Any oe know why they don't use keyways on those hings?
On 1/24/22 12:14 PM, imranindiana
wrote:
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Show quoted text
Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked
on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it
ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are
shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what
the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the
spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass
colored thing in the pic below.
I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw
online were for a specific task. Not only were they
expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions
of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all
specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12
point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may
only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It
took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding
of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too
bad.
Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from
the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of
pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in
line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up
and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of
the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times
skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy
to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder
with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to
the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins.
The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without
cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I
needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as
shown in pic above (red lines).
Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise
(6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to
remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube
around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws
instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method
my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel
bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was
wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these
steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed
attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held -
just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long
jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held
vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering
with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get
the?spanner nut loose.
Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a
spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip
43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So
I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for
38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My
neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my
might it came loose.
If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle
reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings
with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the
shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing -
presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true
for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router
spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer
6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the
bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased
is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did
this because they are widely available and the shield can be
removed easily with a pick tool.
However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded
bearing, more on this later.
This bearing has a limiting speed
rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM -
this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting
data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the
bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to
determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP
(Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not,
so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to
service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea
as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being
accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this
exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was
something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor
application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason
it came with that specific grease.
Anyhow, old bearings came off
very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while
snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the
spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor
freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.?
?Here
are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield
removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove
the top bearing.?
I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon
scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There
were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came
off easily.
I had several options to install the bearings but I chose
to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside)
overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F
in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down
and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no
drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both
bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd
bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried
placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer
for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching
the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a
little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop
his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the
bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press.
It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the
press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application
called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing
would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below
are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper
spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing -
grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the
spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally,
a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is
about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.
I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top
locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think
still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might
as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a
month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or
update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do
this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be
desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for
advice on this process.
Imran
|
Hi Michael,
Yes, I can do that.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 24, 2022, at 12:52 PM, Michael Garrison Stuber <mtgstuber@...> wrote: ?
Nice write up Imran.? Thank you.
Would you consider printing this to a PDF and posting it to the
files section?
--Michael Garrison Stuber
On 1/24/2022 9:14 AM, imranindiana
wrote:
Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked
on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it
ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are
shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what
the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the
spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass
colored thing in the pic below.
I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw
online were for a specific task. Not only were they
expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions
of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all
specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12
point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may
only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It
took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding
of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too
bad.
Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from
the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of
pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in
line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up
and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of
the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times
skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy
to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder
with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to
the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins.
The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without
cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I
needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as
shown in pic above (red lines).
Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise
(6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to
remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube
around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws
instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method
my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel
bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was
wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these
steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed
attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held -
just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long
jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held
vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering
with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get
the?spanner nut loose.
Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a
spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip
43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So
I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for
38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My
neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my
might it came loose.
If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle
reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings
with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the
shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing -
presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true
for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router
spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer
6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the
bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased
is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did
this because they are widely available and the shield can be
removed easily with a pick tool.
However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded
bearing, more on this later.
This bearing has a limiting speed
rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM -
this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting
data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the
bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to
determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP
(Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not,
so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to
service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea
as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being
accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this
exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was
something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor
application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason
it came with that specific grease.
Anyhow, old bearings came off
very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while
snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the
spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor
freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.?
?Here
are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield
removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove
the top bearing.?
I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon
scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There
were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came
off easily.
I had several options to install the bearings but I chose
to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside)
overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F
in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down
and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no
drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both
bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd
bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried
placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer
for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching
the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a
little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop
his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the
bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press.
It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the
press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application
called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing
would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below
are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper
spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing -
grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the
spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally,
a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is
about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.
I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top
locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think
still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might
as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a
month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or
update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do
this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be
desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for
advice on this process.
Imran
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Nice write up Imran.? Thank you.
Would you consider printing this to a PDF and posting it to the
files section?
--Michael Garrison Stuber
On 1/24/2022 9:14 AM, imranindiana
wrote:
Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked
on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it
ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are
shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what
the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the
spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass
colored thing in the pic below.
I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw
online were for a specific task. Not only were they
expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions
of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all
specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12
point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may
only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It
took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding
of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too
bad.
Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from
the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of
pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in
line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up
and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of
the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times
skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy
to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder
with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to
the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins.
The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without
cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I
needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as
shown in pic above (red lines).
Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise
(6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to
remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube
around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws
instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method
my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel
bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was
wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these
steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed
attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held -
just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long
jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held
vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering
with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get
the?spanner nut loose.
Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a
spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip
43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So
I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for
38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My
neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my
might it came loose.
If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle
reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings
with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the
shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing -
presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true
for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router
spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer
6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the
bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased
is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did
this because they are widely available and the shield can be
removed easily with a pick tool.
However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded
bearing, more on this later.
This bearing has a limiting speed
rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM -
this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting
data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the
bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to
determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP
(Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not,
so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to
service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea
as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being
accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this
exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was
something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor
application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason
it came with that specific grease.
Anyhow, old bearings came off
very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while
snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the
spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor
freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.?
?Here
are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield
removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove
the top bearing.?
I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon
scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There
were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came
off easily.
I had several options to install the bearings but I chose
to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside)
overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F
in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down
and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no
drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both
bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd
bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried
placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer
for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching
the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a
little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop
his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the
bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press.
It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the
press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application
called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing
would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below
are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper
spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing -
grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the
spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally,
a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is
about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.
I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top
locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think
still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might
as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a
month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or
update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do
this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be
desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for
advice on this process.
Imran
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
James, I like your two piece design. Inevitably, the ZCI will need to be replaced (I¡¯ve needed to shim mine several times over the course of about 18 months).
Fred, I am interested how you go with your design. My first started out similar, and I found that it was too high to permit the blade shroud to be low, which meant that the blade remained high (if you want to use the shroud). Do you have a way around this?
Regards from Perth
Derek
|
Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass colored thing in the pic below.
I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw online were for a specific task. Not only were they expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12 point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too bad.
Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins. The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as shown in pic above (red lines).
Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise (6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held - just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get the?spanner nut loose.
Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip 43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for 38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my might it came loose.
If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing - presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer 6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did this because they are widely available and the shield can be removed easily with a pick tool. However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded bearing, more on this later.
This bearing has a limiting speed rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM - this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP (Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not, so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason it came with that specific grease.
Anyhow, old bearings came off very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.? ?Here are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove the top bearing.?
I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came off easily.
I had several options to install the bearings but I chose to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside) overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press. It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing - grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally, a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.
I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for advice on this process.
Imran
|
Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
Looks great to me. Off the shelf parts for the motor and drive and such? What did you use for the pivot post?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks...it was a proof of concept, and I was planning to "pretty" it up a bit, but it works perfectly so I never got around to modifying it. ?With the air cylinder fully extended, the wheel is 1/16" away from the blade...this way I can cut my 1/8" strips. ?No foot switch...but that is a good idea.
|
For my bent lamination projects - chairs, primarily - I rip on the bandsaw (using the 3/4" Trimaster blade). The full process continues, as I smooth the cut-edge on the jointer, the return to the bandsaw for the next rip. In this manner, I always have a smooth edge against the rip fence and only one surface needs smoothing prior to glue-up.
Take Care.
Mike D.
On Monday, January 24, 2022, 09:41:54 AM EST, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
In the middle of a cut on bandsaw walk away with saw running com back and finish . Try that on a table saw Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 24, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via groups.io <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
? I rip lumber on the band saw.? Ply and sheet stock can be rippedanywhere.? I've never? heard of it closeing on the? blade. Certainly?hasn't happened to me.The advantages: Smaller Kerf, Never a care about kickback, Great DC, Ican rip thicker,? and it is faster.I eschew all those safety gizmos? that people festoon their sliders andtable saws with.? Can't stand 'em ? Never could.It as been my? experience that? Lumber whether kiln or air dried canmove. My first and only kickback was maybe 40 years ago on a cheesycraftsman TS. I was making the neck for a Guitar from English Walnut.Big piece of wood but that 0.75HP motor still manged to throw it atme.?? It was then I took to the habit of dropping wedges into the cut?on the lee side of the blade.Recently? I've been working? 2" thick Black Walnut for a 9 foot table.?It had been been sitting 5 years in a barn. It still moves.? I got allmy pieces squared jointed and planed and? got called away for a littlewhile and when I came back all the pieces had changed shape..On 1/23/22 11:58 AM, imranindiana wrote:?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?
I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.
There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.
Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?
Imran
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Mike D.
Annapolis, MD
AD951; K700S; N4400
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In the middle of a cut on bandsaw walk away with saw running com back and finish . Try that on a table saw Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 24, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via groups.io <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
? I rip lumber on the band saw.? Ply and sheet stock can be rippedanywhere.? I've never? heard of it closeing on the? blade. Certainly?hasn't happened to me.The advantages: Smaller Kerf, Never a care about kickback, Great DC, Ican rip thicker,? and it is faster.I eschew all those safety gizmos? that people festoon their sliders andtable saws with.? Can't stand 'em ? Never could.It as been my? experience that? Lumber whether kiln or air dried canmove. My first and only kickback was maybe 40 years ago on a cheesycraftsman TS. I was making the neck for a Guitar from English Walnut.Big piece of wood but that 0.75HP motor still manged to throw it atme.?? It was then I took to the habit of dropping wedges into the cut?on the lee side of the blade.Recently? I've been working? 2" thick Black Walnut for a 9 foot table.?It had been been sitting 5 years in a barn. It still moves.? I got allmy pieces squared jointed and planed and? got called away for a littlewhile and when I came back all the pieces had changed shape..On 1/23/22 11:58 AM, imranindiana wrote:?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?
I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.
There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.
Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?
Imran
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I rip lumber on the band saw.? Ply and sheet stock can be ripped
anywhere.? I've never? heard of it closeing on the? blade. Certainly?
hasn't happened to me.
The advantages: Smaller Kerf, Never a care about kickback, Great DC, I
can rip thicker,? and it is faster.
I eschew all those safety gizmos? that people festoon their sliders and
table saws with.? Can't stand 'em ? Never could.
It as been my? experience that? Lumber whether kiln or air dried can
move. My first and only kickback was maybe 40 years ago on a cheesy
craftsman TS. I was making the neck for a Guitar from English Walnut.
Big piece of wood but that 0.75HP motor still manged to throw it at
me.?? It was then I took to the habit of dropping wedges into the cut?
on the lee side of the blade.
Recently? I've been working? 2" thick Black Walnut for a 9 foot table.?
It had been been sitting 5 years in a barn. It still moves.? I got all
my pieces squared jointed and planed and? got called away for a little
while and when I came back all the pieces had changed shape.
.
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On 1/23/22 11:58 AM, imranindiana wrote: ?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?
I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.
There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.
Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?
Imran
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Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
? Here is another example for you
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On Jan 24, 2022, at 8:27 AM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Wade,
Check David Best's post ().?
I did based on David Best's post using wood before. Yesterday, I modified mine to make the bottom piece replabale, also screwed the vertical 3/4" plywood into the 30mm x 30mm wood block.  
James
Hello group,
I¡¯m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence.? It¡¯s the heavier duty cross cut fence that you find on the Format saws.
Thank you,
Wade
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Thanks for the feedback. Seems it is more of a preference as the safety advantage, I think, has minimized with riving knife, slider and clamps - excluding specific cases mentioned in the OP. I do prefer lower noise of the bandsaw over the table saw. Perhaps I should look for opportunities to rip on the bandsaw.
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On Jan 23, 2022, at 12:05 PM, Jarrett Maxwell <j.a.max7@...> wrote: ? Hey Imran,?
I rip exclusively on the band saw unless I'm trying to straight line lumber. Every board goes to the jointer regardless of where I rip. The band saw never kicks back and has better dust collection since my slider doesn't have overhead dust collection.?
I've been doing it this way for about 12 years now and definitely prefer it over standard ripping at the table saw.?
Have a great day!?
Jarrett Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?
I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.
There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.
Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?
Imran
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Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Wade,
Check David Best's post ().?
I did based on David Best's post using wood before. Yesterday, I modified mine to make the bottom piece replabale, also screwed the vertical 3/4" plywood into the 30mm x 30mm wood block.  
James
Hello group,
I¡¯m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence.? It¡¯s the heavier duty cross cut fence that you find on the Format saws.
Thank you,
Wade
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Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Hello group,
I¡¯m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence. ?It¡¯s the heavier duty cross cut fence that you find on the Format saws.
Thank you,
Wade
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Re: Hammer A3-31 Table Flatness
#hammer
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for your comment. Indeed I forgot the most important part... my problem is the following:
When jointing narrow stock, say 2~3 inches wide, everything works reasonably well near both edges of the tables, but in the center I get snipe. For lack of a better explanation I attribute this to the recess in the outfeed table, which is 0.25~0.3mm. I have not yet measured if this difference is consistent with the depth of the snipe. I will check this later today...
Best regards,
Michael
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Re: Cabinet Lift Recommendations
As an alternative - You can also use a lift table such as Felder Fat300 or Barth - You¡¯ll need to make a box to put between the table top and the cabinet to increse the max lift height of the table. Barth has a fine video showing exactly this?
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Regards,
Mikkel
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Re: Hammer A3-31 Table Flatness
#hammer
On 21-1-2022 16:44, Michael Kraus via groups.io wrote: Hi all,
I have an issue with my A3-31 regarding table flatness. This seems to be a repeating topic, but I could not really find a solution. I adjusted the machine following the various tutorials and could get the tables into good alignment. However there remains an issue with table flatness, specifically that both tables are concave near the cutter head, although they are rather straight further outside. Already about 20cm away from the cutter head, the tables are reasonably flat. I filled out David Best¡®s table flatness sheet and attached it below. Caution: all values are in mm. I don't think the flatness of the table is a problem until it affects your result after jointing/planing. You don't mention why you started to investigate this. Do you get good results using the machine? Regards, Jonathan
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
I modified mine using scrap BB plywood? (as you can see some finish was left on it) today, the 1/2" plywood can be easily replaced, it is screwed into the vertical 3/4" plywood.
?  
James
On Sun, Jan 23, 2022 at 11:50 PM PK < pk@...> wrote: Just wanted to confirm that Bill's Blue sacrificial crosscut fence end does indeed work perfectly on my kappa 400 x-motion analog (for now) crosscut fence!
See attached pics!? I did need to adjust the supports for the outrigger cart so that the "splitter tongue" would not drag on the ground if left on the outrigger.
PK 
PK
PKwoodworking
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Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
there are lots of machine opinions and a lot depends on personal preference rather than what is better.? I'm a cast iron saw guy.? I like the way a cast iron bandsaw absorbs vibration yet uses a lighter upper wheel vs the new saw approach that blends a
heavy cast iron wheel with a steel frame.? The wheel compensates for the frame somewhat.? Most of the old cast iron saws that had the beef to resaw were 30 or 36".? New saws can do that at 24" although I've always liked the 28" steel saws.? Large table and
very stout frame.? Others here get very great results with a 1 carbide blade tensioned to 15000 lbs which is about the limit on a 610.? I like higher tension but it may be just that I have fast running 6700fpm blades and tend to push them hard.
I tend to buy used and larger saws are where the bargains are.? I liked the old Centauro steel saws at 24" and the ACM heavy series at 28".? They run? similar to the cast iron machines I'm used to due to mass and frame strength.? Doesn't make them better for
everyone, just for me.? I have the room for big stuff and the only machines that have disappointed me are the smaller, lighter ones so I tend to like what works for me.? In fairness I have not seen an FB in several years.? The earlier ones didn't impress me
much but Felder tends to improve with time so that impression is likely not valid any more.? Dave
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Greg Mix,?
Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experience and thoughts. I too am working in a home shop (~700 sq-ft), and while I'm not necessarily a furniture maker, I certainly perform a lot of random tasks. It seems that we have a similar assessment
of the machines, in that, other than a slightly wider rip capacity and slightly larger table, the 610 doesn't seem to be meaningfully different from the 510, other than perhaps larger, heavier wheels and greater overall mass. For my predicted needs I don't
necessarily think I'd need that, but that's why I'm asking the group and not just going forward with assumptions.?
David Kumm, can you articulate the benefits of opting for a larger saw, if the resaw capacity is generally the same (most machines in this class hover between 14"-16")? Do the larger saws just have larger rip capacity, or do the larger wheels convey other benefits?
?I know several users here have 32"+ machines, but I don't seem anything like that fitting in my current space. Given that I can't fit a 30"+ machine, is there going to be a meaningful difference between a 20" and a 24" machine??
The Laguna LT18 Resaw Master looks like a monster, accepting at 2" blade, but I just don't see myself needing that kind of capacity:??
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Just wanted to confirm that Bill's Blue sacrificial crosscut fence end does indeed work perfectly on my kappa 400 x-motion analog (for now) crosscut fence! See attached pics!? I did need to adjust the supports for the outrigger cart so that the "splitter tongue" would not drag on the ground if left on the outrigger. PK   PK PKwoodworking
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Re: Kappa 550 x motion problems
I don¡¯t have the fancy linear rollers System with dissimilar materials just hard ways and hard balls in my old SCMI I occasionally wipe down my ways with this product and works great, ?i have used with fine success on Felder systems ,,wipe on wipe off method. I also use it with my band saw when cutting bars of 2.5¡±x 4¡±6061T603. Squirts a dab in the kerf and I get a lot more out of my Japanese blades. mac ,,,
Designing and building for 52 years
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On Jan 23, 2022, at 9:43 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
My question is..How do you clean it out of the bearings that are buried in the rolling table? it's not like they are exposed for easy access or cleaning
On Sunday, January 23, 2022, 07:28:41 AM PST, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
Guess I will stop using it, wonder if maybe because I never used anything else it didn¡¯t gum up, maybe it binds or doesn¡¯t fully dissolve other previous lubricants. On Jan 22, 2022, at 8:50 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Just curious, who is Felder listening to when specifying Ballistol. I almost bought it a yr or 2 ago when it was mentioned here; can¡¯t recall for what purpose.
Imran
On Jan 22, 2022, at 8:37 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Yes, in my case. ?The? Ballistol?collected enough of the bearing cage to be a dust magnet and began to run rough. ?I don¡¯t have the same remote start system as you have or the 550 OP. ?Mine is the older version that does not send any electrical signals through the sliding table. ?But the dust being collected on the bearing cage was causing issues within a few days, so I cleaned it all up with kerosene and denatured alcohol which was a total PITA. ?I do use a white Scotch-Brite pad () with WD-40 for routine cleaning of the slider ways as well as the telescoping support arm for the outrigger table to get the sawdust that gets pressed into the rollers out of that mechanism. ? I have not had issues (yet) i have used it 2-3 times on the slides but i wipe it completely off , Brian, David os that what you did and it still gummed up? ?Interesting, the rep said to apply with a white 3m pad. He also said denatured alcohol would work in the interim. Have others had this contact issue with the slider switch?
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imran
Jonathan Martens
PK