Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
Progress! ?Have to confess I¡¯m always dubious about statements such as Apparently plus or minus 5% voltage or anything less than a 2.5mm extension cable and your capacitors are at risk of blowing. ?Almost the status of urban myth IMO. ?Also, companies have a?¡®cheap¡¯ habit of using he lowest voltage capacitor that they can get away with whereas installing one with a higher voltage rating would eliminate such vagaries as ¡®plus or minus 5% !
Fingers crossed.?
ATB
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Thanks Roger,
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Sorry, I was referring to the mains fuse board re. trip switches. Machine dead. Electrician has confirmed power is going to machine.
Irish Felder agent diagnosed blown capacitor and brake board, parts being couriered today. Apparently plus or minus 5% voltage or anything less than a 2.5mm extension cable and your capacitors are at risk of blowing.
I know how to remove the control box.
Will update you once I have fitted new parts.
Regards,
Trevor
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
Thanks Roger,
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Sorry, I was referring to the mains fuse board re. trip switches. Machine dead. Electrician has confirmed power is going to machine.
Irish Felder agent diagnosed blown capacitor and brake board, parts being couriered today. Apparently plus or minus 5% voltage or anything less than a 2.5mm extension cable and your capacitors are at risk of blowing.
I know how to remove the control box.
Will update you once I have fitted new parts.
Regards,
Trevor
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On 22/02/2021 05:34, Glen Christensen wrote: " Vestil is far superior for the money. And if you get the air over hydraulic it is night and day"
Crap did not know they had air powered. Not sure on the US prize for a FAT300 but here in The Netherlands, even with VAT included with most expansive top and list price, a FAT 300 with the is still cheaper than the Vestil AIR-2000 w/o VAT. Although I like the idea of the air connection of Vestil it might be more fuss to connect/disconnect the airline when moving the cart. Regards, Jonathan
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
When you say ¡¯No power going to the machine¡¯. ¡that doesn¡¯t fit with ¡°all the trip switches were in the correct position¡±.?
There is just one pair of start/run capacitors (one of each) and they are connected to whichever motor has been selected via the function switch.?
Is your machine totally dead ? ? Do you know how to remove the control box ? ?
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The crack came from the C3 31. At first I thought it was the mains fuse board ( as previously the board had been tripping a lot)
but when I checked all the trip switches were in the correct position.
There was no power going to the machine.
Single phase.
Based in West Cork Ireland.
Thank you for your help.
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
The crack came from the C3 31. At first I thought it was the mains fuse board ( as previously the board had been tripping a lot)
but when I checked all the trip switches were in the correct position.
There was no power going to the machine.
Single phase.
Based in West Cork Ireland.
Thank you for your help.
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
Trevor
When you say I heard a sharp crack and that was the power gone. ? The sharp crack came from the C3 31 ? ? ??¡°Power gone¡±¡do you mean that your circuit breaker tripped ? ?Or that the machine has power but won¡¯t run.
Are you single-phase or three-phase ?
Lastly, are you US or UK based ¡just that I can use the right terminology !
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We moved home last September. My machine went into storage and the store got very damp over the winter. Enough to cover the tables with a light coating of red rust.
I cleaned the tables and planned some timber this week. I noticed that I didn't hear the buzzing sound that occurs ?when you stop the machine or switch between functions.
After running the planner for a couple of hours, I was clearing up the mess and cross cutting some really light kindling when I heard a sharp crack and that was the power gone.
Any ideas or help as to what to do next to trace the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Trevor Lusty
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What is a 32" Northfield bandsaw be worth?? I will call Northfield monday with the serial number to check the age. Looks relatively new.? 5HP direct drive motor.
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The saw DE is sorted, the A3 I want to put against a wall and pull out as needed and use an overhead boom to connect the DE to it. The Timken Taper bearings are a way better way to articulate it and are adjustable which is a plus and the ones used in the front hubs of cars are as cheap as dirt which is another plus. The same connection could be used on the router table I started to build about 3 years ago which will be on wheels as well. Front wheel drive cars don't use them at all.?
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
Thanks Steve.
Imran, I think that you are right on the money, as I was fairly sure that that blade wasn't stopping under breaking as before, but as it had been several month's since I last used the machine I wasn't absolutely sure.
Thank you.
Trevor
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
If it is a single phase machine you could have popped the start/run capacitor. I recently experienced it on my band saw and it made smoke instead of sound. Are you getting breaking function? Usually the buzzing is associated with breaking. Every machine is different but Felder recently advised (when I replaced only a 16 month old break board) to never restart the machine until the saw of cutterhead has completely stopped. I would imagine it would also be good to not switch functions until the motor has come to a complete stopped. ? I am not familiar with your machine but the caps may be shared and if so they are in the electrical section of the machine. As is often stated here, call Felder before accessing the electrical area, if your machine is under warranty. ? Imran ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Trevor Lusty Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2021 4:59 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [FOG] C3 31 Electrical problem ? We moved home last September. My machine went into storage and the store got very damp over the winter. Enough to cover the tables with a light coating of red rust.
I cleaned the tables and planned some timber this week. I noticed that I didn't hear the buzzing sound that occurs ?when you stop the machine or switch between functions.
After running the planner for a couple of hours, I was clearing up the mess and cross cutting some really light kindling when I heard a sharp crack and that was the power gone.
Any ideas or help as to what to do next to trace the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Trevor Lusty
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Re: C3 31 Electrical problem
Most likely a capacitor blew up.
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On Feb 28, 2021, at 4:59 PM, Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:
?We moved home last September. My machine went into storage and the store got very damp over the winter. Enough to cover the tables with a light coating of red rust.
I cleaned the tables and planned some timber this week. I noticed that I didn't hear the buzzing sound that occurs ?when you stop the machine or switch between functions.
After running the planner for a couple of hours, I was clearing up the mess and cross cutting some really light kindling when I heard a sharp crack and that was the power gone.
Any ideas or help as to what to do next to trace the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Trevor Lusty
|
We moved home last September. My machine went into storage and the store got very damp over the winter. Enough to cover the tables with a light coating of red rust.
I cleaned the tables and planned some timber this week. I noticed that I didn't hear the buzzing sound that occurs ?when you stop the machine or switch between functions.
After running the planner for a couple of hours, I was clearing up the mess and cross cutting some really light kindling when I heard a sharp crack and that was the power gone.
Any ideas or help as to what to do next to trace the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Trevor Lusty
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@Bill James
I used the below drill jig to used end fasteners to hold it all together. Maybe anchor style is stronger. I am currently looking into this and May transition over to it ?
I bought all my material from tnutz. Significantly more cost effective than 8020.?
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
The bit in the link below is good
for a thickness of up to 13/16".
If you want a greater thickness
range get the larger bit.
?
--
Jerry P
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"You can observe a lot by watching."? Yogi Berra
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
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On Feb 28, 2021, at 09:31, Mark Foster <mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
Are you after a thumbnail or round profile?
Mark Foster
On Feb 28, 2021, at 05:00, Jeff Brand via <sixpak2@...> wrote:
?Thanks for the suggestions guys. For ? inch it looks like you would have to use a bit that is wider than the width of the plywood to get that profile, yes?
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Re: baltic birch edge profile
Are you after a thumbnail or round profile?
Mark Foster
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On Feb 28, 2021, at 05:00, Jeff Brand via groups.io <sixpak2@...> wrote:
?Thanks for the suggestions guys. For ? inch it looks like you would have to use a bit that is wider than the width of the plywood to get that profile, yes?
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Bill,
I had a similar experience. I wanted a MFT style table that was not a knock-down type. I had heard that one issue with MFT was that it was prone to get out of alignment due to its knock-down feature.
On the other hand, our industrial engineers made many things out of 80/20. I never really inquired as we did have skilled labor force including carpenters. Most that I recall were carts being used for a task, like a programming station or for placing the product while it was being tested. I know we had limited space in labs and in production so a possible reason could be the ability to make it exactly the size they wanted and as for why not have the carpenters build it. Well, their dept would have to pay for what the shop would charge and it is very possible that 80/20 was close and a lot less headache working with a union shop.
Imran
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On Feb 27, 2021, at 11:33 PM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote: ?Thanks Imran,
Looks like it is not like a lego and you have to order special machining for the connections. I downloaded a couple fo their example projects and $4,000 for a tool storage you can get for $800 at a big box store already assembled does not seem competitive at all. I might have missed something here.
For this workbench, I wonder whether building the base in 2x4 and plywood while heavier might not be simpler. I already build a wood cart like that and it is heavy but really sturdy.
Bill
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Chris, forgive a basic question, but why an articulated arm? Why not just fix the arm from the ceiling? I would not imagine that you move the K3.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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baltic birch edge profile
Thanks for the suggestions guys. For ? inch it looks like you would have to use a bit that is wider than the width of the plywood to get that profile, yes?
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Thanks Imran,
Looks like it is not like a lego and you have to order special machining for the connections. I downloaded a couple fo their example projects and $4,000 for a tool storage you can get for $800 at a big box store already assembled does not seem competitive at all. I might have missed something here.
For this workbench, I wonder whether building the base in 2x4 and plywood while heavier might not be simpler. I already build a wood cart like that and it is heavy but really sturdy.
Bill
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Jonathan Martens
Joe Jensen
imran
Mark Foster