old trunnion to easy glide.
I miss having a sliding table saw and a nice shaper. ?The two machines in the sale would make a very capable shop just add in Macs camps, Nordfab ductwork and an RL200 and off we go!
Joe
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This KF700 has a double trunion - not the single trunion from the pre-2004 era Brian is talking about. ?What it does not have is the new EasyGlide (Delrin) runners in the trunion, so it requires lube and more maintenance.
Thanks Brian for your description. I'm sure that the older trunnion may be just fine, but it does require more cleaning, lubrication and perhaps fussing with adjustments. ?That being said both saws that I reviewed were in acceptable condition and in need of attention. In need of attention from the stand point that it was difficult to tilt the saw blade and shaper trunnions. So did both saws need a good cleaning under the hood? ?Yes. ?Perhaps I could have purchased either KF700, cleaned lubricated and taken care of the issue. ?Perhaps after cleaning and lubricating I would have needed to learn how to make adjustments, repairs or have Felder service visit and spend a pretty penny adjusting or fixing a 14 to 17 year old KF700.
There are a variety of reasons why I chose not to buy these saws. ?I have learned a lot from this experience. ?I feel that a KF700 with newer double trunnions would be a better choice for me. These saws will probably make some lucky buyers very happy. It is important to do your due diligence in any machine purchase, however and my experience led me to a point were I needed to move on.
--?
Mike Barrow
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Re: Mantle Build Question
David,
That makes perfect sense. There is brick, on the wall, where this is going. I know the guy whose house it is going in but I am primarily helping my neighbor who decided to take up this challenge.?Brick does add some mounting challenges that i will need to figure out.
After all the suggestions, I have to say that I would not have considered french cleat (thanks Joe). I have a hutch hanging with french cleat in my shop and I am certain it weighs twice, if not more, than the mantle.
The simplicity of a mounting block is still attractive. I do not see why it would sag. The mounting block should not move once secured to the wall. The pocket done (in the rear of the mantle) on shaper should be precise and with .005” capability on the planer i can make the mounting block fit like a glove. I think a hardwood mounting block will hold screws better and reduce chances of sagging.
Imran
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 5:09 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Yea, if you did that you’d have to sheetrock down to the mantle after. ?In the case I was working on, we had gone back to the studs throughout the house, installed the brackets (for the mantle and a large bench in the DR under a bay window), did the rough electric and plumbing, then insulated with foam, installed the sheetrock and got that finished up, then installed the mantle against the sheetrock.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
David,
Thanks for the details. I guess if I were to do this, i will probably epoxy the brackets in the mantle and then bolt the verticals to the studs while keeping mantle level. This on account of my ability to free hand drill as required to do this right.
Imran ? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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Re: Mantle Build Question
And then there is the occasional young kid or an old young at heart kid that wants to hang from the floating mantle ????
Imran?
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 4:49 PM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote: ?A little math, and envisioning of the physics can also be useful.? Your mantle timber weighs about 130 pounds (2.8 cu ft x 45#/cu ft). Assuming studs on 16" centers, you'll have three studs to attach to, so each stud attachment point is carrying 43 lbs.? You can envision the attachment forces as hanging a 43 lbs weight at the center of gravity of the timber, like this drawing.? There are downward shearing forces on the cleat (blue), tension forces pulling outward on the screw (red), and compression forces pushing against the wall (yellow) It's probably intuitively obvious that these are not large forces and a simple french cleat is more than sufficient.??Also note that screws from the top into the cleat serve no purpose in Indiana (no earthquake there to lift the timber off the cleat, correct?) <Screen Shot 2021-01-06 at 1.34.46 PM.png> ??
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Re: KF700sp and AD741 used pricing
This KF700 has a double trunion - not the single trunion from the pre-2004 era Brian is talking about. ?What it does not have is the new EasyGlide (Delrin) runners in the trunion, so it requires lube and more maintenance.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Thanks Brian for your description. I'm sure that the older trunnion may be just fine, but it does require more cleaning, lubrication and perhaps fussing with adjustments. ?That being said both saws that I reviewed were in acceptable condition and in need of attention. In need of attention from the stand point that it was difficult to tilt the saw blade and shaper trunnions. So did both saws need a good cleaning under the hood? ?Yes. ?Perhaps I could have purchased either KF700, cleaned lubricated and taken care of the issue. ?Perhaps after cleaning and lubricating I would have needed to learn how to make adjustments, repairs or have Felder service visit and spend a pretty penny adjusting or fixing a 14 to 17 year old KF700.
There are a variety of reasons why I chose not to buy these saws. ?I have learned a lot from this experience. ?I feel that a KF700 with newer double trunnions would be a better choice for me. These saws will probably make some lucky buyers very happy. It is important to do your due diligence in any machine purchase, however and my experience led me to a point were I needed to move on.
--
Mike Barrow
|
Re: Mantle Build Question
Yea, if you did that you’d have to sheetrock down to the mantle after. ?In the case I was working on, we had gone back to the studs throughout the house, installed the brackets (for the mantle and a large bench in the DR under a bay window), did the rough electric and plumbing, then insulated with foam, installed the sheetrock and got that finished up, then installed the mantle against the sheetrock.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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David,
Thanks for the details. I guess if I were to do this, i will probably epoxy the brackets in the mantle and then bolt the verticals to the studs while keeping mantle level. This on account of my ability to free hand drill as required to do this right.
Imran ? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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Re: Mantle Build Question
The screws from the top stop the inevitable person that bumps “up” into it from knocking it off the dang wall (ask my how I know).
If you’re SURE nobody will bump it from below, they will.
My $.02
Brian? Sent from a device with less than stellar autocorrect
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 3:49 PM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
?A little math, and envisioning of the physics can also be useful.? Your mantle timber weighs about 130 pounds (2.8 cu ft x 45#/cu ft). Assuming studs on 16" centers, you'll have three studs to attach to, so each stud attachment point is carrying 43 lbs.? You can envision the attachment forces as hanging a 43 lbs weight at the center of gravity of the timber, like this drawing.? There are downward shearing forces on the cleat (blue), tension forces pulling outward on the screw (red), and compression forces pushing against the wall (yellow) It's probably intuitively obvious that these are not large forces and a simple french cleat is more than sufficient.??Also note that screws from the top into the cleat serve no purpose in Indiana (no earthquake there to lift the timber off the cleat, correct?) <Screen Shot 2021-01-06 at 1.34.46 PM.png> ??
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Re: Mantle Build Question
A little math, and envisioning of the physics can also be useful.? Your mantle timber weighs about 130 pounds (2.8 cu ft x 45#/cu ft). Assuming studs on 16" centers, you'll have three studs to attach to, so each stud attachment point is carrying 43 lbs.? You can envision the attachment forces as hanging a 43 lbs weight at the center of gravity of the timber, like this drawing.? There are downward shearing forces on the cleat (blue), tension forces pulling outward on the screw (red), and compression forces pushing against the wall (yellow) It's probably intuitively obvious that these are not large forces and a simple french cleat is more than sufficient.??Also note that screws from the top into the cleat serve no purpose in Indiana (no earthquake there to lift the timber off the cleat, correct?)  ??
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Re: KF700sp and AD741 used pricing
Mike,
You made the right call in my opinion. The price being demanded is for a pristine machine with everything in excellent working order.
Having said that, I have 2002 KF700 and no issues with trunion. So I personally would not walk away based upon that but if I cannot check the machine then the price has to reflect that. I completely understand that double trunion is preferred. I would not buy a used machine of this size and price if I could not test it, put a precision edge on it and check the arbor runout.
Imran
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 4:07 PM, Mike Barrow via groups.io <lunatuna23@...> wrote: ?Thanks Brian for your description. I'm sure that the older trunnion may be just fine, but it does require more cleaning, lubrication and perhaps fussing with adjustments. ?That being said both saws that I reviewed were in acceptable condition and in need of attention. In need of attention from the stand point that it was difficult to tilt the saw blade and shaper trunnions. So did both saws need a good cleaning under the hood? ?Yes. ?Perhaps I could have purchased either KF700, cleaned lubricated and taken care of the issue. ?Perhaps after cleaning and lubricating I would have needed to learn how to make adjustments, repairs or have Felder service visit and spend a pretty penny adjusting or fixing a 14 to 17 year old KF700.
There are a variety of reasons why I chose not to buy these saws. ?I have learned a lot from this experience. ?I feel that a KF700 with newer double trunnions would be a better choice for me. These saws will probably make some lucky buyers very happy. It is important to do your due diligence in any machine purchase, however and my experience led me to a point were I needed to move on.
--
Mike Barrow
|
Re: KF700sp and AD741 used pricing
When looking at any machine that hangs the guts from the cast iron table, you want to put a straight edge across near the opening to look for any depression in the top.? Beefing up the casting is cheaper than beefing up the base so many machines now use the
table to support mechanicals.? That is also aided by the smaller frame lighter weight motors and lighter components.? Some lower end machines also cheat on the table so the design isn't always better than using the base as the anchor.? Straight edges, feeler
gauges, dial indicators, and a good level ( like Brian's ) are your friends.? Don't leave home without them.? Dave
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Thanks Brian for your description. I'm sure that the older trunnion may be just fine, but it does require more cleaning, lubrication and perhaps fussing with adjustments. ?That being said both saws that I reviewed were in acceptable condition and in need
of attention. In need of attention from the stand point that it was difficult to tilt the saw blade and shaper trunnions. So did both saws need a good cleaning under the hood? ?Yes. ?Perhaps I could have purchased either KF700, cleaned lubricated and taken
care of the issue. ?Perhaps after cleaning and lubricating I would have needed to learn how to make adjustments, repairs or have Felder service visit and spend a pretty penny adjusting or fixing a 14 to 17 year old KF700.
There are a variety of reasons why I chose not to buy these saws. ?I have learned a lot from this experience. ?I feel that a KF700 with newer double trunnions would be a better choice for me. These saws will probably make some lucky buyers very happy. It is
important to do your due diligence in any machine purchase, however and my experience led me to a point were I needed to move on.
--
Mike Barrow
|
Re: KF700sp and AD741 used pricing
Thanks Brian for your description. I'm sure that the older trunnion may be just fine, but it does require more cleaning, lubrication and perhaps fussing with adjustments. ?That being said both saws that I reviewed were in acceptable condition and in need of attention. In need of attention from the stand point that it was difficult to tilt the saw blade and shaper trunnions. So did both saws need a good cleaning under the hood? ?Yes. ?Perhaps I could have purchased either KF700, cleaned lubricated and taken care of the issue. ?Perhaps after cleaning and lubricating I would have needed to learn how to make adjustments, repairs or have Felder service visit and spend a pretty penny adjusting or fixing a 14 to 17 year old KF700.
There are a variety of reasons why I chose not to buy these saws. ?I have learned a lot from this experience. ?I feel that a KF700 with newer double trunnions would be a better choice for me. These saws will probably make some lucky buyers very happy. It is important to do your due diligence in any machine purchase, however and my experience led me to a point were I needed to move on.
--
Mike Barrow
|
Re: KF700sp and AD741 used pricing
Brian,
I know that but I was wondering what Mike thought.
I ran 40 pound cutters on the year 2000 F700z I had with single trunnion and it worked. ?Hansjorg Felder told me the single trunnion was strong enough when I toured the Felder factory. ?
That said I would not recommend running 40 pound cutters for production but a hobby user running 6 or even 8” cutters on a single trunnion will be fine.
I think price is the limiting factor for this lot but I would not worry about the trunnions.?
Joe
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 11:50 AM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
The older machines have a single trunnion affair and it supports the whole spindle and motor system on one end of the assembly. This brings into account an adjustment nightmare dealing with “angle of the dangle” as well as toe-in and toe-out in the other direction. Failure to get the angle correct creates all sorts of issues when tilting the saw/shaper aggregate.
All that said, my old machine is of this design and once set, it’s pretty stable. If I was looking for a machine though, it would be the double trunnion machine… more easily adjusted and has better longevity of settings, and with the polymer materials used in the trunnion the smoothness and easiness of tilting is considerably better. On Jan 6, 2021, at 12:40 PM, bacchus6015 via ??< joeinno@...> wrote:
Mike,
What are the Trunion issues?
Joe
For a lot of reasons and assistance from some amazing people on FOG, I have backed out of this deal. ?The accessories and tooling are great, but the high price, age and trunnion issues make this offering good from afar, but far from good. ?Unfortunately, the seller will not part out the tooling and/or accessories and prefers to sell as a package deal. ?
Back on the search and contemplating buying new.
Thanks to everyone for their thoughts!
--?
Mike Barrow
|
Re: Mantle Build Question
I've done similar shelf installation down and dirty with lag screws into the studs. Once driven, the heads were cut off, and holes bore in the back of the shelves with an auger bit. Squirt some PL adhesive in the holes and slide it on. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Mantle Build Question
David,
Thanks for the details. I guess if I were to do this, i will probably epoxy the brackets in the mantle and then bolt the verticals to the studs while keeping mantle level. This on account of my ability to free hand drill as required to do this right.
Imran
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:22 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
|
Re: KF700sp and AD741 used pricing
The older machines have a single trunnion affair and it supports the whole spindle and motor system on one end of the assembly. This brings into account an adjustment nightmare dealing with “angle of the dangle” as well as toe-in and toe-out in the other direction. Failure to get the angle correct creates all sorts of issues when tilting the saw/shaper aggregate.
All that said, my old machine is of this design and once set, it’s pretty stable. If I was looking for a machine though, it would be the double trunnion machine… more easily adjusted and has better longevity of settings, and with the polymer materials used in the trunnion the smoothness and easiness of tilting is considerably better.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 6, 2021, at 12:40 PM, bacchus6015 via < joeinno@...> wrote:
Mike,
What are the Trunion issues?
Joe
For a lot of reasons and assistance from some amazing people on FOG, I have backed out of this deal. ?The accessories and tooling are great, but the high price, age and trunnion issues make this offering good from afar, but far from good. ?Unfortunately, the seller will not part out the tooling and/or accessories and prefers to sell as a package deal. ?
Back on the search and contemplating buying new.
Thanks to everyone for their thoughts!
--
Mike Barrow
|
Re: KF700sp and AD741 used pricing
Mike,
What are the Trunion issues?
Joe
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
For a lot of reasons and assistance from some amazing people on FOG, I have backed out of this deal. ?The accessories and tooling are great, but the high price, age and trunnion issues make this offering good from afar, but far from good. ?Unfortunately, the seller will not part out the tooling and/or accessories and prefers to sell as a package deal. ?
Back on the search and contemplating buying new.
Thanks to everyone for their thoughts!
--
Mike Barrow
|
Re: Mantle Build Question
For what it’s worth, this is a lot of clamps, lots of “bouncing” load like 16” out.
2 cabinet mounting screws into the studs, 3/4” French cleat. ? ?Not sure what they’re doing on the mantle that would need more than that.
  Sent from a device with less than stellar autocorrect
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On Jan 6, 2021, at 12:22 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Imran,
Here’s the drawing. ?Don’t underestimate the racking force here. ?The brackets ended up costing $150 and took 30 minutes to fabricate.
<screenshot_4605.jpeg>
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
After reading, I realized it would be better to screw the mantle to the blocking from top vs bottom. Imran On Jan 6, 2021, at 1:00 AM, imranindiana via < imranindiana@...> wrote: ?So a friend wants a live edge mantle from an Ash log. He already has the log cut on the band mill. It is 11” deep (sticking out from wall) and 7.5” tall (vertical). The mantle will be 5’ long. I can run the 11” wide top on the jointer and then make the back 90 deg to it. Finally run it thru planer to get the bottom parallel to the top. I need to return each end of the mantle so will need to cut 45s. I plan to do each 45 deg cut in two passes (due to 7”+ thickness) with material on one side of the xcut fence and then flipped and placed on the other side of the xcut fence. I have not done this so far. Finally i can plough a recess on the back side on all 3 pieces for mounting purpose and process a piece of wood that fits perfectly in the recess. With this piece mounted on the wall the mantle can be pushed on it and screwed from bottom. I can easily plough about 3” deep. Is that deep enough for a 11” deep mantle? I know there are many mounting options out there but would like to find out if what i described would work? Imran
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Re: Kappa 400 Below Table Dust Extraction + Kappa 400 Review
Mark,
Can you give us more colors about your reasoning of virtually going T60 instead of K940, or even T60 instead of Kappa 400 (basic no X motion). Price wise, as far as I know, a T60 with DRO is more comparable to a Kappa 400 basic.
Thanks,
Bill
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imran
David P. Best
Jason Holtz