Felder sells a couple F coupling kits that work just fine and they can allow for taper draft on the edge of the table and they offer at least half a dozen different extension tables that are also independently adjustable so you can set them so they are flush with a table or a hair under.
On May 10, 2025, at 9:06?PM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
?
I find it very unfortunate that with the Aigner, there is no adjustability. ?If that rail is just slightly too high, and an outfeed table is mounted, the wood will catch on the proud outfeed table. ?I remember once drilling larger diameter holes in a rail to give a little wiggle room for fine adjustment.
?
On a subsequent mount, I checked, and double checked and triple checked the locations to drill the holes... and I also got lucky and it worked out well.
I find it very unfortunate that with the Aigner, there is no adjustability. ?If that rail is just slightly too high, and an outfeed table is mounted, the wood will catch on the proud outfeed table. ?I remember once drilling larger diameter holes in a rail to give a little wiggle room for fine adjustment.
?
On a subsequent mount, I checked, and double checked and triple checked the locations to drill the holes... and I also got lucky and it worked out well.
On May 10, 2025, at 7:26?PM, Marty Gildea via groups.io <madigabr@...> wrote:
?
Thanks Imran but I think these are the "Euro Block Knives" that Brent referred to in a private post:? "The pin spacing is the same, but little euro block knives don't project far enough out from the body of the cutter to be usable in the 125x55 blocks.".? I trust he is correct since I decided on the Whitehill cutter block based on one of his videos.?
-Marty?
Re: contacting you to post Felder & other accessories items for sale
Thanks Imran but I think these are the "Euro Block Knives" that Brent referred to in a private post:? "The pin spacing is the same, but little euro block knives don't project far enough out from the body of the cutter to be usable in the 125x55 blocks.".? I trust he is correct since I decided on the Whitehill cutter block based on one of his videos.?
I got a pair from the above site because I was in a hurry and ordered limiters from Felder. I was able to use these with limiters from the rebate set for the job. I have Felder safety cutterhead which is 100 mm dia. I am told that Felder 50 mm head can use 40 mm knives.
Bottom line, I wanted to try them and did a project. Obviously, this produces a joint that will withstand substantially higher shear forces but I have so far not have an application requiring it. I guess it can ease assembly.
Just sharing my experience. Hope you find it helpful.
On May 10, 2025, at 5:57?PM, Marty Gildea via groups.io <madigabr@...> wrote:
?
Thank you Joe, I appreciate the offer but I would still need the limiters.? I think I'm going to bite the bullet and pay Whitehill the shipping cost.??
On Sat, May 10, 2025 at 3:55?PM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote:
I have the 8.75 X 9.75 glue joint Whitehill knives I would sell for 1/2 price of new. Plus postage.
Don¡¯t have the limiters though if you need those.
Thank you Joe, I appreciate the offer but I would still need the limiters.? I think I'm going to bite the bullet and pay Whitehill the shipping cost.??
Not sure what your Aigner rail looks like and what you intend to use it for especially on the bandsaw as besides extension tables, Aigner pressure module is an option as well.
First if your Aigner bracket is ~1 3/16¡± like mine (pic below), it will work with Aigner PM but not Felder extension tables. Felder brackets are wider, ~1 9/16¡± (see 2nd picture), and they allow the clamping bar below the ext. table to work.
Felder Brackets on Dual51
Felder extension tables will accommodate for less than perpendicular (to table surface) hole as they have height and tilt adjustments.
FYI, I mounted the Aigner bar at a height so that the horizontal sliding bar is above the table surface (see pic below). This is too high for the extension table. I am going to do something that will allow me to use both but I have not done that yet. It is possible to add set screws (bore & tap) to the Aigner PM bracket so that the bracket attached to the machine can be lower and perhaps will work with both. As a side note: Aigner PM will mount to Felder coupling brackets.
If you really want to go perpendicular a simple 90 deg jig composed of flat wood large enough to lay on machine surface with a 90 deg cleat mounted below should work. Cleat should drop down as much as needed and should be thick enough to act like a drill guide.
On May 10, 2025, at 1:30?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
?
Thanks everyone for the great advice.
?
I am drilling to the side of the machine to mount a F style bar. It is through hole (the cast has a thickness of ~ 1/2¡± thick). I don¡¯t need to tap the hole, it secures to the cast iron with an hex nut.
?
i also have a drill press, but it isn¡¯t possible to bring the machine to the DP :)
Not sure what your Aigner rail looks like and what you intend to use it for especially on the bandsaw as besides extension tables, Aigner pressure module is an option as well.
First if your Aigner bracket is ~1 3/16¡± like mine (pic below), it will work with Aigner PM but not Felder extension tables. Felder brackets are wider, ~1 9/16¡± (see 2nd picture), and they allow the clamping bar below the ext. table to work.
Felder Brackets on Dual51
Felder extension tables will accommodate for less than perpendicular (to table surface) hole as they have height and tilt adjustments.
FYI, I mounted the Aigner bar at a height so that the horizontal sliding bar is above the table surface (see pic below). This is too high for the extension table. I am going to do something that will allow me to use both but I have not done that yet. It is possible to add set screws (bore & tap) to the Aigner PM bracket so that the bracket attached to the machine can be lower and perhaps will work with both. As a side note: Aigner PM will mount to Felder coupling brackets.
If you really want to go perpendicular a simple 90 deg jig composed of flat wood large enough to lay on machine surface with a 90 deg cleat mounted below should work. Cleat should drop down as much as needed and should be thick enough to act like a drill guide.
On May 10, 2025, at 1:30?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
?
Thanks everyone for the great advice.
?
I am drilling to the side of the machine to mount a F style bar. It is through hole (the cast has a thickness of ~ 1/2¡± thick). I don¡¯t need to tap the hole, it secures to the cast iron with an hex nut.
?
i also have a drill press, but it isn¡¯t possible to bring the machine to the DP :)
Not sure what your Aigner rail looks like and what you intend to use it for especially on the bandsaw as besides extension tables, Aigner pressure module is an option as well.
First if your Aigner bracket is ~1 3/16¡± like mine (pic below), it will work with Aigner PM but not Felder extension tables. Felder brackets are wider, ~1 9/16¡± (see 2nd picture), and they allow the clamping bar below the ext. table to work.
Felder Brackets on Dual51
Felder extension tables will accommodate for less than perpendicular (to table surface) hole as they have height and tilt adjustments.
FYI, I mounted the Aigner bar at a height so that the horizontal sliding bar is above the table surface (see pic below). This is too high for the extension table. I am going to do something that will allow me to use both but I have not done that yet. It is possible to add set screws (bore & tap) to the Aigner PM bracket so that the bracket attached to the machine can be lower and perhaps will work with both. As a side note: Aigner PM will mount to Felder coupling brackets.
If you really want to go perpendicular a simple 90 deg jig composed of flat wood large enough to lay on machine surface with a 90 deg cleat mounted below should work. Cleat should drop down as much as needed and should be thick enough to act like a drill guide.
On May 10, 2025, at 1:30?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
?
Thanks everyone for the great advice.
?
I am drilling to the side of the machine to mount a F style bar. It is through hole (the cast has a thickness of ~ 1/2¡± thick). I don¡¯t need to tap the hole, it secures to the cast iron with an hex nut.
?
i also have a drill press, but it isn¡¯t possible to bring the machine to the DP :)
Not sure what your Aigner rail looks like and what you intend to use it for especially on the bandsaw as besides extension tables, Aigner pressure module is an option as well.
First if your Aigner bracket is ~1 3/16¡± like mine (pic below), it will work with Aigner PM but not Felder extension tables. Felder brackets are wider, ~1 9/16¡± (see 2nd picture), and they allow the clamping bar below the ext. table to work.
Felder Brackets on Dual51
Felder extension tables will accommodate for less than perpendicular (to table surface) hole as they have height and tilt adjustments.
FYI, I mounted the Aigner bar at a height so that the horizontal sliding bar is above the table surface (see pic below). This is too high for the extension table. I am going to do something that will allow me to use both but I have not done that yet. It is possible to add set screws (bore & tap) to the Aigner PM bracket so that the bracket attached to the machine can be lower and perhaps will work with both. As a side note: Aigner PM will mount to Felder coupling brackets.
If you really want to go perpendicular a simple 90 deg jig composed of flat wood large enough to lay on machine surface with a 90 deg cleat mounted below should work. Cleat should drop down as much as needed and should be thick enough to act like a drill guide.
On May 10, 2025, at 1:30?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
?
Thanks everyone for the great advice.
?
I am drilling to the side of the machine to mount a F style bar. It is through hole (the cast has a thickness of ~ 1/2¡± thick). I don¡¯t need to tap the hole, it secures to the cast iron with an hex nut.
?
i also have a drill press, but it isn¡¯t possible to bring the machine to the DP :)
Use your drill press to make a drill guide. ?A simple piece of 2x4 with a hole drilled into it the same size diameter as the hole you want in the cast iron table edge. ?Then clamp that block to the cast iron with the hole over the desired location. ?The hole in the block will constrain the bit and will ensure the drilling operation is perpendicular to the face of the cast iron. ? No need for a mag-drill.?
On May 10, 2025, at 12:30?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
?
Thanks everyone for the great advice.
?
I am drilling to the side of the machine to mount a F style bar. It is through hole (the cast has a thickness of ~ 1/2¡± thick). I don¡¯t need to tap the hole, it secures to the cast iron with an hex nut.
?
i also have a drill press, but it isn¡¯t possible to bring the machine to the DP :)
On May 10, 2025, at 12:30?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
?
Thanks everyone for the great advice.
?
I am drilling to the side of the machine to mount a F style bar. It is through hole (the cast has a thickness of ~ 1/2¡± thick). I don¡¯t need to tap the hole, it secures to the cast iron with an hex nut.
?
i also have a drill press, but it isn¡¯t possible to bring the machine to the DP :)
On Sat, 10 May 2025 at 14:32, Brent via <dovetailtimber=[email protected]> wrote:
The pin spacing is the same, but little euro block knives don't project far enough out from the body of the cutter to be usable in the 125x55 blocks.
?
B
--
Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
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I am drilling to the side of the machine to mount a F style bar. It is through hole (the cast has a thickness of ~ 1/2¡± thick). I don¡¯t need to tap the hole, it secures to the cast iron with an hex nut.
?
i also have a drill press, but it isn¡¯t possible to bring the machine to the DP :)
When I try to locate holes, exactly I use a stubby drill of the exact same size as the hole and than a hovers drill not the exact same size is stubby drill to position and drill.
Top cast-iron dry yep used to do that and still do but I also found that using copper Loctite. for most all other drilling aluminum stainless steel steel use saflower oil if I can eat it, I use it oil has great properties for machining.?
On May 10, 2025, at 11:43?AM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
?
This is true, cast iron needs no lubrication. Just go slow, it doesn't like speed.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, May 10, 2025 at 09:39:11 AM MST, Bryce Comer <bryce@...> wrote:
Hi Netanel,
If at all possible, i would clamp the rail to the edge of the table in the position you want it and use the exact size drill bit that matches the hole size in the rail to mark the holes. From there, get rid of the rail and clamps and as others have said, start with a pilot hole. Something like a 3/16" bit would be a good size to start with since it won't flex too much. From there, i'd just go straight to a 9mm if that's the size you need. My bestest buddy growing up was a pattern maker, and he always said to machine cast iron dry. He said the cast iron is self lubricating (or something to that affect. It was after all probably at least 40 years ago when he told me that. :)) I took his advice, and unless i'm trying to tap a hole in an akward spot, never use a cutting fluid.?
Take your time with setting up an marking the holes, as that's where you need to be exact, the actual drilling and tapping will be the easy part. :)
This is true, cast iron needs no lubrication. Just go slow, it doesn't like speed.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, May 10, 2025 at 09:39:11 AM MST, Bryce Comer <bryce@...> wrote:
Hi Netanel,
If at all possible, i would clamp the rail to the edge of the table in the position you want it and use the exact size drill bit that matches the hole size in the rail to mark the holes. From there, get rid of the rail and clamps and as others have said, start with a pilot hole. Something like a 3/16" bit would be a good size to start with since it won't flex too much. From there, i'd just go straight to a 9mm if that's the size you need. My bestest buddy growing up was a pattern maker, and he always said to machine cast iron dry. He said the cast iron is self lubricating (or something to that affect. It was after all probably at least 40 years ago when he told me that. :)) I took his advice, and unless i'm trying to tap a hole in an akward spot, never use a cutting fluid.?
Take your time with setting up an marking the holes, as that's where you need to be exact, the actual drilling and tapping will be the easy part. :)
If at all possible, i would clamp the rail to the edge of the table in the position you want it and use the exact size drill bit that matches the hole size in the rail to mark the holes. From there, get rid of the rail and clamps and as others have said, start with a pilot hole. Something like a 3/16" bit would be a good size to start with since it won't flex too much. From there, i'd just go straight to a 9mm if that's the size you need. My bestest buddy growing up was a pattern maker, and he always said to machine cast iron dry. He said the cast iron is self lubricating (or something to that affect. It was after all probably at least 40 years ago when he told me that. :)) I took his advice, and unless i'm trying to tap a hole in an akward spot, never use a cutting fluid.?
Take your time with setting up an marking the holes, as that's where you need to be exact, the actual drilling and tapping will be the easy part. :)
Here is recent F coupling I mentioned meter long. Just hand drill and part clamped precisely to the edge as my jig . To start F coupling hole is tap size hole for 8/2.5
After drilling whent back ands opened to 8 mm all made of parts laying around no ra ha spent
On May 10, 2025, at 9:46?AM, PK via groups.io <pk@...> wrote:
?
Netanel,
?
I just installed the Aigner brackets onto the ends of my FS7 J/P jointer beds.? It was pretty easy with just a portable drill.? There are jigs to keep the drill perpendicular to the surface.? I feel, like Mac, that it may be hard to use a mag drill on a 2" lip of the top of the band saw table.? Make sure you look under to miss any webbing underneath the edge of the table.
?
Happy drilling!? I plan on installing two on my band saw today.