Re: Straightlining lumber
Brett, TypicallyI get the same as you but in this case its all in the rough. I dont think handling will be to hard in my case as I can fork lift the unit in behind the saw, I have adjustable carts that I can put one on each end to support the sled and park the forklift on the out feed side to stack directly on then spin the pile and repeat the process. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
Glen,?
Are you getting S1S? I buy my quantity lumber at minimum 1-side straightlined and hit-and-miss planed. Plus I find I can stack it easier and the price is insignificant compared?to the confidence I get in better yield per board.?
Having had to do 16'+ length T+G recently myself, I opted this method (mind you one side was bought straight-lined already):
1. Use expanding roller tables on outfeed?side to carry the long boards off the saw.?
2. Use flat tables on my rolling carts to support infeed so it didn't sag/bow
3. HAND FEED right side of the blade with rip fence. The riving knife?protecting the boards after the cut.
4. Don't worry about saw kerf marks, when processing the T or G, the cutters clean them off anyway.?
5. Stand board on edge to verify plane.
6. Repeat.
7.?
Handling 16'+ boards around slider clamps, ceiling heights, over-saw dust shrouds, and possibly having to flip them when you realized you lined them up wrong will get very tedious after the 2nd board. Then carrying them to and from the stack.You will then say to yourself "there's got to be a better way".
BETTER METHOD:
1. If you have a Festool track saw and enough track (or a jig) to make the length, use it. In a pinch I've used metal studs clamped together or a stick or Timberstrand LSL, way cheaper than Festool rails if you need to be creative, but it won't demonstrate where the cut will be before you cut it like the guide rails, so you might want to make a set of guide blocks to aid setup if you go that route.
2. It's not really "better quality" than your slider, but it's acceptable and way easier steps. You can basically slide one board off the side of the stack enough to clear the kerf, chop it, and side-slide it into a new stack, maybe even leaving the whole mess on your trailer without fully unloading or having to pick up the weight of a full board.
3. Drive to the buddie's house, with a case of beer for you and him.
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Straightlining lumber
Lason, He does but since he is doing this to help me get the job, I really don't want to take his time for straightening . I really would like to try it on the saw but I might change my mind after 20 or so boards. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 2:53 AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: SLR saw for sure. Doesn't your buddy have one? Most people who have a moulder do. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Straightlining lumber
Thanks Jonathan, That's kinda of what I envisioned, I do like the clap idea , That was my next question Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 12:04 AM Jonathan Martens < jonathan@...> wrote:
ROTFLOL
I think this YouTube video does an excellent job:?
Yikes!?
A board for the jig wider than your work so you can setup some stop blocks or a fence??
You're welcome. Good luck!?
Kind regards,?
Jonathan?
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All OTS. I¡¯ll try to take closeup pics later
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 9:27 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:
?On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 11:14 AM, Marc Evans wrote:
The sawstop mobile base fit perfect in width, but needed to be lengthened and reinforced with some angle and rectangular steel
Marc, Were you able to find off the shelve steel L beams and other brackets or you did have to make custom steel parts? I looked at this base for a long time, but I have never seen anyone modifying it the way you did. Bill
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Re: Storing Big Squeeze Clamp
If you are not familiar with Sycamore it has a beautiful fleck pattern. Here is an example:
Also finished replacing the top hanger. All done.
Imran
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On Mar 22, 2021, at 2:16 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? Thanks David. Following worked out for my case. Left over cleat material from mantle. Used chamfer to my advantage. The lever settle down in groove so one has to raise it for removal.?Master clamp (bottom) required a 1 1/16¡± thick block in back to accommodate pressure gauge.
I will replace the top hanging block (first try) with a longer one like I used for lower clamp.
Imran
On Mar 22, 2021, at 5:36 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Imran,
Big Squeeze storage:
I am thinking of making something to hang BS clamps on the wall. Got a few ideas in my head but thought I ask here.
If you have already done so and are willing to share your approach, that would be awesome ?
Imran
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On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 11:14 AM, Marc Evans wrote:
The sawstop mobile base fit perfect in width, but needed to be lengthened and reinforced with some angle and rectangular steel
Marc, Were you able to find off the shelve steel L beams and other brackets or you did have to make custom steel parts? I looked at this base for a long time, but I have never seen anyone modifying it the way you did. Bill
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right? that pallet is insane. I have about five small to medium size pallets now piled up in my driveway. What do people do, should i throw them up on craigslist or facebook for free? I have no desire to pull the nails out or use them in really any way.?
That¡¯s a nice mobile base! yeah i would love a way to pull it straight out, so i could leave it in a pocket against the wall in this 1 1/2 car garage, but not sure the best place to position it in the end. It¡¯s mknda landed right in the middle of the floor, and i fan easily scoot it 90 degrees or over a bit here or there, and maybe that¡¯s the best.?
Got the machine turned on and it works like a charm right out of the box. Curious if people have a checklist of things - tried to follow along with the manual the best i could, but with the customization (helical head and power drive) and that the manual covered other similiar machines i wasn¡¯t sure if i got everything. But basically seems to be great.?
I¡¯m going to get a couple more of the rockler Dust Roght fittings for it, which have a big handle to put the dust collector hose on and move it around from machine to machine
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The sawstop mobile base fit perfect in width, but needed to be lengthened and reinforced with some angle and rectangular steel. ?(I think the base is rated for 1200lbs maybe). The pump lifts it fine to 4 swivel casters and sets firmly down. It takes some effort to roll, but I have all degrees of freedom.?
To get J/P off pallet and on the base, I used a chain hoist over a large beam. I used the steel hold-downs that are used by fielder in shipping to hook the J/P body to the pallet. ?I hooked them in reverse in the same slots in the J/P base and used straps to the hoist. ?
Wish I had pictures. It was easy to do alone this way.?
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 8:33 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Also are those wheels all 4-swivel? Or 2 fixed and 2 swivel? Marc...what was the process you went through to get the JP onto the mobile base?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Also are those wheels all 4-swivel? Or 2 fixed and 2 swivel?
Marc...what was the process you went through to get the JP onto the mobile base?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Thanks everyone. I knew it was safe but since I hate avoidable rework I wanted to be sure.
Shinta, yup your post got me going to do this. I just do not care of the mobile base I got from rockler. Even though, I believe, I have found it¡¯s resting place? it is best to make it movable. Plus I get to try my glue joint cutter before I use it for the door project.
(proper limiter has been ordered thru Felder)
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 11:04 AM, Shinta Wakahisa via groups.io <vnh84@...> wrote: ?My FB710 (900 lbs) sits on 2x4 douglas fir and plywood base, material from another machine's shipping crate and built to fit a narrow-fork pallet jack.? I think you saw the pictures I posted in another thread of the base.? Douglas fir's parallel-to-grain compression strength is about 1700 psi (source: engineeringtoolbox.com) .? After 1 year, the base has no visible change or deformity.??
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My FB710 (900 lbs) sits on 2x4 douglas fir and plywood base, material from another machine's shipping crate and built to fit a narrow-fork pallet jack.? I think you saw the pictures I posted in another thread of the base.? Douglas fir's parallel-to-grain compression strength is about 1700 psi (source: engineeringtoolbox.com) .? After 1 year, the base has no visible change or deformity.??
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Re: Kids and the Workshop - Funny Story
Annu...great story...them kids sometimes can surprise you!? My K700S on order will not have the DRO, and now after seeing Brian's products am wondering if I should install post delivery...ugh, again, every time I come here I learn of new "toys" and that I "need" ;).??
KRPatel
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My 2000 lb bandsaw is on 4x6.? There is nothing precision enough on a small bandsaw for a wood base to be a problem.? Dave
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Hey Imran...only thing I would be concerned about is the softness of the wood and stability over time (twisting, cracking, shrinkage...) given the weight of the BS and time.
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Hey Imran...only thing I would be concerned about is the softness of the wood and stability over time (twisting, cracking, shrinkage...) given the weight of the BS and time.
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Marc...what was the process you went through to get the JP onto the mobile base?
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Craig,
BTW capacitance can drop 10-40% depending upon low or high temp. You may trying warming the capacitor with hair dryer (from distance) just enough and give it a try. Assuming, J/P has it¡¯s own caps.
If the caps are common then check wires from caps to J/P motor. Long shot but something you got to do to eliminate fault sources.
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 9:36 AM, Craig.roberts via groups.io <Craig.roberts@...> wrote: ?Hi everyone I hope you can assist me?
I have not used my jointer planer for some time and my workshop is quite cold.
When I try start my jointer planer by holding in the start button (its single phase) the cutter block turns but does not get up to speed (even after 20sec)
any ideas what the problem may be?
I have tried to grease the cutter block bearings
perhaps it needs a strip down clean and proper greasing
would appreciate any suggestions
Ive got a garden gate to build and need the planer functional asap
rest of the machine (saw etc) is working perfectly
thanks in advance?
Craig
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Craig,
From posts here some CF series multi function machines share start/run caps. I am not sure about your vintage machine.
If you can tell that J/P motor has it¡¯s own caps separate from saw motor than that would be my first thing to check/replace.
Imran
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 9:36 AM, Craig.roberts via groups.io <Craig.roberts@...> wrote: ?Hi everyone I hope you can assist me?
I have not used my jointer planer for some time and my workshop is quite cold.
When I try start my jointer planer by holding in the start button (its single phase) the cutter block turns but does not get up to speed (even after 20sec)
any ideas what the problem may be?
I have tried to grease the cutter block bearings
perhaps it needs a strip down clean and proper greasing
would appreciate any suggestions
Ive got a garden gate to build and need the planer functional asap
rest of the machine (saw etc) is working perfectly
thanks in advance?
Craig
|
Hi everyone I hope you can assist me?
I have not used my jointer planer for some time and my workshop is quite cold.
When I try start my jointer planer by holding in the start button (its single phase) the cutter block turns but does not get up to speed (even after 20sec)
any ideas what the problem may be?
I have tried to grease the cutter block bearings
perhaps it needs a strip down clean and proper greasing
would appreciate any suggestions
Ive got a garden gate to build and need the planer functional asap
rest of the machine (saw etc) is working perfectly
thanks in advance?
Craig
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Re: PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?
Oh! if Corey at Axiom is right, they have moved on to Yellow for 60 duro. Must be a change for spring of 2021 collection.
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On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:49 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? Very Funny. Did you edit that?
On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:41 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Imran:
I stopped using Western Roller because they have their own proprietary hubs that limit tire width. They do not recover OEM hubs. ?Axion will recover anything. ?I specify durometer by color. ?Dark blue is the hardest, burgundy in the middle, tan is softer. ?Mauve is about right for the jointer. ? David Best - via mobile phone? ? Lucky, David or anyone else,
No disagreement on technique. Do either of you have a recommendation on durometer for PF wheels?
60 has been recommended here but wanted to get clarification if 60 is good for both shaper and jointer?
BTW, Western roller offers?40, 50, 60, 70, 75, 85 and 95 Duro Shore A
Imran ? I¡¯m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn¡¯t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I¡¯ve done lots of 16¡± wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.
On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi Imran: There is a common misperception that ¡°minimum down force¡± is desirable for a jointer. I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results. Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board¡¯s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results). For scenarios where the jointer¡¯s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer¡¯s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there¡¯s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup ¡ª concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually. This process prepares the worst boards to a ¡°flatness¡± that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here. Minimum down force is irrelevant. Warm regards, David Lucky On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website
Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?
Imran
On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.
I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?
Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.
If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.
Imran
<image0.jpeg>
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Re: PF Wheel Durometer for Shaper and Jointer?
Very Funny. Did you edit that?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 7:41 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Imran:
I stopped using Western Roller because they have their own proprietary hubs that limit tire width. They do not recover OEM hubs. ?Axion will recover anything. ?I specify durometer by color. ?Dark blue is the hardest, burgundy in the middle, tan is softer. ?Mauve is about right for the jointer. ? David Best - via mobile phone? ? Lucky, David or anyone else,
No disagreement on technique. Do either of you have a recommendation on durometer for PF wheels?
60 has been recommended here but wanted to get clarification if 60 is good for both shaper and jointer?
BTW, Western roller offers?40, 50, 60, 70, 75, 85 and 95 Duro Shore A
Imran ? I¡¯m with Lucky on this. ?For rough material, I first lay it on the sliding table of the saw, and check the amount of twist and bow. ?If the twist is under 3mm and the board lays flat, I set the jointer to 3+mm depth of cut, set the feeder over the outfeed table and adjust the height for 4mm of expected upward wheel displacement, and let it rip. ?Say the rough material is 25mm, I set the feeder tires 18-19mm above the outfeed table, infeed table to 3mm DOC. ?One pass, plenty of downward force on the outfeed table, and the board is ready for the thicknesser. ?Light forces with multiple shallow passes isn¡¯t going to get the surface flat. ?If the material has more than 3mm twist, I cut it into shorter pieces or work off the high corners with a scrub plane first. ?The outfeed table has to be slick - I use Waxlit on top of Renaissance wax on the tables. ? This is one reason I optioned my Dual 51 with a 13HP motor, and I¡¯ve done lots of 16¡± wide cherry in this manner. ? For thicker rough material (12/4 Oak for instance), I pay equal attention to bow and twist, and if the bow is substantial, with convex side down, bring down thickness at both ends, stopping part way through, then doing end-for-end swap, until the bow is less than 2mm or so, then revert to the process mentioned above.
On Mar 21, 2021, at 2:42 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi Imran: There is a common misperception that ¡°minimum down force¡± is desirable for a jointer. I think this is wrong thinking arising from users who take many light passes to flatten a board. In such a scenario, where a light pass is taken that does not flatten a board all-at-once, the board being machined would not rest flat against the outfeed table, and therefore be forced flat under the feeder, only to spring back afterwards. This leads to frustrating results. Best practice for jointer machinists, using a feeder, is to set the depth of cut to flatten the board all-at-once, to approx 75% of the board¡¯s surface. This achieves a flat board very quickly, and good down pressure can be used with the feeder. This is safer (no slip) and the results are superior (i.e. flat, consistent results). For scenarios where the jointer¡¯s capacity is not up to the job (e.g. minimal horsepower, or the cup/bow/twist is beyond the jointer¡¯s maximum depth of cut), then the offending board should be machined partially by hand, by moving the feeder aside (or working beside the feeder if there¡¯s space) and machining part way along the ends (twist or bow), or pushing the board all the way through (cup ¡ª concave side down). The former is done easily by pushing a board through say 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, then lifting the board off the cutterhead, swapping end for end, and machining 1/4 to 1/3 of the other end, to eliminate most of the twist or bow. The latter is easy enough to do, even for large boards, because most of the board is not engaged in the cut (only the outer edges of the cupped board), and so can be pushed through manually. This process prepares the worst boards to a ¡°flatness¡± that allows the feeder to be used for that single, final feeder pass, which gets the board flat. By the way, short boards, say 600mm or shorter, which cannot be flattened all-at-once, should be discarded from the shop and project, or they should be partially flattened by hand (scrub plane). Short boards should not be partially machined by hand in the above manner, as the operator is working too close to the cutter head. User discretion required here. Minimum down force is irrelevant. Warm regards, David Lucky On 21 Mar 2021, at 11:21 pm, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Apparently, a modification is offered by Western Roller where a belt can be installed on PF - pic from their website
Would this work better on PF for jointer where one wants minimum down force?
Imran
On Mar 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?There are lots of msgs here and it appears durometer 60 is the most common recommendation. However, I saw durometer 50 is also available.
I need to replace wheels on shaper and jointer PF. Both have factory wheels. What is the durometer recommendation?
Axiom Industries and Western Roller Corp are the 2 places recommended.
If we have a sort on consensus, I can create a hashtag msg with details so it is easy to find.
Imran
<image0.jpeg>
|
imran