Hi Joe, ?I have a lot of time for relocation, placing casters just step in between, only because I am going to lift machine anyway and floor in a new shop - concrete. ?If you think that better to place caster in the new place - maybe you are correct. I will change my plan accordingly. Question remain - how many casters?
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On May 28, 2020, at 10:55, bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote:
Hi Ed,
I have Zambus casters on several machines.
I bought the casters with 10mm studs and used double nuts on the back side that way no drilling was necessary.
The casters don¡¯t do well on uneven or rough surfaces as the wheels are small. ?
If you are considering using the casters to roll your machines into trucks with uneven thresholds then there are better solutions. ?Like a pallet jack.
Once your machines are in place then the casters should be installed. ?
I find it easier to move my CF731 with a pallet jack in the shop but I only move it every couple of years. ?I have the levelers set and mark the floor so I can get the machine back in the same place and level without adjusting the levelers. ?So no need for Zambus casters on the CF731. ?
?
Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
|
Hi Ed,
I have Zambus casters on several machines.
I bought the casters with 10mm studs and used double nuts on the back side that way no drilling was necessary.
The casters don¡¯t do well on uneven or rough surfaces as the wheels are small. ?
If you are considering using the casters to roll your machines into trucks with uneven thresholds then there are better solutions. ?Like a pallet jack.
Once your machines are in place then the casters should be installed. ?
I find it easier to move my CF731 with a pallet jack in the shop but I only move it every couple of years. ?I have the levelers set and mark the floor so I can get the machine back in the same place and level without adjusting the levelers. ?So no need for Zambus casters on the CF731. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
|
Hi all,
I am planning to move my shop to another location and decided to place Zambus casters before move. I have CF531 combination machine.
First question - should I place 6 casters: 4 under saw and shaper and another two outside corner of planer? Or, I already has all 8 of it, should I place all casters. My concern - how rigid connected planer to body of shaper/saw unit? What you will recommend?
And another question - stem for casters size M12. I would need to drill bigger size hole in the supported plates in the machine. What will be the best way to do it? For now my plan is to lift machine with?HYDRAULIC FLOOR CRANE approximately 3-4 inches up and place it on 2 by 4s, use angle drill to adjust size of the holes and install asters. Is it sound reasonable?
Thank you, Ed.
|
Agreed. I have a 20-year old Senco 18-ga nailer that will sink 15mm brads on about 55 psi. Sounds like the gun is leaky or has an undersized cylinder.
?
BTW ¨C I bought the Milwaukee Gen 2 18-ga battery-powered brad nailer. It¡¯s a big boy compared to an air nailer, but I love the convenience of no hose and no surprise air compressor starts (maybe I have PTSD, but the compressor randomly
starting bugs me way more than the predictable noise of tools I turn on manually). Milwaukee¡¯s first-gen brad nailer sucked, so beware of buying a used one, but the Gen2 is awesome. At a lower price point I¡¯ve heard the Ryobi¡¯s are good, too, but I¡¯m a Milwaukee
shop so I waited until they came out with a good product.
?
I have to chime in on this one since I use brad nailers and all sorts of nailers from pinners, to finish nailers..
Your issue may be the nailer itself.. Inexpensive knock-off guns, tend to not work so well compared to their counterparts. They are made cheaply and their tolerances are not as
good as brands such as Makita, (older) Senco, Bostitch, Grex, Cadex...just to name a few.? This is where the old adage comes into play that you get what you pay for.?
Now..that does not mean they won't work, they do, but sometimes you get less than stellar results.? I would try a better brand and see how well it works compared to the gun your
using and go from there.. Bump your compressors regulator for the outfeed air to minimum to 100psi and try that.
On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 04:23:44 AM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
I did forget to answer your question. You should be able to set brad in at least 1/16¡± may be more. I know it never has been an issue filling the hole with a filler
when needed.
On May 28, 2020, at 2:01 AM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote:
?Thanks Imran,?the Nailer I have is a brand sold in Australia by tool company call Trade Tools, it is a re-badge?
Chinese brand, I think it may be the same as Freeman which are sold at home depo. Most of their rebadged tools are not top shelf quality but they are generally quite serviceable.
Murray
|
Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
I have a Woodpeckers PRL-V2 lift, in a standalone router table, and a Jessum Master Lift II in the right end of my table saw.
Of the two, I prefer the Jessum Master Lift II.
Incra sells both of these lifts, with their name. They change out the top plate so you can use the magnetic clean sweep inserts. I highly recommend these inserts for dust collection.
Chris Edwards (407) 902-1358 cell
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On May 28, 2020, at 5:54 AM, Bill Hope < hope.we@...> wrote:
Hi Jose,
I have an?INCRA PRL-V2 Lift on an extension attached to a TS that I'm replacing. It's okay. I find the fine adjustment wheel to be a bit awkward to use and if I do end up with another router table, I was going to try the Jessem. I'll be curious if you get the opportunity to compare the two. I have a?Leigh RJT400 dovetail jig that probably isn't going to work on a shaper with a router spindle, so I'll either have to replace the dovetail jig or get a router table, which I don't really have room for.?
--?
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
I have to chime in on this one since I use brad nailers and all sorts of nailers from pinners, to finish nailers.. Your issue may be the nailer itself.. Inexpensive knock-off guns, tend to not work so well compared to their counterparts. They are made cheaply and their tolerances are not as good as brands such as Makita, (older) Senco, Bostitch, Grex, Cadex...just to name a few.? This is where the old adage comes into play that you get what you pay for.?
Now..that does not mean they won't work, they do, but sometimes you get less than stellar results.? I would try a better brand and see how well it works compared to the gun your using and go from there.. Bump your compressors regulator for the outfeed air to minimum to 100psi and try that.
On Thursday, May 28, 2020, 04:23:44 AM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
I did forget to answer your question. You should be able to set brad in at least 1/16¡± may be more. I know it never has been an issue filling the hole with a filler when needed.
Imran
On May 28, 2020, at 2:01 AM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote: ?Thanks Imran,?the Nailer I have is a brand sold in Australia by tool company call Trade Tools, it is a re-badge? Chinese brand, I think it may be the same as Freeman which are sold at home depo. Most of their rebadged tools are not top shelf quality but they are generally quite serviceable.
Murray
|
Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
Bill,
I think?
Leigh RJT400 dovetail jig can work with the router spindle. You just need to make a shaper insert ring which accepts the router table insert with the Leigh eBush.
I used OF1400 and plywood to make a shaper insert?ring for my KF700 to support the stock. The original shaper steel insert leaves too much gap for the 115mm diameter shaper cutter, I get inconsistent cut?result at the?leading and trailing end of the stock when using the power feeder.?
James
On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 6:55 AM Bill Hope < hope.we@...> wrote: Hi Jose,
I have an?INCRA PRL-V2 Lift on an extension attached to a TS that I'm replacing. It's okay. I find the fine adjustment wheel to be a bit awkward to use and if I do end up with another router table, I was going to try the Jessem. I'll be curious if you get the opportunity to compare the two. I have a?Leigh RJT400 dovetail jig that probably isn't going to work on a shaper with a router spindle, so I'll either have to replace the dovetail jig or get a router table, which I don't really have room for.?
--?
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
Re: Adjustable Groover Item # 03.0.033 depth of cut
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On May 27, 2020, at 9:49 PM, Brian Lamb <bklamb1@...> wrote: ?
It has a countersunk bolt to hold it to the spindle, so nothing protrudes from the top. You can cut as wide a step as you want by taking multiple passes.
=============== Brian Lamb blamb11@... Phoenix, AZ ===============
Jonathon,
?
Sorry thick headed, not following this, ¡°They made me a combi head to fit the Felder spindle which allows you to fly over the cutter so with two passes you can achieve a deep tennon¡±
?
The link for combi head says Felder/Hammer. I assume that means it would take Felder 40mm safety cutterhead blades. True?
?
Imran
?
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of jontathan samways
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2020 4:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Adjustable Groover Item # 03.0.033 depth of cut
?
Whitehill have made me a few heads....there good quality....also Dave gave me a personal tour of the factory which was fascinating.?
They made me a combi head to fit the Felder spindle which allows you to fly over the cutter so with two passes you can achieve a deep tennon.
?
Whitehill has really expanded their offering, and at less than half the cost of Rangate, are a great value IMO. ? And a lot of their profiles are unique and very attractive in the US market.
Another alternative for tenoning is a conventional dado set bored to 30mm - here¡¯s a double stack of Forrest Dado King 10¡± dado cutters on my KF700 - this needs a proper tenoning hood for sure:
I used that setup to tenon 5x5 fence rails to 3?¡± depth. ? ?This link might be useful: ???
?
?
?
I have two of the Felder rebate heads noted by David ¡ª probably because of his recommendation in the Survival Guide.? I have used them for tenons with no issues, although the will not drop below the table of my CF741 due to their diameter (220mm).? I use a
piece of ?¡± plywood as a tenoning plate to raise the stock and rebate heads.
An alternative, that appears to be less money with greater depth (99mm!) are the tenon plates from Whitehill:
?
I have two of these and you can do 74mm deep cuts. Pretty close to 3¡±
?I wanted to see if anyone knows the depth of cut available when using the Felder Adjustable Groover as a tenon cutter on the shaper? Here is the link to the exact itemhttps://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US/en-US/Sawing/Tongue-and-groove-cutters/Adjustable-Dado-Cutter-for-Saw-Unit-RB-HW-Adjustable-groover-12-0-20-0-mm.html
I have the 700 series shaper with the 230mm hood. Are there any other options for tenon cutters that will get me 3 inches or so of depth that you recommend?
Thanks
Michael
?
?
-- Brian Lamb blamb11@...? ?
|
I did forget to answer your question. You should be able to set brad in at least 1/16¡± may be more. I know it never has been an issue filling the hole with a filler when needed.
Imran
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Show quoted text
On May 28, 2020, at 2:01 AM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote: ?Thanks Imran,?the Nailer I have is a brand sold in Australia by tool company call Trade Tools, it is a re-badge? Chinese brand, I think it may be the same as Freeman which are sold at home depo. Most of their rebadged tools are not top shelf quality but they are generally quite serviceable.
Murray
|
Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
We have had festool router system with sliding table, and loved it compared to other router systems we used. We keep an of2200 in it. Funny thing is once we got our shaper router spindle, the Festool setup has only been used when the shaper was occupied. Festool guards and fence are just junior versions of the Felder shaper counterparts. Swapping out the spindle and belt in the shaper is less effort than swapping router bits and setting up on the router table,and the quality feels like multiple thousands of dollars difference,too.
|
Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
Hi Jose,
I have an?INCRA PRL-V2 Lift on an extension attached to a TS that I'm replacing. It's okay. I find the fine adjustment wheel to be a bit awkward to use and if I do end up with another router table, I was going to try the Jessem. I'll be curious if you get the opportunity to compare the two. I have a?Leigh RJT400 dovetail jig that probably isn't going to work on a shaper with a router spindle, so I'll either have to replace the dovetail jig or get a router table, which I don't really have room for.?
--?
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
I recently starting having issues with getting boards straight on my A941 jointer, Im assuming something has gone out of allignment but Im not quite sure where to start. When I joint the edges of a 800mm board Im getting a concave joint by about 0.5-1mm. However, when I am flattening a long board I often now find that the blades dont touch the last 20% of the board so I end up having to switch the board around so its going across "backwards" first and then the blades do touch that missed area but then dont touch the final 20% of the board which it was getting on the first pass. I hope that reads a little easier than I think it does!
My theory is that the outfeed table might be leaning out of straight with the edge furthest from the blade being the lowest. Anyone had an issue like this or have any suggestions for how I improve my technique? As a side note, I wasnt having any of these issue for the previous 6 months that I owned the machine
Thanks all!
|
Thanks Imran,?the Nailer I have is a brand sold in Australia by tool company call Trade Tools, it is a re-badge? Chinese brand, I think it may be the same as Freeman which are sold at home depo. Most of their rebadged tools are not top shelf quality but they are generally quite serviceable.
Murray
|
Hi Murray,
You did not say which brand/model of brad nailer you purchased. Mine in Bostitch and it shoots, IIRC, from 5/8¡° to 2¡±. The depth is adjusted like you mentioned by a wheel. As you increase/decrease the depth you can easily see the head move in/out.
I have a baby California compressor and it goes to 120PSI. I remember calling them as it was turning of sooner than 120 PSI. I believe they told me how to fix it otherwise I would still be pissed. My shop compressor still smallish trips at 125PSI.
To state the obvious, to get consistent results the compressor should turn on before the pressure drops to what the tool is operating at, hopefully with some margin.
Imran
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On May 27, 2020, at 11:15 PM, murrayau1 <murraywp@...> wrote: ?Hi all
I just bought a Brad Nailer, I have never owned any sort of pneumatic nailing tool before.
I have some 18 gauge brads, the smallest are 15 mm and the longest 30. I have tested it in some softwood and some very hard hardwood and it seems to consistently bury the head but only just. Much of what I read suggested that the depth of penetration depends on the pressure setting but the pressure doesn't seem to make much difference until the tank pressure starts dropping to the pressure where the pump kicks in (I think this is about 86 psi on my compressor) there is a knob just in front of the nailer trigger which I think controls depth, if I wind it back it will leave the heads just protruding but even when I turned it to the maximum in only just sinks them.
I'm try to work out a number of things so I have the following questions:
Is it normal if you have a good Brad nailer and a suitable compressor that you should be able to adjust things so that you can comfortably bury the head?
Any ideas as to whether my problem is caused by the compressor or the nailer?
I think my compressor (a bit hard to read the small gauge) kicks in at about 86 psi and switches off just over 100. Is this an acceptable range? From what I've read on the Internet the suggestion seems to be 90?to 100 psi. Given that many tools need more than 90 this seems a bit strange, are you just supposed to put up with the tool slowing down too much before the pump kicks in? The instruction manual does show how to modify the compressor settings but warns against doing so.
Thanks in advance
Murray
PS my compressor is a Chicago air Hush 30. I think it is a knockoff of a California Air design. The tank is 30 L or 6.5 gallons, it's supposed to have an FAD of 110 L per minute which I think is about 4 CFM.
|
Hi all
I just bought a Brad Nailer, I have never owned any sort of pneumatic nailing tool before.
I have some 18 gauge brads, the smallest are 15 mm and the longest 30. I have tested it in some softwood and some very hard hardwood and it seems to consistently bury the head but only just. Much of what I read suggested that the depth of penetration depends on the pressure setting but the pressure doesn't seem to make much difference until the tank pressure starts dropping to the pressure where the pump kicks in (I think this is about 86 psi on my compressor) there is a knob just in front of the nailer trigger which I think controls depth, if I wind it back it will leave the heads just protruding but even when I turned it to the maximum in only just sinks them.
I'm try to work out a number of things so I have the following questions:
Is it normal if you have a good Brad nailer and a suitable compressor that you should be able to adjust things so that you can comfortably bury the head?
Any ideas as to whether my problem is caused by the compressor or the nailer?
I think my compressor (a bit hard to read the small gauge) kicks in at about 86 psi and switches off just over 100. Is this an acceptable range? From what I've read on the Internet the suggestion seems to be 90?to 100 psi. Given that many tools need more than 90 this seems a bit strange, are you just supposed to put up with the tool slowing down too much before the pump kicks in? The instruction manual does show how to modify the compressor settings but warns against doing so.
Thanks in advance
Murray
PS my compressor is a Chicago air Hush 30. I think it is a knockoff of a California Air design. The tank is 30 L or 6.5 gallons, it's supposed to have an FAD of 110 L per minute which I think is about 4 CFM.
|
Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
Hi David and Joe,
Have you all found any issues when it comes to putting profiles on thin stock?? That is one concern I have.
Thanks
|
Re: Adjustable Groover Item # 03.0.033 depth of cut
It has a countersunk bolt to hold it to the spindle, so nothing protrudes from the top. You can cut as wide a step as you want by taking multiple passes.
=============== Brian Lamb blamb11@... Phoenix, AZ ===============
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Jonathon,
?
Sorry thick headed, not following this, ¡°They made me a combi head to fit the Felder spindle which allows you to fly over the cutter so with two passes you can achieve a deep tennon¡±
?
The link for combi head says Felder/Hammer. I assume that means it would take Felder 40mm safety cutterhead blades. True?
?
Imran
?
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of jontathan samways
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2020 4:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Adjustable Groover Item # 03.0.033 depth of cut
?
Whitehill have made me a few heads....there good quality....also Dave gave me a personal tour of the factory which was fascinating.?
They made me a combi head to fit the Felder spindle which allows you to fly over the cutter so with two passes you can achieve a deep tennon.
?
Whitehill has really expanded their offering, and at less than half the cost of Rangate, are a great value IMO. ? And a lot of their profiles are unique and very attractive in the US market.
Another alternative for tenoning is a conventional dado set bored to 30mm - here¡¯s a double stack of Forrest Dado King 10¡± dado cutters on my KF700 - this needs a proper tenoning hood for sure:
I used that setup to tenon 5x5 fence rails to 3?¡± depth. ? ?This link might be useful: ???
?
?
?
I have two of the Felder rebate heads noted by David ¡ª probably because of his recommendation in the Survival Guide.? I have used them for tenons with no issues, although the will not drop below the table of my CF741 due to their diameter (220mm).? I use a
piece of ?¡± plywood as a tenoning plate to raise the stock and rebate heads.
An alternative, that appears to be less money with greater depth (99mm!) are the tenon plates from Whitehill:
?
I have two of these and you can do 74mm deep cuts. Pretty close to 3¡±
?I wanted to see if anyone knows the depth of cut available when using the Felder Adjustable Groover as a tenon cutter on the shaper? Here is the link to the exact itemhttps://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US/en-US/Sawing/Tongue-and-groove-cutters/Adjustable-Dado-Cutter-for-Saw-Unit-RB-HW-Adjustable-groover-12-0-20-0-mm.html
I have the 700 series shaper with the 230mm hood. Are there any other options for tenon cutters that will get me 3 inches or so of depth that you recommend?
Thanks
Michael
?
?
-- Brian Lamb blamb11@...? ?
|
Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
I'm with Joe love my router spindle. Quite, smoother, better cut, doesn't slow down when taking a cut. Although I got mine cause when I bought my KF700sp I didn't have any shaper cutters or really any idea how to use the shaper. Did and still do have quite a few router bits. Although slowly working on phasing out the router bits and getting the shaper cutters. One job at a time.
|
Re: Router Spindle or Router Lift
Hi James,
I did but they didn't offer any fix option.? I was willing to pay for replacement screw but they told me that part is not available.? I had this lift for about 10 years so I am guessing they no longer carry parts for this old version.
Thanks,
Jose
|
Re: Switch on slider? air hose connection space.
It¡¯s only 2 buttons one for on one for off. The saws with motor scoring I believe there is a switch on the controls by the tilt wheel that you switch on and leave or something like that, believe single or 3 phase, they run 24v on one of the rails
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On May 27, 2020, at 7:44 PM, jmkserv@... wrote:
? Is the stop button option for single phase machines with belt drive? Can't see how ith would work with 3 phase and scoring. Mark,
2017. If they added a stop button then maybe Mac's clamps might be a problem, but I would think he has a solution.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
Hi Glen, what year is your machine? I think the off button is on all the new ones in the past Year or two ? Acharya, Yes Mac's clamps will work fine, Here is how mine came out. As for the on buttons on the slider, Yes I like them however There is no off button. I am not sure why but It doesn't really matter as after the cut you are back up at the machine. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 2:33 PM Acharya Kumarnathaswami < kumar@...> wrote: I'm planning to install Mac's Airtite clamps on the KF.
Will these switches cause an issues in that regard?
With a switch for the saw and the scoring motor, is there still adequate space on the end of the slider for the air hose connections?
--
|
imran
Bill Hope
David