felderownersgroup@groups.io

Re: Picture posts

Dennis,

Good question, but no I can't claim the dog, I hastily posted a picture my other best project this morning to clarify that.  I had intended to post a photo of my daughter when I posted the one of my son, but she happened in the room and said, "Akkk!  Mom I hate that picture of me," etc etc.  So she promised to provide a picture that she approved of, but this morning I thought I better put something up there to clarify that no, the dog is not the other one of my 2 best projects.  She was 14 at the time of that photo, and is 18 now.  But, hey, don't tempt me, I probably have as many photos of my 4 dogs as I do of my 2 kids, but I won't wear out my welcome in the photo files with too much of this non tool related stuff.  

Thanks,
Natalie

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dennis L. Jacob 
  To: felder-woodworking@... 
  Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 12:06 AM
  Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Picture posts

  I have to agree with Natalie, man are those big doors. What did they 
  get used for? Your house? Lets see pictures of that place, please? I 
  liked the tall wall case as well. Man I'm going to have to improve my 
  workmanship before I post here, nice work. Natalie, nice work too. 
  You didn't make the dog did you? I can understand the boy, but not 
  the dog too? 
  Dennis

  --- In felder-woodworking@..., "Natalie Johnston" 
  <dotcalm@o...> wrote:
  > Tom,
  > 
  > Thanks for the Kudo's!
  > 
  > 
  > Steve,
  > 
  > Those are big doors!  Or, are you just short?  The bookcase is 
  beautiful.  I don't regret not having hair on my face, or burly arms, 
  but I'm might regret not having the brawn to handle such a project.  
  I'm not easily daunted by such details, so we'll see.
  > 
  > Natalie
  >   From: Thomas Van Alstyne 
  >   To: felder-woodworking@... 
  >   Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 7:52 AM
  >   Subject: [felder-woodworking] Beautiful Furniture
  > 
  > 
  >   Kudos to Natalie for the lovely furniture...
  >   Keep up the good work! -TV
  > 
  > 
  > 
  >   To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@e...
  > 
  >   To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-
  unsubscribe@e...
  > 
  >   Visit the group web site: 
  woodworking
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 

  To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@...

  To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

  Visit the group web site: 

Re: Getting on the website

Geoff Shepherd

#428

Hmm.. this happened to another of our members as well. You do appear to be
in their system, so I had it send you a reauthorization number to your
e-mail so you can set your password. Hope that helps.

Passwords are CASE sensitive. Make sure you didn't have your caps lock key
on when not intended, or vice versa. I've done that one before and it can be
frustrating.

..Geoff

Show quoted text

----- Original Message -----
From: Raph Worrick <hotsawdust@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 5:34 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Getting on the website

Geoff-

I've tried a few times to get into the website with no luck.  I registered
but it doesn't recognize my password.  I've also tried to change the
password but that was taking so long I gave up.  Any tips?

Re: Picture posts

Dennis L. Jacob

#427

I have to agree with Natalie, man are those big doors. What did they 
get used for? Your house? Lets see pictures of that place, please? I 
liked the tall wall case as well. Man I'm going to have to improve my 
workmanship before I post here, nice work. Natalie, nice work too. 
You didn't make the dog did you? I can understand the boy, but not 
the dog too? 
Dennis

--- In felder-woodworking@..., "Natalie Johnston" 
<dotcalm@o...> wrote:
Tom,

Thanks for the Kudo's!


Steve,

Those are big doors!  Or, are you just short?  The bookcase is beautiful.  I don't regret not having hair on my face, or burly arms, 
but I'm might regret not having the brawn to handle such a project.  
I'm not easily daunted by such details, so we'll see.

Natalie
  From: Thomas Van Alstyne 
  To: felder-woodworking@... 
  Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 7:52 AM
  Subject: [felder-woodworking] Beautiful Furniture


  Kudos to Natalie for the lovely furniture...
  Keep up the good work! -TV



  To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@e...

  To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@e...

  Visit the group web site: woodworking

Re: Dust collector piping question

Dennis L. Jacob

#426

Steve, have you looked at Penn State's cyclone collectors? American 
WW just did a test of DC systems, and Penn State faired well. They 
were less than the Oneida, but they have a larger cyclone not tested 
by AWW. I believe it is a 2 or 2 1/2 hp unit for not much more. Plus 
they have kits or make your own systems. My dad made one, and said it 
was easy to put together and you can choose the size motor you want. 
They can use either a bag filter, or the kits recommend a cyclinder 
filter that is outside the cyclone and easy to get at and easy to 
locate either inside or outside. Something to think about. Penn 
States web site is: www.pennstateind.com
 Wood magazine also has the kit instructions available.
Dennis
--- In felder-woodworking@..., Steve Kusterer <spkerer@m...> 
wrote:
At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone.  I really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then branch out to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along the walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the various tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff.  I know the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC).  I'm willing to use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve

Re: Dust collector piping question

Philip Tamarkin

#425

...30 ga. working just fine, thank you - no collapsing, even with all the blast gates
closed! -Philip

Steve Kusterer wrote:

Show quoted text

At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone.  I really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then branch out to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along the walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the various tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff.  I know the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC).  I'm willing to use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve

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Picture posts

#424

Tom,

Thanks for the Kudo's!

Steve,

Those are big doors!  Or, are you just short?  The bookcase is beautiful.  I don't regret not having hair on my face, or burly arms, but I'm might regret not having the brawn to handle such a project.  I'm not easily daunted by such details, so we'll see.

Natalie
  From: Thomas Van Alstyne 
  To: felder-woodworking@... 
  Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 7:52 AM
  Subject: [felder-woodworking] Beautiful Furniture

  Kudos to Natalie for the lovely furniture...
  Keep up the good work! -TV

  To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@...

  To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

  Visit the group web site:

Getting on the website

Raph Worrick

#423

Geoff-

I've tried a few times to get into the website with no luck.  I registered but it doesn't recognize my password.  I've also tried to change the password but that was taking so long I gave up.  Any tips?

Thanks

Raph Worrick


From: "Geoff Shepherd" <geoff@...>
Reply-To: felder-woodworking@...
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Posting Pictures
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 11:06:46 -0700

Natalie,

Visit the group web site: 

If you've never been to the web site before, you'll be prompted to create a
password for yourself.

On the left hand side of the page, click on the Files heading. This is our
shared file cabinet (it used to be called the Document Vault before they
changed the system around). You will see a list of folders for different
categories of information. You probably want to post your pictures in the
"Members Shop & Project Pictures" folder. Create your own sub-folder in the
Members folder (there will be a link at the top of the listing that does
this). Go into your new folder, and notice the link at the top of the
listing for uploading a file. From there, it is pretty much self-guiding.

There is a "Read this before you upload" instruction file you'll see when
you first go into the Files section (at the root level anyway). It contains
some good tips on uploading.

With just shy of 100 members on our group now, I hope more people visit and
make use of the Files section. It's a lot of fun to see pictures of member's
shops and projects. And, don't be shy to upload a shop picture... I nominate
myself for the most claustrophobic and cluttered shop picture, so if someone
thinks they can do better than that, they better get a picture uploaded to
prove it! ;-)

--
Geoff Shepherd

----- Original Message -----
From: Natalie Johnston <dotcalm@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 8:32 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Posting Pictures


It seems like I ran across a link for posting photos to the group, but Ican't find it now.  How do I get there?




To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@...

To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

Visit the group web site: 

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at 

Re: What a showroom!

Geoff Shepherd

#422

Steve and Natalie,

Thanks for posting pictures of your respective projects. Very inspiring
works. The Member's file area is turning into quite a showroom/gallery.
Let's keep it up.

..Geoff

New file

Steve Jenkins

#421

I opened a file and posted a couple pics to sorta show who I am. 
Steve Jenkins

Re: Shop wiring question

Scott Slater

#420

I agree about the subpanel, I have a 70 amp breaker feeding the detached
garage, with a subpanel. I put in a small panel originally (6 circuits) but
had to upgrade to a 12 circuit panel. Be aware that the 220/230 circuts take
2 spots.

I have the following in my shop:

2 230 V circuts 20 amps - Bandsaw, Inca table saw, jointer/planer
1 230 V 30 amp - Drum Sander
1 230 v 40 amp - Phase Converter
3 120 v 20 amp - outlets in the shop
1 120 v 20 amp - lights and garage door opener

3 phase in 2 locations - Dust collector and future CF7-41 pro

I found that the 120 v circuts would sometimes trip especially when using
the air compressor (15 amp 120v), so only having to walk 10 feet or so to
trip the breaker is easier than going to the main panel on the side of the
house.

Most of the wiring is romex behind the walls, with the outlet flush on the
wall (like outlets in a house). If I redid the wiring, I would run EMT or
flex and run wire to the outlets. If I needed to change something it would
be much easier. I would still runt the EMT behind the wall, I prefer the
finished look. The 3 phase power is in EMT that is mounted outside on the
walls, I am not going to tear into the drywall to install that.

Scott Slater
scott@...
www.studiouw.com

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie Norton [mailto:cnorton@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 9:48 AM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Shop wiring question

For my installation, which I am still setting up, I am going with "behind
the wall" where the conduit would be visible and conduit where it is out of
sight.  I find conduit easier to run THHN wire for higher current
applications.  My wife is does not want our garage to look like an
industrial shop so obvious conduit is a no-no.  And no visible vacuum duct!
Gad, this is getting tough.

I would definitely go with a subpanel, unless you have about 10 times the
room in your main panel that I have.  For a shop, I think a subpanel makes a
lot of sense, and the wiring is greatly simplified.

Good Luck.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kusterer <spkerer@...>
To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...>
Date: Thursday, April 27, 2000 5:56 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Shop wiring question

Felder has given me plenty of time to finish my shop prior to the arrival
of its crown jewel.  I should have my CF731 Pro in late July/early August.

All along I've planned on wiring the shop with the outlets flush with the
wall surface and wiring running behind the walls - normal stuff.  However,
I've recently been wondering about the pros and cons of using conduit and
running the wiring and mounting the boxes on the surface of the walls.  I
see a 'pro' in being able to modify the wiring, add outlets, etc. without
having to go behind a wall.  I see a 'con' as having more stuff not flush
against the wall and therefore able to get in the way of other things more
easily.

I'd appreciate any comments about this.  I'm meeting with the county
electrical inspector on Friday to discuss a separate sub-panel vs. running
multiple circuits.  He views sub-panels as a "last resort" (his words).  I
kind of like the idea of having the breakers right there, not having
multiple long (> 50 foot)  runs.

Thanks... Steve

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felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

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Re: Dust collector piping question

Scott Slater

#419

Steve,

I would contact Air Handling Systems and ask for the catalog as it has
suggestions -
www.airhand.com

There is also a great book:

Woodshop Dust Control
by Sandor Nagyszalanczy

List Price: $19.95
Our Price: $15.96
You Save: $3.99 (20%)

Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours.

Paperback (September 1996)
Taunton Pr; ISBN: 156158116X ; Dimensions (in inches): 0.51 x 10.02 x 8.07
Amazon.com Sales Rank: 15,388


If you are in a hurry contact Air Handling and ask them, they were really
helpful when I called them up.


Scott Slater
scott@...
www.studiouw.com

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kusterer [mailto:spkerer@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 6:03 AM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Dust collector piping question

At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone.  I really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the
impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then branch out to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along the walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the various
tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff.  I know the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC).  I'm willing to use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve

To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@...

To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

Visit the group web site: 

Re: Shop wiring question

Charlie Norton

#418

For my installation, which I am still setting up, I am going with "behind
the wall" where the conduit would be visible and conduit where it is out of
sight.  I find conduit easier to run THHN wire for higher current
applications.  My wife is does not want our garage to look like an
industrial shop so obvious conduit is a no-no.  And no visible vacuum duct!
Gad, this is getting tough.

I would definitely go with a subpanel, unless you have about 10 times the
room in your main panel that I have.  For a shop, I think a subpanel makes a
lot of sense, and the wiring is greatly simplified.

Good Luck.

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kusterer <spkerer@...>
To: felder-woodworking@... <felder-woodworking@...>
Date: Thursday, April 27, 2000 5:56 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Shop wiring question

Felder has given me plenty of time to finish my shop prior to the arrival
of its crown jewel.  I should have my CF731 Pro in late July/early August.

All along I've planned on wiring the shop with the outlets flush with the
wall surface and wiring running behind the walls - normal stuff.  However,
I've recently been wondering about the pros and cons of using conduit and
running the wiring and mounting the boxes on the surface of the walls.  I
see a 'pro' in being able to modify the wiring, add outlets, etc. without
having to go behind a wall.  I see a 'con' as having more stuff not flush
against the wall and therefore able to get in the way of other things more
easily.

I'd appreciate any comments about this.  I'm meeting with the county
electrical inspector on Friday to discuss a separate sub-panel vs. running
multiple circuits.  He views sub-panels as a "last resort" (his words).  I
kind of like the idea of having the breakers right there, not having
multiple long (> 50 foot)  runs.

Thanks... Steve

To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@...

To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

Visit the group web site: 

Re: Help!

John Renzetti

#417

Leo,   If you post from the web site then you have to hit the send button
twice. First time the message comes up as it will be sent, then the hitting
"send" again posts the message.
I've done this a couple of times myself.
Take care,
John Renzetti

Show quoted text

----- Original Message -----
From: Leo Lopez <leozepolusa@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 8:30 AM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Help!

I have written Jason a reply to his power issues three times (15
minutes to type each time) and clicked "send message", yet my message
each time does not post to the group.  The first two times I did it
as
a reply to Jason's original message.  The third time I tried posting
a
new message,,,made no difference. I can't keep doing this,,,any
suggestions guys? This has happened to me before, and I found out
later that group members who have messages automatically forwarded to
their email address were getting my posting nevertheless.

Thanks,

Leo

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Beautiful Furniture

Thomas Van Alstyne

#416

Kudos to Natalie for the lovely furniture...
Keep up the good work! -TV

Re: Posting Pictures

#415

Thanks Scott,
I did post my pictures yesterday, thanks for the help, and by the way, you need to mess things up a bit in your shop there.  If you need some help with this concept, check out Geoff's shop photos.  I'm sure I can top his shop, I'll just have to remember to take a picture at the right moment.  I tend to start the day by cleaning up and organizing things, but end up right back where I started by the end of the day. 
Natalie

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Scott Slater 
  To: felder-woodworking@... 
  Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2000 12:04 AM
  Subject: RE: [felder-woodworking] Posting Pictures

  Hi Natalie,

  >From the main page, click on Files (left side). A number of folders will
  appear on the right side, click on the folder that you want to upload files
  to.

  If the you want to post a photo of work or your shop click on:

  Member Shop and Project Pictures  - create a folder inside of this folder
  with your name
  When you are inside of this folder you will see some more folders with
  members names. Near the top right there is a link "Add Folder" Click this
  and make a new folder with your name. When the folder appears, in the list
  (you may have to refresh the screen) click on your folder.

  You will then have the option to add a file, click the "Add File" button on
  the right side, another screen will come up, allowing you to browse your
  hard drive for the file you want to upload. Click upload file after you see
  the name is correct.

  There is a read me on the top level of the files folder. We suggest that you
  use JPEG format for photos, and GIF for drawings. Quality should be set to
  medium, and the file should be less than 100 k.

  Scott

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Natalie Johnston [mailto:dotcalm@...]
  Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 8:33 AM
  To: felder-woodworking@...
  Subject: [felder-woodworking] Posting Pictures

  It seems like I ran across a link for posting photos to the group, but I
  can't find it now.  How do I get there?

  Thanks,
  Natalie

  To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@...

  To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
  felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

  Visit the group web site: 

  To Post a message, send it to:   felder-woodworking@...

  To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

  Visit the group web site:

Dust collector piping question

Steve Kusterer

#414

At this point, I think I've settled on the Oneida 1.5 HP cyclone.  I really
don't want everything the dust collector collects to go through the impeller.

In planning on running the piping for this DC, I have a couple of questions.

1. is it better to run the piping along the ceiling, and then branch out to
the sides, drops, etc. as necessary, or is it better to run along the walls
- or does it really not make much difference and I should just use
whichever approach looks most convenient with the layout of the various tools?

2. with the 1.5 HP Oneida, is it really necessary to go with the more
expensive, heavier guage piping instead of 30 guage stuff.  I know the 30
guage can cause problem by collapsing, but is that at all a realistic risk
with the 1.5 HP Oneida (as opposed to some monster DC).  I'm willing to use
the heavier stuff if there is a real concern - but I'm wondering how much
of the reading I've been doing about the necessity of heavier guage piping
is actually based on much larger dust collectors.

Thanks... Steve

Shop wiring question

Steve Kusterer

#413

Felder has given me plenty of time to finish my shop prior to the arrival
of its crown jewel.  I should have my CF731 Pro in late July/early August.

All along I've planned on wiring the shop with the outlets flush with the
wall surface and wiring running behind the walls - normal stuff.  However,
I've recently been wondering about the pros and cons of using conduit and
running the wiring and mounting the boxes on the surface of the walls.  I
see a 'pro' in being able to modify the wiring, add outlets, etc. without
having to go behind a wall.  I see a 'con' as having more stuff not flush
against the wall and therefore able to get in the way of other things more
easily.

I'd appreciate any comments about this.  I'm meeting with the county
electrical inspector on Friday to discuss a separate sub-panel vs. running
multiple circuits.  He views sub-panels as a "last resort" (his words).  I
kind of like the idea of having the breakers right there, not having
multiple long (> 50 foot)  runs.

Thanks... Steve

Help!

Leo Lopez

#412

I have written Jason a reply to his power issues three times (15 
minutes to type each time) and clicked "send message", yet my message 
each time does not post to the group.  The first two times I did it
as 
a reply to Jason's original message.  The third time I tried posting
a 
new message,,,made no difference. I can't keep doing this,,,any 
suggestions guys? This has happened to me before, and I found out 
later that group members who have messages automatically forwarded to 
their email address were getting my posting nevertheless.

Thanks,

Leo

Re: My 3 Phase Dilema....the plot thickens!

Scott Slater

#411

Hi,

I would suggest that you consider 3 phase with a rotary phase converter. The
cost of the converter is about $1200 (with the fused disconnect supplied by
Kay, or you build your own - very easy to do and cheaper to DIY). I have
seen less expensive rotary converters available, about 700$ for a 5 hp unit,
email me for more info.

I spoke to Wolfgang about the 3 phase variable speed drive, he quoted me
about $2500 for a 3 phase unit. Needless to say, I will stick with the fixed
speed on the saw and jointer and the 3 speeds of the shaper. From what I
understand the variable speed is important if you work with different
materials (other than wood) such as metal or plastics. I do not intend to
work with anything other than wood. It would be nice to have the variable
speed on the shaper, but Wolfgang said that the unit cannot be fitted to the
shaper only, but will control all functions. The other issue with the
variable speed drive is that you cannot use the scoring unit with the
separate 1 hp motor (according to Wolfgang).

Regarding the wiring and panel you have installed. You will be able to use
the breakers for the 3 phase, but they are not necessary. I spoke to an
engineer at Kay Industries, and he stated that the fused disconnect provides
the necessary protection. The machine will have switches that are protected
against overload. It would have been nice to have a separate panel for 3
phase distribution, but as you know the breakers and panels are very
expensive.

I have setup my shop with the following:

40 amp breaker feeding 220 v to the converter. The converter uses 30 amps
but it will trip a 30 amp standard breaker, slow blow fuses will not trip -
Kay suggested that I use a 40 amp from the sub panel.

8 gauge wire from the 40 amp breaker to the disconnect/input of the phase
converter.

3 phase (10 gauge) going to a distribution block

10 gauge wire going to the dust collector
10 gauge wire going to the machine (not yet in use as the machine is
somewhere between Germany and USA)
I still have 2 more positions free on the distribution block for future 3
phase equipment.


I have posted photos of the phase converter in the Technical info folder.

Scott

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Gant [mailto:rjasong@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 7:29 PM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] My 3 Phase Dilema....the plot thickens!

Hello again FOG,

Thanks for all the input so far on my 3 phase mystery. Please continue your
input, as it may have to do more with my motor option than my wiring. I'll
explain shortly.

First - Rick, thanks for the concern and warnings. This to me is a sign of a
true friend. No offense taken here and PLEASE send them my way when it even
remotely seems I'm venturing upon danger. Again thanks!

Today's findings:

After closer inspection and re-metering everything I noticed leg A feeding
into the Air Conditioner can also. This pretty much confirms my fears- leg A
and either one of the others must supply the 240V to the air conditioner,
and legs B and C have to be the same phase(as Charlie and Wolfgang
suggested). Here's what's strange. The air conditioner unit before this one
was 3 phase(thus the 3 wires feeding to the AC unit can). The power to the
house(3 hots and a neutral) used to be 3 phase. My 3 hots feed from  3
different wires at the pole. But last year(about 15 months ago) we had a bad
ice storm. Everyone on this city block lost power(downed transformer I
guess?) for about a week. Perhaps at this time they eliminated the 3 phase
and jumpered those 2 legs as one??? Had they jumpered legs A and one of the
others to the same phase, I'd have had problems with the air conditioner.
I'm just guessing this is what has happened, weird, hum??? This appears to
be very bad news for me, as I've just dumped about the value of an AF22LN
dust collector into "3 phase" breakers/service panel/wire and outlets into
my shop. I'm bummed, but I'll check with our power provider, perhaps I can
still get it returned here.

But assuming I'm stuck with single phase, how would you folks suggest I
configure my KF700pro. Should I go ahead and order 3 phase and perhaps
hardwire a rotory coverter into my shop(maybe I could still utilize those
breakers?). Or do I take advantage of the variable frequency/variable speed
conversion option from Felder? Is this option avilable with motors larger
than 4hp, like 5.5hp as I want?

thanks alot,

Jason Gant

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Re: Posting Pictures

Scott Slater

#410

Hi Natalie,

From the main page, click on Files (left side). A number of folders will
appear on the right side, click on the folder that you want to upload files
to.

If the you want to post a photo of work or your shop click on:

Member Shop and Project Pictures  - create a folder inside of this folder
with your name
When you are inside of this folder you will see some more folders with
members names. Near the top right there is a link "Add Folder" Click this
and make a new folder with your name. When the folder appears, in the list
(you may have to refresh the screen) click on your folder.

You will then have the option to add a file, click the "Add File" button on
the right side, another screen will come up, allowing you to browse your
hard drive for the file you want to upload. Click upload file after you see
the name is correct.

There is a read me on the top level of the files folder. We suggest that you
use JPEG format for photos, and GIF for drawings. Quality should be set to
medium, and the file should be less than 100 k.

Scott

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: Natalie Johnston [mailto:dotcalm@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2000 8:33 AM
To: felder-woodworking@...
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Posting Pictures

It seems like I ran across a link for posting photos to the group, but I
can't find it now.  How do I get there?

Thanks,
Natalie

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