Re: Working Time of West System Epoxy
Imran, Thank you,
I switched to another product for the totem pole due to how hot it got. However this is good because I haven't glued up my test curve yet and this makes me feel more confident.
I believe someone said to coat the surfaces and let them soak and coat again on assembly. I can't remember. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 8:15 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
I came across the working time of west system extra slow hardner. It is much longer than pot life, 3-4 hrs. Probably too late but something to remember.
Imran
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
On May 6, 2021 06:02, Jonathan Martens <jonathan@...> wrote: On May 6, 2021 05:58, Jonathan Martens <jonathan@...> wrote: No, I would what we Dutch call a 'valdorpel', which might be more convenient and keeps your current low threshold and clearance.
When the door is opened the weatherstrip pulls up, when closing the door it lowers and seals the slot between bottom of the door and threshold/floor:
Here is a random link for? picture says more than a thousand words:
https://www.schreuderenco.nl/valdorpel-planet-hs-1085-960-mm
You could use it together with this threshold for (even better) watertightness.?
https://www.schreuderenco.nl/buitendeurdorpel-planet-f140
Apart from that we almost always use the drip as shown in sketch by Martin in this thread.?
Regards,?
Jonathan?
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
You could use it together with this threshold for (even better) watertightness.?
https://www.schreuderenco.nl/buitendeurdorpel-planet-f140
Regards,
Jonathan?
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
No, I would what we Dutch call a 'valdorpel', which might be more convenient and keeps your current low threshold and clearance.
When the door is opened the weatherstrip pulls up, when closing the door it lowers and seals the slot between bottom of the door and threshold/floor:
Here is a random link for? picture says more than a thousand words:
https://www.schreuderenco.nl/valdorpel-planet-hs-1085-960-mm
Kind regards,
Jonathan?
On May 6, 2021 00:15, "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...> wrote:
So for this storage room door, I prefer the threshold is not too high. I can do what I did for my shop. The threshold is on the interior and the back side of the door touches it. Threshold acts like a stop and has weatherstrip in it. So the bottom of the door is exposed to concrete. I wanted low threshold for moving equipment in and out and this has worked fine for 16+ yrs.
The difference in this shed’s case is that while water sheds away from my shop door, right now the rain water does flow over the concrete pad in front of the door. This can be remedied by better grading to some extent but is a result of maximizing the height of door opening to be able to accommodate a 12’ high clearance. So for a worst case scenario assume that after rain the water may pool on the low side corner of the door opening.
So if I place the threshold behind the door, I expect that the concrete will be wet for some time after it rains, at least under the left corner. If I extend the wood threshold under the door, let’s say 3/4” thick, it will push water away but will likely absorb moisture in the process. Do you guys think having wood threshold under the door will be worthwhile?
Imran
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
Hi Mark, ? I thought it was simple enough to explain. Anyhow, This is one design with a step threshold. There is wood under the door and then in the back there is a stop. ? 
? In the other scenario, like my current workshop door, there is just the stop behind the door. ? Difference between the two, is that door panel is above concrete in one and above wood in the other. Having the wood below as in the above pic, will divert rain water and prevent it from pooling underneath. In both cases there will be ?” gap between the door and concrete or wood. ? As a result of this exercise, I guess I just need to grade the ground to resolve the drainage issue. I was not mentally prepared for doing this any time soon. With drainage resolved I can go with a simple stop threshold as I have in my workshop. ? Imran ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of mark thomas Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2021 10:00 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Concrete vs Wood Exposure ? Imran, it'd be way nicer if you made more sketches and used less words.
I'm guessing you don't even have a threshold, but rather a wedge-shaped door stop, like this?
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
Thanks Mac. That is certainly an option if I cannot accomplish by simply re-grading.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 5, 2021, at 9:39 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote: ?
Off to french drain!
<image.png> Designing and building for 50 years On May 5, 2021, at 7:05 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Mac,
Nice drawing. Appears the purpose of this drip is to shed rain water from the surface of the door to a distance where it can drain away from threshold. My issue is rain water on ground pooling next to threshold on one side and slowly draining / evaporating ?away.
Imran On May 5, 2021, at 6:51 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote: ? I attach a drip to door to move water away.
<image.jpg> Designing and building for 50 years On May 5, 2021, at 5:15 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?So for this storage room door, I prefer the threshold is not too high. I can do what I did for my shop. The threshold is on the interior and the back side of the door touches it. Threshold acts like a stop and has weatherstrip in it. So the bottom of the door is exposed to concrete. I wanted low threshold for moving equipment in and out and this has worked fine for 16+ yrs.
The difference in this shed’s case is that while water sheds away from my shop door, right now the rain water does flow over the concrete pad in front of the door. This can be remedied by better grading to some extent but is a result of maximizing the height of door opening to be able to accommodate a 12’ high clearance. So for a worst case scenario assume that after rain the water may pool on the low side corner of the door opening.
So if I place the threshold behind the door, I expect that the concrete will be wet for some time after it rains, at least under the left corner. If I extend the wood threshold under the door, let’s say 3/4” thick, it will push water away but will likely absorb moisture in the process. Do you guys think having wood threshold under the door will be worthwhile?
Imran
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
Imran, it'd be way nicer if you made more sketches and used less words. I'm guessing you don't even have a threshold, but rather a wedge-shaped door stop, like this? 
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
Off to french drain!
 Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 5, 2021, at 7:05 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Mac,
Nice drawing. Appears the purpose of this drip is to shed rain water from the surface of the door to a distance where it can drain away from threshold. My issue is rain water on ground pooling next to threshold on one side and slowly draining / evaporating ?away.
Imran On May 5, 2021, at 6:51 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote: ? I attach a drip to door to move water away.
<image.jpg> Designing and building for 50 years On May 5, 2021, at 5:15 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?So for this storage room door, I prefer the threshold is not too high. I can do what I did for my shop. The threshold is on the interior and the back side of the door touches it. Threshold acts like a stop and has weatherstrip in it. So the bottom of the door is exposed to concrete. I wanted low threshold for moving equipment in and out and this has worked fine for 16+ yrs.
The difference in this shed’s case is that while water sheds away from my shop door, right now the rain water does flow over the concrete pad in front of the door. This can be remedied by better grading to some extent but is a result of maximizing the height of door opening to be able to accommodate a 12’ high clearance. So for a worst case scenario assume that after rain the water may pool on the low side corner of the door opening.
So if I place the threshold behind the door, I expect that the concrete will be wet for some time after it rains, at least under the left corner. If I extend the wood threshold under the door, let’s say 3/4” thick, it will push water away but will likely absorb moisture in the process. Do you guys think having wood threshold under the door will be worthwhile?
Imran
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
Hi Mac,
Nice drawing. Appears the purpose of this drip is to shed rain water from the surface of the door to a distance where it can drain away from threshold. My issue is rain water on ground pooling next to threshold on one side and slowly draining / evaporating ?away.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 5, 2021, at 6:51 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote: ? I attach a drip to door to move water away.
<image.jpg> Designing and building for 50 years On May 5, 2021, at 5:15 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?So for this storage room door, I prefer the threshold is not too high. I can do what I did for my shop. The threshold is on the interior and the back side of the door touches it. Threshold acts like a stop and has weatherstrip in it. So the bottom of the door is exposed to concrete. I wanted low threshold for moving equipment in and out and this has worked fine for 16+ yrs.
The difference in this shed’s case is that while water sheds away from my shop door, right now the rain water does flow over the concrete pad in front of the door. This can be remedied by better grading to some extent but is a result of maximizing the height of door opening to be able to accommodate a 12’ high clearance. So for a worst case scenario assume that after rain the water may pool on the low side corner of the door opening.
So if I place the threshold behind the door, I expect that the concrete will be wet for some time after it rains, at least under the left corner. If I extend the wood threshold under the door, let’s say 3/4” thick, it will push water away but will likely absorb moisture in the process. Do you guys think having wood threshold under the door will be worthwhile?
Imran
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
I second Mac's autographed and dated sketch. The bigger and more conductive your drip edge to carry the water "OUT/AWAY" , the better your chances of not worrying about it. Any wooden products are gonna swell in the presence of moisture, which will eventually lead to ruin once they start making contact and rubbing/sticking.
For bonus protection, use a brush or sweep seal at the farthest?extent? of the drip edge (sweeping the floor)that will conduct water down to the concrete but through the magic of water surface tension, won't seep past and under the door.
For bonus bonus, use multiple brush or sweep seals for added draft/insect/water resilience and redundancy in case of damage.
And you can always mount a bulb seal from the door down rather than a threshold facing up.
These resources?are terrific for engineered concepts and pricing is not usually too bad either.?
On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 5:51 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I attach a drip to door to move water away.
 Designing and building for 50 years ?So for this storage room door, I prefer the threshold is not too high. I can do what I did for my shop. The threshold is on the interior and the back side of the door touches it. Threshold acts like a stop and has weatherstrip in it. So the bottom of the door is exposed to concrete. I wanted low threshold for moving equipment in and out and this has worked fine for 16+ yrs.
The difference in this shed’s case is that while water sheds away from my shop door, right now the rain water does flow over the concrete pad in front of the door. This can be remedied by better grading to some extent but is a result of maximizing the height of door opening to be able to accommodate a 12’ high clearance. So for a worst case scenario assume that after rain the water may pool on the low side corner of the door opening.
So if I place the threshold behind the door, I expect that the concrete will be wet for some time after it rains, at least under the left corner. If I extend the wood threshold under the door, let’s say 3/4” thick, it will push water away but will likely absorb moisture in the process. Do you guys think having wood threshold under the door will be worthwhile?
Imran
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Concrete vs Wood Exposure
I attach a drip to door to move water away.
 Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 5, 2021, at 5:15 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?So for this storage room door, I prefer the threshold is not too high. I can do what I did for my shop. The threshold is on the interior and the back side of the door touches it. Threshold acts like a stop and has weatherstrip in it. So the bottom of the door is exposed to concrete. I wanted low threshold for moving equipment in and out and this has worked fine for 16+ yrs.
The difference in this shed’s case is that while water sheds away from my shop door, right now the rain water does flow over the concrete pad in front of the door. This can be remedied by better grading to some extent but is a result of maximizing the height of door opening to be able to accommodate a 12’ high clearance. So for a worst case scenario assume that after rain the water may pool on the low side corner of the door opening.
So if I place the threshold behind the door, I expect that the concrete will be wet for some time after it rains, at least under the left corner. If I extend the wood threshold under the door, let’s say 3/4” thick, it will push water away but will likely absorb moisture in the process. Do you guys think having wood threshold under the door will be worthwhile?
Imran
|
Concrete vs Wood Exposure
So for this storage room door, I prefer the threshold is not too high. I can do what I did for my shop. The threshold is on the interior and the back side of the door touches it. Threshold acts like a stop and has weatherstrip in it. So the bottom of the door is exposed to concrete. I wanted low threshold for moving equipment in and out and this has worked fine for 16+ yrs.
The difference in this shed’s case is that while water sheds away from my shop door, right now the rain water does flow over the concrete pad in front of the door. This can be remedied by better grading to some extent but is a result of maximizing the height of door opening to be able to accommodate a 12’ high clearance. So for a worst case scenario assume that after rain the water may pool on the low side corner of the door opening.
So if I place the threshold behind the door, I expect that the concrete will be wet for some time after it rains, at least under the left corner. If I extend the wood threshold under the door, let’s say 3/4” thick, it will push water away but will likely absorb moisture in the process. Do you guys think having wood threshold under the door will be worthwhile?
Imran
|
FOG members in Spokane area
I've been talking to a guy about a metal lathe in the Spokane area.? He seems like a nice guy but unable to cope with any help on moving or dealing with any way to ship the machine.? I remember someone here who offered help with a similar situation a year ago and wondering if anyone near there would be willing to help with arrangements for shipping.? I understand there is more risk than reward for the help and I will walk or run away if necessary.? The lathe is an old English Holbrook which is very similar in build to a Smart and Brown I have.? Thanks and feel free to contact me directly.? Dave
|
Working Time of West System Epoxy
?Glen,
I came across the working time of west system extra slow hardner. It is much longer than pot life, 3-4 hrs. Probably too late but something to remember.
Imran
|
Looks great, glad you figured out the control arms.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I made my own control arms, and then I was able to get the staples close to just right, and if I wanted them to go in further, I could get that with a light touch of a hammer. ?That could have been tricky if I used maple I think.
The 1/4 inch wide staples were good once I had nice control arms at even dimensions and I updated the jig.
Almost done. ?Just a bit of adjustment on the installation still needed. ?One thing about the frames out of maple compared to basswood is the extra weight can make the clearance at the bottom tricky, especially where there is a bifold, even with tight mortises on the hinges.
<Unknown.jpeg>
|
Re: Auto Start DC only works if you remember to turn power on ?
I have started to wear one. A benefit of pandemic and also because now that I am retired, I am in shop much more than weekends. Unfortunately, I did not have one on when this happened. The fine cloud jettisoned at the end of the video is something ....
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 5, 2021, at 8:17 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote: ?Hope you put your respiratory mask on,
I never forget the DC for the planner yet, but I have done so on the table saw and the Dylos went to the roof,
Bill
|
Re: Auto Start DC only works if you remember to turn power on ?
Hope you put your respiratory mask on,
I never forget the DC for the planner yet, but I have done so on the table saw and the Dylos went to the roof,
Bill
|
Extremely well done, I would love to have those in my house. I am sure during summer months in my house with shutters closed during 10am to 2pm, would cool house down considerably and look great. Sorry, have not fully followed this thread could you explain the staple issue you overcame to a lay person. Thinking of building my own shutters and yours are spot on for my situation.? Colin ? Sent from for Windows 10 ? ? I made my own control arms, and then I was able to get the staples close to just right, and if I wanted them to go in further, I could get that with a light touch of a hammer. ?That could have been tricky if I used maple I think.
The 1/4 inch wide staples were good once I had nice control arms at even dimensions and I updated the jig.
Almost done. ?Just a bit of adjustment on the installation still needed. ?One thing about the frames out of maple compared to basswood is the extra weight can make the clearance at the bottom tricky, especially where there is a bifold, even with tight mortises on the hinges.
|
|
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
|
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 5, 2021, at 2:20 AM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote: ?I made my own control arms, and then I was able to get the staples close to just right, and if I wanted them to go in further, I could get that with a light touch of a hammer. ?That could have been tricky if I used maple I think. The 1/4 inch wide staples were good once I had nice control arms at even dimensions and I updated the jig. Almost done. ?Just a bit of adjustment on the installation still needed. ?One thing about the frames out of maple compared to basswood is the extra weight can make the clearance at the bottom tricky, especially where there is a bifold, even with tight mortises on the hinges.
<Unknown.jpeg>
|
I made my own control arms, and then I was able to get the staples close to just right, and if I wanted them to go in further, I could get that with a light touch of a hammer. ?That could have been tricky if I used maple I think.
The 1/4 inch wide staples were good once I had nice control arms at even dimensions and I updated the jig.
Almost done. ?Just a bit of adjustment on the installation still needed. ?One thing about the frames out of maple compared to basswood is the extra weight can make the clearance at the bottom tricky, especially where there is a bifold, even with tight mortises on the hinges.
|
Jonathan Martens
imran
