As someone who remodeled a finger as a direct result of cold shop temp and? improper clothing, I caution you all about working in the cold with machinery.? The money you're saving on the heat bill goes up in smoke in a hurry when you show up at the ER with a mangled hand. And then the hand surgeon. And PT/OT. And lost income because you can't work. I can't stress it enough, no wearing gloves ever while operating a machine. I will include my glove photo as a reminder. Yes, my hand was in there.
If you're cold, you're probably in a hurry. If you're in a hurry, you're not doing your best work, and quite possibly not making the best decisions about safety.
Thanks Jason
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Thanks.? The doors are book matched and the drawers are slip matched.? The sycamore came from sawyer Robert Beauchamp in Woodland.? He is a very helpful guy and has a huge stash of claro.
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Really nice job Jim. I love the ability to grain match to the extreme with veneers.
I've got a crazy job veneering some Klipsh?Khorn speakers coming up this spring. We've decided to go with the craziest waterfall bubinga I've ever seen. The original is really pedestrian looking red oak. I'm still on the fence about whether I'm going to waterfall the edges or? not. It might just be too much visually.
 Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Chris,
Unless you are working in below freezing temps a properly specified?electrolytic capacitors?in good working condition should work fine.
If the machine/capacitor is really old I would change out the caps. If it is really old, the technology has really improved from old electrolyte to polypropylene film.
Imran
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On Mar 25, 2021, at 8:52 AM, Chris Twigger via groups.io <christwigger@...> wrote: ?When its really cold in my shop I have a similar problem on the planer on my CF 731 combi. All i do is point a fan heater at the motor for approx 30 secs and it fires straight up this only needs doing once as subsequent startsups are Ok, has to be really cold though as normally it starts straight away worth trying to get you cutting wood.
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When its really cold in my shop I have a similar problem on the planer on my CF 731 combi. All i do is point a fan heater at the motor for approx 30 secs and it fires straight up this only needs doing once as subsequent startsups are Ok, has to be really cold though as normally it starts straight away worth trying to get you cutting wood.
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? ?It was hard to get good pics, but here is a try. ?
Steel parts used: - 1/4” x 2” to extend front & back members as well as the bottom members under the J/P - ?3/4” x 1 1/2” tube to further reinforce / stiffen the bottom members that J/ P sits on
- 1” Angle (“L”) to reinforce/stiffen front and back (when raised, they flexed a bit too much without these). ?Hard to see here, but the angle is welded to back of front here (you can see against the floor). Same done on the back - 3/4” rod to replace the short one 
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:25 PM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:
?On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 01:42 PM, Marc Evans wrote:
All OTS. I’ll try to take closeup pics later
Thanks, Bill
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Re: Straightlining lumber
Glen,
You will have sag. No matter how you do it you will have 6’ unsupported at the beginning and at end.
If you attach the insert to the bottom of the sled, a hydraulic cart may work If you clamp couple of flat pieces that are thicker than the insert height, so sled is supported on each side of the insert. Otherwise it likely will dip on the blade side.
I am able to support 10” width of the sled with a roller because the insert is 10” away from blade (pre xroll slider).
Be good to hear what you learn from your experiment.
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 10:27 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote: ? As Brian described it is exactly how I am going to have to do it, I plan to use my hydraulic carts at each end to carry the load of the template and stock. Or so I think, Maybe there won't be enough sag to be a problem , I don't know until I try it. I think the biggest problem is that my track guide may pop out of the slot. This weekend I am going to just build and experiment a straight slot guide to doing your T slot version I have a unit of siding here a can experement with a few boars and re order what I stole from his order. Glen ? ? Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 5:05 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brian,
Thanks, sorry I got excited and read into it.
Since my sled slides easy and I did need to support sled over hanging the 78” slider it was easier to lock table and setup stands at infeed and outfeed.
Have not used the sled on my 10’ slider and definitely no need for additional support for a 12’ sled.
Glen is still going to need to support both ends. For me, it is more work to move slider back for every board. Pushing the sled is not that hard. So for me a locked slider is less stress.
Imran? On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:44 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ?The sled itself will need to be roughly 16 foot long, it’s not a “partial sled”, I didn’t say that in my previous post, ?but you don’t lock the sliding table into one position and then slide the sled the full 16’ on top of the slider. You pull the slider back, slide the sled back 3-4 foot to get to the end, push the slider the distance it will travel, then slide the sled for the remaining 3-4 foot overhang to get thru the length of material. Now that’s assuming you have roughly 9-10 foot of travel. The little 78” stroke machines… don’t think it’s going to be easy to do 16’ as the over hang movement gets to be like 5 foot or more at each end.
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16’ material with a 6’ or 7’ sled on a 10’ slider.
Imran On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ?You guys do realize you don’t need to slide this jig for 16’. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9’ slider, you need 3.5’ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16’. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12’ long inset. So if you like two 8’ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8’ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16’ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2” spacers. Being 12’ long I added 4’ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4” thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1” thick wood between plys. It is about 14” wide. I do have two ~2” wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76” on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10’ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16’ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3’ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Correct and thanks.? I tried to bring the waterfall grain from the top edges all the way to the base, including the pulls.? The whole thing is veneered so that was doable.
Thanks to COVID, I had plenty of time to work on it.
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Scott,
Very nice. I seem to always fumble a bit with the slider nut. Also big squeeze handle swings out of the body line by over 2”. For my space I wanted BS body close to wall. BS naturally hangs 60 deg from vertical so that is what I did.
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 10:57 PM, scott.charmack <scharmac@...> wrote: ?Hopefully the third time is the charm. ?Show is the simple clamp rack make from scrap wood for Mac's clamps. ?Sorry for the two unforced errors. <IMG_0640.jpg>
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Hopefully the third time is the charm. ?Show is the simple clamp rack make from scrap wood for Mac's clamps. ?Sorry for the two unforced errors. 
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Le t me try and include the picture of the clamp holder again.
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Jim
Very nice, I like your attention to grain matching. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
Here is a recent veneered chest using sycamore with walnut, both quarter sawn.
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Re: Straightlining lumber
As Brian described it is exactly how I am going to have to do it, I plan to use my hydraulic carts at each end to carry the load of the template and stock. Or so I think, Maybe there won't be enough sag to be a problem , I don't know until I try it. I think the biggest problem is that my track guide may pop out of the slot. This weekend I am going to just build and experiment a straight slot guide to doing your T slot version I have a unit of siding here a can experement with a few boars and re order what I stole from his order. Glen ? ? Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 5:05 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brian,
Thanks, sorry I got excited and read into it.
Since my sled slides easy and I did need to support sled over hanging the 78” slider it was easier to lock table and setup stands at infeed and outfeed.
Have not used the sled on my 10’ slider and definitely no need for additional support for a 12’ sled.
Glen is still going to need to support both ends. For me, it is more work to move slider back for every board. Pushing the sled is not that hard. So for me a locked slider is less stress.
Imran? On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:44 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ?The sled itself will need to be roughly 16 foot long, it’s not a “partial sled”, I didn’t say that in my previous post, ?but you don’t lock the sliding table into one position and then slide the sled the full 16’ on top of the slider. You pull the slider back, slide the sled back 3-4 foot to get to the end, push the slider the distance it will travel, then slide the sled for the remaining 3-4 foot overhang to get thru the length of material. Now that’s assuming you have roughly 9-10 foot of travel. The little 78” stroke machines… don’t think it’s going to be easy to do 16’ as the over hang movement gets to be like 5 foot or more at each end.
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16’ material with a 6’ or 7’ sled on a 10’ slider.
Imran On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ?You guys do realize you don’t need to slide this jig for 16’. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9’ slider, you need 3.5’ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16’. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12’ long inset. So if you like two 8’ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8’ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16’ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2” spacers. Being 12’ long I added 4’ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4” thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1” thick wood between plys. It is about 14” wide. I do have two ~2” wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76” on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10’ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16’ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3’ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 01:42 PM, Marc Evans wrote:
All OTS. I’ll try to take closeup pics later
Thanks, Bill
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Brian,
Thanks, sorry I got excited and read into it.
Since my sled slides easy and I did need to support sled over hanging the 78” slider it was easier to lock table and setup stands at infeed and outfeed.
Have not used the sled on my 10’ slider and definitely no need for additional support for a 12’ sled.
Glen is still going to need to support both ends. For me, it is more work to move slider back for every board. Pushing the sled is not that hard. So for me a locked slider is less stress.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:44 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? The sled itself will need to be roughly 16 foot long, it’s not a “partial sled”, I didn’t say that in my previous post, ?but you don’t lock the sliding table into one position and then slide the sled the full 16’ on top of the slider. You pull the slider back, slide the sled back 3-4 foot to get to the end, push the slider the distance it will travel, then slide the sled for the remaining 3-4 foot overhang to get thru the length of material. Now that’s assuming you have roughly 9-10 foot of travel. The little 78” stroke machines… don’t think it’s going to be easy to do 16’ as the over hang movement gets to be like 5 foot or more at each end.
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16’ material with a 6’ or 7’ sled on a 10’ slider.
Imran On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? You guys do realize you don’t need to slide this jig for 16’. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9’ slider, you need 3.5’ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16’. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12’ long inset. So if you like two 8’ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8’ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16’ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2” spacers. Being 12’ long I added 4’ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4” thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1” thick wood between plys. It is about 14” wide. I do have two ~2” wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76” on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10’ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16’ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3’ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
The sled itself will need to be roughly 16 foot long, it’s not a “partial sled”, I didn’t say that in my previous post, ?but you don’t lock the sliding table into one position and then slide the sled the full 16’ on top of the slider. You pull the slider back, slide the sled back 3-4 foot to get to the end, push the slider the distance it will travel, then slide the sled for the remaining 3-4 foot overhang to get thru the length of material. Now that’s assuming you have roughly 9-10 foot of travel. The little 78” stroke machines… don’t think it’s going to be easy to do 16’ as the over hang movement gets to be like 5 foot or more at each end.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16’ material with a 6’ or 7’ sled on a 10’ slider.
Imran On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? You guys do realize you don’t need to slide this jig for 16’. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9’ slider, you need 3.5’ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16’. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12’ long inset. So if you like two 8’ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8’ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16’ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2” spacers. Being 12’ long I added 4’ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4” thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1” thick wood between plys. It is about 14” wide. I do have two ~2” wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76” on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10’ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16’ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3’ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
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Re: Straightlining lumber
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16’ material with a 6’ or 7’ sled on a 10’ slider.
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? You guys do realize you don’t need to slide this jig for 16’. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9’ slider, you need 3.5’ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16’. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12’ long inset. So if you like two 8’ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8’ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16’ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2” spacers. Being 12’ long I added 4’ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4” thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1” thick wood between plys. It is about 14” wide. I do have two ~2” wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76” on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10’ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16’ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3’ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Hi Scott,
The pic is not coming thru for some reason. I tried the website as well.
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 6:38 PM, scott.charmack <scharmac@...> wrote: ?Imran, I have Mac's clamps and made a simple clamp holder out of scrap wood. ?I don't use it that often, but when needed it it quick, sturdy and protects the clamp. ? Scott
<Clamp Holder Pic>
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Jim,
As all of your pieces that I have seen, absolutely stunning. I assume the front bottom apron is veneered with vertical grain walnut.
Inspiring !!!
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:24 PM, Jim Fleming <jameshfleming@...> wrote: ? Here is a recent veneered chest using sycamore with walnut, both quarter sawn.
<20210210_134939.jpg>
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Imran, I have Mac's clamps and made a simple clamp holder out of scrap wood. ?I don't use it that often, but when needed it it quick, sturdy and protects the clamp. ?
Scott
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Jason Holtz
Jim Fleming
imran
