Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
You all might want to measure from the end of the fence extrusion to the blade first, seems some folks are saying their unit is not 1 5/8¡±, so that might have to vary.
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Bill: ?Add me in for a couple; I will pass on the fingers addition and am not picky on the color as long as it is a ¡°perfect¡± Felder green (just joshing on the color). ?Terry On Jan 10, 2022, at 4:26 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well.
What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
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Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
I have received several shipments from felder - some with damaged crating but most without.? They were always good to work with and very helpful - while i know there are horror stories it just wasnt my experience ¡. Although nothing of mine looked like the picture David posted!!
On Mon, Jan 10, 2022 at 7:26 PM < tom@...> wrote: [Edited Message Follows]
KRP,?
Regarding your question about inspecting at the terminal, I'll copy and paste again the explicit instructions from Felder regarding receiving goods:?
Taking the time needed to properly inspect your freight is extremely important and your responsibility.?Before signing and taking possession, you MUST remove BOTH layers of plastic (outer shrink wrap and yellow inner) to properly inspect for concealed damage.? If you see damage, call Lewis at 866-792-5288 x402 or my cell (Redacted) and we will direct you accordingly.? If you're not sure, it's better to refuse delivery so we can hold the freight company responsible and NOT involve you in the claims process.? If you accept a machine with damage, your full cooperation in the claims process is required.? Not to scare you, just caution you.? When handled properly, deliveries are smooth and cosmetic damage we can fix. ? ? ?
So, if a customer signs for goods without inspection, and later discover damage, you can be ruthless and make all sorts of noise, but I'm sure Felder has all sorts of documentation shows the goods left their warehouse in good condition, and that you would be dealing with the shipping company, not a battle you're likely to win. Rejecting a delivery due to damage may end up yielding results faster than accepting damaged goods, then going through the claims process.?
Again, I've received multiple deliveries from Felder and they've all gone well, but I've unpacked each delivery prior to signing for it, as directed by Felder.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
--
--
Michael Marsico
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Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
KRP,?
Regarding your question about inspecting at the terminal, I'll copy and paste again the explicit instructions from Felder regarding receiving goods:?
Taking the time needed to properly inspect your freight is extremely important and your responsibility.?Before signing and taking possession, you MUST remove BOTH layers of plastic (outer shrink wrap and yellow inner) to properly inspect for concealed damage. ?If you see damage, call Lewis at 866-792-5288 x402 or my cell (Redacted) and we will direct you accordingly. ?If you're not sure, it's better to refuse delivery so we can hold the freight company responsible and NOT involve you in the claims process. ?If you accept a machine with damage, your full cooperation in the claims process is required. ?Not to scare you, just caution you. ?When handled properly, deliveries are smooth and cosmetic damage we can fix. ? ? ?
So, if a customer signs for goods without inspection, and later discover damage, you can be ruthless and make all sorts of noise, but I'm sure Felder has all sorts of documentation showing the goods left their warehouse in good condition, and that you would be dealing with the shipping company, not a battle you're likely to win. Rejecting a delivery due to damage may end up yielding results faster than accepting damaged goods, and then having to go through the claims process.?
I agree that "things happen", but once you've signed for damaged goods, you (the receiver) have, to some extent, taken things out of Felder's hands. It is the shipping company's responsibility to allow you to inspect the goods prior to signing, it is your responsibility to advocate for yourself prior to signing to make sure you're receiving goods in acceptable condition.?
Again, I've received multiple deliveries from Felder and they've all gone well, but I've unpacked each delivery prior to signing for it, as directed by Felder.?
(Edits: Redacted salesperson's cell #, added note about inspecting at shipping terminal prior to signing, apologies for multiple edits)
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Bill: ?Add me in for a couple; I will pass on the fingers addition and am not picky on the color as long as it is a ¡°perfect¡± Felder green (just joshing on the color). ?Terry
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On Jan 10, 2022, at 4:26 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well.
What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
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Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
Shimmdog, sorry for all your going through and thank you for sharing your experience.? Am expecting several pieces of equipment later this month including a K700S and your experience hits close to home...I would be furious after waiting so long to have the equipment arrived damaged.? Things happen and now its up to Felder to correct the problem and hopefully they get a new sliding table out to you within a reasonable amount of time---not 9 months..?
Jeff Roltgen hit the nail on the head in terms of approach...be ruthless and make a lot of noise and make sure Felder stays focused on it.? There are some comments about thoroughly inspecting the crate and removing some packaging material to inspect the equipment - is this to be done and is it normal/expected at the terminal?? Fearful that the kind folks at the terminal will just want to the load the crates on my delivery vehicle and not give time for inspection.
KRP
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Re: I need a little shaper help
Good idea, wax would work. The Castrol stick is kind of like beeswax, wintertime it¡¯s somewhat firm, and summer around here it¡¯s almost an oil. I use it to lube blades when I¡¯m cutting aluminum, drill bits, especially unibits when drilling sheet metal, and as an anti-seize when I¡¯m assembling things with nuts and bolts. I¡¯ve had the one stick for maybe 10-15 years and it¡¯s still less than half used up.
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As a general rule I have always avoided using oil or grease on anything above the table surface, fine adjuster screws excepted. For the spindle shaft collars and block bores a soft furniture wax, the type that dries applied with a cloth and then buffed off when dry to the Spindle and down the bores on a regular basis covers all of the bases. Stopping corrosion, provide lubrication and if kept to a minimum doesn't seem to collect a great deal of dust and small debris. I assume it is very similar in its behaviours to Brian's Castrol stick and will usually be to hand in the workshop.
That stuff is super sticky and thick, not sure it would be the easiest to work with and clean up after. A small tube of thinner grease, some engine oil, or like I posted, my favorite is the Castrol stick lubricant.
Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust. Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift? Glen?
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247?
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507?
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David. This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great. I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on.. Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247?
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507?
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via ??<mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: Glen Bet you won¡¯t do that again!! I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi All,?
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen?
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well.
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What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
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Re: I need a little shaper help
As a general rule I have always avoided using oil or grease on anything above the table surface, fine adjuster screws excepted.
For the spindle shaft collars and block bores a soft furniture wax, the type that dries applied with a cloth and then buffed off when dry to the Spindle and down the bores on a regular basis covers all of the bases.
Stopping corrosion, provide lubrication and if kept to a minimum doesn't seem to collect a great deal of dust and small debris.
I assume it is very similar in its behaviours to Brian's Castrol stick and will usually be to hand in the workshop.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That stuff is super sticky and thick, not sure it would be the easiest to work with and clean up after. A small tube of thinner grease, some engine oil, or like I posted, my favorite is the Castrol stick lubricant.
Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust.
Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift?
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247
Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road
????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David.
This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great.
I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on
i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on..
Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247
Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road
????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via
<mac512002= [email protected]> wrote:
Glen
Bet you won¡¯t do that again!!
I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
?Hi All,
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen
|
Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
That stuff is super sticky and thick, not sure it would be the easiest to work with and clean up after. A small tube of thinner grease, some engine oil, or like I posted, my favorite is the Castrol stick lubricant.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust. Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift? Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David. This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great. I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on.. Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: Glen Bet you won¡¯t do that again!! I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi All,
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Bill:
I'd like one too.? Let me know how to pay you.
Gary Pollard
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Re: I need a little shaper help
Glen and others I am NOT with Brian on this one, ?may be LPS 1 wiped on and off but NO grease. ? I all the time and shops that I have been around shapers and moulders I have never seen or heard of using any grease on spindles.? Clean and proper set up is the key. mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 9, 2022, at 11:06 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
? Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust. Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift? Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David. This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great. I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on.. Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: Glen Bet you won¡¯t do that again!! I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi All,
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust. Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift? Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David. This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great. I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on.. Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: Glen Bet you won¡¯t do that again!! I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi All,
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen
|
Re: Aftermarket Digital Rip Fence?
Rather than trying to convert the crosscut fence stop to a left-of-blade rip fence with some kind of square, I think you¡¯d be better off making a Fritz & Franz jig with movable stops, and captivating your material between the two F&F components. ?Steve Rowe has done a good video of this idea at the following link:
This is it in concept - it¡¯s what I use and I think of it as kind of a mini parallel fence setup:
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I use the rip fence for longer narrow work which seems like about half the time.? Fo me it is a major feature of the machine.
Sometimes i use a 12" triangle square against the x-cut fence and work piece for in between shape work pieces as insurance.? A longer squaring arm that rides in the face groove of x-cut fence and used the same measuring system as the x-cut stops might be handy.? I would be able to work to the left of the blade more often.
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Re: Aftermarket Digital Rip Fence?
You can order the digital crosscut fence system from Felder with an analog or a digital telescoping extension. ? The digital extension is detailed in this series: ?
David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jan 9, 2022, at 3:30 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? It doesn¡¯t, you use the stock Felder stop on the extension pull out. The DRO functions on the main portion of the fence.
On Jan 9, 2022, at 3:31 PM, Fred Rossi < fred@...> wrote:
Brian:
How does the DRO flipstop work on the Felder extension portion of the fence?
Fred Rossi On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 4:43 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Felder sells the DRO options at a reasonable price when ordering the saw that way, at least it used to be. I think the DRO option on the crosscut fence was $1300 or so, which is just a bit more than our option. We designed the DRO for those that didn¡¯t order it with the associated large fence extrusion and it¡¯s perfect for those situations.
On Jan 9, 2022, at 11:48 AM, Dan Gavrilyuk < dgwoodco@...> wrote:
Thanks for all the input on my questions. I¡¯m new to sliders so everyone else¡¯s experience is invaluable to make my purchase decisions.?
Regarding adding digital flip stops to the crosscut fence and auto rip to the build on my saw, my rep said it¡¯s too late in the process to make any changes. He did offer to potentially send me another customer¡¯s saw currently in the Delaware warehouse with almost identical build specs but including the precision miter index option. The one condition is that he is willing to accept my machine in April and I accept his machine now with the added miter index part.? Im on the fence about accepting the other machine with the added feature or wait another 3 months. What would you guys do in my situation??
My saw is a 7.5hp 3ph, 126¡± slide, 1500 outrigger, with overhead saw guard option. Since this is probably not my forever slider, I went with all manual controls to begin with. My thought process was that I will eventually be adding a Fiama DRO to the rip fence and one of Brian¡¯s crosscut flip stop DRO.? On Jan 9, 2022, at 12:17 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?And I have two threaded holes on the short edge, you could clamp a piece of bar across that edge that slides into the t-slot and then use set screws to push it tight and make it square as long as the fence itself is square.
A Parallel fence is another solution¡.
On Jan 9, 2022, at 10:10 AM, Bill Belanger < Bill@...> wrote:
Brian Lamb makes a huge square that you can use to get a square cut on long thin pieces. Bill Belanger
I use the rip fence for longer narrow work which seems like about half the time.? Fo me it is a major feature of the machine.
Sometimes i use a 12" triangle square against the x-cut fence and work piece for in between shape work pieces as insurance.? A longer squaring arm that rides in the face groove of x-cut fence and used the same measuring system as the x-cut stops might be handy.? I would be able to work to the left of the blade more often.
<dummyfile.0.part>
-- _____________________
Fred Rossi 617.905.6497
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Re: Aftermarket Digital Rip Fence?
Never mind, I found a few minutes this evening and was able to track down the parts diagram (see attached). I'd want to confirm with Felder parts before I ordered anything, but this shows most of what I think you'd need, not including the readout. Please note that this is for the 800mm rip capacity configuration, and you'd need different parts for the 1250mm rip package.?
In terms of cost, you'd be looking at something in the $1,800.00 range, based on a quote from mid-2020.?
I hope this helps!
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Aftermarket Digital Rip Fence?
Hi Dan!?
I'll sink my teeth into the e-mails with Felder tomorrow (Monday) and see what I can come up with.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Aftermarket Digital Rip Fence?
Tom, thank you for your input. I was told that the DRO on the rip fence was not able to be retrofitted aftermarket. Would you mind sharing the part numbers and the process on here or in a separate private email??
I would greatly appreciate that. Thanks?
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On Jan 9, 2022, at 7:24 PM, tom@... wrote:
?Hi Dan!?
My apologies for the late addition to this conversation. I recently received my KF700SP, and had a similar situation as you (second guessing all-analog), and here are my notes:
For the digital flip stops for crosscutting, I determined it would be most cost effective to use Brian Lamb's flip stops on my analog fence. That being said, I've been happy with my analog flip stops and can regularly nail measurements to better than 0.5mm (that's less than 1/32").?
For the rip fence, the mechanically driven rip fence can not be retrofitted. That being said, if you're just looking for the DRO, you can order the DRO parts from Felder and install them yourself. The Felder service department was really helpful in terms of helping my identify what parts I'd need to order to accomplish this. After using my saw for a year though, I'm finding that I'm happy with the analog fence.?
Again, for the work I'm performing, hitting measurements within 1/64"+/- is plenty accurate, and I have work-arounds for work requiring accuracy better than 1/64". It really depends on how you plan on using your machine. Hope this helps!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Aftermarket Digital Rip Fence?
Hi Dan!?
My apologies for the late addition to this conversation. I recently received my KF700SP, and had a similar situation as you (second guessing all-analog), and here are my notes:
For the digital flip stops for crosscutting, I determined it would be most cost effective to use Brian Lamb's flip stops on my analog fence. That being said, I've been happy with my analog flip stops and can regularly nail measurements to better than 0.5mm (that's less than 1/32").?
For the rip fence, the mechanically driven rip fence can not be retrofitted. That being said, if you're just looking for the DRO, you can order the DRO parts from Felder and install them yourself. The Felder service department was really helpful in terms of helping my identify what parts I'd need to order to accomplish this. After using my saw for a year though, I'm finding that I'm happy with the analog fence.?
Again, for the work I'm performing, hitting measurements within 1/64"+/- is plenty accurate, and I have work-arounds for work requiring accuracy better than 1/64". It really depends on how you plan on using your machine. Hope this helps!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: DPST required for On button remote switch for Hammer K3?
Hi Joe,
I guess it is possible that your machine has the switches in 220VAC circuit but ones in Felder are rated for even higher voltage.
Imran
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On Jan 9, 2022, at 6:30 PM, joe slater <joeslater4@...> wrote: ?Thanks everyone. ?I¡¯ll get my meters out and do some investigation. ?Worst case is I can use a multi-channel remote relay, which are pretty inexpensive. The Schneider Harmony approach is definitely robust and elegant, but looks to be well over $500 in parts. ?
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Tom Gensmer
David P. Best
Dan Gavrilyuk
imran