Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Dave, consider the source. ?John at PM is a sales rep. ?If you want the inside skinny, give me a call, or talk directly to Matt? Nadeja?who owns PM. ?There is a PM forum that might also be useful -?? ? And read the document I attached to my last post.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Shinta, ? I have some Section 179 deductions I need to use this year... ?? ? I received the below from PM Dave
Dave,
We have had the 728V-T for a couple years now but have made some upgrades along the way which continually makes it a new model. But the 728V-T is like the little brother to the 833TV. Prototyping and custom work is great for the 728V-T. Also, if you have a power restriction the 728V-T runs off of standard 110V power. The 833T-V runs off of 220V power. If you are looking to get into multi piece orders and have a need for production. The 8333TV will be your workhorse lathe for years to come. The added weight and all around size compared to the 728V-T allows the 833T-V to attack the hardest of metals with minimal chatter. Those are just some compares and contrast of both machines. There are quite a few videos on the internet detailing both the 728VT and 833T-V and many of those videos have also been shared on our Facebook page if you wanted to check them out from there. Thanks!
Regards,
John C.
Sales-Precision Matthews Machinery Co. The PM728 is relatively new (July 2020 availability) whereas the PM833T has been around a couple of years.? This year PM introduced the 833TV which has 2HP vector-rated 3-phase motor and is belt driven by a Delta VFD which eliminates the need for a geared head like found on the 833T and for woodworking applications is probably a better alternative. ?
The 728VT has a 1HP BLDC motor. and is in a different league rigidity wise.? The PM728 weighs 340 pounds (which is about half the weight of the original Rong Fu 45 that I owned before upgrading to the PM935), whereas the PM833T (geared head) is 900 pounds and the PM833TV (VFD driven) is 750 pounds.? The attached might be interesting for anyone considering a mill in this category as an alternative to a DP. ? This link ?is is from 2003, and since then several FOG members have gone this direction in lieu of getting a traditional drill press: ??
Shinta, ? ?Was the PM728 available when you bought your 833? Dave Davies I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets expectation.? At one point, I considered restoring an old DP, but due to lack of experience in this arena, dropped the idea.? A few months back, we had a similar discussion on this topic.? The Ellis DP that David B linked to came up along with suggestion to go for a metal mill.? I have wanted to import a Yamamoto radial-arm DP from Japan for a long time, but the logistics prove difficult.? So, now I have a sitting in a crate in my shop.? The specs sheet states 0.0002-inch run out.? I think I will be happy drilling wood with it!? But that is not the main reason for the purchase.? I suppose the point is to consider metal working machines if you want more precision.??
SW
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Shinta, ? I have some Section 179 deductions I need to use this year... ?? ? I received the below from PM Dave
Dave,
We have had the 728V-T for a couple years now but have made some upgrades along the way which continually makes it a new model. But the 728V-T is like the little brother to the 833TV. Prototyping and custom work is great for the 728V-T. Also, if you have a power restriction the 728V-T runs off of standard 110V power. The 833T-V runs off of 220V power. If you are looking to get into multi piece orders and have a need for production. The 8333TV will be your workhorse lathe for years to come. The added weight and all around size compared to the 728V-T allows the 833T-V to attack the hardest of metals with minimal chatter. Those are just some compares and contrast of both machines. There are quite a few videos on the internet detailing both the 728VT and 833T-V and many of those videos have also been shared on our Facebook page if you wanted to check them out from there. Thanks!
Regards,
John C.
Sales-Precision Matthews Machinery Co.
The PM728 is relatively new (July 2020 availability) whereas the PM833T has been around a couple of years.? This year PM introduced the 833TV which has 2HP vector-rated 3-phase motor and is belt driven by a Delta VFD which eliminates the need for a geared head like found on the 833T and for woodworking applications is probably a better alternative. ?
The 728VT has a 1HP BLDC motor. and is in a different league rigidity wise.? The PM728 weighs 340 pounds (which is about half the weight of the original Rong Fu 45 that I owned before upgrading to the PM935), whereas the PM833T (geared head) is 900 pounds and the PM833TV (VFD driven) is 750 pounds.? The attached might be interesting for anyone considering a mill in this category as an alternative to a DP. ? This link ?is is from 2003, and since then several FOG members have gone this direction in lieu of getting a traditional drill press: ??
Shinta, ? ?Was the PM728 available when you bought your 833? Dave Davies I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets expectation.? At one point, I considered restoring an old DP, but due to lack of experience in this arena, dropped the idea.? A few months back, we had a similar discussion on this topic.? The Ellis DP that David B linked to came up along with suggestion to go for a metal mill.? I have wanted to import a Yamamoto radial-arm DP from Japan for a long time, but the logistics prove difficult.? So, now I have a sitting in a crate in my shop.? The specs sheet states 0.0002-inch run out.? I think I will be happy drilling wood with it!? But that is not the main reason for the purchase.? I suppose the point is to consider metal working machines if you want more precision.??
SW
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
The PM728 is relatively new (July 2020 availability) whereas the PM833T has been around a couple of years. ?This year PM introduced the 833TV which has 2HP vector-rated 3-phase motor and is belt driven by a Delta VFD which eliminates the need for a geared head like found on the 833T and for woodworking applications is probably a better alternative. ?
The 728VT has a 1HP BLDC motor. and is in a different league rigidity wise. ?The PM728 weighs 340 pounds (which is about half the weight of the original Rong Fu 45 that I owned before upgrading to the PM935), whereas the PM833T (geared head) is 900 pounds and the PM833TV (VFD driven) is 750 pounds. ?The attached might be interesting for anyone considering a mill in this category as an alternative to a DP. ? This link ?is is from 2003, and since then several FOG members have gone this direction in lieu of getting a traditional drill press: ??
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Shinta, ? ?Was the PM728 available when you bought your 833? Dave Davies I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets expectation.? At one point, I considered restoring an old DP, but due to lack of experience in this arena, dropped the idea.? A few months back, we had a similar discussion on this topic.? The Ellis DP that David B linked to came up along with suggestion to go for a metal mill.? I have wanted to import a Yamamoto radial-arm DP from Japan for a long time, but the logistics prove difficult.? So, now I have a sitting in a crate in my shop.? The specs sheet states 0.0002-inch run out.? I think I will be happy drilling wood with it!? But that is not the main reason for the purchase.? I suppose the point is to consider metal working machines if you want more precision.??
SW
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Hi Dave,
I am not sure if the PM-827VT was available at that time.? I remember people were discussing it on the PM forum (for CNC conversion?), but I did not research into it.? I don't think it was listed on PM website when I ordered the PM-833T.? I actually wanted a knee mill such as a PM-935 (or a Wells Index), but due to a number of factors, end up ordered the PM-833T.? It is the largest bench-top mill I can justify taking up space in my shop.? I wanted the 900-lb mass, rigidity, and low-end torque.? The PM-833T meets all these requirements on paper.? Why do you ask?
SW
|
Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Shinta, ? ?Was the PM728 available when you bought your 833? Dave Davies
I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets expectation.? At one point, I considered restoring an old DP, but due to lack of experience in this arena, dropped the idea.? A few months back, we had a similar discussion on this topic.? The Ellis DP that David B linked to came up along with suggestion to go for a metal mill.? I have wanted to import a Yamamoto radial-arm DP from Japan for a long time, but the logistics prove difficult.? So, now I have a sitting in a crate in my shop.? The specs sheet states 0.0002-inch run out.? I think I will be happy drilling wood with it!? But that is not the main reason for the purchase.? I suppose the point is to consider metal working machines if you want more precision.??
SW
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Talk to the people at Space Age Paint in Tempe, they will be able to tell you the best solution. I know a few guys that have repainted their Milling machines and such locally with paint from there.
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All new bearings, full repaint, etc.? Advice from the FOG on paint I can spray that super hard?? I don’t have the PPE to spray 2K poly. ? ? Figure out your bearings and order new ones too…. ? ? Amazon to the rescue but I have to wait until Sunday Check with McFadden-Dale in South Phx.,??they are supposed to have a good selection of that sort of thing. If nothing else, Amazon might too, or Grainger, or NAPA, or….. Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I’ve attached pics from the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled “housing” shows the whole assembly. Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench? First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ? Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut? Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end. I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier. I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that joint. Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I’ve never seen one before. The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
<Tanny Band Saw75.JPG><Tanny Band Saw72.JPG><Housing.jpg>
?
|
Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
All new bearings, full repaint, etc.? Advice from the FOG on paint I can spray that super hard?? I don’t have the PPE to spray 2K poly.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Brian Lamb
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2020 12:35 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
?
Figure out your bearings and order new ones too….
?
?
Amazon to the rescue but I have to wait until Sunday
Check with McFadden-Dale in South Phx.,??they are supposed to have a good selection of that sort of thing. If nothing else, Amazon might too, or Grainger, or NAPA, or…..
Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I’ve attached pics from
the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled “housing” shows the whole assembly.
Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?
First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ?
Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut?
Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end.
I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier.
I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might
be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that
joint.
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft
opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I’ve never seen one before.
The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the
bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
<Tanny Band Saw75.JPG><Tanny Band Saw72.JPG><Housing.jpg>
?
|
Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Figure out your bearings and order new ones too….
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Amazon to the rescue but I have to wait until Sunday ? ? Check with McFadden-Dale in South Phx.,??they are supposed to have a good selection of that sort of thing. If nothing else, Amazon might too, or Grainger, or NAPA, or….. ? ? Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I’ve attached pics from the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled “housing” shows the whole assembly. Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench? First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ? Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut? Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end. I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier. I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that joint. Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I’ve never seen one before. The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
<Tanny Band Saw75.JPG><Tanny Band Saw72.JPG><Housing.jpg>
?
|
Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Amazon to the rescue but I have to wait until Sunday
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Brian Lamb
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2020 11:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
?
Check with McFadden-Dale in South Phx.,??they are supposed to have a good selection of that sort of thing. If nothing else, Amazon might too, or Grainger, or NAPA, or…..
?
?
Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I’ve attached pics from
the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled “housing” shows the whole assembly.
Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?
First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ?
Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut?
Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end.
I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier.
I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might
be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that
joint.
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft
opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I’ve never seen one before.
The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the
bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
<Tanny Band Saw75.JPG><Tanny Band Saw72.JPG><Housing.jpg>
?
|
Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Check with McFadden-Dale in South Phx.,??they are supposed to have a good selection of that sort of thing. If nothing else, Amazon might too, or Grainger, or NAPA, or…..
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I’ve attached pics from the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled “housing” shows the whole assembly. ? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench? ? ? ? Joe? First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ? Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut? Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end. I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier. I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that joint. ? ? Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I’ve never seen one before. The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
?
|
Re: Hammer C3-31 cuts out issue
#hammer
You upgraded the motor, but what about the overcurrent protection? That will need to be changed/reset for your larger motor or what you describe will continue to happen. What does Felder say needs to be changed?
?
FWIW, I moved from a 5HP Sawstop to the 3KW/4HP CF531 and I noticed the reduced power as well. Not an enormous deal, but noticeable. I understand why if you had a 2.2KW you want to upgrade.
?
HI fellow woodies, I bought new a 2002 C3-31 and mostly use the table saw, (bought a used mini-max 350 for separate jointer planer) and Ive been having an issue where it cuts out when using it for not too long or like earlier when I was
resaving dried spruce 2x4's for spacers and took a while to resew 14 of them as it cut out about 8-9 times. ?it trips the power switch and then I have to wait about two minutes or switch will not stay in on position or it will but will cut out again when pushing
any load through saw. ?one thing to note is Felder sent me a new 3 KW motor that I had to pay an electrician to wire up cause it was way underpowered. ?the 3KW compared to the 2.2 KW motor has more power for sure, but sadly being used to Delta unisaw and powermatic
66 it does not have that kind of power. ?Anyhow, Im not sure if it has anything to do with a safety cutoff or heat buildup, (but, seriously softwood resawing I should be able to run 3-1/2" through with an aggressive rip blade, but I ended up resaving half
and then turning over and finishing the rest and still cut out on me, HELP PLEASE(-; ? ? ?Whilst Im here I thought I'd share a valuable remedy for vibration and cleaner cuts. ?My machine along with power and cutoff issues had a vibration issue and even with
a sharp HI-AT Forrest blade in wouldn't yield clean cuts. ?I was able to mostly remedy this with a blade stabilizer from Forrest that is basically a small diameter blade without the teeth and it has helped a lot. ?cheers!
|
Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
Sounds like the only type of blade to use now that you bring it up and I think about the dangers associated with radial arm saws.
|
Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
McMaster Carr has a great page on pin wrenches, if only to get
you calibrated as to what kind / size you need:
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
On 11/5/2020 9:16 AM, Joe Jensen wrote:
Got advice from
someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded
bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench??
I’ve attached pics from the other fellow and a pick of the
assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and
then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled
“housing” shows the whole assembly.
?
Where is a good place
to get a spanner wrench?
?
?
?
Joe?
First nut seems like a dumb design but ya
a looking method. ?
Might be better off with double hook
wrench ?nut?
Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a
spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure
the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other
end.
I find that cleaning off everything first
make working. On job much easier.
I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP
purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP
foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use
out side.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50
years
On Nov
5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...>
wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the
face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to
say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what
does the opposite end look like? The end on the other
side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the
spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is
tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a
nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two
pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and
look closely at that joint.
?
?
Need
some help from my FOG friends.? The first two
pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of
the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel
shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot
around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw
in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place
once the preload on the bearings is correct?
I’ve never seen one before.
The
second two pics are of the other end of the
shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like
a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart
around the bushing.? Seems like that might be
threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a
punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.?
Any advice on how to get this off, or do I
just press the shaft out from the other side?
?
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Hammer C3-31 cuts out issue
#hammer
On 5-11-2020 04:43, pswoodworking@... wrote: HI fellow woodies, I bought new a 2002 C3-31 and mostly use the table saw, (bought a used mini-max 350 for separate jointer planer) and Ive been having an issue where it cuts out when using it for not too long or like earlier when I was resaving dried spruce 2x4's for spacers and took a while to resew 14 of them as it cut out about 8-9 times. ?it trips the power switch and then I have to wait about two minutes or switch will not stay in on position or it will but will cut out again when pushing any load through saw. ?one thing to note is Felder sent me a new 3 KW motor that I had to pay an electrician to wire up cause it was way underpowered. Might seem stupid, but is the saw blade turning in the correct direction? It might be you electrician switched to leads making it spin in the reverse direction and cause bad cutting speed, vibration and heat. Correct direction is the blade spinning clockwise when looked upon from the slider side of the machine. The fact it cuts out after a while and makes it reset makes me think it is a thermal issue. Kind regards, Jonathan
|
Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one.? That is a threaded bushing.? Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?? I’ve attached pics from
the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from my saw.? The locking nut is on one end and then threaded bushing is on the other.? This pic labeled “housing” shows the whole assembly.
?
Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench?
?
?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2020 9:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
?
Joe?
First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ?
Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut?
Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end.
I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier.
I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might
be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that
joint.
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?
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft
opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I’ve never seen one before.
The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the
bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
?
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets expectation.? At one point, I considered restoring an old DP, but due to lack of experience in this arena, dropped the idea.? A few months back, we had a similar discussion on this topic.? The Ellis DP that David B linked to came up along with suggestion to go for a metal mill.? I have wanted to import a Yamamoto radial-arm DP from Japan for a long time, but the logistics prove difficult.? So, now I have a sitting in a crate in my shop.? The specs sheet states 0.0002-inch run out.? I think I will be happy drilling wood with it!? But that is not the main reason for the purchase.? I suppose the point is to consider metal working machines if you want more precision.??
SW
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Re: Cut Wood with Non-Ferrous Blade?
You should use a negative rake on both radial and cutting alu.? aluminum should use lubricant on saw blades.? If raw aluminum it gums up fast ?I never use that stuff? Make sure aluminum is mechanically clamp or you will probably get stung or worse. Do not use positive rakes period... Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 3, 2020, at 11:08 AM, michael@... wrote:
?Most blades will cut wood, but only very sharp blades will cut well in aluminium (same goes for plastics). I would only cut wood if necessary and keep away from abrasive stuff like MDF.
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Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
Joe? First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. ? Might be better off with double hook wrench ?nut? Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads and measure the shaft more than likely remove and push through to other end. I find that cleaning off everything first make working. On job much easier. I have a dip tank with 20 gallons of ZEP purple mad out of plastic from with garbage can lid. ZEP foam oven cleaner is also very handy stuff if you can use out side. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Nov 5, 2020, at 9:25 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that joint.
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I’ve never seen one before. ? The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
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Re: Tannewitz disassembly questions for the brain trust
The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the other side of the bracket? There might be a nut there, and the spanner holes are to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened. If that piece with the spanner holes is a nut, you should be able to see a line indicating two pieces on the shaft side, so clean the grease off and look closely at that joint.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Need some help from my FOG friends.? The first two pics are just a curiosity.? They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft opposite the wheel.? There is a slot around about 1/5th of the nut and a set screw in the face.? Is this to lock the nut in place once the preload on the bearings is correct? I’ve never seen one before. ? The second two pics are of the other end of the shaft.? Next to the bearing is what looks like a bushing with two holes, 180 degrees apart around the bushing.? Seems like that might be threaded but not sure.? I tried tapping with a punch and it does not seem to want to rotate.? Any advice on how to get this off, or do I just press the shaft out from the other side?
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Re: Powermatic 2820 EVS drill press
Paul, I bought a Luna MD20BV. I think Luna is a Swedish brand, and the machine seems to only be available in Sweden, Norway and Denmark.
I might add (since we are at the Felder forum), that my first machine was a Hammer drill press. I urge you to stay away from that one. I have a Hammer bandsaw (N4400) and a Hammer planer/jointer (A3-31). The drill press is far from those other tools in quality. I was literally scared that it would fall apart when I used it.
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David P. Best
Joe Jensen
Jonathan Martens
