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Yakima or Thule Cargo or Rocket Box on Pop Top


glencgilbert
 

I am new 1993 Eurovan MV Weekender owner. I am taking my wife and kids
cross country this summer for 2 mos. and would like to add a cargo box
to the roof. Will this harm the pop top? Does anyone have
recommendations for particular cargo box sizes or types of mounts that
fit? I will only pop the top when the box is empty at night. The
Yakima I am looking at weighs 35 lbs. for 15 cubic feet of storage
for pillows, sleeping bags, clothes, etc. I saw one person added an
additional support bar for his poptop. Is that necessary? Thank you, Glen


 

In a message dated 5/16/08 11:43:52 AM, glen@... writes:


I am new 1993 Eurovan MV Weekender owner. I am taking my wife and kids
cross country this summer for 2 mos. and would like to add a cargo box
to the roof. Will this harm the pop top? Does anyone have
recommendations for particular cargo box sizes or types of mounts that
fit? I will only pop the top when the box is empty at night. The
Yakima? I am looking at weighs 35 lbs. for 15 cubic feet of storage
for pillows, sleeping bags, clothes, etc. I saw one person added an
additional support bar for his poptop. Is that necessary? Thank you, Glen
First, I've mounted all kinds of things (multiple bikes, pods, etc.) on my
'97EVC with Yakima Tracks system and it all works.

However there are several drawbacks:
1. Access is difficult without a ladder, which is something else to carry.
2. You can't pop the top loaded. (you already knew that)
3. Reduction in gas mileage, especially with $4 gal. gas. The drag can lower
gas mileage 2-3mpg.

I have now streamlined my EVC as much as possible, even removing the Yakima
bars.
I put everything inside the EVC.
If that crowds everyone too much, I would suggest a rear, hitch mounted
storage box.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC




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Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
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()


 

In a message dated 5/16/08 2:00:26 PM, glen@... writes:



Do we need any extra support for the poptop even when the cargo box is
empty? I'd like to keep it on the roof (empty) when we pop but am worried
about the extra 40-50 lbs. I saw someone put a extendable hood prop under
there's to add some security.
Probably, but it depends on how good your gas struts are.
I would suggest making yourself a set of supports.
I measured the distance from the 'L' shaped roof locking bolts to the top
channel surface directly below the 'L' bolts. This would be the surface right
next to where the pop-top canvas is attached.
I took simple, about 1/2 or 3/4 inch dia. metal electrical conduit and cut it
to that length.
I flattened one end in a vice and drilled a hole the diameter of the 'L'
bolts.
On the other end I put a correct sized rubber 'cane tip' available at any
hardware store.
After raising the pop-top, I fit the 'hole' end over the'L' bolt and gently
psuhing up, slide the 'cane tip' end forward until secure.
With one on each side it will hold the weight.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC




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()


 

Glen,

I had a 93 Weekender with Yakima bars for handling bicycles. With two bikes
up there at highway speeds, my MPG was cut to 17.

I now prefer the hitch-mounted carriers. There are platforms to carry cargo
boxes or bicycles. I opted to get a Hitch rack to carry bicycles on a 2001
Weekender and it has no affect of MPG.

Bob W.

In a message dated 5/16/2008 12:43:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
glen@... writes:

I am new 1993 Eurovan MV Weekender owner. I am taking my wife and kids
cross country this summer for 2 mos. and would like to add a cargo box
to the roof. Will this harm the pop top? Does anyone have
recommendations for particular cargo box sizes or types of mounts that
fit? I will only pop the top when the box is empty at night. The
Yakima I am looking at weighs 35 lbs. for 15 cubic feet of storage
for pillows, sleeping bags, clothes, etc. I saw one person added an
additional support bar for his poptop. Is that necessary? Thank you,




****Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
()


Glen Gilbert
 

Thanks Kent. We've got 4 bikes on a Yakima Swing Away on the trailer hitch
so the rear is not an option.



Do we need any extra support for the poptop even when the cargo box is
empty? I'd like to keep it on the roof (empty) when we pop but am worried
about the extra 40-50 lbs. I saw someone put a extendable hood prop under
there's to add some security.


jack_son_73
 

Hi Glen -

I mounted a pair of Thule rails on my '03 EVC, but
have mostly used it to haul long lumber, etc. that
won't fit inside. I used ~ 24 #10 rubber expanding
Well-Nuts- available at some ACE, Tru-Value, Lowes.
Keep tracks exactly parallel using the cross bars
when you lay them out, or you will have to readjust
the bar/s when you just want to unlock & slide. The
plastic indentation shoulders on top aren't parallel.
[Don't ask!] Alcohol & water remove Magic Marker
layout lines - parallel or not.

For interior storage, I use toy caribiner snap-links
attached to the interior roof cap anchors. A center
ring & bungee cords form a 'net', which stows light
items [pillows, sleeping bags, & blankets in stuff
bags, etc.] out of rear mirror view. I am still
looking for a small cargo net to fold, or extend to
front edge of upper bunk, to stash more.

Climbing up to access cargo box is a problem. When I
have to climb up to adjust my Ham Radio whips on the
cab luggage rail, or high above rear door, I climb
on a concrete lamp-pole pyramid at a shopping center
lot. I probably wouldn't get any more odd looks if
removing PJs & sleeping bags from cargo box, before
driving to the campsite. Campers need Wal-Mart.

Enjoy the Camper trip.

Jack_son

'03 EVC '01 Passat 2 Bladez e-scoots
==================================================
--In ev_update@..., kgkirkley@... wrote:


In a message dated 5/16/08 11:43:52 AM, glen@... writes:


I am new 1993 Eurovan MV Weekender owner. I am taking my
wife and kids cross country this summer for 2 mos. and
would like to add a cargo box to the roof. Will this harm
the pop top? Does anyone have recommendations for particular
cargo box sizes or types of mounts that fit? I will only
pop the top when the box is empty at night. The Yakima I
am looking at weighs 35 lbs. for 15 cubic feet of storage
for pillows, sleeping bags, clothes, etc. I saw one person
added an additional support bar for his poptop. Is that
necessary? Thank you, Glen
First, I've mounted all kinds of things (multiple bikes, pods,
etc.) on my
'97EVC with Yakima Tracks system and it all works.

However there are several drawbacks:
1. Access is difficult without a ladder, which is something
else to carry.
2. You can't pop the top loaded. (you already knew that)
3. Reduction in gas mileage, especially with $4 gal. gas. The
drag can lower gas mileage 2-3mpg.

I have now streamlined my EVC as much as possible, even
removing the Yakima bars.
I put everything inside the EVC.
If that crowds everyone too much, I would suggest a rear,
hitch mounted storage box.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC


David Richoux
 

Have you tried using a "Spider?" They are used on motorcycles a lot for holding awkward loads - might work in this application too.
is one, I have seen others that were a bit larger.

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On May 16, 2008, at 12:54 PM, jack_son_73 wrote:

Hi Glen -
snip
For interior storage, I use toy caribiner snap-links
attached to the interior roof cap anchors. A center
ring & bungee cords form a 'net', which stows light
items [pillows, sleeping bags, & blankets in stuff
bags, etc.] out of rear mirror view. I am still
looking for a small cargo net to fold, or extend to
front edge of upper bunk, to stash more.


jack_son_73
 

Dave -

Thanks for the tip. I hadn't seen Spiders made
for 'bikes. That's a very nice net design. I got
my idea of the center ring from a lashing system
I used years ago on a VW wagon cargo rack. It had
4 bungee cords, with centers attached to a ring
with cow hitches. Your Spider is a woven web, &
could also be used as a rear cargo net, to retain
small items when the rear door is open. That's a
problem when I pack a lot of things in stuffing
or compression bags - they tend to roll out like
foot-balls.

Thanks again,

Jack_son

'03 EVC
==================================================
--In ev_update@..., David Richoux <tubaman@...> wrote:

Have you tried using a "Spider?" They are used on motorcycles a
lot
for holding awkward loads - might work in this application too.
is one, I have seen
others that were a bit larger.

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On May 16, 2008, at 12:54 PM, jack_son_73 wrote:

Hi Glen -
snip
For interior storage, I use toy caribiner snap-links
attached to the interior roof cap anchors. A center
ring & bungee cords form a 'net', which stows light
items [pillows, sleeping bags, & blankets in stuff
bags, etc.] out of rear mirror view. I am still
looking for a small cargo net to fold, or extend to
front edge of upper bunk, to stash more.


jeff_westy
 

We have an '02 EVWK with Yakima bars mounted to Yakima "Wide Body"
bolt-on mounts with 1A Raingutter towers. I chose this just because
you can find the 1A towers and bars cheap on craigslist.

I have a Thule Mountaineer 17 cu ft cargo box and Yakima BasketCase
mounted up top. Cargo box for soft cargo and the basket for a tricycle
and bike trailer.

Works great. No issues with the top other than it's hard(er) to lift
and I have to put a prop rod under the front of the poptop when it's
up to make sure it doesn't fall down... and I carry a stool to get up
top to get things down and put them back up.

I'll post a link to some pictures tomorrow.

--- In ev_update@..., "glencgilbert" <glen@...> wrote:

I am new 1993 Eurovan MV Weekender owner. I am taking my wife and kids
cross country this summer for 2 mos. and would like to add a cargo box
to the roof. Will this harm the pop top? Does anyone have
recommendations for particular cargo box sizes or types of mounts that
fit? I will only pop the top when the box is empty at night. The
Yakima I am looking at weighs 35 lbs. for 15 cubic feet of storage
for pillows, sleeping bags, clothes, etc. I saw one person added an
additional support bar for his poptop. Is that necessary? Thank you,
Glen


David Richoux
 

Jack,

The spiders like that one have some give to them, but I don't think they would stretch across the whole rear deck. I am not picturing how you would use it back there. Still, worth exploring, and at $7 or so it is not too expensive an experiment.

Dave Richoux

On May 16, 2008, at 4:49 PM, jack_son_73 wrote:

Dave -

Thanks for the tip. I hadn't seen Spiders made
for 'bikes. That's a very nice net design. I got
my idea of the center ring from a lashing system
I used years ago on a VW wagon cargo rack. It had
4 bungee cords, with centers attached to a ring
with cow hitches. Your Spider is a woven web, &
could also be used as a rear cargo net, to retain
small items when the rear door is open. That's a
problem when I pack a lot of things in stuffing
or compression bags - they tend to roll out like
foot-balls.

Thanks again,

Jack_son

'03 EVC
==================================================
--In ev_update@..., David Richoux <tubaman@...> wrote:

Have you tried using a "Spider?" They are used on motorcycles a
lot
for holding awkward loads - might work in this application too.
is one, I have seen
others that were a bit larger.

Dave Richoux 2000 EVC

On May 16, 2008, at 12:54 PM, jack_son_73 wrote:

Hi Glen -
snip
For interior storage, I use toy caribiner snap-links
attached to the interior roof cap anchors. A center
ring & bungee cords form a 'net', which stows light
items [pillows, sleeping bags, & blankets in stuff
bags, etc.] out of rear mirror view. I am still
looking for a small cargo net to fold, or extend to
front edge of upper bunk, to stash more.


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adam mentzell
 

I have a roof rack system that I purchased from gowesty. Two rails attached
to the fiberglass via screws with rubber washers. Yakima racks connect to
the rails very easily and slide for adjustment. I carry surfboards and find
it a real bear to get them up there. I can't imagine bikes. I am adding a
hitch mount bike rack.
I use a pvc prop to hold the top up when I have boards on and need to pop
the top. I prop it vertically inside the van at the front of the top with
one end over the safety strap (seatbelt looking thing) bolt. On the lower
end I cut a groove in the pvc to accept the metal flange. It was a temporary
fix that I has become standard operating procedure. Even with the racks
empty I use the bar. The extra weight seems to overload the shocks.

If you go the direction of the rails attached to the fiberglass I suggest
calling the folks at gowesty for some advice on how to do it. It was a bit
nerve racking to drill into the top.

On Fri, May 16, 2008 at 2:05 PM, Glen Gilbert <glen@...> wrote:

Thanks Kent. We've got 4 bikes on a Yakima Swing Away on the trailer
hitch
so the rear is not an option.

Do we need any extra support for the poptop even when the cargo box is
empty? I'd like to keep it on the roof (empty) when we pop but am worried
about the extra 40-50 lbs. I saw someone put a extendable hood prop under
there's to add some security.





--
Adam Mentzell
Certified Advanced Rolfer
The Rolfing Center of State College
921 Pike Street, PO Box 1153
Lemont, PA 16851
(814) 571-8079
website: www.getrolfing.com


Glen Gilbert
 

Jeff, Do you know the length of your Yakima bars? I found pair on Craig's
that are 56 inches wide. The Rack Attack people said they thought I needed
58 inches but their gear is 10 times the price. Thanks, Glen


jeff_westy
 

Mine are cut to 56" and I have about 1-1/2" sticking out beyond the
tower brackets on each side.

--- In ev_update@..., "Glen Gilbert" <glen@...> wrote:

Jeff, Do you know the length of your Yakima bars? I found pair on
Craig's
that are 56 inches wide. The Rack Attack people said they thought I
needed
58 inches but their gear is 10 times the price. Thanks, Glen







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


adam mentzell
 

Hi Glen,
I just took a tape measure to mine and found them to be 55 inches. I bought
much wider ones and cut them down because they really stuck out. After
nearly ripping my drive through bank window off I cut them down. The
distance between outside towers that attach to the rail I installed are
about 52 inches. Keep in mind that is where I mounted them according to the
gowesty folks. I mounted them a few inches inside of the start of the bulge
on the outer part of the roofline. Make sense?

Anyway... Those should be plenty wide I think. The exception would be if you
wanted to use the extra length to mount racks to the outside of the towers.
Then the extra width comes in handy.

Call 8145718079 if you have other questions.

Adam

On Sun, May 18, 2008 at 4:41 AM, Glen Gilbert <glen@...> wrote:

Jeff, Do you know the length of your Yakima bars? I found pair on
Craig's
that are 56 inches wide. The Rack Attack people said they thought I needed
58 inches but their gear is 10 times the price. Thanks, Glen





--
Adam Mentzell
Certified Advanced Rolfer
The Rolfing Center of State College
921 Pike Street, PO Box 1153
Lemont, PA 16851
(814) 571-8079
website: www.getrolfing.com


 

I have 56" bars (3) that I attached using "roof rails" which are ~6" long brackets that I
attached with 2 bolts through the fiberglass sides of the pop-top. I sealed everything
with a bit of silicon and nothing leaks inside.

I attached a Yakima Rocketbox for a trip this spring back to Missoula (from Portland).
Loaded-up I got about 12 mpg through the Palouse. A drop of 9 mpg!

I would look for something to put on the back, but then what would I do with the Fiamma
bike rack?
--
Matthew

--- In ev_update@..., "adam mentzell" <adam@...> wrote:

Hi Glen,
I just took a tape measure to mine and found them to be 55 inches. I bought
much wider ones and cut them down because they really stuck out. After
nearly ripping my drive through bank window off I cut them down. The
distance between outside towers that attach to the rail I installed are
about 52 inches. Keep in mind that is where I mounted them according to the
gowesty folks. I mounted them a few inches inside of the start of the bulge
on the outer part of the roofline. Make sense?

Anyway... Those should be plenty wide I think. The exception would be if you
wanted to use the extra length to mount racks to the outside of the towers.
Then the extra width comes in handy.

Call 8145718079 if you have other questions.

Adam

On Sun, May 18, 2008 at 4:41 AM, Glen Gilbert <glen@...> wrote:

Jeff, Do you know the length of your Yakima bars? I found pair on
Craig's
that are 56 inches wide. The Rack Attack people said they thought I needed
58 inches but their gear is 10 times the price. Thanks, Glen







--
Adam Mentzell
Certified Advanced Rolfer
The Rolfing Center of State College
921 Pike Street, PO Box 1153
Lemont, PA 16851
(814) 571-8079
website: www.getrolfing.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Stuart MacMillan
 

You could get one of these:



Stuart

_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of Matthew:



I have 56" bars (3) that I attached using "roof rails" which are ~6" long
brackets that I
attached with 2 bolts through the fiberglass sides of the pop-top. I sealed
everything
with a bit of silicon and nothing leaks inside.

I attached a Yakima Rocketbox for a trip this spring back to Missoula (from
Portland).
Loaded-up I got about 12 mpg through the Palouse. A drop of 9 mpg!

I would look for something to put on the back, but then what would I do with
the Fiamma
bike rack?
--
Matthew


Boone
 

I roll with the Stowaway 2 cargo + bike rack set up that goes in the
rear hitch. I can get our four bikes on it (two adults, two kids),
a couple storage boxes, a cooler, some firewood... and it swings
away for back door access... and I can use it without the bike rack
too.

Kinda spendy, but it's working out really well for me.


I did have to figure out how best to put the bikes on so I could
swing it away, and the extended bike rack post is needed to get much
under the bikes.

I really don't keep track of gas mileage... so can't tell you if
there is a diff with it on our off... and of course sometimes I have
a canoe on top as well. LOADED BABY!

BD
'01 MV WK





--- In ev_update@..., "Stuart MacMillan" <macgroup@...>
wrote:

You could get one of these:



Stuart

_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...]
On Behalf
Of Matthew:



I have 56" bars (3) that I attached using "roof rails" which are
~6" long
brackets that I
attached with 2 bolts through the fiberglass sides of the pop-top.
I sealed
everything
with a bit of silicon and nothing leaks inside.

I attached a Yakima Rocketbox for a trip this spring back to
Missoula (from
Portland).
Loaded-up I got about 12 mpg through the Palouse. A drop of 9 mpg!

I would look for something to put on the back, but then what would
I do with
the Fiamma
bike rack?
--
Matthew






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Glen Gilbert
 

Boone, The combined bike and cargo rack behind rather than on top of the
Eurovan looks like a great alternative. I'll bet it does not effect gas
mileage nearly as much as the roof top cargo box and I don't have to worry
about extra weight when p[popping the top. The price is only $399 + $59 for
shipping which is favorable compared to Yakima's swing away 4 bike rack for
$450 (REI has sales occasionally for $350). I wish I had seen this before I
bought a bike rack. What do you do with the cargo basket? Do you attach
cargo bags rather than a cargo box on it? Doe the bike rack post get in the
way? Thank you, Glen



Glen Gilbert

tel: 503 282-7758

glen@...


Boone
 

The bike rack post comes up right in the middle of the cargo basket -
so you have to pack around it. I generally put a "storage box" (a
standard thing like you'd use to storage something on a self in your
garage)on one side (under the bike tires) and my big cooler on the
other side (under the other set of tires) and pack other things in
between.

I got their taller bike post, to give me more room under the bikes,
and their "bungee net" accessory which holds everything down nice
and tight. No complaints on how it works. But, like I said, you
have to watch how load your bikes so you can swing it out of the way.

Now, Stowaway was talking about changing the design on this a bit to
have the bike post not come up right in the middle of the cargo
basket (they asked me to field test a new bike post - but then said
it would not fit on my basket - so I ended up not testing it out for
them).

BD
'01 MV WK



--- In ev_update@..., "Glen Gilbert" <glen@...> wrote:

Boone, The combined bike and cargo rack behind rather than on top
of the
Eurovan looks like a great alternative. I'll bet it does not
effect gas
mileage nearly as much as the roof top cargo box and I don't have
to worry
about extra weight when p[popping the top. The price is only $399
+ $59 for
shipping which is favorable compared to Yakima's swing away 4 bike
rack for
$450 (REI has sales occasionally for $350). I wish I had seen this
before I
bought a bike rack. What do you do with the cargo basket? Do you
attach
cargo bags rather than a cargo box on it? Doe the bike rack post
get in the
way? Thank you, Glen



Glen Gilbert

tel: 503 282-7758

glen@...





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Boone
 

Oh, and I'm not sure I was clear in saying you can remove the bike
post all together and just use the cargo basket. Their bungee net
fits great and I can pile A BUNCH of cargo on there.

BD
'01 MV WK

--- In ev_update@..., "Boone" <bdayley@...> wrote:

The bike rack post comes up right in the middle of the cargo
basket -
so you have to pack around it. I generally put a "storage box"
(a
standard thing like you'd use to storage something on a self in
your
garage)on one side (under the bike tires) and my big cooler on the
other side (under the other set of tires) and pack other things in
between.

I got their taller bike post, to give me more room under the
bikes,
and their "bungee net" accessory which holds everything down nice
and tight. No complaints on how it works. But, like I said, you
have to watch how load your bikes so you can swing it out of the
way.

Now, Stowaway was talking about changing the design on this a bit
to
have the bike post not come up right in the middle of the cargo
basket (they asked me to field test a new bike post - but then
said
it would not fit on my basket - so I ended up not testing it out
for
them).

BD
'01 MV WK



--- In ev_update@..., "Glen Gilbert" <glen@> wrote:

Boone, The combined bike and cargo rack behind rather than on
top
of the
Eurovan looks like a great alternative. I'll bet it does not
effect gas
mileage nearly as much as the roof top cargo box and I don't
have
to worry
about extra weight when p[popping the top. The price is only
$399
+ $59 for
shipping which is favorable compared to Yakima's swing away 4
bike
rack for
$450 (REI has sales occasionally for $350). I wish I had seen
this
before I
bought a bike rack. What do you do with the cargo basket? Do you
attach
cargo bags rather than a cargo box on it? Doe the bike rack post
get in the
way? Thank you, Glen



Glen Gilbert

tel: 503 282-7758

glen@