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on th road to reno woes ... help
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Hi all, writing from the side of the road on my mobile.
It appears that my coolant reservoir has a leak around the seam. I'm leaking fluid and have little to no pressure in the cooling system... from what I can tell. It seems that I can barely drive when the engine is hot.... is this limp mode? I'm. Cooling right now before a hill. If this is limp mode or something like it... would you try to cruise slowly/cooly to get to reno? Would a pressureless cooling system cause this type of issue... or could it be something else as well? If anyone know anyone/shops in around reno that may have a globe type resv for a 93 ev, please email me. Duckdive@.... Or any shops that can help. |
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On 8/28/2011 12:51 PM, Duckdive wrote:
Hi all, writing from the side of the road on my mobile. It appearsWhen I've had leaks, one way to limp along is to remove the radiator cap. This leaves the system without pressure, so the leak slowed to a trickle. I could drive, add water, drive some more etc. until I could get to a place to fix it. -- Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring 814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen |
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I think I successfully used a 3500psi rated plastic epoxy weld to seal the leak. But ev still limpimg. I thought disconnecting the battery would reset. Still slow off the line and not much in the way of shifting.
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Anyone suggest the reset? Not in front of pc to review files. --- In ev_update@..., Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
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I was in Tahoe a few weeks ago with our EV and the check engine light came on. I was tempted to take it to the dealership there, but I knew it had to be the exhaust system because the engine was running perfectly.
I have a very strong opinion about overheating. Spend the $$ and tow it if you love your EV! We ruined a beautiful pearl white 1998 Audi 90CS Quattro once by trying to limp along. The engine was permanently damaged and a few months later the valves broke and the car was done. We should have spent the $700-$800 to fix it and that car would have lasted another 10 years. Don't do it. On Aug 28, 2011, at 10:51 AM, Duckdive wrote: Hi all, writing from the side of the road on my mobile. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Vickie
Hi,
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Would you like me to do a search in the files for you, then send it to you.... If so just tell me what to search for and I'll give it a go... Vickie On Aug 28, 2011, at 2:28 PM, "Duckdive" <duckdive@...> wrote:
I think I successfully used a 3500psi rated plastic epoxy weld to seal the leak. But ev still limpimg. I thought disconnecting the battery would reset. Still slow off the line and not much in the way of shifting. |
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How long has the check engine light been illuminated and what are the
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codes? Bob W In a message dated 8/28/2011 3:28:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
duckdive@... writes: I think I successfully used a 3500psi rated plastic epoxy weld to seal the leak. But ev still limpimg. I thought disconnecting the battery would reset. Still slow off the line and not much in the way of shifting. Anyone suggest the reset? Not in front of pc to review files. --- In _ev_update@... (mailto:ev_update@...) , Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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OK. I made it to Reno at about 45mph top speed with many stops to refill coolant reservoir and let it cool down. 395 doesn't have a lot of options on a Sunday.
Anyway, I'm now at a Starbucks with wifi and a laptop. Synopsis: - Coolant light came on last night in the middle of 395 - Filled the coolant several times and noticed a drip/leak from the back of the globe - Ironically, I stopped to help a guy and that is when I first had an issue shifting. This was after a 2 hour nap from about 5-7am. There are several summits that the EV was working to get over. - I continued to refill until I made it to an auto parts store. I tried the epoxy cement rated for heat and high psi. Seemed to help a bit, but didn't solve the leak completely. And the EV is still limping (if that is the right term). - When starting from a stop, the EV starts in 3rd... very slow. It doen't shift. Stays in 3rd. - I tried the auto trans reset... key on, key off, key on, pedal to floor for 10 seconds or more. When I started after, it did start in 1st... then begrudgingly shifted to 2nd and then 3rd. Then is staying there. Unfortunately, I'm supposed to be at Burning Man. And you know what service will mean in terms of a timeline. Help. Any advice is appreciated. I'm going to comb through the posts. |
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Disconnect and short the two battery cables together.
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Bob W In a message dated 8/28/2011 7:13:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
duckdive@... writes: So it seems that I'm stuck in Reno with now way to clear the Limp mode from the ECM/ECU. Nor can I get the codes. I cannot find anone with an OBD for a 93 VW. Only OBD 2s. Is there anyway to clear the ECM manually? I tried by unplugging the battery again for another 1 minutes. |
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I tried that, but it doesn't seen to do anything. I followed a procedure to reset the ECM -
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It seemed like ti helped at first. But, I may have just been a little excited. I may have to go to a dealer tomorrow. I've got a few mechanics names too. I'll continue to monitor these post and duckdive@... Thanks for the suggestions. --- In ev_update@..., Sea2river@... wrote:
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Did you disconnect both battery cables (pos and neg) and then hold them together?This is the manual reset method. Just making sure that you are not just removing one cable as this will not reset it. You must disconnect both and hold them together for a minute to discharge the ECM. There should be a shop there with VAGCOM scan tool with a 2 way adaptor for reading obd1 codes?
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--- On Sun, 8/28/11, Duckdive <duckdive@...> wrote:
From: Duckdive <duckdive@...> Subject: [ev_update] Re: on th road to reno woes ... help To: ev_update@... Date: Sunday, August 28, 2011, 11:13 PM So it seems that I'm stuck in Reno with now way to clear the Limp mode from the ECM/ECU.? Nor can I get the codes.? I cannot find anone with an OBD for a 93 VW.? Only OBD 2s. Is there anyway to clear the ECM manually?? I tried by unplugging the battery again for another 1 minutes. ------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@... Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Jim White
The "limp mode" you describe (always in 3rd gear) is an issue with the TCM.
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I'm no expert but I doubt the ECM would cause that to happen. The TCM will signal a fault (shift indicators all black) from overtemp - not sure about going into limp mode though. The TCM reset procedure (as describe in this message ) is: 1. Turn on the ignition, without starting the engine. 2. Turn the ignition back to the off position. 3. Turn ignition on again without starting the engine and depress the accelerator all the way to the floor, holding the pedal there for a minimum of ten seconds. 4. Release the accelerator pedal and then start the engine in the regular manner. 5. Drive the vehicle making sure that the transmission shifts through all four gears. Good luck! Jim On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 6:59 PM, Bill Waelder <bwaelder@...> wrote:
Did you disconnect both battery cables (pos and neg) and then hold them |
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If there was a problem with the TCM, would I be able to manually shift into 1st, 2nd or 3rd?
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I'm not able to, and I'm afraid that this is an indication of a more serious transmission issue. When I try to shift into 1st, 2nd or3rd manually, it just stays in 3rd. FYI - the transmission was replaced by Dinto Brothers in the SF area at 160k miles. There are 194k miles now. This was done in 2003 by a previous owner. If the problem is the TCM, would anyone have a line on a quick replacement? I'm talking getting one here today or overnight. John --- In ev_update@..., Jim White <jim@...> wrote:
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Kind of basic but did you check the AT fluid level?
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Does the AT fluid look good or is it burnt? --- In ev_update@..., "Duckdive" <duckdive@...> wrote:
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you might try j's vw in reno. i've had my 93 weekender worked on there before. not sure they will have your parts, probably not, but they can overnight them. it will be a bit cheaper than the local dealership lithia and maybe faster although they get a lot of broke down vans during burning man.
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here is the website: --- In ev_update@..., "Duckdive" <duckdive@...> wrote:
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John,
I just happened to be on the phone with a gentleman named Mark Abbott when I read your email. I found him on the Samba parting out a couple 93's and picked up a few parts for my 95. He said he has one TCM left - number ends in a B if that helps. Price is $150 with $10 for shipping. His email is markabbott5150@.... I only know Mark from my recent purchase. So do your due diligence. Cheers, Matt. On Aug 29, 2011, at 1:21 PM, "RobertD" <rob@...> wrote: you might try j's vw in reno. i've had my 93 weekender worked on there before. not sure they will have your parts, probably not, but they can overnight them. it will be a bit cheaper than the local dealership lithia and maybe faster although they get a lot of broke down vans during burning man. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Update:
It is Tuesday @ 9:45am, and I'm in the hotel near the auto shop. Steve @ Europarts-sd.com overnighted the Trans Circuit Foil/Plate (ribbon), gasket, and a coolant resvr. Received them at about 8:15am. I walked them over to the shop, and the EV was already on the rack as they had already started to start the ATF investigation and prep for ribbon change. I had also advised them to be careful with the harness (read about it). My first question was "How does the fluid look? Any evidence of transmission problems? Metal shavings?" The tech said "No, looked ok." I should have asked about the condition of the fluid, but I didn't. I think was I was just happy with that first answer. So, I'm waiting about 2 hours (10:30 or 11am), and then I will head back over. I'm hoping the 00258, 00260 and 00262 codes go away. |
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Update 11:30am:
So the ribbon only resolved one error code. In the midst of taking down the pan and ATF change, the tech discovered that the connector/wires for the harness has fatigued. You can see the wear. I called the local VW and they want $1255 for the complete harness. I called JW and they may have a van that they could pull one from assuming I could get them a replacement. I've left a message for Mark (ad on Samba for parts) to see if he has one. I'm at the point where I think I should get a soldering iron an go to it myself. If there is enough wire for me to get a connection point, I could reconnect and resolve. Thought? |
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John,
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Good news and bad news. Can you describe the fatigue further? Is it corrosion? Did the wire pull out of the connector? This is external to the transmission, right? Most of these connectors are assembled using crimpers, and the wires are crimped onto pins that then are inserted into the connector. There are less desired repair methods, yep, that you can make with a soldering iron, but I would caution that these kinds of repairs may not hold up. BUT, seems like you may have no choice (depending on your search for repair parts), so go for it. Maybe you can back the pins out of the connector and re-crimp it. Do you have a wiring diagram? If you are not an electrician or electronic technician, perhaps you should get someone else to help you out. This is because you will need to test all the wiring connections to be sure that any repairs you do have fixed the problem. Let us know if you have a wiring diagram. If not, maybe someone can help. HTH, Mike --- In ev_update@..., "Duckdive" <duckdive@...> wrote:
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--- In ev_update@..., "Duckdive" <duckdive@...> wrote:
The 12 pin solenoid connector pinout is shown in wiring diagram X219 Vol 2 of the Bentley manual. N88 pin 3 BL/W N89 pin 4 GN N90 pin 5 R N91 pin 6 Y N92 pin 7 GN/W N93 pin 2 BLK/WH N94 pin 10 BL If the wires are sticky ,perhaps oily? I would spray them with brake cleaner. Inspect very gently, and only attempt a repair if the problem is obvious, because the problem could be elsewhere. You could measure the resistance of the solenoids from the Tcm connector but this is harder to do. Good luck, David. |
Lee Hart
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