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Tilting shaper ideas
Geoff Shepherd
Hi Group... here's an idea I wanted to try on the tilting shaper using the
high-speed spindle - sliding dovetails. Usually a sliding dovetail is done in two steps, one to mill the dovetail groove, and a second to mill the dovetail "tongue", say in the end of a shelf or partition of a box or cabinet. When milling the dovetail tongue, the procedure I've alway seen is to stand the piece up on end and guide it against the router table fence with the dovetail bit partially exposed. Flip the piece over and repeat to create the full tail. I found an alternative to standing the work up on end is the following: tilt the router spindle to the exact angle of the dovetail bit, then you can guide the work flat on the table, even using the sliding table if you prefer. The catch is that the dovetail depth is limited to the maximum width of the dovetail bit, but this may be acceptable for many situations. As before, you still have to make two passes to mill the tongues. Tilting the bit precisely is really easy to do just by counting the crank revolutions. For my 14-degree bit, it's seven crank revs. In my practice setup, I milled the slot first, then measured the depth and narrow width using a digital sliding calipers. This provided measurements for setting the bit height and exposure. Exposure is the same as the slot depth. Height is: (stock thickness - narrow width) / 2 ... this gives a good starting point from which to fine-tune the adjustments, but given either plain luck or the accuracy of the Felder system, my first try was exactly on (working in metric made this whole test even easier). I also played around with the tilting shaper and my existing router bit collection. I found a very nice profile suitable for small picture frames can be produced with my Porter-Cable "Traditional" profile bit tilted back to 30-degrees, followed by a little clean-up with a 1/8" round-over at 0-degrees. Since the fancy bit I used creates a more-or-less 45-degree profile on an edge, tilting to 30-degrees changes this to essentially a 15-degree profile. Comparing side-by-side it is hard to believe the same bit made the new profile. ..Geoff |
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Re: DUST COLLECTOR
Geoff Shepherd
Scott,
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I assume you mean the AF-22... mine is mounted on the mobile stand, but John Renzetti has his bolted to the wall. The height from the bottom of the collector housing (where the bags attach) to the floor of the rolling base is 93cm (~36 1/2") - this is just right so the bottom of the bags have something to rest on for support. I was just discussing with John Renzetti that bolting the AF-22 to a hollow wall may amplify vibrations if the wall acts as a sounding board. ...Geoff ----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Slater <scott@...> To: <geoff@...> Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 1:16 AM Subject: DUST COLLECTOR Hi,of the collector. thanks |
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Re: dust collector height
Scott Slater
Geoff,
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Before getting your message, I spoke to Pete at Felder, he said that the measurement was 33 1/2 inches - but this was the smaller unit, he said that the bags are the same size. I mounted it at 34 inches - I think that it is too low - I may try to remount it higher, it should only take a little bit of time. I have a piece of 3/4 inch plywood on the wall, and the dc mounted to that. I got the phase converter hooked up, and 3 phase power to 2 places in the shop. Now I just have to wait for the machine to come in (end of April). I cannot believe the suction on the AF22, you were right in an earlier email about the cat getting sucked in. It still seems quite loud, I have the LN version, so I wonder how loud the non LN version is. I do not hear the vibration, except when the machine is slowing down after power off, my walls are hollow with drywall. Scott -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Shepherd [mailto:geoff@...] Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 12:13 PM To: Scott Slater; felder-woodworking@... Subject: Re: DUST COLLECTOR Scott, I assume you mean the AF-22... mine is mounted on the mobile stand, but John Renzetti has his bolted to the wall. The height from the bottom of the collector housing (where the bags attach) to the floor of the rolling base is 93cm (~36 1/2") - this is just right so the bottom of the bags have something to rest on for support. I was just discussing with John Renzetti that bolting the AF-22 to a hollow wall may amplify vibrations if the wall acts as a sounding board. ...Geoff ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Slater <scott@...> To: <geoff@...> Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 1:16 AM Subject: DUST COLLECTOR Hi,height it should be from the ground - I have the unit that attaches to thewall, if you have the same one, could you let me know how high it is to thebottom of the collector. thanks |
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Ht of bags off the floor
John Renzetti
I've got the top of the AF22 frame 42.5" off the floor. This has
allowed enough room so the bags can have some support as they fill. The regular Felder bags that came with this machine were pretty large, I thought any lower would have constricted the bags. I'm plannning on adding some front leg supports made out of tube steel. It's always seemed like a lot of weight just bolted to the wall. There was a post over on Badger Pond about pleated dust filters from the Farr Co of Little Rock AR. They make various sized filters that could serve as a substitute or an addition to the regular drum filter. They have one that is about 36" high that sells for $65. With more cu ft of fabric available for filtering you wouldn't have to clean the filter as often especially when cutting sheet goods like mdf. Take care, John Renzetti |
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Sliding table - Any lubrication?
Jim Voos
My sliding table seems to have a little more friction than before. I found
some oxidation on the rails and cleaned that off, and would like to protect it. I had heard that you are not to put any protectant, lubrication on the sliding rails. Is this what you have all heard? Any thoughts? jim |
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Re: Sliding table - Any lubrication?
Wolfgang Geiger
Dear Jim,
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You should put any lubricant that contains oil, silicon or similar substances on the rails. These substances attract dust and will create residue on the rails. We recommend any lubricants that do not attract dust or wood chips (e.g FELDER Spindle Fluid, see March Special). Wolfgang ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Voos <jvoos@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 1:32 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Sliding table - Any lubrication? My sliding table seems to have a little more friction than before. Ifound some oxidation on the rails and cleaned that off, and would like toprotect it. I had heard that you are not to put any protectant, lubrication onthe sliding rails. Is this what you have all heard?felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
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Re: Sliding table - Any lubrication?
John Renzetti
Jim, I've always used the Fluidum, which came in the little care kit with
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the KF7F. I don't know what's in it, but it works great. One product to stay away from is some stuff called slip-it. Another guy I know (name shall remain anonymous used it on the sliders rails with sub-optimal results) It can really clog up the works if not carefully applied. I tried some on the tables and didn't like it at all. Went back to the Bostck top coat and the metal glanz and Gleit from the care kit. ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Voos <jvoos@...> To: <felder-woodworking@...> Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 4:32 PM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Sliding table - Any lubrication? My sliding table seems to have a little more friction than before. Ifound some oxidation on the rails and cleaned that off, and would like toprotect it. I had heard that you are not to put any protectant, lubrication onthe sliding rails. Is this what you have all heard?felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...
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UK prices for Felder BF6-31 and Robland X31
Group - I thought this might be of interest to
some of you. If not, just hit delete. This is the beginning of a conversation thread over on the rec.woodworking newsgroup via Deja.com. You can read the responses by using the link near the bottom of this e-mail. Some of the responses are quite interesting. I'm going to send out invitations from our group to some of the participants of this thread on the other forum. More Felder owners... ..Geoff ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ This message was forwarded to you from Deja.com by Geoff@.... Deja.com offers free consumer information, including ratings and reviews on thousands of products and services. Before you buy, visit ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ (beginning of original message) Subject: UK prices for Felder BF6-31 and Robland X31 From: Neil Viljoen <nielv@...> Date: 2000/03/04 Newsgroups: rec.woodworking --------------BC75CB71F33BC53379E22E7F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit (Please remove xxx from return mail before replying) I am possibly moving to the UK in July and have the difficult decision whether to buy a combination machine in the UK or here in the US. If I buy it here I will save the 17.5% VAT which makes it seem attractive. The transport will be with my move so the cost differential should not be significant. Can anybody tell me what these machines go for in the UK (new)? Regards Niel Viljoen --------------BC75CB71F33BC53379E22E7F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit <!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"> <html> (Please remove xxx from return mail before replying) <p>I am possibly moving to the UK in July and have the difficult decision whether to buy a combination machine in the UK or here in the US. If I buy it here I will save the 17.5% VAT which makes it seem attractive. The transport will be with my move so the cost differential should not be significant. <p>Can anybody tell me what these machines go for in the UK (new)? <br> <h4> Regards Niel Viljoen</h4> </html> --------------BC75CB71F33BC53379E22E7F-- (end of original message) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ You can view this message and the related discussion by following this link: We hope to see you soon at Deja.com. Before you buy. |
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Thanks I have joined
Niel Viljoen
Thanks to the invitations of Geoff Shepherd and John Renzetti I have
signed-up although I have not yet bought my Felder, hence my question in rec.woodworking. What intrigued me was the mention the BF6-31 is to be replaced by a 700 series machine. Does anybody have anymore information? I have definitely decided to buy a Felder, the key question where and what! Regards Niel Viljoen |
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Re: Thanks I have joined
Mark Rupersburg
Niel;
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Good question. I'd like to hear more about this. Perhaps Renzetti at Felder East can fill us in. Regards, Mark Rupersburgj Niel Viljoen wrote: Thanks to the invitations of Geoff Shepherd and John Renzetti I have |
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BF6-31 replacement
John Renzetti
From what I hear and also from a picture of one in the Christmas
catalog, the BF6-31 will be replaced some time this year with the CF700 series machine. It's supposed to be pretty much like a "7" series but will come with the 12" 310mm jointer/planer. Also thanks to one of our agents in the field I was able to obtain some secret photographs of these machines when they were shown at a European show. :) Not sure when the US introduction will be, but I know that one of our new members is going to order/has ordered the KF700F. (Nothing like a little foreign intrigue to liven the forum up;not as exciting as when I worked in Africa, but it's something. :) ) Take care, John Renzetti Chadds Ford, PA KF7-F, AD7-41, AF22(the very loud version) |
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Re: Thanks I have joined
Joe Dusel
Hi Neil,
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I just place my order last week for a K700S Professional Sliding Table Saw. Here is some info from Peter Rodgers some of which is probably relevant to the new series. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Here are some details about the new K700S Professional Sliding Table Saw General: square coupling system for table extensions (f-coupling) formed chassis Euro overhead sawguard new tilt ratio, one revolution equals 1 degree round steel bar guiding of rip fence new rip fence design 8' sliding table with options of 9' and 10' The overhead saw guard on the machine features a wide extraction hood, dust extraction outlet of 80mm and a very large arm to ensure enough stability. The extraction hood can be moved diagonally up and down and will readjust to the individual workpiece height through its own weight. The rip table will be sheet metal instead of cast pieces bolted together. The main table with still be machined cast iron with 17"x39" dimensions. The rip fence is now traveling on a round steel bar (approx 2"dia.) and has a shorter profile. The shorter plate has improved stability. Digital readout is also an option. _______________________________________________________________________________ Hope this helps. Joe Niel Viljoen wrote:
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POLL: Metric or imperial (English) measurements?
This weeks poll is whether you are using Metric or Imperial measurements. I have heard that it is good to use Metric for the shaper, but what about the rest of the machine?
---- Please select one of the following: o Fully metric o Metric on shaper, imperial for everything else o Mixture of both o Fully imperial o Transitioning to metric by going to the following Web form: Thank you! |
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Re: Kay Phasemaster Question
John Hartshorne
Geoff,
It is possible that a small amount of moisture entered the bearings. The bearing are sealed on one side only, the side facing the end bells of the converter is open and the grease is located there. It is not hard to remove the end bells and repack the bearings. However, don't over grease them. Many people think that if a little grease is good, then more is better. Not true don't do it. Just remove the end bells unbolt and knock loose with a dead-blow hammer. Carefully remove the rotor making sure that no damage occures to the windings. The bearings will remain located on the rotor. Rince them clean with WD-40 and dry with compressed air. Then repac the bearings with a good quality general purpose grease. Remember there is very little load applied to this motor and it seldom gets to hot, so a light viscosity grease will flow better at low temps. Place about two tablespoons of grease in the end bell cavities. Reassemble and retighten the end bell bolts. Try it again it should sound better. Let me know how it goes. John "geoff shepherd" <geof-@...> wrote: original article: =111 Hi all,bearings (whining) until it warms up a bit. This unit was never used, but satfor two years on its pallet before I purchased it with the BF6-31 and AF-22from Mike Simpson in Oregon.and the recommended lubricant (Chevron SRI) and try lubing up the bearings?Or do they all do this?option for our group... the advertising at the bottom of our messages and thebanner ads on our group site have been eliminated. |
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BF6-31 available/personal websites
John Renzetti
One of our members, Jan Jensen a cabinetmaker from CO, has an almost
new BF6-31 for sale. Jan is getting all new seperate Felders. If any of you know of anyone who may be interested just contact Jan directly. Also if anyone has a personal website feel free to post a direct link to it. Also if you have project or shop pictures don't forget to upload those also. Take care, John Renzetti |
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Re: Kay Phasemaster Question
Geoff Shepherd
Thanks for your response, John. I'll take a look at converter ASAP. Not sure
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where to purchase the right grease - the manual calls for Chevron SRI. I'll try the local industrial suppliers. This converter generates enough heat to supplement my portable electric space heater, but it's about what I would expect for a device consuming 4.6A @ 245V (about 1100 watts) while idle - the energy has to go somewhere. Given our relatively cheap electricity in the Northwest, that costs me about 6-cents or so per hour to run. ..Geoff ----- Original Message -----
From: John Hartshorne <john@...> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 11:16 AM Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Kay Phasemaster Question Geoff,(snip) |
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Introduction/What's Cooking
Geoff Shepherd
We're up to fifty members today. I guess now is as good of a time as any to
"go around the room" and introduce ourselves. No pressure, though... this is just an idea. I recenly purchased a barely used '97 BF6-31, AF-22, and Kay MA-1 rotary converter... it is a long story (like nine months), but I'm extremely happy to finally have a Felder in my shop. My previous machine was a Shopsmith Mk. V 510 (actually it is still hanging around for other uses), so this is quite a step up. Woodworking is one of two or three serious hobbies - one other being renovating my ca. 1915 Craftsman-style Bungalow. My shop is in what at one time was a separate alley-access Model T garage with an attached wood shed. The previous owners had updated this into a short 2.5 car garage (17'x26'), which before the Felder arrived actually garaged a small car now and then in addition to my woodshop. My day job is designing software for PalmOS-based (remember the Palm Pilot?) industrial bar code scanners. Actually, that's just what's current. I've been programming computers for almost twenty years now - first as a hobby, then professionally for the last six years or so. I also play the piano, but only for my own enjoyment. Some time in late 1996 is when I sparked an interest in woodworking, partly out of necessity for restoring some of the built-in architectural details in the house and also out of a desire for building period furniture with lusterous fine finishes you just want to touch. Being a perfectionistic technologly/gadget freak, well, the Felder was a natural. My current projects involve working on the "systems" of the house... I just finished replumbing (installing new bathroom fixtures tonight), and for quite some time I've been retrofitting radiant hydronic floor heat which will also be extended out to the shop. Presently my shop is in a pretty sorry state of afairs, which is only magnified by the sparkling new machine! I plan to spend a good deal of time building shop cabinets, finishing my workbench, and finishing the shop itself. After the workbench, my next furniture project will be a bed so I can get some sleep. OK, next! -- Geoff Shepherd Everett, WA |
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Re: Uploads, etc...
Geoff Shepherd
Just a reminder for those new to the group:
If you are getting overwhelmed with the number of messages from this e-mail list, most e-mail programs let you sort incoming mail into separate folders based on the subject. In our case, you would set up a filter that looks for "[felder-woodworking]" in the subject line. If you need help setting up an e-mail filter, check the built-in help.. and if that doesn't do much for you, send me a private e-mail (geoff@...) and I'll try to lend a hand. There is a shared web site we can upload pictures and articles to: If you don't have an eGroups password, you'll be prompted to create one. It's easy, fast, and free - just follow the instructions presented. Once you're set up there, you can access our web site features such as the document vault, poll, shared calendar, message archive, your subscription settings, etc. It's also surprisingly easy to upload your pictures/etc to the document vault - there is an upload button that will bring up a "Browse for File" window on your computer. Just make sure to let the group know you've uploaded something so we can go have a look. -- Geoff Shepherd |
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Photographs
开云体育John R,
You wrote: Also thanks to one of our
agents in the field I was able to obtain some secret photographs of these machines when they were shown at a European show. ?
Where are the pictures? I thought you might have put them in
the vault for the rest of us to drool over. Could you?
Thanks, Paul |
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Thanks John
Rick Strom
Thanks for the invitation to join this site, and possibly the users
group. As I review the emails that have been sent, it looks as though this is going to be very informative, and fun. I have one of my engineers researching the Kay Phasemaster. We sell several phase converters, but not the Kay line. How old is the unit? If it came with the machine, I am surprised the bearings are giving you any problem. If this was purchased after the machine, and not a matched system, you could possibly have a converter that has an ODP motor, (open drip proof), and not a TEFC, (totally enclosed fan cooled). The difference is obvious, dust can get into the windings, bearings, etc. in the ODP, and they have dried out. Also, as you look at the end-bell, on some motors you will see a small "tapped" hole. Most will have a simple plug in it, this can be taken out and a "zirk" grease fitting can be installed. Thus eliminating the need to disassemble the motor to grease the bearings. If you would like to send the manufacturer name and frame size of the motor, I would be happy to see if I can help further. I might even have one of those fittings. (In addition to selling electrical equipment, we have 7 motor repair shops on the east coast.) Once again, thanks John for the invitation. Rick Strom |
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