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First, your 600# kamado is of interest. Is that a Komodo Kamado? A Big Bad 32" is on my shortlist.?

I also have shorter than ideal ceilings, but i might consider breaking the law for 9'-10' ceilings. I have 7' and some change, which gives me about 1/2" of clearance for my 20" saw. For your machine, have you consider building a ramp to the pallet and then blocking the bandsaw up enough for a pallet jack to get under it? I have moved machines from pallets this way several times. Once you have it on the pallet jack, you can move it inside into place and lower it onto blocking. If you dont want it to be permanently on blocking, then you can do the reverse of slowly levering it and reducing the blocking. Alternatively, you can build your gantry outside to lift the saw off the pallet.?

Patrick

On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 9:48?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel=[email protected]> wrote:

There are many out there, but Harrington is a high quality reputable brand imo worth?the extra cost over competitors, and you may buy locally for better deals from rigging companies.

If attaching to lumber joints, I'd bore holes in both sides of a joist bay and run an iron pipe nipple through, securing with hose clamps, sleeves, or other collars to prevent sliding out of place under load. It's still your responsibility to determine the safe load you can put to the structure and/or what other reinforcements or added temporary jack columns you might need to use to reinforce to make for safe loading.

On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 8:27?AM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel=[email protected]> wrote:

Doug,?

The bandsaw decreases topside load as the CoG shifts closer to the center of the base, and increases weight on the bottom. If you can use a chainfall?from the joists to get it as close as you can to the balance point, you can manage the rest with much lighter duty devices like cam-lever straps or a couple of 2x4s serving as levers, or a couple of friends with ropes/pulleys safely out of harm's way. You may not want to lift from a direct overhead point as when it reaches the last 10 degrees or so? of vertical after the balance point, next the CoG is within the footprint of the base, the machine will shift behavior to want to fall into correct position, there may be not enough angle on the lifting line to resist over-tipping in a controlled and safe fashion. Your ceiling height should not be an issue if you can rig from the roof structure at the right angles. If your machine isn't already marked where the CoG is, I'd suggest a ceiling attachment point about a foot toward the top of the geometrical center of the bandsaw.

On Tue, Feb 18, 2025 at 7:42?AM Doug Speck via <speckde=[email protected]> wrote:

I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling.? The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope.? I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in.? From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments.? I’m now ?considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work.? While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck.? I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are.

Thanks in advance,

Doug

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Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...

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Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...