As I had one response from Felder’s tech support and a different response from the sales rep, I asked Mr. Dingus for clarification. His response is below. Note that my question for him was in regards to a specific machine (Format-4 Kappa 450 x-motion).
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He does explain how to check the wiring. As I understand things, opening the electrical box on Felder tools voids the warrantee. I suppose I can ask for permission to do so once the machine arrives.
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Note that ?he says it does not make a great deal of difference where the manufactured leg is connected.
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Hi John,
Most?of our machines connect the brown power cable wire to Leg 2 inside the machine as shown in her picture, but not all. Yours happens to be one of the exceptions. The high leg's position does not immediately cause any problems though. For some components being connected to the high leg can slightly reduce component life span. Generally we have 2 legs of power that go to the control electronics and 1 that mostly only goes to the motor, and we put the high leg on the wire that just powers the motor. That keeps it away from the more sensitive electronics. This is essentially extra?protection for the longevity of the parts, not a requirement for them to run. We still recommend putting the high leg on Leg 2 to ensure maximum life span but connecting to a different leg wouldn't prevent the machine from running.
If you'd like to be 100% sure you can open the electrical panel on the machine and trace the power cable's wires back into the panel. They will go from your shop, to the on / off power disconnect switch on the chassis, then to DIN rail terminals labeled L1, L2, and L3. You're looking for the wire connected to the L2 terminal.
Best Regards
Phillip Dingus
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John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Felder Diamond Blade - saw marks
Awesome info. Thanks.?
I purchased the AKE blade with the Felder specs at 300mm 2.4 kerf.?
they have a 2.0 kerf 300mm blade that I felt might be too thin and likely have some degree of deflection. Though the super thin kerf was attractive for what I work with.?
I was hoping to get the same degree of smoothness as some of the YouTube videos out there, but alas, doesn’t seem to be in the cards for this particular blade. Though I’m going to try changing feed rates and make sure the rotational speed is set up properly. The sheet goods are definitely better than the hardwoods. But the cuts on the hard maple are some of the worst I’ve had with any blade.?
Just a bummer considering how quiet it is and how long the diamonds are supposed to last. Was hoping to leave it on the saw for 90% of what I do.?
I did go ahead and order a few Freud blades that are the carbon copies of the Felder silent series lineup. I’m guessing Freud makes most Felder blades and Felder just slaps their branding on it and charges more money. Kinda silly IMO. ??
I have a nice 400mm Felder blade I can use. But it’s loud and a nice fat 4.0 kerf. I prefer something thinner as I do a lot of sheet goods and smaller stock projects.?
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I had a tenyru on my sawstop and currently have one on my Kapex and they haven’t ever disappointed tbh. So I can def take a look there as well.?
we’ll see how this slightly thinner kerf freud blade perform first.?
Freud LU1H12 350mm 3mm kerf 60 tooth general purpose?
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The contractors I supply Millwork to build as Brian describes. Usually 1/4” ply attached to the walls then just lineal material we supply for the stiles and rails with butt joints at the corners. If done carefully it looks ok and easier than premade panels being installed. Especially going up stairs.
A while back we supplied quartered white oak doors and trim for a Victorian house and the wainscoting was done this way. The homeowner was upset when he found out the panels were veneered ply but I thought it looked fine. It’s possible to do all solid but will certainly make building more complex.
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On 26-7-2024 23:12, David P. Best wrote:
Everything in that response from Felder looks right to me with the
exception of the statement that the black wire is on L2.
Traditionally, the L2 connection has been the brown wire, but
there have been instances of it being wired incorrectly at the
factory. ? I strongly advise you check the schematic and do some
continuity testing when your machine arrives to figure out which
color wire is actually on L2 at the Felder machine end.?
There is conventions...
... but there seems to be no strict adherence (from the Felder
factory) for phases and there colors, luckily they do agree on
Neutral (N, blue) and Protective Earth (PE, green).
Traditionally in single phase systems L (phase) is brown, most
likely there fore also for L1 (1st phase, in a three phase
system).
Kind regards,
Jonathan from the Felder side of the
pond ;-)
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Marshall, in all the wainscoting I have seen, and personally built generally you put your sub straight over the entire wall; stiles and rails are just rectangular (cross section) then a molding with your profile between the stile/rail and sub straight. No reason to use solid sock if you are shooting for the “recessed” panel look. Even the stiles and rails can be laminated product if your using molding. Also putting the sub straight over the entire wall serves to “pack out” the wall so you get a nice dimensional look when installing a molding (chair rail) on top.? Only when you can see the “B” side of a door, would you use the methods that you describe IMO? Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
On Sat, Jul 27, 2024 at 10:15?PM Marshall Snodgrass via <mtsnodgrassdds= [email protected]> wrote:
I know how to do a few things but am certainly not a professional thus I am a bit confused as to how to proceed and have found little help online as to what I need to accomplish what I want.? Any help will be greatly appreciated. ?
I mill my own wood so various thickness are easy to acquire.? We are building a house and there are areas within the house I want to do Wainscoting 1/3 up the wall.? I am familiar with doing raised panel doors and have the shaper cutters to do them.? I can cut both rails and stiles sides and ends to they make a smooth connection.? The stiles and rails will have a groove for the raised pale to fit into and then where rails and stiles meet there is a reverse of the pattern which creates a smooth fit.? My dilemma is that the shapers I have cut with the groove, but I want to do a rabbet joint for a flat panel to fit into back of the stiles and rails and want the stiles and rails shaped with a pattern which would show in front of the flat panel.? In order to get a nice appearance the end of the stiles must be cut to fit smooth against the rails.? I have searched for stile and rail cutters that do not cut the groove for the raised panel.? In theory I could cut with my regular shaper cutter and slide the flat panel into the groove.? My choice would be to have rabbet joint directly against the wall.? If I have failed to explain this I apologize.? Please ask questions. ?
If you have ideas of what shaper cutters would do the patten on the rails and stiles I would appreciate it.? I plan to do the rabbet with the Dado cutter.? I am using a Hammer c3-31. ?
?
Thank you for suggestions. ?
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Few more from 30’s
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 28, 2024, at 9:49?AM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Ideas Snap shots from a series of hard bound books I have this one is from 30’s I have 3 different vintage books from 30’s back to 1890 ?for sale $125 .00 each? Contact me off fog if interested. Mac,,
<IMG_4747.jpeg> <IMG_4745.jpeg> <IMG_4746.jpeg> <IMG_4744.jpeg> Designing and building for 50 years On Jul 28, 2024, at 8:21?AM, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? Marshall,
I think you are talking about making the cope and stick to allow you to insert a panel (glass typically) from the back? The attached infinity cutter set has that option.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
<Screenshot_20240728-081356.png>
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Ideas Snap shots from a series of hard bound books I have this one is from 30’s I have 3 different vintage books from 30’s back to 1890 ?for sale $125 .00 each? Contact me off fog if interested. Mac,,
    Designing and building for 50 years
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Show quoted text
On Jul 28, 2024, at 8:21?AM, Jason Holtz via groups.io <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? Marshall,
I think you are talking about making the cope and stick to allow you to insert a panel (glass typically) from the back? The attached infinity cutter set has that option.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
<Screenshot_20240728-081356.png>
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Marshall,
I think you are talking about making the cope and stick to allow you to insert a panel (glass typically) from the back? The attached infinity cutter set has that option.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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This is not answering your question but may give you some ideas.
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On Jul 27, 2024, at 10:15?PM, Marshall Snodgrass via groups.io <mtsnodgrassdds@...> wrote: ? I know how to do a few things but am certainly not a professional thus I am a bit confused as to how to proceed and have found little help online as to what I need to accomplish what I want. ?Any help will be greatly appreciated. ?
I mill my own wood so various thickness are easy to acquire. ?We are building a house and there are areas within the house I want to do Wainscoting 1/3 up the wall. ?I am familiar with doing raised panel doors and have the shaper cutters to do them. ?I can cut both rails and stiles sides and ends to they make a smooth connection. ?The stiles and rails will have a groove for the raised pale to fit into and then where rails and stiles meet there is a reverse of the pattern which creates a smooth fit. ?My dilemma is that the shapers I have cut with the groove, but I want to do a rabbet joint for a flat panel to fit into back of the stiles and rails and want the stiles and rails shaped with a pattern which would show in front of the flat panel. ?In order to get a nice appearance the end of the stiles must be cut to fit smooth against the rails. ?I have searched for stile and rail cutters that do not cut the groove for the raised panel. ?In theory I could cut with my regular shaper cutter and slide the flat panel into the groove. ?My choice would be to have rabbet joint directly against the wall. ?If I have failed to explain this I apologize. ?Please ask questions. ?
If you have ideas of what shaper cutters would do the patten on the rails and stiles I would appreciate it. ?I plan to do the rabbet with the Dado cutter. ?I am using a Hammer c3-31. ?
?
Thank you for suggestions. ?
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You might have to run the profile separately and do jack miters. Then you could rabbet the back. Or just run your shaper cutters and cut the back part of the groove off. All more steps than a dedicated cutter that you are looking?for, but it should work.
On Sat, Jul 27, 2024, 9:15?PM Marshall Snodgrass via <mtsnodgrassdds= [email protected]> wrote: I know how to do a few things but am certainly not a professional thus I am a bit confused as to how to proceed and have found little help online as to what I need to accomplish what I want.? Any help will be greatly appreciated. ?
I mill my own wood so various thickness are easy to acquire.? We are building a house and there are areas within the house I want to do Wainscoting 1/3 up the wall.? I am familiar with doing raised panel doors and have the shaper cutters to do them.? I can cut both rails and stiles sides and ends to they make a smooth connection.? The stiles and rails will have a groove for the raised pale to fit into and then where rails and stiles meet there is a reverse of the pattern which creates a smooth fit.? My dilemma is that the shapers I have cut with the groove, but I want to do a rabbet joint for a flat panel to fit into back of the stiles and rails and want the stiles and rails shaped with a pattern which would show in front of the flat panel.? In order to get a nice appearance the end of the stiles must be cut to fit smooth against the rails.? I have searched for stile and rail cutters that do not cut the groove for the raised panel.? In theory I could cut with my regular shaper cutter and slide the flat panel into the groove.? My choice would be to have rabbet joint directly against the wall.? If I have failed to explain this I apologize.? Please ask questions. ?
If you have ideas of what shaper cutters would do the patten on the rails and stiles I would appreciate it.? I plan to do the rabbet with the Dado cutter.? I am using a Hammer c3-31. ?
?
Thank you for suggestions. ?
|
I know how to do a few things but am certainly not a professional thus I am a bit confused as to how to proceed and have found little help online as to what I need to accomplish what I want. ?Any help will be greatly appreciated. ?
I mill my own wood so various thickness are easy to acquire. ?We are building a house and there are areas within the house I want to do Wainscoting 1/3 up the wall. ?I am familiar with doing raised panel doors and have the shaper cutters to do them. ?I can cut both rails and stiles sides and ends to they make a smooth connection. ?The stiles and rails will have a groove for the raised pale to fit into and then where rails and stiles meet there is a reverse of the pattern which creates a smooth fit. ?My dilemma is that the shapers I have cut with the groove, but I want to do a rabbet joint for a flat panel to fit into back of the stiles and rails and want the stiles and rails shaped with a pattern which would show in front of the flat panel. ?In order to get a nice appearance the end of the stiles must be cut to fit smooth against the rails. ?I have searched for stile and rail cutters that do not cut the groove for the raised panel. ?In theory I could cut with my regular shaper cutter and slide the flat panel into the groove. ?My choice would be to have rabbet joint directly against the wall. ?If I have failed to explain this I apologize. ?Please ask questions. ?
If you have ideas of what shaper cutters would do the patten on the rails and stiles I would appreciate it. ?I plan to do the rabbet with the Dado cutter. ?I am using a Hammer c3-31. ?
?
Thank you for suggestions. ?
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Re: Minimax cu300 smart capacitor
Hi Ron,
Typically there is a start (usually larger capacitance) and a run capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are built with two foil strips (+ & -) with welded terminals which are separated by another 2 strips of electrolyte impregnated paper. This 4 layer strip is rolled into a cigar and put into the can. Electrolytic caps have a defined useful life. The ones that survive the early failure usually fail due to wear out mechanism. Most likely it is just the cap, if the motor runs as usual.
Imran Malik
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On Jul 26, 2024, at 8:04?PM, Ron zemel via groups.io <rzemel3@...> wrote: ? The planner motor in my Minimax cu300 was working fine but when I attempted to restart after using it for a while it ?just hummed. The capacitor had a huge hole burnt through it. After replacing the capacitor it now starts right up. Are both capacitors running capacitors or is one a starting capacitor? Is there a centrifugal switch in the motor that could have caused it? Not sure what caused the burnout. Any suggestions would be much appreciated
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Liz is awesome, she is my rep.
I received this document via the Felder rep in Sacramento, Elizabeth Rogers. It is not consistent with Mr. Dingus’ message. This shows brown as the L2 wire.
?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Minimax cu300 smart capacitor
The planner motor in my Minimax cu300 was working fine but when I attempted to restart after using it for a while it ?just hummed. The capacitor had a huge hole burnt through it. After replacing the capacitor it now starts right up. Are both capacitors running capacitors or is one a starting capacitor? Is there a centrifugal switch in the motor that could have caused it? Not sure what caused the burnout. Any suggestions would be much appreciated
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This may help explain:
David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jul 26, 2024, at 4:10?PM, John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
? I received this document via the Felder rep in Sacramento, Elizabeth Rogers. It is not consistent with Mr. Dingus’ message. This shows brown as the L2 wire.
?
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Minimax cu300 smart capacitor
A capacitor on my surfacing motor had a hole burnt through it the size of a 50 cent piece. I was planning some boards turned it off for around a half hour and when I attempted to restart it, it just hummed. I had the capacitor replaced and now,at least so far, is working just fine. I still don’t know what would cause this burn out. Are both capacitors running capacitors or is one of them a starting capacitor? Is there a centrifugal switch in the motor that would possibly be the culprit?
Any feedback would be much appreciated
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I received this document via the Felder rep in Sacramento, Elizabeth Rogers. It is not consistent with Mr. Dingus’ message. This shows brown as the L2 wire.
?
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John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Haha! John. At least “Best” is easy to spell. Some people make an absolute mess of my surname. Even after 27 years of marriage my mother-in-law still refers to me as “that Glockenspiel” boy. “Lucky” is a good compromise!
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer
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Bummer about the name, David. I guess we can not all be …. Lucky.
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John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Bummer about the name, David. I guess we can not all be …. Lucky.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Kit to add Fiama F8P to Felder Rip Fence
Hi Jim,
Sent you a private message.
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On Jul 26, 2024, at 4:39?PM, Jim Dayton via groups.io <jd74914@...> wrote: ? I’d like that Imran. Can’t figure out how to message you privately though.?
James On Fri, Jul 26, 2024 at 4:35?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: My friend printed this DRO kit but ended up with a minor imperfection on the rear; see blue arrows in the pic. It is $30 shipped to the lower 48.
Fiama offers long battery life and one button push to switch between fence hi/lo postions.
Comes with detailed instructions. Pics show installation on my K975 saw.
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image3.jpeg>
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Jonathan Martens
Brian
Jason Holtz
imran
David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer