Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Would it make sense to just run it long and trim once installed?? This would give a true zero clearance.?
Fred Rossi
On Tue, Jan 11, 2022 at 10:29 AM Michael Rector < mrector23@...> wrote: Brian,
How about remodeling the STL to be too long and then when people print, they can do a modifier on the print settings and print just the extension part of it with 90-95% infill and just cut to length?
-- _____________________
Fred Rossi 617.905.6497
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
What should the final dimension be Erwin? I don¡¯t have a saw to test it on. Should the step be the same length as the DRO model Brian? Thanks? Bill Belanger
Yes I printed mine and found it was about one half inch tooo short of the blade.?? I will half to glue on and addition.?? Elwin ? Sent from for Windows ? ? You all might want to measure from the end of the fence extrusion to the blade first, seems some folks are saying their unit is not 1 5/8¡±, so that might have to vary. ? ? Bill: ?Add me in for a couple; I will pass on the fingers addition and am not picky on the color as long as it is a ¡°perfect¡± Felder green (just joshing on the color).? Terry
On Jan 10, 2022, at 4:26 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well. ? ? What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
?
?
?
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Brian,
How about remodeling the STL to be too long and then when people print, they can do a modifier on the print settings and print just the extension part of it with 90-95% infill and just cut to length?
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
If you want to measure as best you can to the blade, I can create the STL files for different lengths, the 1 5/8¡± would be too long by David Best measurements, but obviously not all machines are the same. If we could get a consensus of the dimension, I can post different STL files for different lengths. That way you aren¡¯t trying to glue or screw extensions on.
This is why I didn¡¯t want to get involved in printing them for folks¡. :-)
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Yes I printed mine and found it was about one half inch tooo short of the blade.?? I will half to glue on and addition.??? Elwin ? Sent from??for Windows ? ? You all might want to measure from the end of the fence extrusion to the blade first, seems some folks are saying their unit is not 1 5/8¡±, so that might have to vary. ? ? Bill: ?Add me in for a couple; I will pass on the fingers addition and am not picky on the color as long as it is a ¡°perfect¡± Felder green (just joshing on the color). ?Terry
On Jan 10, 2022, at 4:26 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well. ? ? What plastic type do you recommend printing it in??
?
?
? <5EF86A8BD4054A9491998681EF925C82.png>
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Yes I printed mine and found it was about one half inch tooo short of the blade.?? I will half to glue on and addition.?? Elwin ? Sent from for Windows ?
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From: Brian LambSent: January 10, 2022 6:58 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences ? You all might want to measure from the end of the fence extrusion to the blade first, seems some folks are saying their unit is not 1 5/8¡±, so that might have to vary. ? ? Bill: ?Add me in for a couple; I will pass on the fingers addition and am not picky on the color as long as it is a ¡°perfect¡± Felder green (just joshing on the color). ?Terry
On Jan 10, 2022, at 4:26 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well. ? ? What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
?
?
?
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Tooling and Machinery for sale (UK)
I have a number of item that are surplus or finishing rebuild / refurbishment and would like to give list members 1st opportunity before I list them elsewhere.
1 no 200mm 8" Whitehill tenoning disc 30mm bore used a couple of times but I have decided to go down a size and not buy a tenoning hood
Block only no cutters ?80 including P & P
Felder FB450 bandsaw currently 3 phase with mechanical brake but I am offering the option of fitting a digital phase converter if single phase is required as an extra.
Machine has had a full strip down and is completing re-build with new belt and bearings.
This machine is heavier than the current Hammer 440 and will be in ex works condition apart from some chips and scratches to the paintwork
Available for collection end of Jan.
Guide price ?1250 3 phase circa ?1650 with conversion to single phase.
additional option for pre fitting of F rails for extension tables POA
Felder BF6-31 Single Phase (1996 machine with S coupling) 6ft Sliding table, including rolling carriage (30mm spindle shaft)
This machine is completing a full nut and bolt mechanical strip down and rebuild with all new belts and bearings, hoses etc.
Full electrical refurbishment is in progress as the previous owner managed to blow the saw motor by running it continuously.
This machine is not a unicorn that has been sat in a workshop unused apart from being polished on a Sunday afternoon it has been for commercial use.?
That being said the last owner only used it as a panel saw for the last 10-15 years, the spindle moulder shows almost no signs of use and the planner similarly appears to have had little hard use.
Machine will be back to Ex works factory condition when complete.
This machine is due for completion by the end of March
Guide price ?4995 dependent on customer requirements.
S coupling power feed mount (no gas strut) Pre owned but doesn't show any signs of use.
?225 collection preferred Postage extra.
Regards
Paul
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
You all might want to measure from the end of the fence extrusion to the blade first, seems some folks are saying their unit is not 1 5/8¡±, so that might have to vary.
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Bill: ?Add me in for a couple; I will pass on the fingers addition and am not picky on the color as long as it is a ¡°perfect¡± Felder green (just joshing on the color). ?Terry On Jan 10, 2022, at 4:26 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well.
What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
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Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
I have received several shipments from felder - some with damaged crating but most without.? They were always good to work with and very helpful - while i know there are horror stories it just wasnt my experience ¡. Although nothing of mine looked like the picture David posted!!
On Mon, Jan 10, 2022 at 7:26 PM < tom@...> wrote: [Edited Message Follows]
KRP,?
Regarding your question about inspecting at the terminal, I'll copy and paste again the explicit instructions from Felder regarding receiving goods:?
Taking the time needed to properly inspect your freight is extremely important and your responsibility.?Before signing and taking possession, you MUST remove BOTH layers of plastic (outer shrink wrap and yellow inner) to properly inspect for concealed damage.? If you see damage, call Lewis at 866-792-5288 x402 or my cell (Redacted) and we will direct you accordingly.? If you're not sure, it's better to refuse delivery so we can hold the freight company responsible and NOT involve you in the claims process.? If you accept a machine with damage, your full cooperation in the claims process is required.? Not to scare you, just caution you.? When handled properly, deliveries are smooth and cosmetic damage we can fix. ? ? ?
So, if a customer signs for goods without inspection, and later discover damage, you can be ruthless and make all sorts of noise, but I'm sure Felder has all sorts of documentation shows the goods left their warehouse in good condition, and that you would be dealing with the shipping company, not a battle you're likely to win. Rejecting a delivery due to damage may end up yielding results faster than accepting damaged goods, then going through the claims process.?
Again, I've received multiple deliveries from Felder and they've all gone well, but I've unpacked each delivery prior to signing for it, as directed by Felder.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
--
--
Michael Marsico
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Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
KRP,?
Regarding your question about inspecting at the terminal, I'll copy and paste again the explicit instructions from Felder regarding receiving goods:?
Taking the time needed to properly inspect your freight is extremely important and your responsibility.?Before signing and taking possession, you MUST remove BOTH layers of plastic (outer shrink wrap and yellow inner) to properly inspect for concealed damage. ?If you see damage, call Lewis at 866-792-5288 x402 or my cell (Redacted) and we will direct you accordingly. ?If you're not sure, it's better to refuse delivery so we can hold the freight company responsible and NOT involve you in the claims process. ?If you accept a machine with damage, your full cooperation in the claims process is required. ?Not to scare you, just caution you. ?When handled properly, deliveries are smooth and cosmetic damage we can fix. ? ? ?
So, if a customer signs for goods without inspection, and later discover damage, you can be ruthless and make all sorts of noise, but I'm sure Felder has all sorts of documentation showing the goods left their warehouse in good condition, and that you would be dealing with the shipping company, not a battle you're likely to win. Rejecting a delivery due to damage may end up yielding results faster than accepting damaged goods, and then having to go through the claims process.?
I agree that "things happen", but once you've signed for damaged goods, you (the receiver) have, to some extent, taken things out of Felder's hands. It is the shipping company's responsibility to allow you to inspect the goods prior to signing, it is your responsibility to advocate for yourself prior to signing to make sure you're receiving goods in acceptable condition.?
Again, I've received multiple deliveries from Felder and they've all gone well, but I've unpacked each delivery prior to signing for it, as directed by Felder.?
(Edits: Redacted salesperson's cell #, added note about inspecting at shipping terminal prior to signing, apologies for multiple edits)
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Bill: ?Add me in for a couple; I will pass on the fingers addition and am not picky on the color as long as it is a ¡°perfect¡± Felder green (just joshing on the color). ?Terry
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On Jan 10, 2022, at 4:26 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well.
What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
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Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
Shimmdog, sorry for all your going through and thank you for sharing your experience.? Am expecting several pieces of equipment later this month including a K700S and your experience hits close to home...I would be furious after waiting so long to have the equipment arrived damaged.? Things happen and now its up to Felder to correct the problem and hopefully they get a new sliding table out to you within a reasonable amount of time---not 9 months..?
Jeff Roltgen hit the nail on the head in terms of approach...be ruthless and make a lot of noise and make sure Felder stays focused on it.? There are some comments about thoroughly inspecting the crate and removing some packaging material to inspect the equipment - is this to be done and is it normal/expected at the terminal?? Fearful that the kind folks at the terminal will just want to the load the crates on my delivery vehicle and not give time for inspection.
KRP
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Re: I need a little shaper help
Good idea, wax would work. The Castrol stick is kind of like beeswax, wintertime it¡¯s somewhat firm, and summer around here it¡¯s almost an oil. I use it to lube blades when I¡¯m cutting aluminum, drill bits, especially unibits when drilling sheet metal, and as an anti-seize when I¡¯m assembling things with nuts and bolts. I¡¯ve had the one stick for maybe 10-15 years and it¡¯s still less than half used up.
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As a general rule I have always avoided using oil or grease on anything above the table surface, fine adjuster screws excepted. For the spindle shaft collars and block bores a soft furniture wax, the type that dries applied with a cloth and then buffed off when dry to the Spindle and down the bores on a regular basis covers all of the bases. Stopping corrosion, provide lubrication and if kept to a minimum doesn't seem to collect a great deal of dust and small debris. I assume it is very similar in its behaviours to Brian's Castrol stick and will usually be to hand in the workshop.
That stuff is super sticky and thick, not sure it would be the easiest to work with and clean up after. A small tube of thinner grease, some engine oil, or like I posted, my favorite is the Castrol stick lubricant.
Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust. Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift? Glen?
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247?
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507?
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David. This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great. I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on.. Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247?
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507?
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via ??<mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: Glen Bet you won¡¯t do that again!! I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi All,?
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen?
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
I printed in PLA as it¡¯s what I have and I don¡¯t see it being an issue. You could do PETG, Nylon and carbon fiber filled, but I don¡¯t see any advantage to any of those. I have a LED light mount I printed for my CNC mill about 3 or 4 years ago, it¡¯s still working despite being sprayed with coolant and covered in chips all the time, just used PLA on it as well.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
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Re: I need a little shaper help
As a general rule I have always avoided using oil or grease on anything above the table surface, fine adjuster screws excepted.
For the spindle shaft collars and block bores a soft furniture wax, the type that dries applied with a cloth and then buffed off when dry to the Spindle and down the bores on a regular basis covers all of the bases.
Stopping corrosion, provide lubrication and if kept to a minimum doesn't seem to collect a great deal of dust and small debris.
I assume it is very similar in its behaviours to Brian's Castrol stick and will usually be to hand in the workshop.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That stuff is super sticky and thick, not sure it would be the easiest to work with and clean up after. A small tube of thinner grease, some engine oil, or like I posted, my favorite is the Castrol stick lubricant.
Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust.
Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift?
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247
Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road
????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David.
This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great.
I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on
i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on..
Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247
Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road
????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via
<mac512002= [email protected]> wrote:
Glen
Bet you won¡¯t do that again!!
I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot.
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
?Hi All,
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
What plastic type do you recommend printing it in?
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
That stuff is super sticky and thick, not sure it would be the easiest to work with and clean up after. A small tube of thinner grease, some engine oil, or like I posted, my favorite is the Castrol stick lubricant.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust. Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift? Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David. This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great. I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on.. Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: Glen Bet you won¡¯t do that again!! I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi All,
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Bill:
I'd like one too.? Let me know how to pay you.
Gary Pollard
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Re: I need a little shaper help
Glen and others I am NOT with Brian on this one, ?may be LPS 1 wiped on and off but NO grease. ? I all the time and shops that I have been around shapers and moulders I have never seen or heard of using any grease on spindles.? Clean and proper set up is the key. mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 9, 2022, at 11:06 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
? Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust. Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift? Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David. This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great. I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on.. Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: Glen Bet you won¡¯t do that again!! I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi All,
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
Brian, Thanks for that tip. I thought about that in the past and just thought it would attract more dust. Would white lithium grease be ok as I happen to have that for the forklift? Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 7:31 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Use a dab of grease on the shaft and cutter bores when you assemble them, it will keep the metal from galling as it slides onto the spindle.
Thank you Mac and David. This morning I went and bought a super small file and emory cloth and bingo. It worked great. I don't actually thing I really spun the cutter but there was the slightest little burr on the shaft, so the cutter may have moved a bit or there was something else going on i will make sure that I check when putting that last spacer on.. Thanks guys, New spindel was 1300 bucks and they did not have them. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 5:59 PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: Glen Bet you won¡¯t do that again!! I would file off the burr with a fine fie, just the burr you will be fine maybe a little emery cloth only on the spot. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi All,
Well I have apparently spun a cutter head on the shaft. Not sure how this happened as the stack was very tight and I know have the last spacer above the top of the shaft.
my guess is it wasn't high enough.
I got the cutter off but I cant get the lower spacers off.
So what route should I take.I can see the slightest burr on the shaft. That is why I assumed I spun the cutter.
Go figure I was having my most productive day in a long time.
Thanks In advance.
Glen
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Re: Aftermarket Digital Rip Fence?
Rather than trying to convert the crosscut fence stop to a left-of-blade rip fence with some kind of square, I think you¡¯d be better off making a Fritz & Franz jig with movable stops, and captivating your material between the two F&F components. ?Steve Rowe has done a good video of this idea at the following link:
This is it in concept - it¡¯s what I use and I think of it as kind of a mini parallel fence setup:
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I use the rip fence for longer narrow work which seems like about half the time.? Fo me it is a major feature of the machine.
Sometimes i use a 12" triangle square against the x-cut fence and work piece for in between shape work pieces as insurance.? A longer squaring arm that rides in the face groove of x-cut fence and used the same measuring system as the x-cut stops might be handy.? I would be able to work to the left of the blade more often.
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Fred Rossi
Bill Belanger
Tom Gensmer
David P. Best