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Re: Dust collector piping question

dolsid
 

I believe those are Nordfab products. Their telephone number is
1-800-532-0830; they don't sell retail but will put you in touch with a
local retail outlet. They made a reducer for me-Top quality products for
top dollar. Sid Hockens

----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Shepherd" <geoff@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Dust collector piping question


Recently I saw a picture of a spiffy new ductwork system that features
built-in gasketted snap-clamp fittings. The advantages to this system:
fast
installation, self-sealing, and easy to disassemble for modifications. The
source might be Grizzly of all places. I'll post a follow-up if I see it
again.

..Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Tamarkin <tamarkin@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Dust collector piping question


Steve-Zip-screws and good quality duct tape are definitely the way to
go,
especially
when your plans change, you get a new machine, and some duct disassembly
is in order!
Fifty gazillion sheet metal men can't be wrong! -Philip



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FELDER FOR SALE!

Philip Tamarkin
 

Well, boys 'n' girls, this is what comes of the "hell, as long as I'm
going to Sacramento, I may as well stop by and look at the new machines
- won't cost me anything to look, and I might be able to con 'em out of
a T-shirt" line of thinking. Bad idea. Really bad! And expensive!
(Did get a T-shirt, though...)

Bottom line, it looks like I'll be getting a new 7-31 Pro, and I need to
sell my '88 BF 5-31, which was Paul LaPierre's previous machine before
he upgraded. It's in great condition, totally stock, totally functioning
- I've used and loved it for about six months, and if it wasn't for my
vow to have more writeoffs this year to minimize the tax bite, I'd be
keeping it and doing some upgrades. Some of the many cool specifics
about this machine:

4' cast iron sliding table - no outrigger, but available
1 1/4" and 30mm shaper spindles
Mortiser
New style Felder rip/jointer fence
4-knife quick change esta cutterhead
single phase - 3/3hp 220v motors
Biesemeyer 50" commercial fence assembly slides on/off stock dovetail
ways - you get
uninterrupted ripping capacity, and the whole fence ass'y slides
over when using the
planer. The whole fence and bracket assembly is easily removable if
the stock Felder fence
is preferred.
Vega crosscut gauge assembly has been added (easily removed) to the
stock Felder 1100 mm
guide, boosting crosscut to 62" with another piece of extrusion to
take capacity beyond 8 feet,
three crosscut stops. One crosscut stop for the original fence.
Two cast-iron extensions
Belt-drive scoring unit

I'm about 3 months out on the new machine, and would love to sell it
then, but can work out something if the buyer needs it sooner. It lives
on the Mendocino coast, but can be transported to Felder in Sacramento
or be shipped as needed. I'm asking $7000.

Please email me offlist if interested, or if other information is
needed! Thanks, Philip Tamarkin
Re: Dust collector piping question

Geoff Shepherd
 

Recently I saw a picture of a spiffy new ductwork system that features
built-in gasketted snap-clamp fittings. The advantages to this system: fast
installation, self-sealing, and easy to disassemble for modifications. The
source might be Grizzly of all places. I'll post a follow-up if I see it
again.

..Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: Philip Tamarkin <tamarkin@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Dust collector piping question


Steve-Zip-screws and good quality duct tape are definitely the way to go,
especially
when your plans change, you get a new machine, and some duct disassembly
is in order!
Fifty gazillion sheet metal men can't be wrong! -Philip
Re: Dust collector piping question

Philip Tamarkin
 

Steve-Zip-screws and good quality duct tape are definitely the way to go, especially
when your plans change, you get a new machine, and some duct disassembly is in order!
Fifty gazillion sheet metal men can't be wrong! -Philip

dolsid wrote:

Steve: I have an Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone with the 30 gauge piping.and haven't
had any problems. Oneida I believe provides design help . They and other
sources on the Internet sell fitting etc. Some of the elbows you get out of
home improvement stores are difficult to work with. Young Eric's dad gave
me good advice to assemble your long runs on the floor . Also the choice of
rivets Vs screws and caulk Vs. tape seem to be a wash so it's what ever
makes you happy. Sid
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Kusterer" <spkerer@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Dust collector piping question

At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone. I
really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the
impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of
questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then branch out
to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along the
walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the various
tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff. I know the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC). I'm willing to
use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve



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Early bird gets the worm! (drat!)

Geoff Shepherd
 

Hey all, can you believe it... in this morning's classifieds was an ad in
the "Free" section: "TEAK WOOD - salvaged from boat - in alley behind ...."
The address was not far from my house, so I drove over there to check it out
thinking it might just be little trim scraps or handrails.

Much to my surprise they were heavy boards probably 8 of them, roughly 6/4
by 5 or 6" wide and 4' to 6' long... pretty scuffed up and gritty/grimy on
the outside, but might be something worthwhile inside. Anyway, someone else
beat me there by a minute and was loading them into his truck.

With the price of teak now up there with ebony, that was quite a find... I'm
not sure if I'm happy to have seen the stuff or not! I hope the guy loading
them wasn't planning on using the stuff for firewood. I gave him a hand
loading it anyway... seemed like a nice guy.

..Geoff
Re: Dust collector piping question

dolsid
 

Steve: I have an Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone with the 30 gauge piping.and haven't
had any problems. Oneida I believe provides design help . They and other
sources on the Internet sell fitting etc. Some of the elbows you get out of
home improvement stores are difficult to work with. Young Eric's dad gave
me good advice to assemble your long runs on the floor . Also the choice of
rivets Vs screws and caulk Vs. tape seem to be a wash so it's what ever
makes you happy. Sid

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Kusterer" <spkerer@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Dust collector piping question


At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone. I
really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the
impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of
questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then branch out
to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along the
walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the various
tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff. I know the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC). I'm willing to
use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve



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Re: Picture posts

 

Dennis,

Good question, but no I can't claim the dog, I hastily posted a picture my other best project this morning to clarify that. I had intended to post a photo of my daughter when I posted the one of my son, but she happened in the room and said, "Akkk! Mom I hate that picture of me," etc etc. So she promised to provide a picture that she approved of, but this morning I thought I better put something up there to clarify that no, the dog is not the other one of my 2 best projects. She was 14 at the time of that photo, and is 18 now. But, hey, don't tempt me, I probably have as many photos of my 4 dogs as I do of my 2 kids, but I won't wear out my welcome in the photo files with too much of this non tool related stuff.

Thanks,
Natalie

----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis L. Jacob
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 12:06 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Picture posts


I have to agree with Natalie, man are those big doors. What did they
get used for? Your house? Lets see pictures of that place, please? I
liked the tall wall case as well. Man I'm going to have to improve my
workmanship before I post here, nice work. Natalie, nice work too.
You didn't make the dog did you? I can understand the boy, but not
the dog too?
Dennis

--- In felder-woodworking@..., "Natalie Johnston"
<dotcalm@o...> wrote:
> Tom,
>
> Thanks for the Kudo's!
>
>
> Steve,
>
> Those are big doors! Or, are you just short? The bookcase is
beautiful. I don't regret not having hair on my face, or burly arms,
but I'm might regret not having the brawn to handle such a project.
I'm not easily daunted by such details, so we'll see.
>
> Natalie
> From: Thomas Van Alstyne
> To: felder-woodworking@...
> Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 7:52 AM
> Subject: [felder-woodworking] Beautiful Furniture
>
>
> Kudos to Natalie for the lovely furniture...
> Keep up the good work! -TV
>
>
>
> To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@e...
>
> To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-
unsubscribe@e...
>
> Visit the group web site:
woodworking
>
>
>
>
>
>



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Re: Getting on the website

Geoff Shepherd
 

Hmm.. this happened to another of our members as well. You do appear to be
in their system, so I had it send you a reauthorization number to your
e-mail so you can set your password. Hope that helps.

Passwords are CASE sensitive. Make sure you didn't have your caps lock key
on when not intended, or vice versa. I've done that one before and it can be
frustrating.

..Geoff

----- Original Message -----
From: Raph Worrick <hotsawdust@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 5:34 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Getting on the website


Geoff-

I've tried a few times to get into the website with no luck. I registered
but it doesn't recognize my password. I've also tried to change the
password but that was taking so long I gave up. Any tips?
Re: Picture posts

Dennis L. Jacob
 

I have to agree with Natalie, man are those big doors. What did they
get used for? Your house? Lets see pictures of that place, please? I
liked the tall wall case as well. Man I'm going to have to improve my
workmanship before I post here, nice work. Natalie, nice work too.
You didn't make the dog did you? I can understand the boy, but not
the dog too?
Dennis

--- In felder-woodworking@..., "Natalie Johnston"
<dotcalm@o...> wrote:
Tom,

Thanks for the Kudo's!


Steve,

Those are big doors! Or, are you just short? The bookcase is
beautiful. I don't regret not having hair on my face, or burly arms,
but I'm might regret not having the brawn to handle such a project.
I'm not easily daunted by such details, so we'll see.

Natalie
From: Thomas Van Alstyne
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 7:52 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Beautiful Furniture


Kudos to Natalie for the lovely furniture...
Keep up the good work! -TV



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unsubscribe@e...

Visit the group web site:
woodworking
Re: Dust collector piping question

Dennis L. Jacob
 

Steve, have you looked at Penn State's cyclone collectors? American
WW just did a test of DC systems, and Penn State faired well. They
were less than the Oneida, but they have a larger cyclone not tested
by AWW. I believe it is a 2 or 2 1/2 hp unit for not much more. Plus
they have kits or make your own systems. My dad made one, and said it
was easy to put together and you can choose the size motor you want.
They can use either a bag filter, or the kits recommend a cyclinder
filter that is outside the cyclone and easy to get at and easy to
locate either inside or outside. Something to think about. Penn
States web site is: www.pennstateind.com
Wood magazine also has the kit instructions available.
Dennis
--- In felder-woodworking@..., Steve Kusterer <spkerer@m...>
wrote:
At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone.
I really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the
impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of
questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then
branch out to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along
the walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the
various tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the
more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff. I know
the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a
realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC). I'm
willing to use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering
how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage
piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve
Re: Dust collector piping question

Philip Tamarkin
 

...30 ga. working just fine, thank you - no collapsing, even with all the blast gates
closed! -Philip

Steve Kusterer wrote:

At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone. I really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then branch out to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along the walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the various tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff. I know the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC). I'm willing to use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve

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Picture posts

 

Tom,

Thanks for the Kudo's!


Steve,

Those are big doors! Or, are you just short? The bookcase is beautiful. I don't regret not having hair on my face, or burly arms, but I'm might regret not having the brawn to handle such a project. I'm not easily daunted by such details, so we'll see.

Natalie
From: Thomas Van Alstyne
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 7:52 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Beautiful Furniture


Kudos to Natalie for the lovely furniture...
Keep up the good work! -TV



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Getting on the website

Raph Worrick
 

Geoff-

I've tried a few times to get into the website with no luck. I registered but it doesn't recognize my password. I've also tried to change the password but that was taking so long I gave up. Any tips?

Thanks

Raph Worrick


From: "Geoff Shepherd" <geoff@...>
Reply-To: felder-woodworking@...
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Posting Pictures
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 11:06:46 -0700

Natalie,

Visit the group web site:

If you've never been to the web site before, you'll be prompted to create a
password for yourself.

On the left hand side of the page, click on the Files heading. This is our
shared file cabinet (it used to be called the Document Vault before they
changed the system around). You will see a list of folders for different
categories of information. You probably want to post your pictures in the
"Members Shop & Project Pictures" folder. Create your own sub-folder in the
Members folder (there will be a link at the top of the listing that does
this). Go into your new folder, and notice the link at the top of the
listing for uploading a file. From there, it is pretty much self-guiding.

There is a "Read this before you upload" instruction file you'll see when
you first go into the Files section (at the root level anyway). It contains
some good tips on uploading.

With just shy of 100 members on our group now, I hope more people visit and
make use of the Files section. It's a lot of fun to see pictures of member's
shops and projects. And, don't be shy to upload a shop picture... I nominate
myself for the most claustrophobic and cluttered shop picture, so if someone
thinks they can do better than that, they better get a picture uploaded to
prove it! ;-)

--
Geoff Shepherd

----- Original Message -----
From: Natalie Johnston <dotcalm@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Posting Pictures


It seems like I ran across a link for posting photos to the group, but I
can't find it now. How do I get there?




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________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

Re: What a showroom!

Geoff Shepherd
 

Steve and Natalie,

Thanks for posting pictures of your respective projects. Very inspiring
works. The Member's file area is turning into quite a showroom/gallery.
Let's keep it up.

..Geoff
New file

Steve Jenkins
 

I opened a file and posted a couple pics to sorta show who I am.
Steve Jenkins
Re: Shop wiring question

Scott Slater
 

I agree about the subpanel, I have a 70 amp breaker feeding the detached
garage, with a subpanel. I put in a small panel originally (6 circuits) but
had to upgrade to a 12 circuit panel. Be aware that the 220/230 circuts take
2 spots.

I have the following in my shop:

2 230 V circuts 20 amps - Bandsaw, Inca table saw, jointer/planer
1 230 V 30 amp - Drum Sander
1 230 v 40 amp - Phase Converter
3 120 v 20 amp - outlets in the shop
1 120 v 20 amp - lights and garage door opener

3 phase in 2 locations - Dust collector and future CF7-41 pro

I found that the 120 v circuts would sometimes trip especially when using
the air compressor (15 amp 120v), so only having to walk 10 feet or so to
trip the breaker is easier than going to the main panel on the side of the
house.

Most of the wiring is romex behind the walls, with the outlet flush on the
wall (like outlets in a house). If I redid the wiring, I would run EMT or
flex and run wire to the outlets. If I needed to change something it would
be much easier. I would still runt the EMT behind the wall, I prefer the
finished look. The 3 phase power is in EMT that is mounted outside on the
walls, I am not going to tear into the drywall to install that.

Scott Slater
scott@...
www.studiouw.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Norton [mailto:cnorton@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 9:48 AM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Shop wiring question


For my installation, which I am still setting up, I am going with "behind
the wall" where the conduit would be visible and conduit where it is out of
sight. I find conduit easier to run THHN wire for higher current
applications. My wife is does not want our garage to look like an
industrial shop so obvious conduit is a no-no. And no visible vacuum duct!
Gad, this is getting tough.

I would definitely go with a subpanel, unless you have about 10 times the
room in your main panel that I have. For a shop, I think a subpanel makes a
lot of sense, and the wiring is greatly simplified.

Good Luck.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kusterer <spkerer@...>
To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...>
Date: Thursday, April 27, 2000 5:56 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Shop wiring question


Felder has given me plenty of time to finish my shop prior to the arrival
of its crown jewel. I should have my CF731 Pro in late July/early August.

All along I've planned on wiring the shop with the outlets flush with the
wall surface and wiring running behind the walls - normal stuff. However,
I've recently been wondering about the pros and cons of using conduit and
running the wiring and mounting the boxes on the surface of the walls. I
see a 'pro' in being able to modify the wiring, add outlets, etc. without
having to go behind a wall. I see a 'con' as having more stuff not flush
against the wall and therefore able to get in the way of other things more
easily.

I'd appreciate any comments about this. I'm meeting with the county
electrical inspector on Friday to discuss a separate sub-panel vs. running
multiple circuits. He views sub-panels as a "last resort" (his words). I
kind of like the idea of having the breakers right there, not having
multiple long (> 50 foot) runs.

Thanks... Steve



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felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

Visit the group web site:




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Re: Dust collector piping question

Scott Slater
 

Steve,

I would contact Air Handling Systems and ask for the catalog as it has
suggestions -
www.airhand.com

There is also a great book:

Woodshop Dust Control
by Sandor Nagyszalanczy

List Price: $19.95
Our Price: $15.96
You Save: $3.99 (20%)

Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours.

Paperback (September 1996)
Taunton Pr; ISBN: 156158116X ; Dimensions (in inches): 0.51 x 10.02 x 8.07
Amazon.com Sales Rank: 15,388


If you are in a hurry contact Air Handling and ask them, they were really
helpful when I called them up.


Scott Slater
scott@...
www.studiouw.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kusterer [mailto:spkerer@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 6:03 AM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Dust collector piping question


At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone. I really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the
impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then branch out to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along the walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the various
tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff. I know the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC). I'm willing to use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve



To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...

To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

Visit the group web site:

Re: Shop wiring question

Charlie Norton
 

For my installation, which I am still setting up, I am going with "behind
the wall" where the conduit would be visible and conduit where it is out of
sight. I find conduit easier to run THHN wire for higher current
applications. My wife is does not want our garage to look like an
industrial shop so obvious conduit is a no-no. And no visible vacuum duct!
Gad, this is getting tough.

I would definitely go with a subpanel, unless you have about 10 times the
room in your main panel that I have. For a shop, I think a subpanel makes a
lot of sense, and the wiring is greatly simplified.

Good Luck.

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kusterer <spkerer@...>
To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...>
Date: Thursday, April 27, 2000 5:56 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Shop wiring question


Felder has given me plenty of time to finish my shop prior to the arrival
of its crown jewel. I should have my CF731 Pro in late July/early August.

All along I've planned on wiring the shop with the outlets flush with the
wall surface and wiring running behind the walls - normal stuff. However,
I've recently been wondering about the pros and cons of using conduit and
running the wiring and mounting the boxes on the surface of the walls. I
see a 'pro' in being able to modify the wiring, add outlets, etc. without
having to go behind a wall. I see a 'con' as having more stuff not flush
against the wall and therefore able to get in the way of other things more
easily.

I'd appreciate any comments about this. I'm meeting with the county
electrical inspector on Friday to discuss a separate sub-panel vs. running
multiple circuits. He views sub-panels as a "last resort" (his words). I
kind of like the idea of having the breakers right there, not having
multiple long (> 50 foot) runs.

Thanks... Steve



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felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

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Re: Help!

John Renzetti
 

Leo, If you post from the web site then you have to hit the send button
twice. First time the message comes up as it will be sent, then the hitting
"send" again posts the message.
I've done this a couple of times myself.
Take care,
John Renzetti

----- Original Message -----
From: Leo Lopez <leozepolusa@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 8:30 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Help!


I have written Jason a reply to his power issues three times (15
minutes to type each time) and clicked "send message", yet my message
each time does not post to the group. The first two times I did it
as
a reply to Jason's original message. The third time I tried posting
a
new message,,,made no difference. I can't keep doing this,,,any
suggestions guys? This has happened to me before, and I found out
later that group members who have messages automatically forwarded to
their email address were getting my posting nevertheless.

Thanks,

Leo



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Beautiful Furniture

Thomas Van Alstyne
 

Kudos to Natalie for the lovely furniture...
Keep up the good work! -TV
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