Link doesn¡¯t work, and unless you are setting the compressor on the table top, anything sticking out to the sides will just tip the FAT table over. Forklifts have huge amounts of cast iron weight on the ass end, opposite the forks to counterbalance them.
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Anyone have a Felder FAT300 ? Can you use it as a forklift?
Eventually I will be getting a Quincy QT-5 60 gal compressor. Im going to need to move it around a couple of times until the CNC router arrives mid summer. I thought of this wild idea of using the FAT300 table as a forklift. I cannot fit nor maneuver an engine hoist and a pallet jack does so much.
FAT is capable of 660lbs according to the manual & website. The QT-5 is 460+/-lbs. I would raise it maybe a inch so it doesnt fully tip over and hopefully be able to roll it around. Maybe some extra strapping to go along the bottom so it stays straight?
I've drawn up an idea. Tell me if this will work please. Keeping most of the weight towards the pump area.
I dont like waiting for others for help and rather do it myself even if it's 3am on a sunday.
See here:
Open to many suggestions. oh, Those are 2x6's laying across the frame. They will be bolted with the 2x4's
Thanks all Ronnie
?
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Anyone have a Felder FAT300 ? Can you use it as a forklift?
Eventually I will be getting a Quincy QT-5 60 gal compressor. Im going to need to move it around a couple of times until the CNC router arrives mid summer. I thought of this wild idea of using the FAT300 table as a forklift. I cannot fit nor maneuver an engine hoist and a pallet jack does so much.
FAT is capable of 660lbs according to the manual & website. The QT-5 is 460+/-lbs. I would raise it maybe a inch so it doesnt fully tip over and hopefully be able to roll it around. Maybe some extra strapping to go along the bottom so it stays straight?
I've drawn up an idea. Tell me if this will work please. Keeping most of the weight towards the pump area.
I dont like waiting for others for help and rather do it myself even if it's 3am on a sunday.
See here:
Open to many suggestions. oh, Those are 2x6's laying across the frame. They will be bolted with the 2x4's
Thanks all Ronnie
?
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Re: Jig saw recommendation
Did not have much time to play with the Festool Carvex but I did cut rafter tail pattern for the porch same as what I had done earlier with Bosch for the main roof.
I do favor the Bosch style as I could use the top handle or the barrel; something Joe pointed out earlier. For me, they cut about the same. I like Carvex where it goes slow (A setting on vari speed wheel) in the beginning to get the cut started.
I am not sure about the strobe on Festool. I could see individual chips coming upwards, literally as they were being made. It actually made it difficult for me to see the cut line. Vacuum did not clear chips well enough to help me see the line either (I do need to confirm that CT bag is not full).
I wanted to try the different strobe options but was not sure how. The manual calls for pushing 2 buttons for a short time until unit beeps but it only listed one button. Did not have time to figure that out, maybe I misread.
I was using an aggressive blade for a fast cut as I finished the pattern with the router. I am hopeful with a fine cut blade (where seeing the line is more important), one of the strobe feature and better vacuum I would be able to see the cut line better.
Oops!!! Just occurred to me that I never pushed the dust shield in the front down for improved dust collection. Not sure how much difficult it would make to see the cut line. Assume it will get dirty in a hurry.
Bosch blower while not as strong as I expected, does seem to help see the line but I did notice the motor getting hot while holding the barrel. Was fine in winter but not sure how it would do in summer.
I thought the cordless feature on Carvex was important enough to return the Bosch. I also paid only $360 and got the 5.2ahr battery and charger for free (supposedly both older models).
I did not find it difficult to adjust the guide on Carvex. I held it up in front of me at an angle where I could see the light on each side of the blade and stopped tightening where the line became difficult to see. I did need to adjust my viewing angle as the gap narrowed.
Another factor to keep Carvex was that I did not fully trust my Bosch unit as it was refurbished. The light switch was also very difficult to operate.
Imran
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Re: Veneering/glue curing temps
Designing and building for 47 years
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Show quoted text
On Dec 20, 2017, at 9:40 PM, fred@... [felder-woodworking] < felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
?
Folks:
I do a fair bit of veneer work with PPR glue. I also keep our shop cool (60 degrees +/-) PPR needs to be at 70 degrees to cure. I use generic heating blankets (think of Target and Walmart electric blankets) with insulating blankets to keep the pieces in the vacuum press warm. The blankets are consumer grade and have an auto shutoff after 10 hours which is a bit of a pain plus they don't become really warm. Does anyone know of a heavier duty heating blanket solution out there?
Thanks,
Fred Rossi
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
thank you everyone? :)? great resources here....i did find? one cracked plastic piece...so i ordered a few from Felder yesterday.....thank you all for your help
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
I checked the outrigger table on my KF700sp, yes, the steel bar is 0.015"
below the sliding table :) I have to say David Best's explanation is right
on the money.
The cross bar in the middle of the outrigger table is level with sliding
table.
So the only problem is the homemade wooden support platform on the
outrigger table, adding 0.015" shim underneath would solve the problem :)
James
On Wed, Dec 20, 2017 at 9:59 PM, 'david@bestservices IMAP 2'
david@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@
yahoogroups.com> wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
OK, I just got home and checked the outrigger on my Kappa 400. The
plated steel bar that¡¯s adjacent to the sliding table is purposefully set
below the sliding table surface to ensure that the crosscut fence clamping
bolt coming up from below (the pivot point for the fence extrusion) sucks
the fence extrusion down firmly against the surface of the sliding table
and seats the pivot sleeve into it¡¯s receiver. I measured my outrigger
and got that same offset you have - 0,015¡±. So there¡¯s nothing wrong with
your outrigger height at the sliding table. Here¡¯s my reading:
If you wanted to support material in that area to the same height as the
sliding table surface, you can make, or Felder sells a bar that straddles
across the gap. It¡¯s Felder part #601-124 and is shown here - it can be
moved around in the gap between the miter degree bar and the steel bar that
rests on the sliding table P-channel.
* <> *
I saw this Felder accessory once at one of the shows, but I didn¡¯t examine
it in detail - presumably the top of it is coplanar to the surface of the
sliding table. I have seen similar shop-made units in the FogPix section
on Photobucket.
I would discourage you from screwing around with the plastic P-channel
saddles (shimming or whatever) since those are responsible for proper
registration of the outrigger table. If you do shim them, chances are 100
percent that when they are re-secured the position of the plastic saddles
will be off just enough that you¡¯ll have to re-square your crosscut fence.
If you shim them too high, the clamping bolt that secures the pivot point
will not seat properly and will throw off the crosscut fence alignment (the
fitting is a tapered stud into a tapered counterbore).
David Best
On Dec 20, 2017, at 11:18 AM, dawgyeats@... [felder-woodworking] <
felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
James it says i do not have permission to that file ...here are some links
to explain my problem a little better
laying a straight edge across the outrigger the edge of the straightedge
catches the slider
https://i.gyazo.com/6a90b8bade3da49a8ab908f405d5faed.jpg
[image: image] <https://i.gyazo.com/6a90b8bade3da49a8ab908f405d5faed.jpg>
https://i.gyazo.com/6a90b8bade3da49a8ab908f405d5faed.jpg
View on i.gyazo.com
<https://i.gyazo.com/6a90b8bade3da49a8ab908f405d5faed.jpg>
Preview by Yahoo
https://i.gyazo.com/d53d1b06dabb4c1b2559592fa86e6890.jpg
[image: image] <https://i.gyazo.com/d53d1b06dabb4c1b2559592fa86e6890.jpg>
https://i.gyazo.com/d53d1b06dabb4c1b2559592fa86e6890.jpg
View on i.gyazo.com
<https://i.gyazo.com/d53d1b06dabb4c1b2559592fa86e6890.jpg>
Preview by Yahoo
it appears to be .015 lower than the slider
https://i.gyazo.com/e3197b3c65c036e7c714b2bef45c76aa.jpg
[image: image] <https://i.gyazo.com/e3197b3c65c036e7c714b2bef45c76aa.jpg>
https://i.gyazo.com/e3197b3c65c036e7c714b2bef45c76aa.jpg
View on i.gyazo.com
<https://i.gyazo.com/e3197b3c65c036e7c714b2bef45c76aa.jpg>
Preview by Yahoo
https://i.gyazo.com/bd2da7d6edb7d6c1e76bfb90d6f0c06f.jpg
[image: image] <https://i.gyazo.com/bd2da7d6edb7d6c1e76bfb90d6f0c06f.jpg>
https://i.gyazo.com/bd2da7d6edb7d6c1e76bfb90d6f0c06f.jpg
View on i.gyazo.com
<https://i.gyazo.com/bd2da7d6edb7d6c1e76bfb90d6f0c06f.jpg>
Preview by Yahoo
|
Re: Veneering/glue curing temps
You might look into radiant heaters,,, heat the object.? mac,, ? martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330 cell 608-824-0023 fax
Designing and building for 46 years
From: "fred@... [felder-woodworking]"
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 9:40 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Veneering/glue curing temps
?
Folks:
I do a fair bit of veneer work with PPR glue. I also keep our shop cool (60 degrees +/-) PPR needs to be at 70 degrees to cure. I use generic heating blankets (think of Target and Walmart electric blankets) with insulating blankets to keep the pieces in the vacuum press warm. The blankets are consumer grade and have an auto shutoff after 10 hours which is a bit of a pain plus they don't become really warm. Does anyone know of a heavier duty heating blanket solution out there?
Thanks,
Fred Rossi www.StudioRossi.us
|
Veneering/glue curing temps
Folks:
I do a fair bit of veneer work with PPR glue. I also keep our shop cool (60 degrees +/-) PPR needs to be at 70 degrees to cure. I use generic heating blankets (think of Target and Walmart electric blankets) with insulating blankets to keep the pieces in the vacuum press warm. The blankets are consumer grade and have an auto shutoff after 10 hours which is a bit of a pain plus they don't become really warm. Does anyone know of a heavier duty heating blanket solution out there?
Thanks,
Fred Rossi www.StudioRossi.us
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
Hi David,? Thanks for confirming what I was suggesting :) Mac,,, Designing and building for 47 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
OK, I just got home and checked the outrigger on my Kappa 400. ? The plated steel bar that¡¯s adjacent to the sliding table is purposefully set below the sliding table surface to ensure that the crosscut fence clamping bolt coming up from below (the pivot point for the fence extrusion) sucks the fence extrusion down firmly against the surface of the sliding table and seats the pivot sleeve into it¡¯s receiver. ? I measured my outrigger and got that same offset you have - 0,015¡±. ? So there¡¯s nothing wrong with your outrigger height at the sliding table. ? Here¡¯s my reading:
?
<IMG_0068.jpeg>
If you wanted to support material in that area to the same height as the sliding table surface, you can make, or Felder sells a bar that straddles across the gap. ? It¡¯s Felder part #601-124 and is shown here - it can be moved around in the gap between the miter degree bar and the steel bar that rests on the sliding table P-channel.
?
I saw this Felder accessory once at one of the shows, but I didn¡¯t examine it in detail - presumably the top of it is coplanar to the surface of the sliding table. ? I have seen similar shop-made units in the FogPix section on Photobucket.
I would discourage you from screwing around with the plastic P-channel saddles (shimming or whatever) since those are responsible for proper registration of the outrigger table. ? If you do shim them, chances are 100 percent that when they are re-secured the position of the plastic saddles will be off just enough that you¡¯ll have to re-square your crosscut fence. If you shim them too high, the clamping bolt that secures the pivot point will not seat properly and will throw off the crosscut fence alignment (the fitting is a tapered stud into a tapered counterbore).
David Best
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
OK, I just got home and checked the outrigger on my Kappa 400. ? The plated steel bar that¡¯s adjacent to the sliding table is purposefully set below the sliding table surface to ensure that the crosscut fence clamping bolt coming up from below (the pivot point for the fence extrusion) sucks the fence extrusion down firmly against the surface of the sliding table and seats the pivot sleeve into it¡¯s receiver. ? I measured my outrigger and got that same offset you have - 0,015¡±. ? So there¡¯s nothing wrong with your outrigger height at the sliding table. ? Here¡¯s my reading:
?
If you wanted to support material in that area to the same height as the sliding table surface, you can make, or Felder sells a bar that straddles across the gap. ? It¡¯s Felder part #601-124 and is shown here - it can be moved around in the gap between the miter degree bar and the steel bar that rests on the sliding table P-channel.
?
I saw this Felder accessory once at one of the shows, but I didn¡¯t examine it in detail - presumably the top of it is coplanar to the surface of the sliding table. ? I have seen similar shop-made units in the FogPix section on Photobucket.
I would discourage you from screwing around with the plastic P-channel saddles (shimming or whatever) since those are responsible for proper registration of the outrigger table. ? If you do shim them, chances are 100 percent that when they are re-secured the position of the plastic saddles will be off just enough that you¡¯ll have to re-square your crosscut fence. If you shim them too high, the clamping bolt that secures the pivot point will not seat properly and will throw off the crosscut fence alignment (the fitting is a tapered stud into a tapered counterbore).
David Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
Hi George, What is important is the the outrigger bars that run parallel with the slider are level with the slider or co plane. mac,,, ? martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330 cell 608-824-0023 fax
Designing and building for 46 years
From: "dawgyeats@... [felder-woodworking]"
To: felder-woodworking@...
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 4:01 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
?
copy and pasted worked...thanks!!
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
I just checked, yes, you can add shim between them and the steel to raise the outrigger table a bit.
James
?
Then would anything stop you from adding .015¡± worth of shim between them and the steel? Be more problematic to need to go the other way, but I can¡¯t see that a shim would be much issue.
You¡¯d think they would be adjustable, but they are not. ? Been down that road.
David Best
If they are not missing or damaged, I would suspect a .015¡± shim between the plastic and the steel would suffice to raise the outrigger. One would assume they have to have some form of adjustment.
On an X-Roll sliding table like you have, the plastic P-channel blocks that register the outrigger table to the prism edge of the sliding table are?NOT?height adjustable.? Photo here - the block is circled in red:
Those blocks (there are two) register the height and angle of the outrigger table where it clamps to the edge of the sliding table. ? Looking at your photos, my suspicion is that one or both of the blocks are damaged or missing.
David Best
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
Then would anything stop you from adding .015¡± worth of shim between them and the steel? Be more problematic to need to go the other way, but I can¡¯t see that a shim would be much issue.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You¡¯d think they would be adjustable, but they are not. ? Been down that road.
David Best
If they are not missing or damaged, I would suspect a .015¡± shim between the plastic and the steel would suffice to raise the outrigger. One would assume they have to have some form of adjustment.
On an X-Roll sliding table like you have, the plastic P-channel blocks that register the outrigger table to the prism edge of the sliding table are?NOT?height adjustable. ?Photo here - the block is circled in red:
Those blocks (there are two) register the height and angle of the outrigger table where it clamps to the edge of the sliding table. ? Looking at your photos, my suspicion is that one or both of the blocks are damaged or missing.
David Best
|
Jinkies! That sounds pretty interesting.
Again, not getting one and being I'm a weekend warrior (sunday only) it wouldnt
work anyways for me.
Thanks a batch for that info.
Ronnie
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Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
I am not that sure that the steel on the edge of the outrigger is suppose to be the same height as slider it could be that your outrigger is set to high at the post and that is why the straight edge is hitting it.?? Designing and building for 47 years
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Show quoted text
On Dec 20, 2017, at 3:39 PM, dawgyeats@... [felder-woodworking] < felder-woodworking@...> wrote:
?
ok thanks? i'll check those blocks..they are both there? but i will check them
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
ok thanks? i'll check those blocks..they are both there? but i will check them
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
You¡¯d think they would be adjustable, but they are not. ? Been down that road.
David Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If they are not missing or damaged, I would suspect a .015¡± shim between the plastic and the steel would suffice to raise the outrigger. One would assume they have to have some form of adjustment.
On an X-Roll sliding table like you have, the plastic P-channel blocks that register the outrigger table to the prism edge of the sliding table are?NOT?height adjustable. ?Photo here - the block is circled in red:
Those blocks (there are two) register the height and angle of the outrigger table where it clamps to the edge of the sliding table. ? Looking at your photos, my suspicion is that one or both of the blocks are damaged or missing.
David Best
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
If they are not missing or damaged, I would suspect a .015¡± shim between the plastic and the steel would suffice to raise the outrigger. One would assume they have to have some form of adjustment.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On an X-Roll sliding table like you have, the plastic P-channel blocks that register the outrigger table to the prism edge of the sliding table are?NOT?height adjustable. ?Photo here - the block is circled in red:
Those blocks (there are two) register the height and angle of the outrigger table where it clamps to the edge of the sliding table. ? Looking at your photos, my suspicion is that one or both of the blocks are damaged or missing.
David Best
|
Re: Help with Cosscut wagon lower than slider
On an X-Roll sliding table like you have, the plastic P-channel blocks that register the outrigger table to the prism edge of the sliding table are NOT height adjustable. ?Photo here - the block is circled in red:
Those blocks (there are two) register the height and angle of the outrigger table where it clamps to the edge of the sliding table. ? Looking at your photos, my suspicion is that one or both of the blocks are damaged or missing.
David Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
|
A word of warning¡
I used to have a CompAir hydrovane which was run intermittently. Over a two-year period, I destroyed the compressor by making two key mistakes:
1. I didn¡¯t service the compressor. It was the first air compressor I had ever had in my shop and I stupidly just left it in the corner for two years and didn¡¯t touch it. All my bad.
2. But the word of warning is this: Hydrovanes, and rotary screw compressors, really do need to be run more than less and the reason is that they must get up to operating temperature on a regular basis. If your compressor needs are low (most woodworkers only need a little air) then the compressor turns on, fills the receiver, and turns off. While I¡¯m less up with the theory, in practice, water starts to develop or appear in the oil, and eventually destroys the seals and mechanical ¡°vanes¡± over time. If these machines are allowed to run longer, they get up to operating temperature and burn off any accumulated water.
I threw away my hydrovane, and several grand, but perhaps wasted my money again buying a rotary screw compressor. They are so quiet! Rotary screws also need to be run at operating temperature on a regular basis. I certainly no longer make the first mistake listed above. As to the second, I have an electronic valve in my air line which bleeds the receiver dry and forces the compressor to come on for 30 mins straight, once a week. This serves, in theory, to burn off any accumulated oil in the compressor.
I hope to have the rotary screw for longer than 2 years. EEK.
Agreed Brian, Kaeser compressors are very nice. I wanted to justify the price, but my local rep is a wanker, so I went with Pilot Air (a competitor). My screw is made in Italy, and is still expensive, but perhaps 30% cheaper than Kaeser.
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When I was with Arthur D Little we pioneered Scroll Technology.? Had a contract to develop a compressor? for the supercharger for the M1 Abrams and were working on Blood Pumps as it turns out? only peristaltic and scroll pumps can pump blood without damaging the cells. Scroll technology is a very effective? and clean compression tech. It's just two opposing matched? involute scrolls with one of them moving so as to create an ever reducing physical space?
On 12/19/2017 8:34 PM, Brian Lamb ?blamb11@...?[felder-woodworking] wrote: I¡¯m very familiar with rotary compressors, not sure about the ¡°scroll¡± units. I wouldn¡¯t buy any rotary screw other than Kaeser, and a 5hp unit would run somewhere north of $7k. They are super durable and work fantastic, but are meant to be used a lot. If you don¡¯t have an almost constant need for a large volume of air, you are better off with a piston compressor.
OK,
Just looking for a compressor for the garage.
Thinking of getting a Quincy QT-5 60 Gallon just
for regular use. Nothing special but more air than
a hobby comp.
As I'm looking around the site I come across a
Scroll Compressor. Supposedly quieter and oil-less.
Comes w/ a dryer too to keep your lines dry. OK.
Pricey of course.
Anyone have experience with a scroll compressor
and is it ok for regular use? You know, nail guns, clamping,
mechanic work, CNC.... hell since im at it, sandblasting!
Lets forget price for now. Are these acceptable for use
in a wood working enviroment?
Here's a 5hp Scroll compressor to 'compare' with:
Nope... not getting it, just curious.
|
imran
Fred Rossi
David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer