Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest
#Bandsaw
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Wow TJ , super nice - this is totally what I need to be looking for On Oct 13, 2020, at 10:15 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
?My bandsaw refurbishing is underway. I finished installing a VFD in a slightly too-small enclosure and mounted the controls in a more ergonomical place. The big job was dealing with the worn bore on the bottom wheel - my dad is a machinist and he helped bore the wheel and make a sleeve for the motor shaft.
I have ordered a heavier spring from Iturra and a couple fences from Northfield - the conventional fence, and the resaw fence. I'm still fine tuning, but I think it's going to work out pretty well.? Thanks again for the help.
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Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest
#Bandsaw
Wow TJ , super nice - this is totally what I need to be looking for
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On Oct 13, 2020, at 10:15 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
?My bandsaw refurbishing is underway. I finished installing a VFD in a slightly too-small enclosure and mounted the controls in a more ergonomical place. The big job was dealing with the worn bore on the bottom wheel - my dad is a machinist and he helped bore the wheel and make a sleeve for the motor shaft. I have ordered a heavier spring from Iturra and a couple fences from Northfield - the conventional fence, and the resaw fence. I'm still fine tuning, but I think it's going to work out pretty well. ?Thanks again for the help.
  
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Re: General Woodworking Question
Morning Rob, I¡¯ve been a great advocate of multiple passes with both the router and spindle moulder for years, usually using different bits or blades! And or tilting the spindle! That¡¯s why I first bought the Felder, mine is fairly old now, a BF-631 circa 1996 but we¡¯ve grown together and I¡¯m very comfortable with it and wouldn¡¯t dream of a so called upgrade! I did dally once with the idea in the early 2000¡¯s but then read a lot people¡¯s reports about how good mine was as opposed to the new versions mainly that it was designed as one machine and not two bolted together! Thus stays accurate! I¡¯ve found that playing with the options of what a cutter or router bit (or section of) can give you can produce remarkable results! I¡¯m a renovator of listed property and years ago when having to replicate an existing moulding would order specially made cutters. That was fine until they started to cost the world now I can usually manage to replicate most profiles using what I have either in my tooling or with standard options! I start by visualising how they would have been made using old hand profile planes, what combination of these would have been used to achieve it and then I look for the parts of cutter that will give me that option. The spindle moulder is in fact far more versatile as you can turn blades upside down and reverse the direction of feed to access a completely different profile from the same set of cutters! Best of luck with the project Rob, if you¡¯re still stuck post me a profile with dimensions and I¡¯ll see if I can find a solution for you using standard euro cutters!
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On 14 Oct 2020, at 04:56, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Martin,
i am fascinated with the fact that this is possible with just a stopped cut on the shaper. to be sure we are speaking of the two beads/fillets that terminate in the V-shape - circled below. i assume the space between the beads is close to a round over.
i can see tilting the cutter to get the V but it would need to tilt parallel to the direction of feed, correct? i am only aware of spindles that tilt perpendicular to the feed direction.?
i am terrible in this kind of thinking but i like this detail and a challenge, so would love to learn if it is possible to do it on shaper.
round over bit was mentioned with raising the cutter, i assume to get the V detail. i am unable to visualize that.
the two beads appear to have a round top, if so that is sweet. a typical bullnose type bit will only do a fillet.
good stuff.
imran
On Oct 13, 2020, at 3:23 AM, Martin Guiver via groups.io <martin.guiver@...> wrote:
? Hi Rob, This moulding was produced on a spindle moulder with an appropriate cutter set and probably tilted as well! This enabled the shallow v grove to be cut and produce the corner bead. Executed as a stop cut you can see that the diameter of the profile of the cutter is far greater on the top side of the corner bead than on the v grove. To give you a clue the cutter profile will be of the architrave type! Hope that helps!
Regards Martin? On 13 Oct 2020, at 01:45, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Michael,
i assume robert is talking about the vertical routing detail that terminates in a V shape in top.
i would attempt to make the two fillets with round in between with a bullnose type bit in one pass.
round over bit would require two passes but complicating the stoping point as it would be beginning of one pass and end of the other.
i figures just use a chisel to make the V shape and then cleanup. not sure if there is enough material to use a hand router plane as it would be ideal.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 5:34 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
The ¡°v¡± or grove on the right? There¡¯s always the possibility for chisel clean up for square corners. Unless I¡¯m misunderstanding. I don¡¯t see the detail very clearly on my phone to analyze the nuance.
It¡¯s a three part cut from what I suggested. 1) round over full length. Then probably the same bit, but 2) raise it to get the step on a stopped cut. This is the front. 3) For the groove on the right side, it looks like a stopped
groove or v.
I cannot see a way to do it all at once if that is what you think I was suggesting.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
Michael,
if i understand what you are saying correctly, let¡¯s say the roundover bit is making the lower fillet and bottom half of round. how would you drop the workpiece while still traveling to get 1/2 of the V shape? seems like the travel to drop distance
ratio is close to 1:1.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
Looks like a stopped cut to me if I¡¯m looking at the right thing. I¡¯d probably recreate that with a round over then drop it to make a stepped round over in a stop cut setup. The groove or v would follow the same stopped cut plan.
Just some ideas
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ... worth a thousand words and its what I'd like to do but have
no idea how to achieve the look.? I've tried a few different methods on exiting the router but can't get this look.? Any ideas would be appreciated.?
<Round Over Edge Detail 1.jpg>
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Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest
#Bandsaw
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My bandsaw refurbishing is underway. I finished installing a VFD in a slightly too-small enclosure and mounted the controls in a more ergonomical place. The big job was dealing with the worn bore on the bottom wheel - my dad is a machinist and he helped
bore the wheel and make a sleeve for the motor shaft.
I have ordered a heavier spring from Iturra and a couple fences from Northfield - the conventional fence, and the resaw fence. I'm still fine tuning, but I think it's going to work out pretty well. ?Thanks again for the help.
|
Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest
#Bandsaw
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On Oct 13, 2020, at 7:15 PM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote: ?My bandsaw refurbishing is underway. I finished installing a VFD in a slightly too-small enclosure and mounted the controls in a more ergonomical place. The big job was dealing with the worn bore on the bottom wheel - my dad is a machinist and he helped bore the wheel and make a sleeve for the motor shaft. I have ordered a heavier spring from Iturra and a couple fences from Northfield - the conventional fence, and the resaw fence. I'm still fine tuning, but I think it's going to work out pretty well. ?Thanks again for the help.
<IMG_2731.jpg> <IMG_2736.jpg> <IMG_2737.jpg>
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Re: General Woodworking Question
Martin,
i am fascinated with the fact that this is possible with just a stopped cut on the shaper. to be sure we are speaking of the two beads/fillets that terminate in the V-shape - circled below. i assume the space between the beads is close to a round over.
i can see tilting the cutter to get the V but it would need to tilt parallel to the direction of feed, correct? i am only aware of spindles that tilt perpendicular to the feed direction.?
i am terrible in this kind of thinking but i like this detail and a challenge, so would love to learn if it is possible to do it on shaper.
round over bit was mentioned with raising the cutter, i assume to get the V detail. i am unable to visualize that.
the two beads appear to have a round top, if so that is sweet. a typical bullnose type bit will only do a fillet.
good stuff.
imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 13, 2020, at 3:23 AM, Martin Guiver via groups.io <martin.guiver@...> wrote: ? Hi Rob, This moulding was produced on a spindle moulder with an appropriate cutter set and probably tilted as well! This enabled the shallow v grove to be cut and produce the corner bead. Executed as a stop cut you can see that the diameter of the profile of the cutter is far greater on the top side of the corner bead than on the v grove. To give you a clue the cutter profile will be of the architrave type! Hope that helps!
Regards Martin? On 13 Oct 2020, at 01:45, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Michael,
i assume robert is talking about the vertical routing detail that terminates in a V shape in top.
i would attempt to make the two fillets with round in between with a bullnose type bit in one pass.
round over bit would require two passes but complicating the stoping point as it would be beginning of one pass and end of the other.
i figures just use a chisel to make the V shape and then cleanup. not sure if there is enough material to use a hand router plane as it would be ideal.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 5:34 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
The ¡°v¡± or grove on the right? There¡¯s always the possibility for chisel clean up for square corners. Unless I¡¯m misunderstanding. I don¡¯t see the detail very clearly on my phone to analyze the nuance.
It¡¯s a three part cut from what I suggested. 1) round over full length. Then probably the same bit, but 2) raise it to get the step on a stopped cut. This is the front. 3) For the groove on the right side, it looks like a stopped
groove or v.
I cannot see a way to do it all at once if that is what you think I was suggesting.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
Michael,
if i understand what you are saying correctly, let¡¯s say the roundover bit is making the lower fillet and bottom half of round. how would you drop the workpiece while still traveling to get 1/2 of the V shape? seems like the travel to drop distance
ratio is close to 1:1.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
Looks like a stopped cut to me if I¡¯m looking at the right thing. I¡¯d probably recreate that with a round over then drop it to make a stepped round over in a stop cut setup. The groove or v would follow the same stopped cut plan.
Just some ideas
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ... worth a thousand words and its what I'd like to do but have
no idea how to achieve the look.? I've tried a few different methods on exiting the router but can't get this look.? Any ideas would be appreciated.?
<Round Over Edge Detail 1.jpg>
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Castle working. ?Drilled a very nice hole in 1 1/8 thick hard maple in under 2 seconds. ?So far, so good. ?I will have more comments after I use it a bit. ?Yes, noisy. ?The enclosure has a lot of empty space within it, and I am thinking maybe I can figure a way to deaden the sound. ?Not a priority right now. ?
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Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest
#Bandsaw
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On Oct 13, 2020, at 7:15 PM, TJ Cornish < tj@...> wrote:
My bandsaw refurbishing is underway. I finished installing a VFD in a slightly too-small enclosure and mounted the controls in a more ergonomical place. The big job was dealing with the worn bore on the bottom wheel - my dad is a machinist and he helped bore the wheel and make a sleeve for the motor shaft.
I have ordered a heavier spring from Iturra and a couple fences from Northfield - the conventional fence, and the resaw fence. I'm still fine tuning, but I think it's going to work out pretty well. ?Thanks again for the help.
<IMG_2731.jpg><IMG_2736.jpg><IMG_2737.jpg>
|
Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest
#Bandsaw
My bandsaw refurbishing is underway. I finished installing a VFD in a slightly too-small enclosure and mounted the controls in a more ergonomical place. The big job was dealing with the worn bore on the bottom wheel - my dad is a machinist and he helped bore the wheel and make a sleeve for the motor shaft.
I have ordered a heavier spring from Iturra and a couple fences from Northfield - the conventional fence, and the resaw fence. I'm still fine tuning, but I think it's going to work out pretty well. ?Thanks again for the help.
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Re: Powermatic 141 bandsaw
Thanks Joe, guessing this one is mid 70¡¯s probably fair price assuming it¡¯s all in order
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On Oct 13, 2020, at 12:32 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?
PM 141s are great 14¡± saws.? I had one that was a 1990 gold era.? Sold for $650 during the 2008 recession and I thought that was a cheap price
?
?
Well here I go again, any opinions on this 141? I had planned on using my little inca 260 for small stuff which I have been until I discovered some issues with the lower wheel, it needs replaced and the cost is close to $300 - i am super
attached to that little saw but possibly not $300 dollars attached
Could possibly be a replacement but the price seems a little high, i would only really only use it with a 3/8¡± blade or under. I do have the laguna 14/12 which I planned on using for 3/8¡± and under once I bought
a larger saw for resawing but that larger saw is on hold for now, the laguna actually resaws pretty well at 8¡± and under and just so-so above that
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Re: Tannewitz Brake Questions
What ever is the simplistic and cheapest I would avoid using a brake Justin case of emergency. In larger machines bigger hp I would use disc brakes . My oliver has an over ride that cuts the motor if the blade brakes than using the manual rub brake. My best advise is don¡¯t stand to the right of the blade so your not buy when blade breaks. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Oct 12, 2020, at 11:26 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.? But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??
I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?
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Re: Powermatic 141 bandsaw
PM 141s are great 14¡± saws.? I had one that was a 1990 gold era.? Sold for $650 during the 2008 recession and I thought that was a cheap price
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Mark Kessler
Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2020 9:23 AM
To: Felder Owner Group < [email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] Powermatic 141 bandsaw
?
Well here I go again, any opinions on this 141? I had planned on using my little inca 260 for small stuff which I have been until I discovered some issues with the lower wheel, it needs replaced and the cost is close to $300 - i am super
attached to that little saw but possibly not $300 dollars attached
Could possibly be a replacement but the price seems a little high, i would only really only use it with a 3/8¡± blade or under. I do have the laguna 14/12 which I planned on using for 3/8¡± and under once I bought
a larger saw for resawing but that larger saw is on hold for now, the laguna actually resaws pretty well at 8¡± and under and just so-so above that
|
Well here I go again, any opinions on this 141? I had planned on using my little inca 260 for small stuff which I have been until I discovered some issues with the lower wheel, it needs replaced and the cost is close to $300 - i am super attached to that little saw but possibly not $300 dollars attached
This 141?
Could possibly be a replacement but the price seems a little high, i would only really only use it with a 3/8¡± blade or under. I do have the laguna 14/12 which I planned on using for 3/8¡± and under once I bought a larger saw for resawing but that larger saw is on hold for now, the laguna actually resaws pretty well at 8¡± and under and just so-so above that
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Re: General Woodworking Question
I'm so sorry about the quality of the picture.? It's actually a screen shot of a video showing the entire piece of furniture.? And then I've zoomed in probably 5X to show the edge detail.? ?I'm in the process of making a piece of furniture for our dining room that will serve as an insulated & conditioned (cooled) wine cabinet to store our red wines, (so 55 degrees).? Literature has been very scarce on how to do this so I've resorted to watching all the vendor product videos.? I came across this edge detail and liked the look and truthfully it stumped me from a woodworking standpoint.? I've tried a few things on the router table and now with your ideas on multiple passes will go back in the shop and play with this more because it will not beat me - even if I have to spend hours on the chisel.? It shows on the two top front corners of the 6'-6" tall cabinet, so this detail is right at eye level and has to be done right.? Martin I'm going to do more research on the architrave?type spindle cutter because if I can do this on the Felder shaper that will be soooo cool..? I may even reach out to some of the cutter manufacturer's for their ideas.? Thanks so much folks!
Rob
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Re: General Woodworking Question
Hi Rob, This moulding was produced on a spindle moulder with an appropriate cutter set and probably tilted as well! This enabled the shallow v grove to be cut and produce the corner bead. Executed as a stop cut you can see that the diameter of the profile of the cutter is far greater on the top side of the corner bead than on the v grove. To give you a clue the cutter profile will be of the architrave type! Hope that helps!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 13 Oct 2020, at 01:45, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Michael,
i assume robert is talking about the vertical routing detail that terminates in a V shape in top.
i would attempt to make the two fillets with round in between with a bullnose type bit in one pass.
round over bit would require two passes but complicating the stoping point as it would be beginning of one pass and end of the other.
i figures just use a chisel to make the V shape and then cleanup. not sure if there is enough material to use a hand router plane as it would be ideal.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 5:34 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
The ¡°v¡± or grove on the right? There¡¯s always the possibility for chisel clean up for square corners. Unless I¡¯m misunderstanding. I don¡¯t see the detail very clearly on my phone to analyze the nuance.
It¡¯s a three part cut from what I suggested. 1) round over full length. Then probably the same bit, but 2) raise it to get the step on a stopped cut. This is the front. 3) For the groove on the right side, it looks like a stopped
groove or v.
I cannot see a way to do it all at once if that is what you think I was suggesting.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
Michael,
if i understand what you are saying correctly, let¡¯s say the roundover bit is making the lower fillet and bottom half of round. how would you drop the workpiece while still traveling to get 1/2 of the V shape? seems like the travel to drop distance
ratio is close to 1:1.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
Looks like a stopped cut to me if I¡¯m looking at the right thing. I¡¯d probably recreate that with a round over then drop it to make a stepped round over in a stop cut setup. The groove or v would follow the same stopped cut plan.
Just some ideas
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ... worth a thousand words and its what I'd like to do but have
no idea how to achieve the look.? I've tried a few different methods on exiting the router but can't get this look.? Any ideas would be appreciated.?
<Round Over Edge Detail 1.jpg>
|
Re: General Woodworking Question
I think we¡¯re all struggling with the picture quality, but Michael I wonder whether your idea of raising the bit will not only create the stopped shoulder Rob wants, but it will also re-profile the round-over so it is deeper and not in the same plane? That may be the objective. I don¡¯t know. I¡¯m thinking it might be better to round-over the whole edge, and then use a totally different bit, like a rebate bit or even a large diameter end-mill style bit, for the stopped pass. This would create a bit of an arris on the ¡°rounded¡± part. I can¡¯t tell from the picture if that is what¡¯s required.
Like Michael, just some ideas.
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Looks like a stopped cut to me if I¡¯m looking at the right thing. I¡¯d probably recreate that with a round over then drop it to make a stepped round over in a stop cut setup. The groove or v would follow the same stopped cut plan.
Just some ideas
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ... worth a thousand words and its what I'd like to do but have
no idea how to achieve the look.? I've tried a few different methods on exiting the router but can't get this look.? Any ideas would be appreciated.?
<Round Over Edge Detail 1.jpg>
|
Tannewitz Brake Questions
My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.? But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??
I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience?
|
I had the Ritter for a minute. Boat anchor, and a good one at that as it's a huge heavy cabinet that's almost completely empty. It vibrated horribly, made sloppy holes. I can't think of a good Ritter experience besides their line boring machine. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Brett,
did you attach the shim blocks to clamp foot somehow or just manually place it between foot and material?
imran
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On Oct 12, 2020, at 1:10 PM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Kreg Foreman improvement idea - I dealt with the clamp/walking issue by adding a piece of adhesive backed sandpaper?to the cup/foot for more traction under pressure. Then I got tired of the clamp not having enough?clearance moving pieces?in/out and started wrapping shim blocks with sandpaper instead and adjust the clamp 1/4" oversize for the material,?which is take?up by the shim board(s). The shim boards may or may not be paint stirring sticks wrapped in 120-grit.? Works a charm.
Imran-
On mine, it¡¯s the same way. There is supposed to be a hose that goes from where the drill bit is to the rear hole. <Image.jpeg> <Image.jpeg>
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
michael,
i bought foreman used. it is metal base one. it has open bottom and a round hole in rear wall that might be intended for dust collection. if your DC port is similar, would love insight into how to connect DC to this unit. the rear wall port seems
not to point towards the dust source.
imran
?
I¡¯ve got the Kreg foreman. I use it a lot and it works pretty well. It was one of those tools I thought was nice to have but now it is essential to me.
It can be improved in several ways aside from the drilling angle previously discussed. I¡¯ve addressed this issue in my design and workflow with reveals etc that minimize that impact. Great for face frame cabinets, not so great for
fine furniture and flush requirements. If that¡¯s the case, I¡¯ll flush rout to fix that but it¡¯s rare that I need to.
It operates on a system of depth setting and clamping via two knobs with a retaining nut. One is depth of drill and the other is the clamp. I find that those are not great at holding over time and have the tendency to work themselves
out of their locked positions. The clamp also is finicky and gets in its own way and doesn¡¯t have great holding power. The bit can make the wood walk a little to the right. Hasn¡¯t actually been too much of an issue practically, just requires a bit more knowledge
or experience to know if a hole is over or under drilled or work into your process checking it prior to use. It usually holds well enough for a kitchen or large built in size in continuous use without coming too far out of alignment for any appreciable issues.
It can also do a wide range of sizes of stock and screws.
It uses a drill type motor to power the drill bit. I think that motor is a bit underpowered for hardwood and tends to bog down. It is probably as fast as the castle from video I saw of the tsm -12 but uses a single action lever. Dust
collection runs off the Bosch tool actuated vac vs central dust collection because of the really small 1-1/2¡± dc port.
Definitely transportable which I love.
When it dies I will probably upgrade to tsm-12. But not before. Also it is about 450, so a lot lower cost entry point. I would rate it at a semi pro grade tool and it seems out of place compared to the rather industrial grade everything
else is in the shop, aside from my makita miter saw.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
I have several Kreg jigs as well as the Castle TSM-12??,
my preference is to use the Castle as much as possible. The lower angle of the entry is very nice, and I appreciate having the pilot holes drilled all the way through (my Kreg jigs never seem to drill the pilot all the way).?
My machine utilizes the pair of Bosch routers, and while it is loud, it's no louder than a JDS Multirouter or any other router-based machine in my shop.?
The TSM-12 is portable. I've only taken it on-site with me a handful of times, but it was handy to have in those situations. MUCH faster than a Kreg machine.?
The only real downside to the Castle machine is that it's really dialed-in for 3/4"/19mm stock. To work with thinner stock you need to put shims between the stock and the table, and I think maximum thickness is ~1.5" / 41mm.?
So, for my work flow I typically use my Mafell DD-40P and Festool Domino XL for alignment and so on, the Castle gets used for 3/4" stock, with the Kreg jigs in reserve for oddball parts and pieces that don't work with the Castle.....
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Michael,
thanks for the pics. long time ago i saw a video that talked about the new kreg foreman as an exception where price was reduced and featured improved. it mentioned clamp adjustment, bit replacement and fence positioning (for diff thickness of material) much easier on new model. DC probably is a part as well. i won¡¯t be home for few days, but i have a feeling that the DC collection point cover (you show) may be specific to your model. i am hoping i am wrong. my model # is DB110.
imran?
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On Oct 12, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote: ?
Imran-
On mine, it¡¯s the same way. There is supposed to be a hose that goes from where the drill bit is to the rear hole. <Image.jpeg> <Image.jpeg>
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
michael,
i bought foreman used. it is metal base one. it has open bottom and a round hole in rear wall that might be intended for dust collection. if your DC port is similar, would love insight into how to connect DC to this unit. the rear wall port seems
not to point towards the dust source.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 10:42 AM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
I¡¯ve got the Kreg foreman. I use it a lot and it works pretty well. It was one of those tools I thought was nice to have but now it is essential to me.
It can be improved in several ways aside from the drilling angle previously discussed. I¡¯ve addressed this issue in my design and workflow with reveals etc that minimize that impact. Great for face frame cabinets, not so great for
fine furniture and flush requirements. If that¡¯s the case, I¡¯ll flush rout to fix that but it¡¯s rare that I need to.
It operates on a system of depth setting and clamping via two knobs with a retaining nut. One is depth of drill and the other is the clamp. I find that those are not great at holding over time and have the tendency to work themselves
out of their locked positions. The clamp also is finicky and gets in its own way and doesn¡¯t have great holding power. The bit can make the wood walk a little to the right. Hasn¡¯t actually been too much of an issue practically, just requires a bit more knowledge
or experience to know if a hole is over or under drilled or work into your process checking it prior to use. It usually holds well enough for a kitchen or large built in size in continuous use without coming too far out of alignment for any appreciable issues.
It can also do a wide range of sizes of stock and screws.
It uses a drill type motor to power the drill bit. I think that motor is a bit underpowered for hardwood and tends to bog down. It is probably as fast as the castle from video I saw of the tsm -12 but uses a single action lever. Dust
collection runs off the Bosch tool actuated vac vs central dust collection because of the really small 1-1/2¡± dc port.
Definitely transportable which I love.
When it dies I will probably upgrade to tsm-12. But not before. Also it is about 450, so a lot lower cost entry point. I would rate it at a semi pro grade tool and it seems out of place compared to the rather industrial grade everything
else is in the shop, aside from my makita miter saw.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
I have several Kreg jigs as well as the Castle TSM-12??,
my preference is to use the Castle as much as possible. The lower angle of the entry is very nice, and I appreciate having the pilot holes drilled all the way through (my Kreg jigs never seem to drill the pilot all the way).?
My machine utilizes the pair of Bosch routers, and while it is loud, it's no louder than a JDS Multirouter or any other router-based machine in my shop.?
The TSM-12 is portable. I've only taken it on-site with me a handful of times, but it was handy to have in those situations. MUCH faster than a Kreg machine.?
The only real downside to the Castle machine is that it's really dialed-in for 3/4"/19mm stock. To work with thinner stock you need to put shims between the stock and the table, and I think maximum thickness is ~1.5" / 41mm.?
So, for my work flow I typically use my Mafell DD-40P and Festool Domino XL for alignment and so on, the Castle gets used for 3/4" stock, with the Kreg jigs in reserve for oddball parts and pieces that don't work with the Castle.....
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Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Joe Jensen
David Luckensmeyer
Jason Holtz