Hi Jonathan,

Thanks for your comment. Indeed I forgot the most important part... my problem is the following:

When jointing narrow stock, say 2~3 inches wide, everything works reasonably well near both edges of the tables, but in the center I get snipe. For lack of a better explanation I attribute this to the recess in the outfeed table, which is 0.25~0.3mm. I have not yet measured if this difference is consistent with the depth of the snipe. I will check this later today...

Best regards,
Michael

On Jan 24, 2022, at 4:59 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:

?

Mac, how does the Bauerle JP work now?? Dave

---

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...>
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2022 4:48 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Cabinet Lift Recommendations

?

Few other options?

This is a Genie Lift I use at home and around the shop, here I used to set up a crane I built to lift tables on my Okoma HCH 630 to lift the tables know part of the machine . Tables are way to heavy to lift but just a push of a button know.?

The Genie-has a lift of about 8’ and 400#.?

I have another 500# cap. That is single mast and will lift to 20’.

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

airtightclamps@...

Designing and building for 50 years

On Jan 24, 2022, at 4:05 AM, mikkel@... wrote:

?As an alternative - You can also use a lift table such as Felder Fat300 or Barth - You’ll need to make a box to put between the table top and the cabinet to increse the max lift height of the table. Barth has a fine video showing exactly this?
--
Regards,

Mikkel

On Jan 24, 2022, at 4:05 AM, mikkel@... wrote:

?As an alternative - You can also use a lift table such as Felder Fat300 or Barth - You’ll need to make a box to put between the table top and the cabinet to increse the max lift height of the table. Barth has a fine video showing exactly this?
--
Regards,

Mikkel

Well armed with advice from FOG experts, I embarked on rebuilding my router spindle. I had acquired it used and it ran very hot and had a tinny sound. Suspecting that bearings are shot, I decided to replace them. For starters this is what the?spindle looks like and the first job is to remove the spanner nut holding the bottom bearing assembly. It is the brass colored thing in the pic below.

I am sure one can buy a proper socket but most I saw online were for a specific task. Not only were they expensive,?they also?did?not provide the?detailed dimensions of features. I was not sure if I would find one that met all specifications so I decided to just make one. 1-5/16" 12 point socket was the best candidate. Be aware that you may only find sockets that take a 3/4" wrench in this?size. It took about an hour to?make it, which included final?grinding of pin?sides and pin thickness for proper?fit, so not too bad.

Following is the process I used. I scribed a line from the socket?end 9mm down around the circumference - depth of pins. Then I cut painters tape in 5mm width and placed it in line of the inside hollow of one of the 12 point, then up and over the end to the outside. This created the shape of the pin I needed. Then repeated the same thing 3 more times skipping 2 hollows. The 12 point socket made it really easy to locate the pins at 90 deg to each other. Using grinder with cuttoff?wheel, I cut on each side of the blue tape to the scribe line and then along the scribe line between pins. The cutoff wheel was too large to complete this cut without cutting into the pins so I finished with dremel. Finally, I needed to grind the inside high spots between 12 points as shown in pic above (red lines).

Various attempts failed to secure the spindle in my vise (6" long jaws), where it would not turn while attempting to remove the?spanner nut. I even wrapped an old bike tube around the two collars. I was told that I needed proper jaws instead of my homemade wood liners but in the end the method my neighbor came up with worked like a charm. He cut steel bar that would fit in the slots of the lower collar but was wider than the slot depth. Vise just clamped onto these steel bars and that worked. Here are a few pics of my failed attempts?and a facsimile?of how it was successfully held - just imagine the right pic upside down. Also the 8" long jaws of neighbor's vice allowed for the spindle to be held vertically on one end of the vice jaws without interfering with the vice itself. We had to use an impact wrench?to get the?spanner nut loose.

Next step was to loosen?the top nut. I could not find a spanner wrench specifically for 44mm - McMaster offerings skip 43-44mm but does offer one for 1 3/4" with a pin, not hook. So I purchased the set shown below and the smallest wrench is for 38-42mm. I first tried a dead blow hammer but no luck. My neighbor had a pipe that went over the wrench and with all my might it came loose.

If you did not know, the bearings on the router spindle reside in a casing. It was recommended that I get bearings with C3 clearance because, I think, the concern is that the shaper spindle casting clamps on the outside of the bearing - presumably resulting in reduced clearance. While this is true for the 30mm and 1.25" spindles it is not for the router spindle. I did get mine with C3 clearance (SKF Explorer 6006-2Z/C3GJN) and I can actually feel the movement in the bearings, so I hope they will be okay. The bearing I purchased is shielded - 2Z, on the bearing PN, signifies this. I did this because they are widely available and the shield can be removed easily with a pick tool. However, there can be other?issues buying a shielded bearing, more on this later.

This bearing has a limiting speed rating of 17K RPM and reference speed rating of 28K RPM - this was confirmed by calling SKF as I found conflicting data on their own websites.?I noted after purchasing the bearing that it has polyurea grease and contacted SKF to determine if it is compatible with the lithium complex EP (Shell Gadus S3 V220C 2) grease I currently use. It is not, so my choice was to clean it out completely or continue to service with polyurea grease. I chose to stay with polyurea as it is supposedly a newer grease that is widely being accepted for certain applications. I learned a lot with this exercise. Although I tried to be thorough, the grease was something I never thought about. This bearing is for motor application. It is shielded and I believe that is the reason it came with that specific grease.

Anyhow, old bearings came off very easily with a puller. So easy that I saw them move while snugging?up the puller, so I did not need to secure the spindle in the vice. Oh, bought a 3 pc puller set from harbor freight for $25 and used the?6" puller.?

?Here are pics of a bare spindle, new bearing with one shield removed, bearing case halves and the puller in place to remove the top bearing.?

I cleaned the bearing surfaces on the shaft with maroon scotch brite and then polished with gray ultra fine. There were a couple of marks on the upper bearing surface that came off easily.

I had several options to install the bearings but I chose to place the shaft in the freezer (0F vs 18F outside) overnight. I progressively increased the bearing temp to 200F in the oven. Enlisted my wife to hold the spindle upside down and I installed the bottom bearing. It seated with aplomb - no drama,?quite a satisfying?experience. I had placed both bearings in the oven and was concerned about leaving the 2nd bearing in for too long (likely unfounded concern), so I tried placing the top bearing after the spindle was in the freezer for 45 mins. I noted that the bearing inner race was touching the threads on the spindle as I lowered it. Well it went in a little and got stuck. Earlier, I had asked my friend to drop his bearing press as a backup, so I proceeded to remove the bearing with the puller and then installed it using the press. It went super easy and after this experience, I would use the press versus messing with hot/cold, unless the application called for it. I guess I will never know if the top bearing would have gone in had I cooled the spindle thoroughly. Below are?pics showing the bearing being pressed. BTW, the shaper spacer rings work well for pressing on top of the bearing - grease zerks not yet installed to provide clearance for the spacer rings. Pic of spindle with bearings installed. Finally, a close up of the assembled bearing case showing that there is about 3/16" space for the grease to escape.

I decided to replace the top and bottom locknuts. Top locknut was damaged due to my exuberant hammering (I think still usable). Bottom one was okay but was under $5 so might as well. Felder only had the bottom one in stock so will be a month before I see it. If there is any significant learning or update I will add to this thread. I hope anyone needing to do this in future will find this info useful. Should more info be desired, I have added links to FOG threads where I asked for advice on this process.

/g/felderownersgroup/message/118552

/g/felderownersgroup/message/120462

Imran

On Jan 23, 2022, at 4:49 PM, joe_tedesco via <joe_tedesco@...> wrote:

Thanks...it was a proof of concept, and I was planning to "pretty" it up a bit, but it works perfectly so I never got around to modifying it. ?With the air cylinder fully extended, the wheel is 1/16" away from the blade...this way I can cut my 1/8" strips. ?No foot switch...but that is a good idea.

On Jan 24, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via groups.io <rohrabacher@...> wrote:

?I rip lumber on the band saw.? Ply and sheet stock can be ripped
anywhere.? I've never? heard of it closeing on the? blade. Certainly?
hasn't happened to me.

The advantages: Smaller Kerf, Never a care about kickback, Great DC, I
can rip thicker,? and it is faster.

I eschew all those safety gizmos? that people festoon their sliders and
table saws with.? Can't stand 'em ? Never could.

It as been my? experience that? Lumber whether kiln or air dried can
move. My first and only kickback was maybe 40 years ago on a cheesy
craftsman TS. I was making the neck for a Guitar from English Walnut.
Big piece of wood but that 0.75HP motor still manged to throw it at
me.?? It was then I took to the habit of dropping wedges into the cut?
on the lee side of the blade.

Recently? I've been working? 2" thick Black Walnut for a 9 foot table.?
It had been been sitting 5 years in a barn. It still moves.? I got all
my pieces squared jointed and planed and? got called away for a little
while and when I came back all the pieces had changed shape.


.


On 1/23/22 11:58 AM, imranindiana wrote:

?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?

I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.

There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.

Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?

Imran

On Jan 24, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via groups.io <rohrabacher@...> wrote:

?I rip lumber on the band saw.? Ply and sheet stock can be ripped
anywhere.? I've never? heard of it closeing on the? blade. Certainly?
hasn't happened to me.

The advantages: Smaller Kerf, Never a care about kickback, Great DC, I
can rip thicker,? and it is faster.

I eschew all those safety gizmos? that people festoon their sliders and
table saws with.? Can't stand 'em ? Never could.

It as been my? experience that? Lumber whether kiln or air dried can
move. My first and only kickback was maybe 40 years ago on a cheesy
craftsman TS. I was making the neck for a Guitar from English Walnut.
Big piece of wood but that 0.75HP motor still manged to throw it at
me.?? It was then I took to the habit of dropping wedges into the cut?
on the lee side of the blade.

Recently? I've been working? 2" thick Black Walnut for a 9 foot table.?
It had been been sitting 5 years in a barn. It still moves.? I got all
my pieces squared jointed and planed and? got called away for a little
while and when I came back all the pieces had changed shape.


.


On 1/23/22 11:58 AM, imranindiana wrote:

?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?

I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.

There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.

Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?

Imran

?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?

I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.

There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.

Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?

Imran

On Jan 24, 2022, at 8:27 AM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:

?

Wade,

Check David Best's post ().?

I did based on David Best's post using wood before. Yesterday, I modified mine to make the bottom piece replabale, also screwed the vertical 3/4" plywood into the 30mm x 30mm wood block.

James

On Mon, Jan 24, 2022 at 8:19 AM <wjdsignature@...> wrote:

Hello group,

I’m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence.? It’s the heavier duty cross cut fence that you find on the Format saws.

Thank you,

Wade