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Re: Dual 51 Issues
开云体育Hi Terry,I used to remove difficult inserts for Ortli tools when they had a branch in middleton. If I recall I would apply heat with a propane torch to the screw head and when hot apply little slick 50 or lps 1 to screw than remove with quality whip t handle,? Than use locatite copper when reinserting . Use torque wrench to install. Mac martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Feb 13, 2024, at 7:07?AM, Terence via groups.io <terencewoolston@...> wrote:
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Re: For Sale: AD951 and K940S
#forsale
Same. but for the jointer/planer. No response.? Let me know if you find contact information for him.? On Mon, Feb 12, 2024 at 3:39?PM James Synyard <Jimsynyard@...> wrote:
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Dual 51 Issues
I have a Format 4, Dual 51 and two Maintenance issues need to be resolved:
1. ?I rotated all the carbide inserts for the second time. ?Three of the inserts are being stubborn...the torx bit simply shears off prior to extraction. ?I thought maybe cheap torx driver was the problem but same with a Snapon. ?I also used an impact driver with same result. ?The inserts were not over-torqued during install. ?I thought about grinding out the insert and applying heat to the torx screw but am open to suggestions. 2. ?I have power drive on the planer. ?During a portion of the travel from say an inch to 5 inches open I get a loud vibration noise. ?I have pulled the access plates and cleaned everything to no avail. ?The sound appears to originate from the two vertical stiles on either side of the planer bed. ?There are a series of adjustment screws and fittings and I suspect that somehow these are out of adjustment. ?I have had the Dual for 10 years and this is a new issue the last few months. ?The Felder documentation has no specifications for the risers. I have not yet contacted Felder service but thought I would check in with the group expertise first. Best, Terry Noble Artisan Woodworks |
Re: Adjustment Issue
Hello Everyone, I thought?I would circle back and just let everyone know that?I did fix this issue. I spoke to a gentleman at Felder who was tremendously?helpful. Turns out it was a combo of things: Cast iron top for table saw needed to be moved forward (Dead blow hammer and a block of wood after loosening the leveling bolts), and the pin of the hinge joint on the outfeed table of the jointer needed some coaxing (wedge, hammer again). It could have also been that the two machines (which are bolted together) were out of alignment but that was not the case. My fence now slides smoothly from one end to the other on my CF 741 S Professional. Thank you again for everyone who contributed.? Regards, Peter T.? On Sat, Dec 2, 2023 at 3:36?PM mac campshure via <mac512002=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: For Sale: AD951 and K940S
#forsale
Hi Steve,? I sent an email last night on CL and I never heard back from him. I am interested in the saw. Is there a way I can get in touch with your?friend directly? Thank you.? Jim On Mon, Feb 12, 2024 at 3:21?PM Steven B <sb@...> wrote: Posting on behalf of a friend: |
For Sale: AD951 and K940S
#forsale
Posting on behalf of a friend:
The springs on the AD951 need to be tightened a bit as it's harder than it should be to flip open. Otherwise in good working order. Steve |
Re: Help needed with shaper setup
开云体育
Call Western Roller - tell them what feeder you have and they can recommend narrow wheels for it. ? David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best |
Re: Help needed with shaper setup
Here is a drawing I use in the Alpine courses to explain the split fence and faults.
Outside fence is usually better for cabinet parts if workpieces are short. But do not use an outside fence without a feeder. With no feeder split fence is better. Changing out wheels to narrow is not necessary unless your outside fence is same height or higher than the workpiece. I use thin fences when doing this just to avoid the hassle of changing wheels. |
Re: Help needed with shaper setup
David, Gerry Kmack |
Re: Help needed with shaper setup
开云体育Hi David: ? Wow, I was not aware of Steve Rowe’s video on making a back-fence. Really clearly outlines the principles and I’m already sharing this video with friends who wish they had bought the Thickness Stop when it was available. Thanks for sharing the link. ? (And well done Steve!) ? Warm regards, Lucky ? From:
[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> ?
? You should be able to offset your outfeed fence to properly support the more-narrow profiled section coming off the cutter. ?By staggering the fence offsets you can ensure the full profile is cut and still get the support of the material against the fence on both sides of the cutter. ?Of course you’ll have to take this into consideration during stock prep by making the material slightly wider to accommodate. ?I always leave the styles slightly over-width and then trim the outside edge of the door to fit after glue-up, rather than trying to build it to 0.5mm tolerances. ?I also leave the styles over-length and trim top and bottom of the door after glue-up. ?If the widths of the door styles and rails vary by a mm or two, you’re not likely to see that on something like a kitchen cab or vanity. ?But that’s just me - lots of ways to skin this cat. ?If you want to dialog about workflows, DM me - I have a number of videos that go into this topic. ? Personally, I would not run the inside profile without a power feeder - too dangerous. ?You may also discover that the standard feeder wheels are too wide to run cabinet door styles and rails. ?For this application I use narrow wheels on the feeder. ? ? You can easily make your own back-fence from a sheet of plywood secured to the locked sliding table. ?Fellow FOG member Steve Rowe has a nice video about this you can see here: ?. Note that you can also secure the back-fence to the sliding table T-slots using a couple bolts into T-nuts below. ? ? ? David Best |
Re: Help needed with shaper setup
开云体育
You should be able to offset your outfeed fence to properly support the more-narrow profiled section coming off the cutter. ?By staggering the fence offsets you can ensure the full profile is cut and still get the support of the material against the fence on both sides of the cutter. ?Of course you’ll have to take this into consideration during stock prep by making the material slightly wider to accommodate. ?I always leave the styles slightly over-width and then trim the outside edge of the door to fit after glue-up, rather than trying to build it to 0.5mm tolerances. ?I also leave the styles over-length and trim top and bottom of the door after glue-up. ?If the widths of the door styles and rails vary by a mm or two, you’re not likely to see that on something like a kitchen cab or vanity. ?But that’s just me - lots of ways to skin this cat. ?If you want to dialog about workflows, DM me - I have a number of videos that go into this topic. ? Personally, I would not run the inside profile without a power feeder - too dangerous. ?You may also discover that the standard feeder wheels are too wide to run cabinet door styles and rails. ?For this application I use narrow wheels on the feeder. ? You can easily make your own back-fence from a sheet of plywood secured to the locked sliding table. ?Fellow FOG member Steve Rowe has a nice video about this you can see here: ?. Note that you can also secure the back-fence to the sliding table T-slots using a couple bolts into T-nuts below. ? David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best |
Re: Sheet good recommendations
开云体育Hi Bob: ? I am not strictly familiar with “light marine plywood” from BGB but if it is reasonably priced (sub-$100 AUD) then I’m assuming it is light-weight pine which is nowhere near as sturdy as the hardwood marine plywood variety that runs to several hundred AUD per sheet. If the numbers work out, I’d consider laminating (glue, screw) sheets together, or else you’ll need to think about a hardwood stiffener for shelves. Horses for courses … ? Warm regards, Lucky ? Dr David Luckensmeyer ? From:
[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Bob Wise <bob@...> Great discussion.... at risk of a slight hi-jacking of the thread, how do you think the light marine plywood from BGB would work for shop shelving? I'm about to embark on some storage upgrades. ? ? On Sun, Feb 4, 2024 at 2:47?PM David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...>
wrote:
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Re: Help needed with shaper setup
As usual, I greatly appreciate the input of this group. Yes, David, the spindle was tilted. Not sure how that happened as I never adjust that, but it was off vertical. I swept it anyway and got even front, right, and back but 0.06mm high on the out feed side. That's weird, but probably within tolerance.?
Joe, this is the Amana SC542 cutter set. It cuts a full profile, including the tenon. I had adjusted the fence for the profile cut but had not checked the cope. It was indeed about 3mm short. So, moving the fence back to get a full tenon on the cope cut now yields a terrible snipe on the profile cut. So much for the idea that these cutters are a matched set that can be used in a stacked arrangement.? It appears that I'll have to do different setups for copes and then change everything and set back up for the profiles. That's hardly convenient. Am I missing something? Pictures: the joint is now flat, but the tenon is still ever so slightly short. I might need to back the fence up slightly.? Without using a back fence (which I don't have), I'm concerned about changing the width of my stock. Also, it looks like I should get the 240V supply hooked up so I can use this F38 power feeder. I really wish it was 120V. |
Re: Help needed with shaper setup
Couple questions - are you removing the whole edge on both the cope cut and the profiling cut?
It looks like from the pictures your tongue is way short. Hard to see in the picture. Does the cope cutter cut the end of the tongue? Set like that can be a little tricky to set. |
Re: Help needed with shaper setup
开云体育I’ll hazard a few guesses:
I would first start by checking your spindle angle: put a dial indicator on a mag base on the naked spindle an indicate a circular pattern around the cast iron top as shown below. ?If the spindle is perpendicular to the cast iron top, the indicator will yield zero (or close to zero) variation as you rotate the spindle by hand (using the belt to rotate the spindle). I would also check the height of your sliding table relative to the cast iron top and reporting back. ?If it’s excessive, you might be able to correct this by either shimming the bottom of your coping sled where it rests on the cast iron top, or tilting your spindle backward (which would be tedious and require some trigonometry to figure the proper angle to offset the angled sled base. ? Try this experiment: ?Put your rail component on the cast iron top laying right to left against the shaper fence, then butt your coped material into the profiled of the rail with it laying across the sliding table. ?Do the joints mesh in a tighter manner? ?If so, the cope cut is indeed angled because the material is not coplanar to the cast iron top (because the sliding table is too high). David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Help needed with shaper setup
I am confused by a problem I'm running into. I am setting up the KF700 with a set of Amana cope and stile cutters. I have the stile cutter on the bottom and the cope on top with about 40mm of spacers between them. I am cutting the cope end using my Woodpeckers coping sled.?
I have a problem where it appears that the "back" of the cope joint is interfering before the top. I've never had a problem like this using similar cutters on the router table. The result is that the joint doesn't sit flat, but has a shallow angle. If I press both pieces down to the table, I get a gap on the "front" of the joint of 0.6mm.? Both pieces are square when I set them in my Starrett square.? So, any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong? I'd really prefer to make my cabinet doors on the Felder than to break out the router table again.? |
Re: Felder K700S (and others) Wenge Zero Clearance Inserts
开云体育Hi Steve, I assume you are asking for the 45 deg as the blade can be raised for 90 deg kerf. I was cutting a scarf joint on 9’ long walnut boards that were 1’ wide. One piece had to be cut upside down and I was concerned with tearout. I just cut it and it turned out fine.??So I probably won’t not dealt with it until I need it next time. I assume this is easy when making on CNC unless one is looking for the exact kerf width for zero clearance. I don’t really need zero clearance, just don’t like small slivers falling below table. Imran Malik On Feb 11, 2024, at 7:55?AM, Steven B <sb@...> wrote:
?Imran, how did you make the cut for the scoring blade? Steve |
Re: Felder K700S (and others) Wenge Zero Clearance Inserts
开云体育Steve,Well done. So I use 2, one for straight cuts and the other, that allows the blade to tilt all the way to 45 deg. Few months ago I realized that, on my saw, there is no way?to make the angled blade opening using?the scoring blade itself. With saw aggregate turned to an angle, I can’t reach the nut to raise the blade. So electronic control has a benefit. Obviously, the job can be done using a different method. Imran Malik On Feb 10, 2024, at 5:40?PM, Steven B <sb@...> wrote:
?Feeling a bit impatient as I destroyed my throat plate a few days ago, I went ahead and modeled up the ZCI and cut a few on the Shapeoko. I made one from 9mm baltic birch and another from a scrap of quartered walnut that happened to be the perfect size. Steve <IMG_5026.JPG> <IMG_5030.JPG>
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