Re: Wide belt grit selection
Hey Jason Ha,? yes you're probably getting better resaw results.? I rarely do it- most of my resawing is really ripping edging on the table saw,? and then? widebelt with 80 at a fast feed rate. It's all about pounding out a ton of defect-free edgebanding quickly.
Post edgebanding I hit the edges on the edge sander.?
The sine wave seam on an angle plus soft platen does make a difference. It's just not a priority for me cause I'm going to belt sand anyway. I'm about to transition to a stroke sander for that.?
The coat of the deluxe grits (zirconia) never seemed worth it.?
You know how it is- I figure out what works and then don't really spend much energy engaging in speculative optimizing.?
Regards Lloyd?
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On 2/16/22 11:37 PM, imranindiana wrote: came out of few boards but only at the beginning of the cut. If it isn't smoke and it isn't steam ( neither of which am I proposing), it could be dust, or it could also be spores from small fungi.? It's the part about? happening at the beginning of the cut that causes me to drift in that direction. The end grain can harbor both.
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
Hi Mark I haven't found many options for the belt material when buying wide belts- usually 180 is paper and the coarser ones fabric.? Once you handle and use them, this division will make sense.? No need to pay extra to get atypical belt configurations- go with the default.? That article confirms my suspicion that the felt platen does reduce chatter but it's never been a priority for me because I almost always flood the pieces with dark dye and belt sand- this is the best way to catch all the surface defects and monitor sanding progress.This wouldn't work if you weren't going to add any color.? The article suggests that large shops do a lot of belt washing- maybe they're doing a lot of resinous material. For most of my work,? the belts wear down before clogging. You can feel the tooth wearing down.?
I apply most of my own veneers and won't run veneered panels thru the thickness sander unless I'm using thick veneers (>1/24"). The cores are almost always edgebanded and thickness sanded before veneering but variations in glue thickness creates high potential for sand thru if the veneers are thinner. I think there are specialty thickness sanders for standard thickness veneer (segmented or pneumatic platens?)
There is a high risk of sand thru with standard cabinet grade plywood. Anything with a thicker face ply like multi-ply (Baltic birch) or construction grade ply can work but you have to be careful.?
I've sanded nonferrous metals (removing only a couple thousands of an inch at a time), plastics, epoxy and stripped finishes but these materials will wear out and clog the belts quickly.? My attitude is that sandpaper is meant to be consumed.
I've also grained stainless but that shouldn't be done because of the risk of sparks/ fire.?
The machine is also great for dimensioning floating tenon or spline material.? It is easy the creep up on a precise thickness in a controlled manner.? ?Running the material a 2nd or 3rd time thru the machine without changing the thickness setting removes small amounts. Rotate the material so that unequal belt wear gets canceled out.
You can jump a grit size up to 120. But don't skip 120 on your way to 150 or 150 on your way to 180. Those finer belts wear out very quickly.?
Regards Lloyd
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
Jason what brand? I am looking at VSM cloth right now because I can buy a min of 2 Butt it¡¯s a butt joint (pun intended)?
The zirc is only $5 more per belt
But here is the other thing these particular ones are not anti-static, VSM guy said won¡¯t really be an issue for me as a light user and only doing hardwood?
-is non anti static ok? Anyone??
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 10:31 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? Mark,? For your volume of use in a one man shop, I don't think that would pay off. We are using Aluminum Oxide, with 5 people in the shop and belts last months. Here's a photo of the diagonal wiggly seam. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
Mark,? For your volume of use in a one man shop, I don't think that would pay off. We are using Aluminum Oxide, with 5 people in the shop and belts last months. Here's a photo of the diagonal wiggly seam. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
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Thank You James,
Just curious, do you happen to know what the thread size Kreg uses on that underside clamp screw they provide?
Wade ? typo, 1/4" - 20 thread.
James Wade,
Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread.?
No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop.
James Hey James,
Thank you for sending this.? So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6¡± version clamp without having to modify it?? What thread sizes did you use?? Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I¡¯m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I¡¯m making money to save for Mac¡¯s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don¡¯t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don¡¯t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you¡¯re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you¡¯re considering a short crosscut fence and it¡¯s locked-down T-nut.
I¡¯ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can¡¯t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I¡¯ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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Re: Sliding Table Installation
These pictures are spot on that L bracket and holes for the overarm do not line up at all at least in this picture the holes are partially visible. I am a good 3/8" off I'd say, not a big deal just didn't realize what transpired during service to get it to fit versus what I did which was leveling the table first. I question how important the bracket is too might be better just leave it disconnected.
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
Mark,
? I was initially encouraged to use strictly paper backed belts by my Uneeda distributor. In the 7 years since acquiring (Safety Speed 4375), Here's what's evolved:
Resawn surfaces aside, I am typically using a spiral planer for s4s prep, then to the wide belt 180 grit with platen, as I only need to remove .010 - .015" . One pass per face ~ .007 per pass, landing within a few thou of target thickness. This includes assembled FF's and doors. While I own many grits, 180 is almost all that's loaded on the machine, and the platen is used 100% of the time. Zero chatter. Slight hula-pattern from belt oscillation, but a quick (1ips) once-over with 180 on a 6" Metabo R/O = ready for a swirl-free staining, as that's typically what the job calls for.?
?
Rare occasions, I lift the platen (3/8 felt with fabric backed graphite overly) and let the drum do the heavy digging if stripping finish / veneers off using 80-100 grit. As soon as I hit 150+, platen is engaged.?
Cloth vs paper backed: imperceptible difference in real-world performance = I don't worry about it any more.?
I've recently read about an SCM user who feels he gets too much of the sanding tracks when platen is engaged for finish sanding in the 220 range, so he never uses the platen. Very strange to me, as the drum alone typically produces chatter lines in my experience.
?
= Your experience will evolve to harmonize with the behavior of your machine. Start with a decent selection of reputable brand (3m, Ekamant/Uneeda, or Hermes) in the 80-220 range.?
test with / without platen. Steel drum and raw steel platen? Raises an eyebrow, as I have no experience with either.? I'd be wondering if , on a used machine, that the graphite material and felt may have deteriorated, been disposed of, and use of platen completely abandoned. (?) Only other reason would be heavy stock removal on material with irregular density, like a knotty pine, where a soft platen may result in less than a perfectly flat surface. I just feel, for users like us (NOT a high-production commercial enterprise), a properly maintained and utilized platen is a must.
Again, YMMV.
Jeff
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
Seams on mine are on a diagonal but sine wave sounds fancy. I assume they included the principal frequency and all of it¡¯s harmonics in the seam design so it must be harmonically balanced; clever ?
Imran?
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 10:10 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Jason, so what brand are you using, I thought you mentioned it but can¡¯t find it.? When you said straight seam, you mean a butt joint? VSM just told me that was the way to go On Feb 17, 2022, at 9:36 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? Lloyd, My resaw setup must be better than yours as 120 is takes out saw marks in a pass or two??We can even glue directly off the bandsaw.
I was having bad chatter marks off the sander for a while, it was the belts. Don't use the 3M 340D belts. They are inexpensive and last a while, but they have a straight seam. You want all your belts to have that sine wave zig zag type seam as it greatly improves the finish quality. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Wide belt grit selection
Jason, so what brand are you using, I thought you mentioned it but can¡¯t find it.? When you said straight seam, you mean a butt joint? VSM just told me that was the way to go
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 9:36 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? Lloyd, My resaw setup must be better than yours as 120 is takes out saw marks in a pass or two??We can even glue directly off the bandsaw.
I was having bad chatter marks off the sander for a while, it was the belts. Don't use the 3M 340D belts. They are inexpensive and last a while, but they have a straight seam. You want all your belts to have that sine wave zig zag type seam as it greatly improves the finish quality. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
??? I will also agree about the problem with the Kreg automaxx clamp.? I have found if you hold on firmly to whatever it is you're clamping as you activate the clamp, you can over power the lateral pull of the clamp. You will notice that the gray plastic clamping shoe will slip slightly where it slides onto the steel clamping foot each time you use the clamp. After a while you will have to push the plastic clamping shoe back into place. I'm pretty happy with the Kreg clamp overall. I made a base for it out of 1/2" x 4" aluminum stock.
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Re: Clamps and accessories
Thank You James,
Just curious, do you happen to know what the thread size Kreg uses on that underside clamp screw they provide?
Wade
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 7:32 AM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? typo, 1/4" - 20 thread.
James Wade,
Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread.?
No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop.
James Hey James,
Thank you for sending this.? So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6¡± version clamp without having to modify it?? What thread sizes did you use?? Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I¡¯m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I¡¯m making money to save for Mac¡¯s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don¡¯t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don¡¯t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you¡¯re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you¡¯re considering a short crosscut fence and it¡¯s locked-down T-nut.
I¡¯ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can¡¯t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I¡¯ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Wide belt grit selection
Lloyd, My resaw setup must be better than yours as 120 is takes out saw marks in a pass or two??We can even glue directly off the bandsaw.
I was having bad chatter marks off the sander for a while, it was the belts. Don't use the 3M 340D belts. They are inexpensive and last a while, but they have a straight seam. You want all your belts to have that sine wave zig zag type seam as it greatly improves the finish quality. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
?
Wade,
?
What Bill posted is a special nut that is designed to be secured at couple of locations (designed for that nut) in the slider slot to mount the short xcut fence. One does not need that for jigs but it will work as such if one was on hand.
?
I think it is too short if you are thinking of using it with plinth block. Maybe it is not as bad with manual clamps but the clamp will try to lift up in front in use so ideally, you want the Tnut securing the plinth block to the slider in front. This however is not convenient as you want the clamp to be close to the xcut fence. Fence is tall so operating a lever becomes hard. So long story short, use a long Tnut and try yo secure it as forward as possible.
On Feb 17, 2022, at 9:21 AM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
?
Bill,
?
With your set up, can you lock the Kreg clamp to the slider bed, prior to clapping down your material. ?I was wondering if they make a Kipp lever that would match the threads that are machined in the Felder t-nuts. ?When you buy the t-nuts from Felder, do they include the two allen head set screws?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?
On Feb 17, 2022, at 5:45 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:
Hi, I have the Kreg automaxx with the Felder T-Nut and a square piece of hardwood as in David's schema. The issue James described is correct. When you apply pressure the wood is pulled toward the clamp handle/body. I always use the clamp behind the outrigger fence first. Doing so, the wood is correctly pulled toward the outrigger fence. When using parallel fences, I setup the clamps handle at a 45 degree to get the wood pulled mostly toward the parallel fences.  Bill
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Re: Clamps and accessories
typo, 1/4" - 20 thread.
James
Wade,
Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread.?
No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop.
James Hey James,
Thank you for sending this.? So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6¡± version clamp without having to modify it?? What thread sizes did you use?? Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I¡¯m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I¡¯m making money to save for Mac¡¯s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don¡¯t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don¡¯t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you¡¯re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you¡¯re considering a short crosscut fence and it¡¯s locked-down T-nut.
I¡¯ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can¡¯t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I¡¯ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Wade,
Yes, 6" automaxx can reach over the fence. It is 1/14" - 20 thread.?
No, I did not make the t-nut, I do not have the milling machine. It was made by a machine shop.
James
Hey James,
Thank you for sending this.? So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6¡± version clamp without having to modify it?? What thread sizes did you use?? Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade ? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I¡¯m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I¡¯m making money to save for Mac¡¯s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don¡¯t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don¡¯t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you¡¯re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you¡¯re considering a short crosscut fence and it¡¯s locked-down T-nut.
I¡¯ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can¡¯t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I¡¯ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Bill,
With your set up, can you lock the Kreg clamp to the slider bed, prior to clapping down your material. ?I was wondering if they make a Kipp lever that would match the threads that are machined in the Felder t-nuts. ?When you buy the t-nuts from Felder, do they include the two allen head set screws?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 17, 2022, at 5:45 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:
?Hi, I have the Kreg automaxx with the Felder T-Nut and a square piece of hardwood as in David's schema. The issue James described is correct. When you apply pressure the wood is pulled toward the clamp handle/body. I always use the clamp behind the outrigger fence first. Doing so, the wood is correctly pulled toward the outrigger fence. When using parallel fences, I setup the clamps handle at a 45 degree to get the wood pulled mostly toward the parallel fences. Bill
|
Re: Wide belt grit selection
Another question, does it make sense to go to a Zirconium belt for the 80 and 100??
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 7:47 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Thanks LIoyd for the info, so the belts you have are all cloth backed?
The sander comes with a few used 100 a 60 and 1 new 120.?
Are you able to sand commercial veneers that are glued to ply or MDF on your machine, i am assuming that can¡¯t be done but you mentioned ply below. I am aware that if it is to be tried/done that you want to first calibrate the substrate first with the contact head only.?
You certainly know more than me about this but have you seen this on wide belt chatter?? On Feb 16, 2022, at 11:54 PM, sl <lloydn@...> wrote:
? I have the same sander.? 120 is too fine to remove resaw blade marks- it'll take too many passes and prematurely wear out the belt. I use 80 for rough sizing and removing saw marks and tear out but 100 will work if you don't want to buy so many grits.? Platen is almost always up, out of the way. Even with 180 and the platen down,? the seam in the belt leaves a regular mark, a sort of soft 'chatter ' that I sand out with a belt sander (180 for most, 150 for oaks)? that has the sheet metal plate replaced with a cork pad+ graphite canvas.? This requires practice but is way faster and flatter than an orbital sander.
This chatter mark is most visible on horizontal surfaces with darker coloration and some sheen.
Start with 100, 120 and 150 and see how it goes.?
Integrated digital readout and positioning controller speeds things up.? The dealer installed an Accurate system.
Feeding parts at a slight angle helps to spread the wear on the belt out.? I only use the fast feed speed on soft woods or lightweight plywood/ mdf.
Mine is 22 years old and I've only had to replace one switch and trouble shoot a safety interlock switch that I knocked out of position.? The SCM folks were very helpful walking me thru the troubleshooting and I have only basic facility with a multimeter.?
Regards Lloyd Natof
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Re: Clamps and accessories
Hey James,
Thank you for sending this. ?So you can reach over the crosscut cut fence with the 6¡± version clamp without having to modify it? ?What thread sizes did you use? ?Did you machine the t-nuts or have a machine shop produce them? ?
Thx,
Wade
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 6:45 AM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I¡¯m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I¡¯m making money to save for Mac¡¯s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don¡¯t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don¡¯t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you¡¯re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you¡¯re considering a short crosscut fence and it¡¯s locked-down T-nut.
I¡¯ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can¡¯t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I¡¯ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Wade,
Yes, I have 2 different length custom?made t-nut, the short one's dimension is the same as the t-nut with the Felder clamp.
   
James
James,
Is your Kreg clamp built in a way, that it can be locked down to the table before applying the clamping pressure?
Thx,
Wade ? I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James Thank you David,
For me, I¡¯m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I¡¯m making money to save for Mac¡¯s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don¡¯t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don¡¯t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you¡¯re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you¡¯re considering a short crosscut fence and it¡¯s locked-down T-nut.
I¡¯ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can¡¯t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I¡¯ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Jason Holtz
imran