开云体育

Eckhard,
My gage has read a bit lower (1-2 notches) ever since I had the gages
repaired. I'm not sure why it is but I've learned to recalibrate.
Ron

For some strange reason my gauge cluster worked today. I was surprised to
see how low the temperature gauge registered. Where should it be? In my
Jetta it is right in the middle when the temperature is correct. In the EV
it never went past the 1/4 mark. (Well, maybe the gas gauge worked and the
temp gauge did not?) Is that normal? Could it be that I have the wrong
thermostat?
I have been thinking about installing an after market thermometer but I
have no idea how to hook it into the cooling system without causing a leak.
Has anyone installed an after market temp gauge?
Eckhard

Eckhard,

My guess is the temp gauge was not working as it should. The factory
manual indicates it should start to open at 189 F (176 for the VR6
engine) and be full open by 216 F (221 for the VR6 engine) for the 2.4L
diesel and 2.5L 5cyl engines. However, there is always the possibility
of having a different thermostat.

You could possibly "calibrate" your gauge by checking when/how many of
the electric fans are coming on. The factory manual indicates there is
a thermal switch located on the radiator, about halfway up on the side
opposite of the side with the upper radiator hose. This 2 stage swith
controls when the fan(s) come on.
Stage 1: ON (183 - 192 F)
OFF (169 - 181 F)
Stage 2: ON (194 - 203 F)
OFF (180 - 192 F)
The manual is not clear on this point, but as near as I can tell, stage
1 means only one fan is running. Stage 2 means both are running (Does
anyone know for sure? - I have to check the next time my fan(s) kick
in). The nice thing about this, its operation is independant of the
thermostat.

I also found that the EV has a "Thermostat control for shutters". Its
mounted between the fans. When the coolant temperature drops below 77
F, it closes the shutters. The shutters are the plastic circle devices
behind the electric fans. When you're above 77 F, the sensor moves an
arm that opens the shutters so when the fans kick in, they can pass air
all the way through. This feature is only on the 2.4L diesel and 2.5L
- 5 cyl engines. It is not on the 2.8L VR6 engine.

This is my contribution to the collective EV body of knowledge tonight.
Hope its helped someone.

Jerry

eckhard rolz <erol-@...> wrote:
original article:

For some strange reason my gauge cluster worked today. I was

surprised to

see how low the temperature gauge registered. Where should it be? In

my

Jetta it is right in the middle when the temperature is correct. In

the EV

it never went past the 1/4 mark. (Well, maybe the gas gauge worked

and the

temp gauge did not?) Is that normal? Could it be that I have the

wrong

thermostat?
I have been thinking about installing an after market thermometer

but I

have no idea how to hook it into the cooling system without causing a

leak.

Has anyone installed an after market temp gauge?
Eckhard

Based on a review of the wiring diagram that I have for my van, and
verification through testing on my
I have found that both fans should always run at the same speed at the same
time.

There are three speeds that the fans can run operate at.

Low speed is probably called stage one is probably controlled by the
radiator thermal switch.
Medium speed is probably called stage two is probably controlled by the
radiator thermal switch.

Both stage one and two have series resistors in line with the fans to reduce
the fan speed.

The high speed I have been told by a VW tech is controlled form somewhere
else and should under
normal situations almost never be achieved.

I have heard the high speed when I had bad series resistors and when I have
tested relays etc. I believe that if you
pay even minimal attention to the fans and their operation you will have not
doubt as to when your fans run at high speed.
I've often been concerned about the fans running at high speed and sucking
small children and pets up against the grill :-)

I'll suggest out that it is a good idea to pay attention to the fans making
sure that they both operate properly at the low speed
when the engine is not running but the key is on and the HVAC controls are
in a position that would normally cause the AC to run.

This particular test (suggested by someone else on the list) will verify
that both fuses, series resistors and the contacts on the low speed relay
are functional and operating properly.

Testing the medium and high speed relays will require actual work.

I'll point out that I've learned much about the fans through troubleshooting
problems with cracked fuses, several bad series resistors and a bad medium
speed relay.


I've put together some notes and a trouble shooting strategy that should be
available in the archive. If you can't find it let me know and I'll send it
to anyone directly or resubmit it for archival purposes.

I'll ramble on here for one more second, I've heard of several people
experiencing a very expensive to repair fire type problem with the AC
compressor. I'm not certain whether a lack of fan electrical system
maintenance could have contributed to the problem. I'm sure that keeping an
ear on the fans and verifying that they run when they should (AC on, DEFROST
on, Hot days etc) is nothing but a good thing.

Jack,

Thanks for the tech input. Its great to have the knoweldge base
streched a bit. Can you let me know where in the archive I can get at
your notes (or, can you email them to me - sanae@...)

Thanks
Jerry

jack lowry <jack_lowr-@...> wrote:
original article:

Based on a review of the wiring diagram that I have for my van, and
verification through testing on my
I have found that both fans should always run at the same speed at

the same

time.

There are three speeds that the fans can run operate at.

Low speed is probably called stage one is probably controlled by the
radiator thermal switch.
Medium speed is probably called stage two is probably controlled by

the

radiator thermal switch.

Both stage one and two have series resistors in line with the fans to

reduce

the fan speed.

The high speed I have been told by a VW tech is controlled form

somewhere

else and should under
normal situations almost never be achieved.

I have heard the high speed when I had bad series resistors and when

I have

tested relays etc. I believe that if you
pay even minimal attention to the fans and their operation you will

have not

doubt as to when your fans run at high speed.
I've often been concerned about the fans running at high speed and

sucking

small children and pets up against the grill :-)

I'll suggest out that it is a good idea to pay attention to the fans

making

sure that they both operate properly at the low speed
when the engine is not running but the key is on and the HVAC

controls are

in a position that would normally cause the AC to run.

This particular test (suggested by someone else on the list) will

verify

that both fuses, series resistors and the contacts on the low speed

relay

are functional and operating properly.

Testing the medium and high speed relays will require actual work.

I'll point out that I've learned much about the fans through

troubleshooting

problems with cracked fuses, several bad series resistors and a bad

medium

speed relay.


I've put together some notes and a trouble shooting strategy that

should be

available in the archive. If you can't find it let me know and I'll

send it

to anyone directly or resubmit it for archival purposes.

I'll ramble on here for one more second, I've heard of several people
experiencing a very expensive to repair fire type problem with the AC
compressor. I'm not certain whether a lack of fan electrical system
maintenance could have contributed to the problem. I'm sure that

keeping an

ear on the fans and verifying that they run when they should (AC on,

DEFROST

on, Hot days etc) is nothing but a good thing.

-----Original Message-----
From: sanae@... [SMTP:sanae@...]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 9:46 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Temperature Gauge

Eckhard,

My guess is the temp gauge was not working as it should. The

factory

manual indicates it should start to open at 189 F (176 for the VR6
engine) and be full open by 216 F (221 for the VR6 engine) for the

2.4L

diesel and 2.5L 5cyl engines. However, there is always the

possibility

of having a different thermostat.

You could possibly "calibrate" your gauge by checking when/how many

of

the electric fans are coming on. The factory manual indicates

there is

a thermal switch located on the radiator, about halfway up on the

side

opposite of the side with the upper radiator hose. This 2 stage

swith

controls when the fan(s) come on.
Stage 1: ON (183 - 192 F)
OFF (169 - 181 F)
Stage 2: ON (194 - 203 F)
OFF (180 - 192 F)
The manual is not clear on this point, but as near as I can tell,

stage

1 means only one fan is running. Stage 2 means both are running

(Does

anyone know for sure? - I have to check the next time my fan(s) kick
in). The nice thing about this, its operation is independant of the
thermostat.

I also found that the EV has a "Thermostat control for shutters".

Its

mounted between the fans. When the coolant temperature drops below

77

F, it closes the shutters. The shutters are the plastic circle

devices

behind the electric fans. When you're above 77 F, the sensor moves

an

arm that opens the shutters so when the fans kick in, they can pass

air

all the way through. This feature is only on the 2.4L diesel and

2.5L

- 5 cyl engines. It is not on the 2.8L VR6 engine.

This is my contribution to the collective EV body of knowledge

tonight.

Hope its helped someone.

Jerry

eckhard rolz <erol-@...> wrote:
original article:

For some strange reason my gauge cluster worked today. I was

surprised to

see how low the temperature gauge registered. Where should it

be? In

my

Jetta it is right in the middle when the temperature is correct.

In

the EV

it never went past the 1/4 mark. (Well, maybe the gas gauge worked

and the

temp gauge did not?) Is that normal? Could it be that I have the

wrong

thermostat?
I have been thinking about installing an after market

thermometer

but I

have no idea how to hook it into the cooling system without

causing a

leak.

Has anyone installed an after market temp gauge?
Eckhard