Re: Calibration of power drive angle
So I was finally able to get the power drive calibrated, first problem was that the programming code in the attached instructions (2505) was not the correct one for my machine. There are 3 codes depending on the installed software, the other 2 are?5850 and 9339, easy enough try each one until you get p99
The only other small thing are two of the angles, 11.2 and 33.7 and how to set the bevel protractor accurately. .2 is 12 min and .7 is 42 min the vernier scale on the protractor only has 5 min div so I just eyeballed it after 10 and the 40, as they say a hair more...?
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On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:55 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? My understanding is the hard stops are set within a certain distance from/near the limit switches if the hard stops are set to far the motor actually has enough power to pull the brackets off at the welds - or...something like this.? Thanks for the info on that Dave.?
Lucky, maybe I should have included the procedure, I am only familiar with this a little as I run a software validation team for control software which includes encoder motors, basically you show the software different points (sometimes specific points) on the encoder typically the more the better so it can resolve itself. The display is totally passive and is just showing what the motor sees
Attached is the procedure?
<K900_F900_ PowerDrive_E_V02_03-07.pdf> On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:16 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Mark, if you use the hard stops, then force the trunion to go beyond the limits, the system will disable. ?I did this a few months ago, forcing the trunion to minus 1 degree, and it hit the stop and refused to tilt in any direction from there. ? Once the system faults like that, you have to manually apply 24V power to the positioning motor to drive it off the hard stop. ?Once that¡¯s done and the machine power cycled, ?it¡¯s fine again. ?I was able to do this using a 18V battery from one of my cordless drills, but it was certainly a PITA. ?You might ask why I got in this situation to begin with, and it was a simple keying error when I was calibrating the 0¡ã stop. ?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Thanks guys, what about the other angles 11,2¡ã; 22,5¡ã; 33,7¡ã? I know about checking the 0 and 90. They Also told me not to adjust the hard stops which makes no sense to me, the encoder motors we use at work utilize hard stops, we don¡¯t like to rely on the software for that ? Thanks David,
Like you and Lucky described, I do the cut test to confirm calibration. I calibrate with precision 90 & 45 squares.
I am just curious what my wixey angle gauge does. If memory serves me right if I zero it on the table it shows 0 or 90 depending upon which side I use on the blade.
I do not like using digital angle gauge for calibration because, well it is digital; you do not know when it is going to flip plus it does have repeatability error.
Imran ? Imran,?
For the 90¡ã stop, I cross cut a 1x3 on edge with the blade fully up, flip the off-cut over, put the two pieces back together on the bench and check with a straight edge. ?Same method with a 1 x 3 at 45 and check for square.
David
I guess i will need to check my angle gauge now. I did not use it to calibrate 90 & 45 stops on the saw though.
Imran ? I¡¯m with Lucky on this one. ?I have not found that the digital angle indicators produce very accurate results when used the set the angle stops on the saw trunion.
On Jan 20, 2021, at 12:26 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi Mark:
When calibrating my Kappa, I tried the tilt box method and was surprised how inaccurate it was for me. Maybe the fact that the tilt box is not accurate enough, or maybe the fact that a saw blade body is not necessary ground flat, or a combo?
For me, making test cuts in timber and measuring the results yielded the best calibration. 90 degree cuts in two thickish pieces, butt together and check with a straight edge. 45 degree cuts and then check for square.?
I¡¯d be interested in whether the tilt box works for you. Cheers.? ? I have the procedure, is a digital tilt box accurate enough or am I better of using a vernier scale protractor like the Mitutoyo 187-201. Looks like the tilt boxes are accurate within .2deg.
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Joe, did you happen to take a picture of the machine with the modified handle control bracket? ?I am interested to see this modification. ?The clamp does get in the way at times. ?
¡°I modified it in a few ways. ?I added a bracket to shift the control handle so it would not hit the clamp riser on the right hand side of the work table. ?I added a DRO for height to make double rows of dowel repeatable for window and door sash¡±
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I have had a Hammer A3-31 for 4 years, a ton of Festool and a new Felder K700S arriving in a week or two. ?So looking forward to getting this saw in the shop.?
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Re: HP needed for heavy cutter?
Mike, ?I had a chance to take a look at your link and I have to say that is fascinating. I had no idea that That was a shout away from my house. The only thing I knew about was the guy that collected tanks. I did get to see part of that years ago. I can't remember his name and not even sure if he is still alive. Very cool what your group has done.
My simpleton thought would be the box May be 10ft w/ a router template and tree guys. I think it would progress pretty fast. The hardest part of this however resetting all that track. My back is hurting just thinking about that part. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 257 ?????????? Avery, CA. 95224 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 650-678-3137 LIC # 707507
Great stuff ! What a rich resource you guys are.
Here are some thoughts on your excellent replies.
First, Mark T's dwg is correct for the ties. They are 1.5" thick, ~ 16 inches long and 2-1/2" high.? The material is recycled, molded plastic.?
The specs on spacing of the grooves is 7-5/8" +.092, -0.? Or, better said, 7.667 +- .046 if my math is correct.?
Jonathan M: The length of the ties are nominal, so making one cut and flipping them means you handle them twice, and any error in length is translated into an error on spacing.
Hence my desire to make both cuts in one pass.
George W; 18,500 pieces, at 3 per foot means we are refurbishing 6,175' of track with wood ties. Our RR has about 1.8 miles of track, and the older track is on wooden ties, which we are replacing.
Scale for narrow gage is 2.5"/ ft, for standard gage is 1.5"/ ft, so both can run on the same track.
The precision required is to keep the engine wheels on the track, especially on curves, and with variability introduced during th making of the track panels.
You can visit our website at if you want to see the operation.
The CNC machine idea is great, maybe the best, but we are a volunteer organization with a low budget, so looking for reliable, safe, low cost solutions.
We do have folks with excellent metal working capabilities, so making a dedicated machine is not a challenge.
It would be like the Woodmaster that Imram suggested. By the way, the right sized Woodmaster has? 5 hp motor.
Interesting idea to buy one used and resell.
A router table with two routers is a good idea, much easier to make than the dedicated machine.
Mark T.: On a formica (slippery) table with a fence at right angles also good idea. I was thinking of the frame idea so one team could be loading a frame, another pushing it through, third disassembling.
Good choice on the router bits.
Brian: Rebate cutters are also a good idea, because the inside dimension of the cut must be precise, but the outside cut can be a little large, so 50mm or 2" would work
David B. We are vols, so no pay, it is boring, but fun to figure out.
Thanks again.? If this inspires more ideas, I'd love to hear them.
Mike Ward
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I didn't have anyone email me about the Guide, so it's going up on eBay tonight.
Take care,
Rod
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Re: 12" or 16" Jointer /Planer
The Hammer A3-41 has the single pole lifting; however, it does have spring assists on both tables, which are co-planar.?
I had a 12" J/P and sold it last summer, as I often wanted to joint surfaces wider than 14". I have a Hammer A3-41 coming next month (?). Covid caused an 8 month wait.?
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Re: HP needed for heavy cutter?
Mike, your idea of frames and several people would speed it up further.?? I just happen to have railroad ties that are 1/4 scale of 2-1/2 scale, and I mocked it up.? A sheet of melamine plywood, a couple routers screwed underneath, a stick of wood for a fixed fence, and three cycling frames to push a batch of pieces through.? One or two people load frame, one person pushes through and a third and maybe a fourth pulls and stacks from the offload side.? You could build this in a few hours probably, for free except the cost of two routers bits (surely you can have the routers in the shop or among members, and some 2x4 scraps and a sheet of plywood, maybe you buy a $30 melamine sheet for slipperiness)? ? If you have 3 or 4 people working concurrently, they could have a loaded frame ready as soon as you've pushed the last one through.? Your cycle time per frame could be perhaps 30 seconds.? 18,000 would take 2.5 hours at that rate. 
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°Â±ð±ô³¦´Ç³¾±ð¡.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Jan 29, 2021, at 4:55 PM, Steve Lyde via groups.io <stlyde@...> wrote:
New to the group
Steve Lyde
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Steve Lyde
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Jonathan has the attachment for his CF machine. I'm pretty sure that's much higher RPM than the FD250. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: HP needed for heavy cutter?
You might consider laying as many as will fit edge to edge and on a long table, butted to a stop on one end.? Clamp the stack horizontally.? Lay over and affix a jig to guide a routers with a surfacing bit and rout out the dadoes.? The jig would look like the ones made to surface large slabs, but simpler as the router does not need to cut across the entire surface, just two tracks.? The cut would be best done in two passes for each depth of cut: down one side and back up cutting the other side.? Depending on the router and bit size, a full dept cut might be possible.? With two such workstation and two workers cutting, one from each side on first station, a third or fourth person could unload the newly notched ties and load up with blanks on the second station.
It would not be the most fun job to work on, but I think it is a low tech and quick way to go about getting them all prepared for the rails.
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Jonathan,
I have never considered the fact that morticing attachment being attached to J/P runs at a diff RPM than FD250. My dual51 lists 60Hz RPM as 5640 and FD250 lists RPM as 3000.
I have never seen this diff brought up here. Morticing attachment has an advantage of higher RPM thus allowing more options in selecting cutters.
Imran?
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On Jan 29, 2021, at 4:37 PM, Jonathan Smith <jonathan.smith@...> wrote: ?Imran,
My mortiser is mounted in the planer arbor so runs whatever speed that is.? I have never run birds mouth so can't compare but the end mills cut to size and the finish is good.? 1/2" is my largest bit so shim for wider and clean up with a chisel.? If I ever get into a project that required a 3/4" exactly, I might buy a bit.? I think it would run fine.? The key is to not go deep in a single hole.? Peck to half depth or so across the width, then peck to full depth, then clean across.? I think you warned me against letting the helical cutter getting grabbed and sucked in.? I've been careful and so far, knock on wood, it has not happened, yet.
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Nope, no lathe at all¡ keeping my eyes out for a small CNC lathe if I ever come across one.
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Thanks Robert, but I'm all set in that department.? I have a Hardinge HLV-H.? I bet Brian has one too.
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Thanks Robert, but I'm all set in that department.? I have a Hardinge HLV-H.? I bet Brian has one too.
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Imran,
My mortiser is mounted in the planer arbor so runs whatever speed that is.? I have never run birds mouth so can't compare but the end mills cut to size and the finish is good.? 1/2" is my largest bit so shim for wider and clean up with a chisel.? If I ever get into a project that required a 3/4" exactly, I might buy a bit.? I think it would run fine.? The key is to not go deep in a single hole.? Peck to half depth or so across the width, then peck to full depth, then clean across.? I think you warned me against letting the helical cutter getting grabbed and sucked in.? I've been careful and so far, knock on wood, it has not happened, yet.
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Re: Dust hose lengths for KF700
Howard,
See this post?
These come in 10¡¯ length so yoh can just cut it to what you need. make sure you measure with blade at 45 deg.
As for shaper, there is no internal hose on my 2002 KF700. So length is what you need to connect to your DC.
Imran
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On Jan 29, 2021, at 4:03 PM, Howard Metz <hdmetz1960@...> wrote: ? I need to replace the saw and shaper dust hoses in my 19 year old KF 700.??All of the plastic has disintegrated so I can¡¯t get an accurate measure of length.
Anyone know the correct lengths and recommendation for hose?
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Thanks
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Howard
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earthlink.net
One of these days I'll figure out how to do this correctly.
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Regarding old iron as in a lathe?? I have a circa mid-1960's Cazeneuve Lathe 360 HBX French tool room lathe that is available.? Contact me off line at woodewe@...
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Dust hose lengths for KF700
I need to replace the saw and shaper dust hoses in my 19 year old KF 700.??All of the plastic has disintegrated so I can¡¯t get an accurate measure of length.
Anyone know the correct lengths and recommendation for hose?
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Thanks
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Howard
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Bill Belanger
Jason Holtz
imran
Jonathan Smith