Re: Workshops at the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship eg. with Garrett Hack
Joel, A good friend of mine has taken classes with Garret both at CFC and Marc Adams, and Anderson Ranch I believe as well. She cannot speak highly enough about him and his teaching. It's a beautiful part of Maine also. Enjoy!
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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This one?
On Jan 22, 2023, at 7:17 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?[Edited Message Follows]
This is the best book I have seen on bandsaw tuning. From the 1950s and revised in the 60s. Don¡¯t know if it¡¯s still available. Goes into great detail on truing wheels, both for saws that can interchange wheels top to bottom and those that cannot. And
a lot of other things. Covers other machines from that era but mostly not relevant to modern woodworking machines but bandsaw technology has not changed much. Also good for HC mortisers.
Cannot seem to get the picture to post
Book is wood shop tool maintenance
Cunningham and Holtrop
-- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
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This is the best book I have seen on bandsaw tuning. From the 1950s and revised in the 60s. Don¡¯t know if it¡¯s still available. Goes into great detail on truing wheels, both for saws that can interchange wheels top to bottom and those that cannot. And a lot of other things. Covers other machines from that era but mostly not relevant to modern woodworking machines but bandsaw technology has not changed much. Also good for HC mortisers.
Cannot seem to get the picture to post
Book is wood shop tool maintenance
Cunningham and Holtrop
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Re: Workshops at the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship eg. with Garrett Hackouched any power tool
To my way of thinking ?I became proficient with all hand tools before I ever touched a power tool . I took to extreme s cut all my fire wood with hand saw before I bought my Jonsrud ?chain saw . I spent a couple years ?just planing boards and mastering , rip with hand saw cross cutting with saw.? Transporting by horse and buggy . Cheated on that one sold my Volvo to buy track horse on the mend. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 22, 2023, at 7:34 PM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
?I was telling a fellow FOG member with quite a bit of machinery expertise after working on a few things which needed hand tools that I would benefit from improving my skills. ?He said he once upon a time travelled to Maine to attend a workshop involving hand tool use, and got to meet Garrett Hack. ?He did not take one of his classes at the time as he was there for a different course, but provided positive feedback.
Many posts here have discussed the great experiences at the Alpine Technical workshop with Joe Calhoon, and I was one of those who posted having attended twice with a hope to return in the future. ? However, I think my next class should focus on getting better with different planes and chisels and other hand tools.
Today I signed up for the August Precision with Hand Tools 4-day workshop with Garrett Hack. ?Anyone not familiar with him should look him up. ?For sure there is a lot I could learn from a master craftsman like him. ?I did a search here and did not locate any posts on this woodworking school, and perhaps part of that is because this is a forum about higher end woodworking machines, but surely many if not most if not all who work with fancy machines have a use for hand tools and an ability to know how to properly sharpen and use them.
FYI should anyone have an interest. ?
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On ACM and felder and agazoni the motors bolt up to the chassis face and the adjustments are for belt tension moving motor up and down. In the chassis slots. Go ahead and try can¡¯t see. that it will affect the wheel unless it wasn¡¯t set in first place
? Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 22, 2023, at 7:04 PM, tom@... wrote:
?Hi Greg,?
To be clear, my prompt to look at that pulley was the squealing sound, which the Felder tech suggested might be a mis-aligned pulley. I didn't think the vibration was "bad", but after the adjustment the vibration is virtually nil. And, the pulley adjustment was pretty minor, 2-3mm. Hope you're able to track your issue down.?
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Workshops at the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship eg. with Garrett Hack
I was telling a fellow FOG member with quite a bit of machinery expertise after working on a few things which needed hand tools that I would benefit from improving my skills. ?He said he once upon a time travelled to Maine to attend a workshop involving hand tool use, and got to meet Garrett Hack. ?He did not take one of his classes at the time as he was there for a different course, but provided positive feedback.
Many posts here have discussed the great experiences at the Alpine Technical workshop with Joe Calhoon, and I was one of those who posted having attended twice with a hope to return in the future. ? However, I think my next class should focus on getting better with different planes and chisels and other hand tools.
Today I signed up for the August Precision with Hand Tools 4-day workshop with Garrett Hack. ?Anyone not familiar with him should look him up. ?For sure there is a lot I could learn from a master craftsman like him. ?I did a search here and did not locate any posts on this woodworking school, and perhaps part of that is because this is a forum about higher end woodworking machines, but surely many if not most if not all who work with fancy machines have a use for hand tools and an ability to know how to properly sharpen and use them.
FYI should anyone have an interest. ?
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Hi Greg,?
To be clear, my prompt to look at that pulley was the squealing sound, which the Felder tech suggested might be a mis-aligned pulley. I didn't think the vibration was "bad", but after the adjustment the vibration is virtually nil. And, the pulley adjustment was pretty minor, 2-3mm. Hope you're able to track your issue down.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Tom,
Drive pulley adjustment is not something I or anyone else has done or suggested. I'll try it. Thanks very much.?
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Re: K700S On and off switch on the sliding table - broken cable
Hi Aaron,?
Oh-no!! I'm sorry to hear about your damaged wire. I have to admit, I was really worried about mine during assembly. I have a recent model KF700 w/ remote start, I'll see if I can carve out some time on Monday to dig up my documentation and see if I can find a wiring diagram.?
In the mean time, I'd suggest submitting a ticket to Felder Service here:??
I've found that Felder Service normally takes a couple days to follow up, but when they do they can provide most (if not all) of the documentation related to your machine, as well as guidance about repairs.?
It is my understanding that the current generation remote start uses a radio frequency signal to tell the saw to start, while the "stop" signal is hardwired, using the slider as part of the circuit.?
A side note relating to the remote start, I was experiencing intermittent issues with my remote start, where sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't (it always worked to "Stop", didn't always work to "Start"). After keeping a "diary" of when the adverse behavior was taking place, I think I've tracked it down to ambient temperature. My shop is not air conditioned (hoping to add a mini-split this Spring), and I observed that the remote start tended to not properly work during the summer months, when my thermostat regularly would read "99F". It's still unclear to me whether it was actually 99F, or if it was warmer but the thermostat only reads to double digits. Either way, every surface in the shop was warm to the touch, and I imagine that the warm temperatures were not playing nice with some of the electronics. Either way, the Felder techs were very generous with their time, and spent several hours working with me to trouble shoot the issue. Lesson learned: Keep the shop at a reasonable temperature....
I'll see what I can come up with, and hopefully Felder can help as well. Good luck!?
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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K700S On and off switch on the sliding table - broken cable
Does anyone have any documentation or wiring diagrams for this feature.? My cable, unfortunately, has been damaged from handling.? It appears to be a 2-conductor cable with two black wires that are wired to the conductive sliding table rails.? The connection is, in turn, picked up by other wires that connect to Eaton M22-CK10 and M22-CK01 push button contact blocks at the end of the sliding table where the power buttons are.? Does anyone have any documentation or wiring diagrams for this feature?? I can easily repair this cable, but my concern is that it carries DC power where the polarity of the wires are critical. 
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On the comment about the bandsaw tires, great you fixed your vibration problem. ?Seems there should be a way of measuring the variation and there should be an acceptable "runout". ?See picture. ?Does anyone do something like this while rotating the top tire by hand?
I went to my second bandsaw setup class yesterday with the first one last week. ?During the prior class by Alex Snodgrass I was advised that the deepest part of the gullet should be in the center of the tire. ?The instructor yesterday said the teeth should be in the center. ?It seems like with the teeth in the center of a crowned tire, that would not be good for tire life.
Anyhow, the topic of blade drift came up. ?I am very well aware of how one will correct for drift by adjusting the fence, and the Kreg aftermarket and Laguna drift master fences are 2 examples of fences that allow adjustment. ?However, the instructor suggested that was silly as no matter what, you want your fence parallel to the miter slot as otherwise you have a problem when using that. This made sense to me. ?His approach was to take a long narrow piece of plywood and make a cut along the length. ?If he had to adjust the cut away from the wood being parallel to the miter slot to keep the cut on the line, then the fix was to adjust the tilt of the blade by adjusting the tracking where the goal is blade parallel to both fence and miter slot. ?During the demo there was a bit of drift after the blade change, and the tracking adjustment corrected this. ?I suppose that fine adjusts where the gullet and teeth are relative to the center of the tire. ?For narrow blades, hard to tell if teeth vs gullets are what are dead center.
Other causes of vibration came up. ?Issues to address suggested to make sure the guides were not touching the blade when the wheels were spinning in the absence of a cut being made, and that all was well with any belts from the motor assuming not direct drive, and that the wheels were balanced (separate from them being true). ?It was suggested a marking be placed on a part of the tire and that it be spun and then you see where the marking ends up. ?The idea is that if the wheels are balanced, the marking ends up at random positions rather than a certain position. The wheels were ok and so I did not get to see a demo of out of balance and it then being fixed.?
Another thread discussed the poor dust collection on bandsaws. ?No one had a remedy for that.
The above is just an FYI. ?I am no bandsaw expert, but trying to learn and make sure my equipment is dialed in.
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Hi Greg,?
I just received a new FB 710. The machine was perfect "out of the box", with the following exception: There was a slight "whining" sound from the lower wheel, and a slight amount of vibration. I discussed with a Felder tech on the phone, and came to the conclusion that the drive pulley on the motor shaft was slightly out of alignment with the pulley on the bottom wheel. I loosened the two set screws securing the pulley, moved it 2mm on the drive shaft closer to the motor, tightened the set screws. Fixed the noise and vibration issue, saw runs like a dream now.?
Not sure if this is your issue, but it might be work looking at....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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I¡¯ve got a 2018 FB510 with vibration too. Two Felder techs worked on it and improved it a little but like John, it still bugs me. I¡¯m intrigued by the videos of Pleasant Street Machinery. Does anyone know of a good mechanic or similar shop in Northern California??
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Thanks John,? Glad it¡¯s working for you. Nice that you kept at it and figured it out.? I have to do this fine detailing on my Oliver. I have a aggazoni / rapid 640 I used to have a 640 ACM both mine run smooth.? I have always run the wheels flat as they came . I run the blade so the deepest part his of the gullet is on the tire edge. This is the recommended set up for this type of saw. My 36¡± Oliver is crowned like you have done with yours. ?My 640 I bought some 25 years ago I traded to off to a shop that had a Do All 16¡± from UW Engenneering it sat around for many the tire edge years I did not like the drive system at all.? I went through the hole saw repaired . And pimped then gutted out the whole drive. With my friend fog member Mike Leiferman we put are heads together and designed a new drive .? I gutted out the two speed transmission change the interior shafting around , welded the main shaft together with slight modification and so the lower wheel has a double 8¡± shaft supported by two bearings on each end of the transmission so transmission is only a large pillow block Put a modern 20 to 1 gear box in with 5 step pulleys and a fast change belt tensioner run by a two speed low rpm motor Baldor motor jacks hp to 1.5 and added a 1/2 hp Baldor motor to run air pump.? Results very nice this one is in my lab. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 22, 2023, at 7:17 AM, Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
? Thanks for the tip John¡ Bill A brief recap:
- bought a used FB540. The previous owner had little time on it but the tires were somewhat chewed up on the outside edge from blade teeth. I did not know any better about this so I used the saw as is.
- After year or so the vibration just bugged me. I started by replacing the drive belt and the tires. Got both new from Felder. Gluing on the new tires was not very difficult. No real improvement after this.
- I then swapped out the static phase converter for a rotary phase converter thinking maybe running on two phases was making the motor lumpy. It did not help.
- Next I marked the wheel quadrants and started methodically placing automotive wheels weights around the wheel. Used a vibration app on my cell phone to measure, record, and compare the various weight placements. (duct tape the weights in place during trials). I eventually reached optimium weight placements for both upper and lower wheels. Then riveted them in place. This helped.
- After six months or so I thought still to much vibration. I mean, it was small vibration but could not stand up a nickle for more than 10 seconds. okay, maybe I am a bit anal but the eyes did not like focusing on a tenon cut with the background doing a shimmy.
- In a conversation with Jeff at Northfield he had mentioned the importance of truing the tires, maybe more so than balancing. I can't find anybody to balance or true the tires for me so I get to thinking and the sandpaper square block pops to mind. I was hoping the saw back plate was sufficiently planar to the wheels to make this sanding block align correctly to the wheels. Actually I first tried to hand hold a palm sander in place while the wife turned the wheel. Not a good idea, can't maintain accurate position.?
- I created 3 x 3 x 3 square block. Put some magnets on the bottom. Stapled some 120 grit sandpaper to three sides. Used the sandpaper square block on both wheels. It's a slow process hand turning the wheels. I was not crazy enough to just turn the saw on. Thought about it, did not do it. Then i took off all the weights I had put on. Left on all original Felder weights.
- Now the vibration is greatly reduced. Can stand a nickle on the table as long as you want. I am calling it good.
- I am concluding my vibration problem was all about tires with high and low spots. Sanding the tires to concentric fixed it. The original tires were somewhat chewed up from saw teeth. The new tires had various glue thickness creating highs and lows.
Here are some pictures of the sanding block. I hand turned the wheel, now and then bumping the block back against the tire. It takes a while, the arms get tired, beer is helpful, but the tires ended up true and flat. I then put a slight shim to one bottom edge of the block to angle the block and repeated the process to create a crown. Jeff said a very slight crown is all you need, maybe? 1/2 to 1 degree.
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Thanks for the tip John¡ Bill
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A brief recap:
- bought a used FB540. The previous owner had little time on it but the tires were somewhat chewed up on the outside edge from blade teeth. I did not know any better about this so I used the saw as is.
- After year or so the vibration just bugged me. I started by replacing the drive belt and the tires. Got both new from Felder. Gluing on the new tires was not very difficult. No real improvement after this.
- I then swapped out the static phase converter for a rotary phase converter thinking maybe running on two phases was making the motor lumpy. It did not help.
- Next I marked the wheel quadrants and started methodically placing automotive wheels weights around the wheel. Used a vibration app on my cell phone to measure, record, and compare the various weight placements. (duct tape the weights in place during trials). I eventually reached optimium weight placements for both upper and lower wheels. Then riveted them in place. This helped.
- After six months or so I thought still to much vibration. I mean, it was small vibration but could not stand up a nickle for more than 10 seconds. okay, maybe I am a bit anal but the eyes did not like focusing on a tenon cut with the background doing a shimmy.
- In a conversation with Jeff at Northfield he had mentioned the importance of truing the tires, maybe more so than balancing. I can't find anybody to balance or true the tires for me so I get to thinking and the sandpaper square block pops to mind. I was hoping the saw back plate was sufficiently planar to the wheels to make this sanding block align correctly to the wheels. Actually I first tried to hand hold a palm sander in place while the wife turned the wheel. Not a good idea, can't maintain accurate position.?
- I created 3 x 3 x 3 square block. Put some magnets on the bottom. Stapled some 120 grit sandpaper to three sides. Used the sandpaper square block on both wheels. It's a slow process hand turning the wheels. I was not crazy enough to just turn the saw on. Thought about it, did not do it. Then i took off all the weights I had put on. Left on all original Felder weights.
- Now the vibration is greatly reduced. Can stand a nickle on the table as long as you want. I am calling it good.
- I am concluding my vibration problem was all about tires with high and low spots. Sanding the tires to concentric fixed it. The original tires were somewhat chewed up from saw teeth. The new tires had various glue thickness creating highs and lows.
Here are some pictures of the sanding block. I hand turned the wheel, now and then bumping the block back against the tire. It takes a while, the arms get tired, beer is helpful, but the tires ended up true and flat. I then put a slight shim to one bottom edge of the block to angle the block and repeated the process to create a crown. Jeff said a very slight crown is all you need, maybe? 1/2 to 1 degree.
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A brief recap:
- bought a used FB540. The previous owner had little time on it but the tires were somewhat chewed up on the outside edge from blade teeth. I did not know any better about this so I used the saw as is.
- After year or so the vibration just bugged me. I started by replacing the drive belt and the tires. Got both new from Felder. Gluing on the new tires was not very difficult. No real improvement after this.
- I then swapped out the static phase converter for a rotary phase converter thinking maybe running on two phases was making the motor lumpy. It did not help.
- Next I marked the wheel quadrants and started methodically placing automotive wheels weights around the wheel. Used a vibration app on my cell phone to measure, record, and compare the various weight placements. (duct tape the weights in place during trials). I eventually reached optimium weight placements for both upper and lower wheels. Then riveted them in place. This helped.
- After six months or so I thought still to much vibration. I mean, it was small vibration but could not stand up a nickle for more than 10 seconds. okay, maybe I am a bit anal but the eyes did not like focusing on a tenon cut with the background doing a shimmy.
- In a conversation with Jeff at Northfield he had mentioned the importance of truing the tires, maybe more so than balancing. I can't find anybody to balance or true the tires for me so I get to thinking and the sandpaper square block pops to mind. I was hoping the saw back plate was sufficiently planar to the wheels to make this sanding block align correctly to the wheels. Actually I first tried to hand hold a palm sander in place while the wife turned the wheel. Not a good idea, can't maintain accurate position.?
- I created 3 x 3 x 3 square block. Put some magnets on the bottom. Stapled some 120 grit sandpaper to three sides. Used the sandpaper square block on both wheels. It's a slow process hand turning the wheels. I was not crazy enough to just turn the saw on. Thought about it, did not do it. Then i took off all the weights I had put on. Left on all original Felder weights.
- Now the vibration is greatly reduced. Can stand a nickle on the table as long as you want. I am calling it good.
- I am concluding my vibration problem was all about tires with high and low spots. Sanding the tires to concentric fixed it. The original tires were somewhat chewed up from saw teeth. The new tires had various glue thickness creating highs and lows.
Here are some pictures of the sanding block. I hand turned the wheel, now and then bumping the block back against the tire. It takes a while, the arms get tired, beer is helpful, but the tires ended up true and flat. I then put a slight shim to one bottom edge of the block to angle the block and repeated the process to create a crown. Jeff said a very slight crown is all you need, maybe? 1/2 to 1 degree.
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Re: Mortising unit instructions
Be carful not to drop the connecting bolts in the body cavity you will be very sad trying to get them out!! Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 21, 2023, at 3:59 PM, Tim Perez <t.w.perez@...> wrote:
?Thank you Andy and Jonathan for your input. ?The diagram should prove useful. If I have some questions I may get back with you. ?Thanks again for advice and offer.?
Cheers, tim
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Re: Mortising unit instructions
Thank you Andy and Jonathan for your input. ?The diagram should prove useful. If I have some questions I may get back with you. ?Thanks again for advice and offer.?
Cheers, tim
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Re: Mortising unit instructions
Tim, I have a CF741.? I assembled and mounted without instructions.? It is very similar to the one in Andy's referenced video. I could send pics if that would help.? The main tip is the left hand threads in the chuck.? If you are interested, I have an extra new in the box transport unit that needs a home.? It is a pretty handy little cart that allows you to store the mortiser off the main machine and up against a wall somewhere. 
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Re: Interesting new 2-axis jointer
This brochure explains the Par. One vertical head and one horizontal doing straightening S4S in 2 passages.
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Jason Holtz
Tom Gensmer
Bill Belanger
Tim Perez
Jonathan Smith