Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
I'll print it for $25 plus shipping.
Bill@...
Bill Belanger
|
Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
No… don’t really want to get into selling 3D printed parts. There are plenty of online or local people that will print for you, just provide the file I uploaded and that should work. You can go to Shapeways for example (pricey but I have used them in the past and the quality was good) and they can print for about $80 each.
Someone local should be able to print them for a lot less… look on Craig’s List of Facebook Market place for somebody close to you.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
will you be selling them?
On Saturday, January 8, 2022, 12:27:40 PM PST, Joe Albiston < joe@...> wrote:
Hopefully tan and? taupe!?
Joe Sent from my communication device. Please excuse any grammatical mistakes. Very nice!? Does it come in Mauve? ? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 8, 2022, at 11:15 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?I spent a few days and printed some test parts to fit into the standard 72mm x 70mm fence extrusion. Did the final iteration today and it’s ready to go. I changed it to use a standard 90? cone point set screw (I machined a couple to 60? point here because that’s what I had on hand, but they aren’t readily available). I designed this with the threads in the model, so it prints the threads into the part, but most likely you will have to chase it with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap to clean up the threads. Mine seems to print the lower portion of the threads just fine, but the first turn or two is tight.
This design allows you to slide the tongue into the extrusion and just snug the set screw which wedges it into place, comes right back out with loosening the set screw. I don’t really want to get into the printing of these, so I’ve uploaded the file into the files section.?
A couple of notes, I set my slicer to do 1.8mm walls and then did 3mm top layer. The extra wall thickness makes it strong enough to use the screw to wedge it tight, and the extra thickness at the top will allow you to trim it to exactly the blade position and (hopefully) not go through into the internal support structure. I just did these in PLA as it prints fine and seems plenty strong. The “tongue” sticks out 1.625, so hopefully that’s pretty close to what most of the machines measure from the blade to the rip fence extrusion. Print it oriented with the face in the first picture down, hardest part is getting the damn support structure off the bottom once it’s done.
Oh, set screw is here:? ?
Backside, hard to see, but it has four splits to allow it to wedge open
Slides right into the fence extrusion
Tighten the set screw and it locks it in place
-- Joe Albiston
|
Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
You can print it in any color of filament you can buy…?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Very nice! ?Does it come in Mauve? ? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 8, 2022, at 11:15 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? I spent a few days and printed some test parts to fit into the standard 72mm x 70mm fence extrusion. Did the final iteration today and it’s ready to go. I changed it to use a standard 90? cone point set screw (I machined a couple to 60? point here because that’s what I had on hand, but they aren’t readily available). I designed this with the threads in the model, so it prints the threads into the part, but most likely you will have to chase it with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap to clean up the threads. Mine seems to print the lower portion of the threads just fine, but the first turn or two is tight.
This design allows you to slide the tongue into the extrusion and just snug the set screw which wedges it into place, comes right back out with loosening the set screw. I don’t really want to get into the printing of these, so I’ve uploaded the file into the files section.?
A couple of notes, I set my slicer to do 1.8mm walls and then did 3mm top layer. The extra wall thickness makes it strong enough to use the screw to wedge it tight, and the extra thickness at the top will allow you to trim it to exactly the blade position and (hopefully) not go through into the internal support structure. I just did these in PLA as it prints fine and seems plenty strong. The “tongue” sticks out 1.625, so hopefully that’s pretty close to what most of the machines measure from the blade to the rip fence extrusion. Print it oriented with the face in the first picture down, hardest part is getting the damn support structure off the bottom once it’s done.
Oh, set screw is here:? ?
Backside, hard to see, but it has four splits to allow it to wedge open
<IMG_4935.jpeg>
Slides right into the fence extrusion
<IMG_4937.JPG>
Tighten the set screw and it locks it in place
|
Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
will you be selling them?
On Saturday, January 8, 2022, 12:27:40 PM PST, Joe Albiston <joe@...> wrote:
Hopefully tan and? taupe!?
Joe Sent from my communication device. Please excuse any grammatical mistakes.
Very nice!? Does it come in Mauve? ? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 8, 2022, at 11:15 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?I spent a few days and printed some test parts to fit into the standard 72mm x 70mm fence extrusion. Did the final iteration today and it’s ready to go. I changed it to use a standard 90? cone point set screw (I machined a couple to 60? point here because that’s what I had on hand, but they aren’t readily available). I designed this with the threads in the model, so it prints the threads into the part, but most likely you will have to chase it with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap to clean up the threads. Mine seems to print the lower portion of the threads just fine, but the first turn or two is tight.
This design allows you to slide the tongue into the extrusion and just snug the set screw which wedges it into place, comes right back out with loosening the set screw. I don’t really want to get into the printing of these, so I’ve uploaded the file into the files section.?
A couple of notes, I set my slicer to do 1.8mm walls and then did 3mm top layer. The extra wall thickness makes it strong enough to use the screw to wedge it tight, and the extra thickness at the top will allow you to trim it to exactly the blade position and (hopefully) not go through into the internal support structure. I just did these in PLA as it prints fine and seems plenty strong. The “tongue” sticks out 1.625, so hopefully that’s pretty close to what most of the machines measure from the blade to the rip fence extrusion. Print it oriented with the face in the first picture down, hardest part is getting the damn support structure off the bottom once it’s done.
Oh, set screw is here:? ?
Backside, hard to see, but it has four splits to allow it to wedge open
Slides right into the fence extrusion
Tighten the set screw and it locks it in place
--
Joe Albiston
|
Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Hopefully tan and? taupe!?
Joe Sent from my communication device. Please excuse any grammatical mistakes.
Very nice!? Does it come in Mauve? ? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jan 8, 2022, at 11:15 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?I spent a few days and printed some test parts to fit into the standard 72mm x 70mm fence extrusion. Did the final iteration today and it’s ready to go. I changed it to use a standard 90? cone point set screw (I machined a couple to 60? point here because that’s what I had on hand, but they aren’t readily available). I designed this with the threads in the model, so it prints the threads into the part, but most likely you will have to chase it with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap to clean up the threads. Mine seems to print the lower portion of the threads just fine, but the first turn or two is tight.
This design allows you to slide the tongue into the extrusion and just snug the set screw which wedges it into place, comes right back out with loosening the set screw. I don’t really want to get into the printing of these, so I’ve uploaded the file into the files section.?
A couple of notes, I set my slicer to do 1.8mm walls and then did 3mm top layer. The extra wall thickness makes it strong enough to use the screw to wedge it tight, and the extra thickness at the top will allow you to trim it to exactly the blade position and (hopefully) not go through into the internal support structure. I just did these in PLA as it prints fine and seems plenty strong. The “tongue” sticks out 1.625, so hopefully that’s pretty close to what most of the machines measure from the blade to the rip fence extrusion. Print it oriented with the face in the first picture down, hardest part is getting the damn support structure off the bottom once it’s done.
Oh, set screw is here:? ?
Backside, hard to see, but it has four splits to allow it to wedge open
Slides right into the fence extrusion
Tighten the set screw and it locks it in place
--
Joe Albiston
|
Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
I spent a few days and printed some test parts to fit into the standard 72mm x 70mm fence extrusion. Did the final iteration today and it’s ready to go. I changed it to use a standard 90? cone point set screw (I machined a couple to 60? point here because that’s what I had on hand, but they aren’t readily available). I designed this with the threads in the model, so it prints the threads into the part, but most likely you will have to chase it with a 5/16-18 bottoming tap to clean up the threads. Mine seems to print the lower portion of the threads just fine, but the first turn or two is tight.
This design allows you to slide the tongue into the extrusion and just snug the set screw which wedges it into place, comes right back out with loosening the set screw. I don’t really want to get into the printing of these, so I’ve uploaded the file into the files section.?
A couple of notes, I set my slicer to do 1.8mm walls and then did 3mm top layer. The extra wall thickness makes it strong enough to use the screw to wedge it tight, and the extra thickness at the top will allow you to trim it to exactly the blade position and (hopefully) not go through into the internal support structure. I just did these in PLA as it prints fine and seems plenty strong. The “tongue” sticks out 1.625, so hopefully that’s pretty close to what most of the machines measure from the blade to the rip fence extrusion. Print it oriented with the face in the first picture down, hardest part is getting the damn support structure off the bottom once it’s done.
Oh, set screw is here:? ?
Backside, hard to see, but it has four splits to allow it to wedge open
Slides right into the fence extrusion
Tighten the set screw and it locks it in place
|
File /3D Printer Files/Non DRO stepped V2 90 degree point.stl uploaded
#file-notice
The following files have been uploaded to
the Files area of the [email protected] group.
By: Brian Lamb <blamb11@...>
Description:
Newest splinter tongue file
|
Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
Now I remember, on my k700 the xcut fence was bolted to the pallet under the saw and the rip in with the slider.
On the k940 the xcut was bolted to where the slider mounts on the saw and the rip was with the slider
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2022, at 1:29 PM, Jared Leach <leach.jared@...> wrote:
? On my KF700S I got delivered in July the crosscut fence was mounted with bolts to the top of the cast iron table. I had purchased the rip DRO and it was in a separate box. I think mine were in the slider “crate” I remember going through the same “win in the hell is the…” On Jan 8, 2022, at 12:36 PM, scottshimmin via <scottshimmin=[email protected]> wrote:
?Thanks for all of the replies.? Felder has already filed a claim and plans to send a new sliding table to replace the damaged one.? On another note, where should I find the crosscut and rip fences in the packaging?? I don't see them on the machine pallet and haven't opened the damaged slider box yet.??
|
Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
On my KF700S I got delivered in July the crosscut fence was mounted with bolts to the top of the cast iron table. I had purchased the rip DRO and it was in a separate box.
I think mine were in the slider “crate” I remember going through the same “win in the hell is the…” On Jan 8, 2022, at 12:36 PM, scottshimmin via <scottshimmin=[email protected]> wrote:
?Thanks for all of the replies.? Felder has already filed a claim and plans to send a new sliding table to replace the damaged one.? On another note, where should I find the crosscut and rip fences in the packaging?? I don't see them on the machine pallet and haven't opened the damaged slider box yet.??
|
Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
I think mine were in the slider “crate” I remember going through the same “win in the hell is the…”
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2022, at 12:36 PM, scottshimmin via groups.io <scottshimmin@...> wrote:
?Thanks for all of the replies.? Felder has already filed a claim and plans to send a new sliding table to replace the damaged one.? On another note, where should I find the crosscut and rip fences in the packaging?? I don't see them on the machine pallet and haven't opened the damaged slider box yet.??
|
Re: New K700S Delivery Damage to Sliding Table
Thanks for all of the replies.? Felder has already filed a claim and plans to send a new sliding table to replace the damaged one.? On another note, where should I find the crosscut and rip fences in the packaging?? I don't see them on the machine pallet and haven't opened the damaged slider box yet.??
|
Great point about rice and mice. Do mice eat hull or only after seed?
I agree tread carefully with new products. The one I mentioned earlier by Boral (with ash & good for ground contact) has been around for few years now and looks amazing but a bit expensive.
When we built 20 yrs ago we went with fiber cement siding as the first version of smart side failed miserably. ?IIRC, nationwide recall. Now Smart Side is replacing fibre cement.
Like you said, will know in a few yrs.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2022, at 11:45 AM, Mark Koury <mhkoury@...> wrote: ? Great, the next wonder material from the Green Crew. It is labeled as “Pest Resistant.” I wonder what that means? Bugs like wood and I’ll bet rice too. Bugs don’t like vinyl. I couldn’t find any real data with a cursory look. We should know in about 5 years if they use it in the South. Does anyone know about pricing? Mark
Just catching up on this old house. Last week’s episode showed this PVC with rice hull product which they are using for trim. Especially interesting is that one can take a wedge out (similar to Rockler miter fold) from the middle of a long trim board and fold it 90 degrees (some heat required) to make a seamless corner trim board.
Has anyone used this product? Comes in sheets as well as boards. Paintable and stainable (apparently to look like wood).
Last time I got excited about a new siding product rated for ground contact made out of waste ash was short lived. At?$80 a board (5 yrs ago), it is definitely out of my price range.?
Imran PS, they never mentioned the product name on the show. A search brought up ACRE which match the description. Not sure if there are other manufacturers supplying the same product.
|
Great, the next wonder material from the Green Crew. It is labeled as “Pest Resistant.” I wonder what that means? Bugs like wood and I’ll bet rice too. Bugs don’t like vinyl. I couldn’t find any real data with a cursory look. We should know in about 5 years if they use it in the South. Does anyone know about pricing?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Just catching up on this old house. Last week’s episode showed this PVC with rice hull product which they are using for trim. Especially interesting is that one can take a wedge out (similar to Rockler miter fold) from the middle of a long trim board and fold it 90 degrees (some heat required) to make a seamless corner trim board.
Has anyone used this product? Comes in sheets as well as boards. Paintable and stainable (apparently to look like wood).
Last time I got excited about a new siding product rated for ground contact made out of waste ash was short lived. At?$80 a board (5 yrs ago), it is definitely out of my price range.?
Imran PS, they never mentioned the product name on the show. A search brought up ACRE which match the description. Not sure if there are other manufacturers supplying the same product.
|
Hi Marty,
On the show the main benefit Tom Silva shared, compared to std. PVC trim, this changes length 15% less - does not sound like a huge advantage.
However being stainable (to look like wood) has to be the biggest advantage. You could almost see PVC clad with an image layer. This layer, totally guessing, likely allows for bending the material 90 deg. They only showed bending along the length (outside corner board) but I assume bending may also be possible across the length, for a wrap around horizontal trim board. The corner did not appear sharp though, more like a round over look.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 8, 2022, at 10:01 AM, marty shultz <azmartys@...> wrote: ?I haven't heard of it.? I wonder if it's stronger that Trex.
|
I haven't heard of it.? I wonder if it's stronger that Trex.
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
Imran.? I actually like the idea and I may explore it on a cabinet for the shop. Not sure how I deal with the fact of no face frame but you have me thinking.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2022, at 7:43 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Glen,
That was just a thought top of my head since you mentioned that the cabinet does not have the holes drilled on the sides. Anyhow, you have some good options shared by David Sabo’s and David Best.
Imran
On Jan 7, 2022, at 8:12 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
? Imran, The dovetail idea is intriguing for face frame cabinets, but I am doing euro boxes. The other thing is I am not willing to put in that much time as im throwing this in I see some other comments but havent had time to look at them yet.
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 8:42 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ?Glen, ?First thought that comes to mind is having a stack of dovetail ways on the inside on each side of the lower cabinet. The width of the dovetail way should be wide enough to receive a dovetailed part that one can mount the drawer slide to. A pin/screw of sort will be required to prevent the dovetail slide to pull out.
Not as adjustable as pins but I can’t imagine that working without incorporating lateral support that would keep the runners pushed into the cabinet sides. This support will also push on the sides of the cabinet outward. I guess the drawer could itself be tight fitting to accomplish this but I am not sure if slides are designed to do so. Also, it would not be easy to relocate them because the runners would need to be held onto the sides while the drawer is inserted. Maybe I am not following this concept properly.
Imran? ?Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
Glen,
That was just a thought top of my head since you mentioned that the cabinet does not have the holes drilled on the sides. Anyhow, you have some good options shared by David Sabo’s and David Best.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2022, at 8:12 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote: ? Imran, The dovetail idea is intriguing for face frame cabinets, but I am doing euro boxes. The other thing is I am not willing to put in that much time as im throwing this in I see some other comments but havent had time to look at them yet.
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 8:42 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ?Glen, ?First thought that comes to mind is having a stack of dovetail ways on the inside on each side of the lower cabinet. The width of the dovetail way should be wide enough to receive a dovetailed part that one can mount the drawer slide to. A pin/screw of sort will be required to prevent the dovetail slide to pull out.
Not as adjustable as pins but I can’t imagine that working without incorporating lateral support that would keep the runners pushed into the cabinet sides. This support will also push on the sides of the cabinet outward. I guess the drawer could itself be tight fitting to accomplish this but I am not sure if slides are designed to do so. Also, it would not be easy to relocate them because the runners would need to be held onto the sides while the drawer is inserted. Maybe I am not following this concept properly.
Imran? ?Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
Imran, The dovetail idea is intriguing for face frame cabinets, but I am doing euro boxes. The other thing is I am not willing to put in that much time as im throwing this in I see some other comments but havent had time to look at them yet.
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 8:42 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ?Glen, ?First thought that comes to mind is having a stack of dovetail ways on the inside on each side of the lower cabinet. The width of the dovetail way should be wide enough to receive a dovetailed part that one can mount the drawer slide to. A pin/screw of sort will be required to prevent the dovetail slide to pull out.
Not as adjustable as pins but I can’t imagine that working without incorporating lateral support that would keep the runners pushed into the cabinet sides. This support will also push on the sides of the cabinet outward. I guess the drawer could itself be tight fitting to accomplish this but I am not sure if slides are designed to do so. Also, it would not be easy to relocate them because the runners would need to be held onto the sides while the drawer is inserted. Maybe I am not following this concept properly.
Imran? ?Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: The price of an information at Felder?
Fully agree SCM is repair friendly, I had a very minor issue yesterday with my 1 yo SCM spindle moulder, I am not a mechanic and I believed it required technician (pneumatic pin wont lock spindle) but I gone through the manual and I had a hunch that could do it myself, which I did and it was done in 15 minutes because it was easily accessible and repair friendly.?
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
I use Castrol 140 bandsaw blade lube, comes in a tube:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 7, 2022, at 10:06 AM, Rick Scholl < rlscholl@...> wrote:
The assembly grease you can get at auto supply stores (specifically for crankshaft journals during engine assembly) is good for this application. It is relatively thin, and comes in toothpaste-like tubes.
|
Bill Belanger
imran
marty shultz
Albert Lee