Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Jim
Very nice, I like your attention to grain matching. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
Here is a recent veneered chest using sycamore with walnut, both quarter sawn.
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Re: Straightlining lumber
As Brian described it is exactly how I am going to have to do it, I plan to use my hydraulic carts at each end to carry the load of the template and stock. Or so I think, Maybe there won't be enough sag to be a problem , I don't know until I try it. I think the biggest problem is that my track guide may pop out of the slot. This weekend I am going to just build and experiment a straight slot guide to doing your T slot version I have a unit of siding here a can experement with a few boars and re order what I stole from his order. Glen ? ? Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 5:05 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brian,
Thanks, sorry I got excited and read into it.
Since my sled slides easy and I did need to support sled over hanging the 78¡± slider it was easier to lock table and setup stands at infeed and outfeed.
Have not used the sled on my 10¡¯ slider and definitely no need for additional support for a 12¡¯ sled.
Glen is still going to need to support both ends. For me, it is more work to move slider back for every board. Pushing the sled is not that hard. So for me a locked slider is less stress.
Imran? On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:44 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ?The sled itself will need to be roughly 16 foot long, it¡¯s not a ¡°partial sled¡±, I didn¡¯t say that in my previous post, ?but you don¡¯t lock the sliding table into one position and then slide the sled the full 16¡¯ on top of the slider. You pull the slider back, slide the sled back 3-4 foot to get to the end, push the slider the distance it will travel, then slide the sled for the remaining 3-4 foot overhang to get thru the length of material. Now that¡¯s assuming you have roughly 9-10 foot of travel. The little 78¡± stroke machines¡ don¡¯t think it¡¯s going to be easy to do 16¡¯ as the over hang movement gets to be like 5 foot or more at each end.
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16¡¯ material with a 6¡¯ or 7¡¯ sled on a 10¡¯ slider.
Imran On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ?You guys do realize you don¡¯t need to slide this jig for 16¡¯. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9¡¯ slider, you need 3.5¡¯ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16¡¯. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12¡¯ long inset. So if you like two 8¡¯ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8¡¯ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
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On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 01:42 PM, Marc Evans wrote:
All OTS. I¡¯ll try to take closeup pics later
Thanks, Bill
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Brian,
Thanks, sorry I got excited and read into it.
Since my sled slides easy and I did need to support sled over hanging the 78¡± slider it was easier to lock table and setup stands at infeed and outfeed.
Have not used the sled on my 10¡¯ slider and definitely no need for additional support for a 12¡¯ sled.
Glen is still going to need to support both ends. For me, it is more work to move slider back for every board. Pushing the sled is not that hard. So for me a locked slider is less stress.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:44 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? The sled itself will need to be roughly 16 foot long, it¡¯s not a ¡°partial sled¡±, I didn¡¯t say that in my previous post, ?but you don¡¯t lock the sliding table into one position and then slide the sled the full 16¡¯ on top of the slider. You pull the slider back, slide the sled back 3-4 foot to get to the end, push the slider the distance it will travel, then slide the sled for the remaining 3-4 foot overhang to get thru the length of material. Now that¡¯s assuming you have roughly 9-10 foot of travel. The little 78¡± stroke machines¡ don¡¯t think it¡¯s going to be easy to do 16¡¯ as the over hang movement gets to be like 5 foot or more at each end.
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16¡¯ material with a 6¡¯ or 7¡¯ sled on a 10¡¯ slider.
Imran On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? You guys do realize you don¡¯t need to slide this jig for 16¡¯. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9¡¯ slider, you need 3.5¡¯ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16¡¯. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12¡¯ long inset. So if you like two 8¡¯ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8¡¯ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
The sled itself will need to be roughly 16 foot long, it¡¯s not a ¡°partial sled¡±, I didn¡¯t say that in my previous post, ?but you don¡¯t lock the sliding table into one position and then slide the sled the full 16¡¯ on top of the slider. You pull the slider back, slide the sled back 3-4 foot to get to the end, push the slider the distance it will travel, then slide the sled for the remaining 3-4 foot overhang to get thru the length of material. Now that¡¯s assuming you have roughly 9-10 foot of travel. The little 78¡± stroke machines¡ don¡¯t think it¡¯s going to be easy to do 16¡¯ as the over hang movement gets to be like 5 foot or more at each end.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16¡¯ material with a 6¡¯ or 7¡¯ sled on a 10¡¯ slider.
Imran On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: ? You guys do realize you don¡¯t need to slide this jig for 16¡¯. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9¡¯ slider, you need 3.5¡¯ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16¡¯. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12¡¯ long inset. So if you like two 8¡¯ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8¡¯ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Brian,
I am sorry but being my usual thick self, I do not know how to use a partial sled. Would you please explain how I can SLR 16¡¯ material with a 6¡¯ or 7¡¯ sled on a 10¡¯ slider.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:00 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? You guys do realize you don¡¯t need to slide this jig for 16¡¯. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9¡¯ slider, you need 3.5¡¯ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16¡¯. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12¡¯ long inset. So if you like two 8¡¯ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8¡¯ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Hi Scott,
The pic is not coming thru for some reason. I tried the website as well.
Imran
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Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 6:38 PM, scott.charmack <scharmac@...> wrote: ?Imran, I have Mac's clamps and made a simple clamp holder out of scrap wood. ?I don't use it that often, but when needed it it quick, sturdy and protects the clamp. ? Scott
<Clamp Holder Pic>
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Jim,
As all of your pieces that I have seen, absolutely stunning. I assume the front bottom apron is veneered with vertical grain walnut.
Inspiring !!!
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 5:24 PM, Jim Fleming <jameshfleming@...> wrote: ? Here is a recent veneered chest using sycamore with walnut, both quarter sawn.
<20210210_134939.jpg>
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Imran, I have Mac's clamps and made a simple clamp holder out of scrap wood. ?I don't use it that often, but when needed it it quick, sturdy and protects the clamp. ?
Scott
|
I would look to the start Capacitor.? It's cheap to replace
capacitors.
On 3/24/21 7:29 AM, Craig.roberts via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
Hi everyone I hope you can assist me?
I have not used my jointer planer for some time and my workshop is
quite cold.
When I try start my jointer planer by holding in the start button
(its single phase) the cutter block turns but does not get up to
speed (even after 20sec)
any ideas what the problem may be?
I have tried to grease the cutter block bearings
perhaps it needs a strip down clean and proper greasing
would appreciate any suggestions
Ive got a garden gate to build and need the planer functional asap
rest of the machine (saw etc) is working perfectly
thanks in advance?
Craig
|
Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
Here is a recent veneered chest using sycamore with walnut, both quarter sawn.
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Brian, You are correct my slider is 10'-6" I really am only sliding it 5 1/2 feet. maybe I am overthinking this. I am just going to build it and see what happens. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 2:00 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: You guys do realize you don¡¯t need to slide this jig for 16¡¯. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9¡¯ slider, you need 3.5¡¯ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16¡¯. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12¡¯ long inset. So if you like two 8¡¯ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8¡¯ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Imran, Let me kick that around . The cdx was for the curve form, I got ac for the sled. About lumber pricing here CDX is now 62 bucks
AC is 53? go figure, I really am thinking about going back and buying the rest of the unit. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:59 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
Since you are beefing up the CDX, for the dovetails you could consider going with fixed insert in the slider slot and a dado in the sled.
BTW, is CDX flat enough?
Lastly, I was going to have the straightest traveling sled in the world so I used 2 inserts because my slider has 2 slots. I made my inserts just the right size and it had too much resistance. After ensuring that sled was not being pinched (anti lift can do that if middle part is not tall enough), I figured there must be too much resistance against side walls. That is why you see the saw kerfs in pic I shared earlier. They did not do anything. Finally, I just removed one of the two inserts and it ran fine.
I had to cut a slot in my slider handle on account of longish slider nut for the clamp. It almost cut deep enough to expose the cavity. I think there is a pinhole. May not be a bad idea to fill up the cavity a bit with epoxy before cutting the slot.
Imran ? Hi Irman, I kinda wanted to do the tslot version to eliminate lift issues, But I get your point that it will be harder to insert. I wanted to screw from the bottom but that is going to be hard but maybe putting the board in the slot and pinning the plywood to it and screw from the bottom as it comes out of the slider? I see one major problem is that to get a good thickness on the wood strip, It will hit my push handle on the slider. I hate to hack out a notch in it but I think I am going to have too. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:14 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
You guys do realize you don¡¯t need to slide this jig for 16¡¯. You need whatever you slider length is, and then only move the jig the amount extra. So if you have a 9¡¯ slider, you need 3.5¡¯ of slide at each end of the stroke to cover the full 16¡¯. You use a combination of the slider movement and the jig movement, kind of like a full extension Accuride slide.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12¡¯ long inset. So if you like two 8¡¯ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8¡¯ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Glen,
Since you are beefing up the CDX, for the dovetails you could consider going with fixed insert in the slider slot and a dado in the sled.
BTW, is CDX flat enough?
Lastly, I was going to have the straightest traveling sled in the world so I used 2 inserts because my slider has 2 slots. I made my inserts just the right size and it had too much resistance. After ensuring that sled was not being pinched (anti lift can do that if middle part is not tall enough), I figured there must be too much resistance against side walls. That is why you see the saw kerfs in pic I shared earlier. They did not do anything. Finally, I just removed one of the two inserts and it ran fine.
I had to cut a slot in my slider handle on account of longish slider nut for the clamp. It almost cut deep enough to expose the cavity. I think there is a pinhole. May not be a bad idea to fill up the cavity a bit with epoxy before cutting the slot.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 4:34 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote: ? Hi Irman, I kinda wanted to do the tslot version to eliminate lift issues, But I get your point that it will be harder to insert. I wanted to screw from the bottom but that is going to be hard but maybe putting the board in the slot and pinning the plywood to it and screw from the bottom as it comes out of the slider? I see one major problem is that to get a good thickness on the wood strip, It will hit my push handle on the slider. I hate to hack out a notch in it but I think I am going to have too. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:14 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Imran
Thanks, That is route I will go. Any thoughts on the handle issue, maybe you have a different handle and you don't have that issue.
I was going to try and modify it but the fact that I have the start buttons and macs clamps in there I don't think that will be an option. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:38 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12¡¯ long inset. So if you like two 8¡¯ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8¡¯ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran? On Mar 24, 2021, at 4:14 PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Glen,
I should have added that any hardwood should work. My Sycamore is not even kiln dried. As you already know, Qtr sawn white oak is likely the best choice but not necessarily needed. If the strip does not go wild on you and slides in slider without resistance even though it has a slight bend it should be fine once secured. BTW, I do not have a continuous 12¡¯ long inset. So if you like two 8¡¯ long pieces should suffice.
Also, I would secure the middle 8¡¯ of the insert to the sled and then pull the sled and insert in one direction to secure the rest, repeat in the other direction.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 4:14 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran
On Mar 24, 2021, at 3:59 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Hi Irman, I kinda wanted to do the tslot version to eliminate lift issues, But I get your point that it will be harder to insert. I wanted to screw from the bottom but that is going to be hard but maybe putting the board in the slot and pinning the plywood to it and screw from the bottom as it comes out of the slider? I see one major problem is that to get a good thickness on the wood strip, It will hit my push handle on the slider. I hate to hack out a notch in it but I think I am going to have too. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:14 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran
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Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 3:59 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote: ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Re: Straightlining lumber
Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
imran
Jim Fleming
